In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
A good 400 kilometres from Plasencia via the abandoned walled village of Granadilla into the slate valleys of Las Hurdes, over the ridges of the Sierra de Gata to Coria: short stages, tight hairpins and a cold charco under the alders in the evening.
The spirit of the route
Northern Extremadura is a land of valleys, not plains. Beyond the Gabriel y Galán reservoir, the roads in Las Hurdes climb in loops over slopes of dark slate, lined with terraces, olive trees and chestnuts. The villages cling to the hillside, roofed flat with stone slabs, as if they had broken away from the mountain. Below, clear water foams over smooth-worn rock, and in the afternoons local families meet at the charcos. From the sliding door you watch vultures circling over the Meandro del Melero and smell rockrose and warm stone. Further west the rock turns to granite, the houses gain wooden balconies, and in three villages people still speak Fala, a language between Galician and Portuguese. The route demands patience at the wheel but rewards you with silence, starry skies and evenings without coaches.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Plasencia to Granadilla (Zarza de Granadilla) (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Plasencia serves only as the starting point: supermarket, filling station, water tank full. Then take the A-66 north and country roads west to Zarza de Granadilla; from there a narrow, paved access road leads through holm-oak pastures to the car park in front of the walled village. Hardly any climbs, around 45 minutes of pure driving time; the last few kilometres are single-track with passing places.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Plasencia, briefly: the old and new cathedrals stand wall to wall – an hour's walk is enough before you set off. More on the city, the Valle del Jerte, La Vera, Cáceres, Trujillo and Monfragüe National Park is in the CampingSpirit travel guide “Vultures, granite and cherry blossom” through Extremadura from Mérida to La Vera.
- Granadilla: a village of Moorish origin with an almost circular wall and a single entrance on the north side; expropriated for the reservoir, its last inhabitants left in 1964, but it was never flooded because it lies above the maximum water level. The walk along the walls shows water, islands and the Sierra de Gata on the horizon.
- Castle at the village entrance, extended in the 15th century under the Dukes of Alba: from the tower you look out over the village and the reservoir, on whose shores cranes stand in winter and storks in spring.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On the edge of Zarza de Granadilla, around 5 km before the walled village, the private motorhome stopover “Área Victoriano Martín” is listed (in OpenStreetMap with about 12 pitches); check facilities, prices and opening with the operator. If you need a campsite, stay in Plasencia at Camping La Chopera and visit Granadilla as a day trip.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): According to the signs and recent user reports, the car park in front of Granadilla is only open during the day, and overnight stays there are prohibited; earlier reports of tolerated nights are out of date. The reservoir shore is public water land of the Confederación Hidrográfica del Tajo – camping there is not allowed without a permit, not even at seemingly deserted coves.
- Insider tip for campers
- Granadilla only opens at fixed visiting times, Tuesday to Sunday with a lunch break – on Mondays you will be standing at a locked gate. Entry is free. The car park is partly sloping: keep levelling blocks to hand and don't park the camper under the low-hanging holm oaks.
2Stage 2: Granadilla to Riomalo de Abajo (Las Hurdes) (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- West of the reservoir via Mohedas de Granadilla and La Pesga to Caminomorisco, the main town of Las Hurdes. Then north on the EX-204, the main artery of the comarca: well built at first, then with many bends through pines and slate slopes via Vegas de Coria down into the Alagón valley to Riomalo de Abajo. Pure driving time just under 1.5 hours; side roads to the alquerías are narrow and steep.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Caminomorisco: supply town with shops and a bank, a base for the valleys; this is where granite and dehesa give way to slate.
- Mirador de la Antigua above the Meandro del Melero: the viewpoint can be reached from Riomalo de Abajo on foot or via a track. The Alagón flows around an almost round mountain spur; griffon and black vultures, black storks and short-toed eagles are regularly seen.
- Bridge and bathing spot in Riomalo de Abajo: the Ladrillar river flows into the Alagón here; in summer people swim at the piscina natural.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Riomalo in Riomalo de Abajo by the river, according to the operator and OSM with tent and motorhome pitches, electricity and sanitary facilities; check service point and season in advance. In summer and on long weekends the village is full, so book then.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The access road to the Mirador de la Antigua is now surfaced and has a small car park, but it is not an overnight spot and is tight for large vehicles – walking is the better choice. The river meander lies on the border with the province of Salamanca and with protected areas; wild camping on the riverbank and at the reservoir is not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Visit the viewpoint early in the morning: there is often mist in the valley then, and the vultures rise with the first thermals. In autumn you can hear the red deer rut (berrea). La Alberca and the Sierra de Francia are only a few kilometres north – they are covered in the CampingSpirit travel guide through Castile from Madrid via Gredos to Salamanca.
