In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Gävle via Söderhamn, Hudiksvall, Delsbo, Ljusdal and Järvsö to Los and back via Bollnäs and Sandviken: a good 700 kilometres through Hälsingland and Gästrikland, past the seven UNESCO farmsteads, Baltic harbours, forest lakes and the Hälsingeleden.
The spirit of the route
Hälsingland hides its best behind birches and fences. The road runs through forest, bog and river valleys, and then a mighty farmstead suddenly stands on the slope: painted red, white window frames, a festive hall upstairs whose walls peasant painters covered in the 19th century with flowers and biblical scenes. From your sliding door you look out over meadows where the mist lingers until breakfast, and in the evening over lakes so still that the pines stand twice. On the coast the picture changes: timber warehouses in Hudiksvall harbour, log-floating towns on the Ljusnan, steel towns and mill-owners’ houses in the south, in Gästrikland. This route is not made for hurry. It lives on farm visits by arrangement, swimming stops, mushroom and berry forests and long country roads where you may not meet a car for an hour. On a pitch by the water the day ends with coffee and the feeling of having arrived in the heart of farmers’ country.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Gävle to Söderhamn (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- From Gävle take the E4 north, later through the coastal landscape of Gästrikland and Hälsingland; the road is well built, partly with a central barrier and with bypasses around towns. Ljusne, at the mouth of the Ljusnan, lies close to the route and can be reached with a short detour. Pure driving time is a good hour; with stops, easily half a day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gävle: Gamla Gefle, the preserved wooden-house quarter of the old town, and the harbour – quietest on foot in the morning.
- Ljusne: mill town on the Ljusnan, shaped by the history of timber and log floating; stroll along the river.
- Söderhamn: wooden town with a harbour and town park; the aviation museum on the grounds of the former F 15 air base (check opening times in advance).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Gävle, the pitch Ställplats Gavleån near the river (with electricity and service point according to OSM data; check the current status in advance). North-east of the town on the coast, Furuviks Havscamping at Furuvik. In Söderhamn, Söderhamns citycamping as a motorhome pitch in the centre, and also Stugsunds ställplats on the coast. Check facilities and season with each operator.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Overnighting at public rest areas (rastplats) along the E4 is usually tolerated where no sign forbids it. In Gävle and Söderhamn, time limits or overnight bans often apply in the harbour and centre; it is better to use the designated pitches.
- Insider tip for campers
- It is best to empty your tanks and fill up with fresh water in Gävle or Söderhamn before the route leads into the sparsely populated interior. Many filling stations along the coast are unmanned: keep a credit card with PIN ready.
2Stage 2: Söderhamn to Hudiksvall (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- First a short way west to Söderala (Asta), then back to the coast and on the E4 and country roads to Hudiksvall. Small, quiet side roads to the farmstead with little traffic; the access road can be narrow. Around 1.5 hours’ driving time without sightseeing.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Erik-Anders in Asta, Söderala: one of the seven UNESCO farmsteads, a large Hälsingegård with artfully painted festive rooms and a visitor centre with café. Ask the farm about visiting options and guided tours.
- Hudiksvall: harbour and old town with wooden warehouses; the Hälsinglands Museum tells the region’s history (check times).
- Short beach stop on the coast north of Söderhamn, where pine forest reaches down to the water.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Hudiksvall, Malnbadens Camping east of the centre near the beach; also Urö Ställplats with electricity and service point according to OSM data, and Rogsta Hembygdsgård as a simple pitch. Check electricity, waste disposal and season before arrival.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the visitor car parks at Erik-Anders, overnighting in the vehicle is not intended; ask at the farm before you stay there. Wild camping in a vehicle on private land without permission is not covered.
- Insider tip for campers
- Before you set out, ask Länsstyrelsen Gävleborg or the farm about visiting options – all the World Heritage farmsteads except Fågelsjö are privately owned and accessible only to varying degrees. Where the access road is narrow, parking on the main road and walking in can be better with long vehicles.
3Stage 3: Hudiksvall to Delsbo (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- From Hudiksvall north towards Bergsjö and from there west through forest and lake country to Delsbo. Quiet country roads, changing surfaces, short climbs; check the route and road numbers in your sat nav before driving. About two and a half hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Bergsjö: village in Nordanstig municipality, north of Hudiksvall – a place for a break; check shopping and fuel options in advance.
- Delsbo: the good five-kilometre walking loop “Femkilometersslingan” (Naturkartan) for a first hike.
- Norra Dellen: large lake with bathing spots near Delsbo, good for a long evening by the water.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Delsbo Camping near the village; Ställplats Dellenbaden and Norra Dellen Camping at the lake; Femettan Ställplats north of Delsbo. Electricity and service points vary from site to site – check details with the operator.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Rest areas and lakeside car parks around the Dellen lakes are partly designated as nature reserve or bathing spot; overnighting in the vehicle only where signs do not prohibit it, and not directly on the shore or on private land.
