Orkney by ferry: the Italian Chapel and Neolithic Orkney

Route description

Two car ferries serve Orkney from the north coast of Scotland. From Gills Bay, a few kilometres west of John o’ Groats, the crossing to St Margaret’s Hope on South Ronaldsay takes about an hour. From Scrabster near Thurso a larger ferry sails to Stromness in about 90 minutes, passing the Old Man of Hoy. Book vehicle space in summer, and consider arriving on one route and leaving on the other.

From St Margaret’s Hope the A961 runs north over the Churchill Barriers, concrete causeways built during the Second World War to seal the eastern entrances to Scapa Flow. The wrecks of old blockships still show beside them. On Lamb Holm stop at the Italian Chapel, made from two Nissen huts by Italian prisoners who worked on the barriers. Kirkwall is 25 minutes further on.

Kirkwall is Orkney’s main town, with St Magnus Cathedral, founded in 1137 and built of red and yellow sandstone, in the middle of its narrow main street. Take the A965 west towards Stromness and turn onto the B9055 for the Standing Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar, both free and open at all hours. Maeshowe chambered tomb is nearby and can only be visited on a booked tour.

Skara Brae lies on the Bay of Skaill, about 20 minutes north-west. Allow a couple of hours for the replica house, the museum and the walk along the shore to the excavated village. Finish in Stromness, a stone-built harbour town with a flagstone main street. Distances on Orkney are short, but the roads are narrow and the wind is strong, so keep awnings stowed when you park.