3Stage 3: Riomalo de Abajo to Riomalo de Abajo (via Riomalo de Arriba and Ladrillar) (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Day loop without moving camp: up the valley on the narrow road along the Río Ladrillar to Riomalo de Arriba, on to Ladrillar and, if you like, to Cabezo. Many tight bends, the road in places barely wider than a motorhome, crash barriers only on some sections. Out and back on the same road, around 1.5 hours of driving. Vehicles over 7 m are better off taking the bike or staying below.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Arquitectura negra in Riomalo de Arriba and Cabezo: houses of dry-stone slate walls with flat stone-slab roofs and tiny windows – some lanes are preserved almost unchanged.
- Ladrillar: terraces with olives, fruit trees and beehives (Las Hurdes is known for its honey), plus bathing spots in the river below the village.
- Footpaths between the alquerías: old mule tracks link the villages; even short sections show the terraces and slate huts on the hillside.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Second night at Camping Riomalo. As far as we know, neither a campsite nor an official área de autocaravanas is listed in the Ladrillar valley.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the alquerías parking space is scarce and belongs to the residents – don't stop in turning areas or in front of garages. Sleeping in the vehicle is only legal where normal parking is permitted; car parks at bathing spots are often signposted with overnight bans.
- Insider tip for campers
- Never turn round in the village centres: the lanes often end in steps. Park at the village entrance and walk in. Honey, olives and fig bread are best bought directly in the villages or from small cooperatives.
4Stage 4: Riomalo de Abajo to Pinofranqueado (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- Back south on the EX-204 to Vegas de Coria, then into the valley of the Río Hurdano to Nuñomoral and on into the side valley of the Malvellido via Martilandrán and Fragosa to El Gasco at the head of the valley. The road is narrow but paved; the village approaches are steep. Back to the EX-204 and via Caminomorisco to Pinofranqueado. A good 2 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- El Gasco: from the end of the village a footpath leads to the Chorro de la Meancera waterfall, which is at its strongest after rain.
- Martilandrán and Fragosa: alquerías with well-preserved slate architecture high above the Malvellido, which winds through tight meanders here.
- Pinofranqueado: bathing spot on the Río Esperabán in the middle of the village, the meeting place of the comarca in summer.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping del Pino in Pinofranqueado on the Río Esperabán, with motorhome pitches, electricity and sanitary facilities; check season and facilities with the operator. Close to the bathing spot it gets full in July and August.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): There are only a few larger parking areas in the Hurdano valley; at the head of the valley in El Gasco space for turning is limited. Overnight stays are not designated there – plan the night at the campsite in Pinofranqueado.
- Insider tip for campers
- Only drive into the centres of Martilandrán and Fragosa with a compact camper; with larger vehicles, park on the edge of the village and walk. There are few filling stations in Las Hurdes – set off with a full tank from Plasencia or Coria and only top up here if necessary.
5Stage 5: Pinofranqueado to Gata (via Robledillo de Gata) (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- Out of Las Hurdes south-west into the Sierra de Gata to Torre de Don Miguel, then up the valley to Descargamaría and on to Robledillo de Gata; back on the same road and on to Gata. We could not confirm a continuously paved link over the ridge directly from Pinofranqueado to Robledillo – don't drive routes the satnav suggests there without checking. From Descargamaría on, many bends and narrow sections, slippery when wet. Around 2 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Robledillo de Gata: Conjunto Histórico with houses of slate and wooden balconies, built along a stream; an old oil mill in the village has been turned into a museum.
- Gata: fountains on almost every square, the parish church of San Pedro and manor houses with coats of arms, surrounded by slopes of olive and chestnut trees.
- Bathing spots of the Sierra de Gata: many villages have dammed river pools in summer; the water stays cool even when it is over 35 degrees outside.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On the edge of Gata there is a municipal área de autocaravanas (in OpenStreetMap with around 15 pitches); there is another in Torre de Don Miguel. Check facilities and fees in advance on Campercontact or park4night. A few kilometres south-west of Gata, Camping & Bungalows Sierra de Gata is an alternative with sanitary facilities.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Robledillo de Gata has hardly any parking; motorhomes stay at the village entrance. The ridges are part of the Natura 2000 sites of the Sierra de Gata; camping behaviour outside the áreas is not allowed there, and forest tracks are often closed in summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- Don't drive through Robledillo – the through road is steep with no room to pass. Fill up with water in Gata; in the mountain villages the fountains often have drinking water, but watch out for “agua no potable” signs.