- Insider tip for campers
- You will find more on Delsbo Forngård and the route towards the coast and the Höga Kusten in the CampingSpirit guide “Red Stugor, Siljan and land uplift – by camper through Dalarna and Hälsingland to the Höga Kusten”. All you need here: fuel up and shop in Hudiksvall or Bergsjö before heading into the quieter area; many filling stations are unmanned.
4Stage 4: Delsbo to Ljusdal (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- From Delsbo on country roads through the forests to Ljusdal, a transport hub of the region. Little traffic, long straights, game crossing the road especially at dusk. Around one hour’s driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Bommars in Letsbo (Ljusdal municipality): one of the seven World Heritage farmsteads, high at the edge of the village in the Ljusnan valley; guided tours by prior booking, do not walk onto the farm without agreement.
- Ljusdal: Hembygdsgård and village centre; the river Ljusnan with bathing spots.
- Walk or bike ride in the forest areas around Ljusdal when the berries are ripe.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Ljusdals Camping near the centre with electricity, sanitary facilities and service point according to OSM data; the pitch Ljusdals hembygdsgård with simple facilities. As an alternative, Färila IF Camping west of Ljusdal. Check season and prices in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Farm car parks are not campsites; ask the owners before you stay overnight there. At rest areas along the country roads a night is usually tolerated as long as there is no prohibition sign.
- Insider tip for campers
- Besides the seven World Heritage farmsteads, around 40 more Hälsingegårdar open to visitors in summer; overviews from Länsstyrelsen and Region Gävleborg help with planning, and it is best to ask the farm directly about times.
5Stage 5: Ljusdal to Järvsö (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- Short stage on the country road through the Ljusnan valley to Järvsö; well built, with bypasses and roundabouts, but dense traffic on the outskirts of Järvsö in summer. Around 25 minutes without a stop – the day belongs to sightseeing.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Kristofers in Stene near Järvsö: World Heritage farmstead with painted rooms, in family ownership for many generations; visits by prior booking, information from the Stenegård visitor centre.
- Vildriket (formerly Järvzoo): wildlife park with Nordic animals such as bears, wolves, lynx and wolverines, seen from wooden walkways in the forest (check opening times and admission in advance).
- Järvsöklack: nature reserve with a lookout hill east of Järvsö, ascent about 1.4 kilometres; motor vehicles are prohibited in the reserve, parking only at the designated spot.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Järvsö Camping near the village; also Mines Camping about six kilometres south of the village centre. In high summer booking is advisable; check facilities and opening times with the operator.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Järvsö there are numerous nature reserves and private properties; overnighting in the vehicle away from the designated sites is not covered. Park only on visitor car parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- Combine farmstead, wildlife park and lookout hill on the same day only with a time buffer – the visits take longer than expected. Stock up on food and water in Järvsö or Ljusdal before continuing into the forest areas.
6Stage 6: Järvsö to Los (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- From Järvsö back towards Ljusdal and then on country roads west through forest and hill country to Los. Lonely roads, few villages, filling stations far apart; game crossing. Driving time about two hours. The last stretch to the farmstead is partly narrow.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Fågelsjö gammelgård (Bortom Åa) in the Los area, a forest settlement on the border with Dalarna: the only World Heritage farmstead not in private ownership (the owner is Ljusdal municipality); with shop, café and bakery, check opening times with the farm.
- Los: forest village in western Hälsingland; the Hälsingeleden ends here, and at the Loos hembygdsgård there is a link to the Finnmarksleden.
- Lakes and bog landscape along the route; in late summer, berry and mushroom forests (observe the right of public access and nature reserves).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Loos camping at Los, near the heritage farmstead. Look for further sites in the area in advance via park4night or Campercontact; ask about season and facilities.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the forests around Los, overnighting in the vehicle at public rest areas is usually tolerated; private tracks, forest roads and nature reserves are taboo. Observe fire bans.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill the tank in Ljusdal or Järvsö: between Ljusdal and Los there are only a few filling stations. Do not forget mosquito and tick protection – in forest and bog both are common in summer.
7Stage 7: Los to Bollnäs (approx. 130 km)
- The drive
- From Los back east to Ljusdal, then south via Vallsta and Arbrå towards Bollnäs. Long, quiet country roads through forest and river valleys with a few level crossings; check current roadworks in advance with Trafikverket. Driving time about two and a half hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gästgivars in Vallsta (Arbrå): World Heritage farmstead with visitor centre, café and restaurant; guided tours in season, check times in advance.
- Bollnäs: town with shopping and a starting point for sections of the Hälsingeleden.
- Hälsingeleden: long-distance hiking trail that begins in the Harsa area south of Bollnäs and runs to Los; the stages vary in length (one section, Gruvstigen–Hedbäcken, measures 15 kilometres according to Naturkartan). Choose individual sections for day hikes and check the route of the trail in Naturkartan.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Bollnäs Camping near the town; further sites at Långnäs Camping and Vevlingestrands Camping by the lake (facilities according to OSM data; check season in advance).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At rest areas along the country roads a night is usually tolerated. The right of public access covers tents, not motorhomes across the board; on private land the owner’s consent is required.
