Bornholm by ferry: round churches and Hammershus

Route description

The fastest way to Bornholm from Copenhagen is over the Øresund Bridge, which has a toll, and along the E65 through Skåne to Ystad in Sweden, about an hour and a quarter. From Ystad the fast ferry crosses to Rønne in about 80 minutes. There is also an overnight car ferry from Køge. Book vehicle space ahead in July, as sailings fill up fast.

Rønne is Bornholm’s main town, with cobbled streets and low painted houses. Head south-east through farmland and forest to Dueodde, where the beach of fine white sand stretches for kilometres below dunes and pines. From the car park, boardwalks cross the dunes to the sea, and the lighthouse can be climbed in summer. Then follow the east coast north through Nexø.

Svaneke is a small harbour town of red-roofed houses and old merchants’ yards. Inland, Østerlars Church is the largest of the island’s four round churches, with thick walls built for defence. Gudhjem, on the north coast, climbs steeply up from its harbour; smoked herring is the local speciality, and boats run from here to the Ertholmene islands.

The coast road west from Gudhjem passes the cliffs at Helligdommen and runs through Allinge. Just beyond it, Hammershus stands high on the cliffs, often called the largest castle ruin in Northern Europe, with a visitor centre below it and paths out to the Hammeren headland. Distances on Bornholm are short, and the island is easy for motorhomes, although the roads into the harbours are steep and narrow.