6Stage 6: Gata to Valverde del Fresno (via Hoyos and Trevejo) (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- Via Acebo and Hoyos west through olive groves and chestnut woods, then via Villamiel to the castle rock of Trevejo and to San Martín de Trevejo; finally down to Valverde del Fresno. Moderately difficult, many bends, short steep ramps on the village approaches. Pure driving time around 1.5 hours, a full day with village visits.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Hoyos: considered the former summer residence of the bishops of Coria, with granite noble palaces and wide views south over the plain.
- Trevejo: castle ruin on a granite rock, below it the small church with a free-standing bell tower and graves carved into the rock – a quiet spot for sunset.
- San Martín de Trevejo: granite houses with wooden balconies, and water running through the lanes in channels. Here, in Eljas and in Valverde del Fresno, people speak Fala, which is protected as a Bien de Interés Cultural; each village has its own variant.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: The campsite “Valverde Natural” is listed in Valverde del Fresno; check the season, motorhome pitches and facilities with the operator in advance. Otherwise go back to the área in Gata or on to the área in Moraleja on the way to Coria.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The access road to Trevejo ends at a small car park below the village; it is not intended for overnight stays. In San Martín de Trevejo parking is scarce and the village centre is unsuitable for motorhomes – park at the village entrance.
- Insider tip for campers
- Keep the width of your vehicle in mind: the approach to the castle rock of Trevejo is narrow and winding. In Hoyos and San Martín there are bakeries and small shops that close over lunch; buy bread and supplies in the morning.
7Stage 7: Valverde del Fresno to Coria (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- Down from the mountains into the plain of the Árrago and via Moraleja south-east to Coria on the Río Alagón. Wide, well-built country roads, hardly any climbs, around an hour of pure driving time. Before Coria it gets hot and open: holm oaks, pastures, irrigated fields.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Coria Cathedral: Gothic-Plateresque cathedral on the edge of the old town, with views over the Alagón valley; check opening hours and admission in advance.
- Town walls and castle: the walls date back to Roman times and were later reinforced; the tower of the Dukes of Alba dominates the old town.
- Puente Seco: the old bridge over the Alagón now stands on dry land because the river has changed its course – a fine photo subject with the cathedral behind it.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Municipal área de autocaravanas on Calle Olimpiada in Coria: according to Campercontact up to 8 pitches for motorhomes up to 8 m, fresh water, grey-water and chemical-toilet disposal, no electricity. The área in Moraleja, around 20 km away, is an alternative. For a campsite, go back to Plasencia.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Coria the área is the first choice. On the banks of the Alagón and at the Puente Seco you can park but not camp; chairs and awning stay packed away, and watch for signs on maximum parking times.
- Insider tip for campers
- Coria's old town is narrow and partly cobbled; the camper stays at the área and you reach the old town on foot. In June Coria celebrates the Sanjuanes with bulls in the streets – the old town and car parks are then closed or overcrowded; check the dates in advance.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Basic Spanish principle: sleeping in a legally parked vehicle is allowed, but camping with anything that extends beyond the vehicle's outline is not. Since 1 October 2026, Real Decreto 518/2026 (new Art. 92.4 of the Reglamento General de Circulación) explicitly defines when a motorhome is correctly parked: no parts extending beyond the vehicle's outline, contact with the ground only via the tyres (levelling blocks allowed), no discharge of liquids. Municipalities may still regulate parking times, zones and maximum duration, but according to the DGT may not impose penalties solely because of the vehicle type; rules for protected areas and coasts apply regardless.
- Extremadura: Decree 46/2025 of the Junta de Extremadura makes clear that sleeping in a motorhome is not wild camping as long as everything stays inside the vehicle; camping is only allowed on campsites, designated camping zones and in áreas de autocaravanas. In the áreas, stays are limited to a maximum of 72 hours.
- Protected areas: large parts of Las Hurdes and the Sierra de Gata are Natura 2000 sites; to the north lies the Parque Natural Las Batuecas–Sierra de Francia. Camping behaviour is not allowed in these areas, and forest tracks may be closed in summer because of fire risk – respect signs and barrier chains.
- Riverbanks and reservoirs: banks, bathing spots and reservoirs such as Gabriel y Galán and Borbollón are public water property; camping there is prohibited without a permit. Car parks at charcos often have overnight bans or time limits in summer.