- Insider tip for campers
- For the Hälsingeleden you should pack water, maps and sturdy shoes; the waymarking is not equally dense everywhere. Allow time buffers for level crossings and farm traffic.
8Stage 8: Bollnäs to Gävle (via Alfta, Ockelbo, Sandviken) (approx. 145 km)
- The drive
- From Bollnäs to Alfta and Långhed, then south via Ockelbo and Sandviken back to Gävle. Quiet country roads, short sections on main roads, dense traffic around Sandviken/Gävle. Pure driving time about two and a half hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pallars and Jon-Lars in Långhed near Alfta: two World Heritage farmsteads right next to each other; visits only by prior booking.
- Sandviken: steel town where Göran Fredrik Göransson made the Bessemer process a success in 1858; Högbo Bruk as an industrial and recreational area.
- Gävle: final evening with a riverside promenade and the old town Gamla Gefle.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Back in Gävle, the pitch Ställplats Gavleån; as an alternative Furuviks Havscamping north-east of the town. In Alfta, Alfta Bad & Camping; in Ockelbo, according to OSM data, the Caravan Club Ockelbo (access partly for members only). Check season and access in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Alfta and Ockelbo rest areas are widespread; overnighting there is usually tolerated as long as there is no prohibition sign. In Gävle and Sandviken, bans apply in the centre and industrial areas.
- Insider tip for campers
- Use the last stage to empty your tanks, do laundry and refuel in Gävle before you start the journey home. If you are travelling on south, keep an eye on the congestion charges in Stockholm.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- The Swedish right of public access (allemansrätten) applies to tents, not across the board to motorhomes. Parking is allowed at public car parks and rest areas where no signs forbid it; overnighting in the vehicle is mostly tolerated there but is not a legal entitlement. On private land you need the owner’s consent.
- World Heritage farmsteads and their car parks belong to private individuals, except Fågelsjö; camping there only with express permission. Nature reserves (naturreservat) have their own rules, with prohibitions posted at the entrance; on shorelines Strandskydd also applies.
- Fires and barbecuing are often banned in dry summers (eldningsförbud); observe notices from the municipalities and from Länsstyrelsen.
- Helpful apps: park4night, Campercontact and the Swedish pitch directories (ställplatser); Naturkartan shows hiking trails, rest areas and bathing spots.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Waste disposal: “latrintömning” (toilet) and “gråvattentömning” (grey water) are available at many campsites, motorhome pitches and filling stations. Empty the cassette only at designated points.
- Tap water is good in Sweden. You can fill up with fresh water at campsites, motorhome pitches and some filling stations.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped in Sweden, and connections differ. Bring adapters and enough full cylinders; autogas (LPG) is rare.
- Alcohol above 3.5% ABV is sold only at Systembolaget, with limited opening hours. Many filling stations inland are unmanned and accept only cards with PIN.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t follow the car limits (outside built-up areas mostly 70–100 km/h, motorway up to 120 km/h). For motorhomes over 3.5 t the classification in the vehicle registration document decides; if in doubt, 80 km/h applies outside built-up areas. With a trailer, generally no more than 80 km/h applies, provided the braking requirements are met. The Trafikförordningen was amended on this with SFS 2026:1052 (in force from 1 December 2026); check the conditions with Transportstyrelsen, a lower sign always takes precedence.
- Dimensions: Sweden allows a width of up to 2.6 m and a length of up to 12 m for single vehicles. A general height limit is not documented; low bridges are signposted, and if in doubt ask Transportstyrelsen.
- Dipped headlights are mandatory in daytime too, the blood alcohol limit is 0.2 per mille, and using a mobile phone while driving is prohibited.
- Game crossing: moose are common in Hälsingland and Gästrikland, especially at dusk. Drive slowly then, brake in good time and do not swerve; after a wildlife collision inform the police (112 if there are injuries or danger, otherwise 114 14) and secure the accident site.
- Winter tyres are required from 1 December to 31 March in wintry conditions (minimum tread depth 3 mm); in October and November frost and ice can occur.
- Tolls: Sweden has no vignette; no toll bridges are known on this route. Environmental zones (miljözon) generally affect lorries and buses – check the current status for Gävle with the city in advance. Congestion charges in Stockholm and Gothenburg are billed by invoice for foreign vehicles.
- In late autumn many campsites are closed; designated motorhome pitches (ställplatser) are partly open all year, but not all of them then offer water.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Insect repellent and a mosquito net for windows and sliding door – mosquitoes and black flies are common in forest and lake areas in June and July.
- Gas adapter and two full cylinders – swapping German cylinders is not possible in Sweden.
- Card payment with PIN plus some cash – many filling stations and motorhome pitches are unmanned.
- Wellies and a rucksack for the Hälsingeleden and the berry and mushroom forests.
- Hi-vis vest, torch and warning triangle for dusk driving on moose stretches.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
