In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Melk along the Moststraße into the Ybbs Valley, through the limestone mountains to Lunz and Mariazell and through the Ötschergräben back into the Erlauf Valley: around 375 kilometres of Lower Austria away from the Danube, with cider taverns, pilgrimage towns and a gorge you have to experience on foot.
The spirit of the route
South of the Danube, Lower Austria goes quiet. Between Ybbs and Amstetten, four-sided farmsteads stand like fortresses in the hills, fronted by rows of old perry pear trees that blossom white in April and hang heavy in autumn. In the Mostheuriger, the farmer pours pear cider, bacon and farmhouse bread lie on the board, and behind the sliding door dusk slowly settles over the orchard meadows. Further south the valleys close in: the Ybbs and the Erlauf cut through limestone mountains, Ybbsitz smells of coal and iron, and the Lunzer See lies green and cold below the Dürrenstein. Then the Ötscher, the “father mountain” of Lower Austrians, and at its foot the Ötschergräben with waterfalls, paths and walkways. This route is slow, winding and small-scale – it rewards those who get out, hike and listen.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Melk to Sonntagberg (Moststraße) (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- From Melk along the south bank of the Danube via Pöchlarn to Ybbs, on upstream to Ardagger Stift and then south into the hill country of the Moststraße: narrow regional roads between four-sided farmsteads, orchard meadows and small parish villages, only skirting the edge of Amstetten. Finally the mountain road up to the Basilica of Sonntagberg. A good 2 hours without breaks; the Moststraße is more a network of signposted side roads than a continuous line.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Melk Abbey only as a brief opener – visit the abbey early in the morning before the coaches arrive; the Wachau itself is left aside this time.
- MostBirnHaus in Ardagger Stift: interactive museum all about perry pears, cider and fruit brandy, next to the Romanesque collegiate church with the medieval Margaret window.
- Basilica of Sonntagberg at around 700 m: pilgrimage church with a wide view over the Mostviertel to the Ybbstal Alps and, when the air is clear, to the Ötscher.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: By the Basilica of Sonntagberg there is a small motorhome aire with only a few pitches; check facilities and fee on site or with the municipality. If you need to fill up and empty, plan Campingplatz Melk on the Danube for the night before. An alternative are Mostheurige and farms with their own pitches, which you can find through networks such as “Schau aufs Land” or aire apps.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Lower Austria prohibits camping with a motorhome, caravan or tent in open countryside outside approved sites – this also applies to the farm track under the pear tree. So only stay overnight on designated aires or where a farm explicitly offers a pitch, and ask if in doubt.
- Insider tip for campers
- Mostheurige are only “ausg’steckt” (open) on certain days; opening days are listed on the businesses’ websites and those of the Moststraße. You can recognise the Mostbarone – an association of cider producers and innkeepers – by the hat and sign at the premises. If you are allowed to stay overnight at a Mostheuriger, you don’t drive afterwards: the 0.5 per mille limit applies to cider too.
2Stage 2: Sonntagberg to Ybbsitz (via Waidhofen an der Ybbs) (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- A short day: from Sonntagberg down into the Ybbs Valley to Waidhofen, through the town and east into the valley of the Prollingbach to Ybbsitz. Waidhofen’s old town is narrow and traffic-calmed – drive around it with the camper and park on the edge. A good half hour of driving; the rest of the day belongs to the bike or your feet.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Waidhofen an der Ybbs: the “town of towers” with the Stadtturm, the Ybbsturm and Schloss Rothschild above the Ybbs, whose glass tower top was designed by Hans Hollein.
- Ybbstalradweg: on the line of the disused Ybbstalbahn from Waidhofen upstream towards Opponitz and Lunz, flat, with tunnels and bridges; a branch leads to Ybbsitz.
- Schmiedemeile Ybbsitz: hammer mills, smithies and wrought-iron art along the Prollingbach, plus the FeRRUM museum on the Eisenwurzen.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Between Waidhofen and Ybbsitz, Landgasthof Steinmühl offers a few motorhome pitches; electricity and sanitary facilities by arrangement, dinner in the inn right next door. In Waidhofen itself there is a small municipal motorhome aire in Schwellödgasse with only a few pitches. Ask about facilities and season in advance in each case.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Lower Austrian ban on camping in open countryside also applies in the Ybbs Valley. The car parks along the Ybbstalradweg and at trailheads are meant for parking, not for overnight stays.
- Insider tip for campers
- Unload the bikes at the aire and use the cycle path in both directions: Waidhofen–Ybbsitz and back is a leisurely half-day ride. Waidhofen has the last large supermarkets and petrol stations before the mountain valleys; top up water and gas here.
3Stage 3: Ybbsitz to Lunz am See (via Göstling) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Ybbsitz back into the Ybbs Valley and up the valley road via Opponitz and Hollenstein to Göstling an der Ybbs, then east over a gentle saddle to Lunz am See. A well-built but winding valley road between limestone cliffs, forest and river, with some narrow passages through villages. Around 1.25 hours; considerably more with the detour up the Hochkar on a steep mountain road with hairpins.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Hochkar above Göstling: mountain road up to around 1,500 m, with hiking trails at the top looking out to the Ötscher, the Dürrenstein and the Gesäuse mountains – only with a compact vehicle and good brakes.
- Lunzer See: small, cool mountain lake with a bathing area, boat hire and a lake stage; the circuit round the lake takes a good hour.