- In practice: in the alquerías of Las Hurdes and the granite villages of the Sierra de Gata parking is scarce; park at the village entrance and spend the night at the áreas in Gata, Torre de Don Miguel, Moraleja and Coria or at the campsites in Riomalo de Abajo, Pinofranqueado and Valverde del Fresno. Apps: park4night, Campercontact, Áreas AC; check the status in advance, as older reviews are often out of date.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points: in Las Hurdes the options are thin; use the campsites in Riomalo de Abajo and Pinofranqueado. In the Sierra de Gata and the plain, the áreas in Gata, Torre de Don Miguel, Moraleja and Coria provide services (in Coria fresh water, grey-water and chemical-toilet disposal). Plasencia is the last major supply town before the start.
- Empty grey water and chemical toilets only at the stations; since October 2026, discharging liquids in car parks is also explicitly prohibited under the new Art. 92.4 RGC. In summer the rivers are low and sensitive – no soap or washing-up water at the bathing spots.
- Drinking water: village fountains are common in the Sierra de Gata, but not all are marked as “agua potable”; only use signposted fountains. In summer, plan to carry at least two days' water on board, because the áreas between Las Hurdes and Gata are far apart.
- Gas: German cylinders are not refilled in Spain, and Spanish cylinders are hardly available to non-residents. Campingaz can be exchanged at ferreterías and some filling stations. Autogas (LPG) is only available in the larger towns in northern Extremadura; arrive with a full tank and carry Euro and bayonet adapters.
- Fuel and shopping: filling stations and supermarkets in Plasencia, Coria and Moraleja; in Las Hurdes and the mountain villages filling stations are rare. Shops usually close from about 2 to 5 pm and on Sundays; keep cash handy for small shops and áreas.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 120 km/h on autopistas and autovías; over 3.5 t and vehicles with trailers 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 90 km/h on motorways. In built-up areas 50 km/h, and 30 km/h on urban roads with only one lane in each direction. The A-66 and the region's country roads are toll-free.
- Narrow mountain roads: on the EX-204 and especially the minor roads in Las Hurdes and the Sierra de Gata, bends are often blind and the road narrow. Drive downhill in a low gear; sounding the horn before bends because of oncoming traffic is allowed and common; when meeting other vehicles, wait at passing places. Use navigation with a motorhome profile and avoid shortcuts over forest tracks.
- Wildfire risk: every year the Junta de Extremadura sets a period of high fire risk (usually from 1 June to 15 October, extension possible). During this time open fires, barbecues and campfires are prohibited in rural areas; in extreme conditions forest tracks, rest areas and bathing spots may be closed. Las Hurdes and the Sierra de Gata have repeatedly been hit by large wildfires. Emergency number 112; if there is smoke, don't drive into dead-end valleys.
- Summer heat: in July and August temperatures in the valleys regularly exceed 38 degrees, and more in Coria and the plain. Drive in the morning, park in the shade, check coolant and tyre pressure; don't let the brakes overheat on long descents. Spring (April, May) and autumn (October) are the most pleasant times to travel.
- Bathing spots: many charcos and piscinas naturales are only supervised in summer or not at all; lifeguards are rare. Observe signposted bathing bans (water quality, low water level, currents), don't jump from rocks if you don't know the depth, and only let dogs into the water where it is allowed.
- Other rules: since 1 January 2026 the connected V16 warning light has been compulsory for vehicles registered in Spain; according to the DGT, foreign-registered vehicles still comply with the rules using their own country's warning triangles, but a DGT-approved V16 is an inexpensive safeguard. A hi-vis vest is compulsory when getting out on the road. Bike racks and loads that overhang at the rear must be marked with the red-and-white striped V-20 warning panel. Blood alcohol limit 0.5 ‰ (novice drivers 0.3 ‰), mobile phones at the wheel prohibited. As far as we know, Plasencia and Coria have no low-emission zone (ZBE); check the current status in advance.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Levelling blocks or ramps – áreas and village car parks in Las Hurdes are often sloping, and blocks are explicitly allowed under the new Spanish parking rules, whereas levelling jacks are not.
- Water shoes with firm soles – the rocks at the charcos are smooth slate and granite, often covered with algae in the water.
- Fire extinguisher and gas stove instead of a barbecue – during the fire-risk period open fires are prohibited, and the slopes are dry.
- Navigation with a motorhome profile and offline maps – mobile coverage in the valleys is patchy, and routes over forest tracks lead into dead ends.
- Collapsible water containers for 10 to 20 litres – the service points between Las Hurdes and Gata are far apart.
- Binoculars – at the Meandro del Melero and in Trevejo, griffon and black vultures often circle below the viewpoint.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