- Dürrenstein-Lassingtal Wilderness Area: part of the UNESCO World Natural Heritage of ancient beech forests; guided tours via the Haus der Wildnis in Lunz, the core zone is not freely accessible.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Ötscherland Camping in Lunz am See on the Ois, around one kilometre from the lake: motorhome pitches with electricity, fresh water, grey water and cassette disposal, sanitary block with showers and washing machine, open all year; note the length limit on pitches (figures around 8 m). In Göstling, the Krenn Camping-Stellplatz is an alternative with service point.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the Lunzer See the car parks are for day use; overnight stays in vehicles are not intended there, and the Dürrenstein-Lassingtal Wilderness Area is strictly protected. Plan on the campsite.
- Insider tip for campers
- If you want to go to the Lunzer See in high summer, arrive early: the bathing area is busy on hot weekends, and the campsite is within walking distance. In season, the heritage train “Ötscherland-Express” runs on the Ybbstalbahn mountain line between Lunz and Kienberg-Gaming – check running days with the operator.
4Stage 4: Lunz am See to Erlaufsee (via Lackenhof and Mariazell) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Lunz on the B25 over the Grubberg, at the Grubbergwirt onto the B71 to Langau, with a detour to Lackenhof at the foot of the Ötscher, then via Neuhaus and over the Zellerrain (1,121 m) down to Mariazell in Styria and on to the Erlaufsee. After Neuhaus the Zellerrain road gets more winding and steeper, with a few stiff ramps; the descent to Mariazell is steep – go down in second or third gear and don’t overheat the brakes. Just under 1.5 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lackenhof am Ötscher: starting point for the Ötscher (1,893 m) via the Rauer Kamm – a long, partly exposed mountain tour, only for the sure-footed.
- Basilica of Mariazell: Austria’s most important place of pilgrimage, with the Chapel of Grace; quieter early in the morning or in the evening.
- Erlaufsee: bathing lake on the border between Lower Austria and Styria, reachable in summer on certain days by the heritage tramway from Mariazell.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Campingplatz Erlaufsee by the lake, a few kilometres from Mariazell, with electricity and sanitary facilities; check season and facilities in advance. If you want to head into the Ötschergräben early the next morning, drive straight on to the Ötscher-Basis Wienerbruck (see stage 5).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Mariazell is in Styria: there is no state-wide camping ban there, but municipalities can prohibit it by ordinance – in pilgrimage towns such as Mariazell, campers spending the night in car parks are not welcome. There are checks at the Erlaufsee, and on the Lower Austrian side the ban in open countryside applies anyway.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Mariazellerbahn from St. Pölten to Mariazell with its “Himmelstreppe” railcars is worth a trip of its own, but only fits into this tour as a day trip without the camper. Park early in Mariazell on pilgrimage days and weekends, otherwise stop on the edge of town and walk. More on Mariazell and the onward journey through the Salza Valley is in the CampingSpirit guide through Styria from Graz to the Gesäuse.
5Stage 5: Erlaufsee to Wienerbruck (Ötschergräben) (approx. 15 km)
- The drive
- A short drive via Mitterbach am Erlaufsee and Josefsberg on the Mariazeller Straße to Wienerbruck; there turn off towards the reservoir and follow the signs to the Ötscher-Basis. Steep sections and bends around Josefsberg, otherwise straightforward. A quarter of an hour’s drive, then a hiking day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ötschergräben: from the Ötscher-Basis Wienerbruck along the reservoir, past the Lassingfall down to the Stierwaschboden power station and over paths and walkways to the Ötscherhias; as a traverse to Erlaufklause, depending on the variant, up to around 17 km and 5 to 6 hours, returning by the Mariazellerbahn.
- Mirafall and Schleierfall: beyond the Ötscherhias, a snack hut roughly halfway through the gorges, the trail leads into the rear Ötschergräben past the Mirafall; the short detour to the Schleierfall is worthwhile.
- Ötscher-Basis Wienerbruck: nature park centre with exhibition and lake terrace on the Lassing reservoir.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: The motorhome aire at the Ötscher-Basis Wienerbruck has around 15 pitches and sanitary facilities with toilets and showers, and can be booked online; the season runs roughly from May to early November. Sources contradict each other on whether electricity and a service point are provided – ask the nature park in advance and, to be safe, arrive with full fresh water and an empty cassette.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Ötscher-Tormäuer Nature Park is in Lower Austria: overnight stays outside the aire are not permitted, and hiking is only allowed on marked trails. The car parks at the railway stations and by the reservoir are for day use.
- Insider tip for campers
- Wear sturdy shoes; the paths are slippery after rain, and there is a lot of up and down. Before setting off, check the nature park’s website for trail closures – after storms, sections are closed, and in the winter half-year (according to tourism information from 1 November to 30 April) a winter closure applies. Check the train from Erlaufklause or Wienerbruck beforehand; it does not run hourly.
6Stage 6: Wienerbruck to Purgstall an der Erlauf (via Annaberg and Scheibbs) (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- From Wienerbruck briefly on the Mariazeller Straße to Annaberg, then down in hairpins to the Puchenstubener Straße (B28) and along it via Puchenstuben and the Wastl am Wald (around 1,100 m) down to Neubruck in the Erlauf Valley and on via Scheibbs to Purgstall. First a winding mountain stretch with hairpins and long descents – go easy on the brakes – then from Neubruck a wide valley road. Around 1.5 hours; as a federal road, the B28 is also passable for larger motorhomes, but it is better to avoid satnav shortcuts along side roads.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Annaberg: the pilgrimage church of St. Anna on the saddle along the old pilgrims’ road to Mariazell.
- Trefflingfall near Puchenstuben: waterfall in a narrow gorge, reached via paths and steps.
- Purgstall: a walking path along the Erlaufschlucht, which has cut deep into the conglomerate here.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Aktiv Camp Purgstall on the edge of town, with electricity, service point and sanitary facilities; a quiet site for cyclists on the Erlauftalradweg. Check season and prices with the operator.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Lower Austrian ban in open countryside also applies in the Erlauf Valley. In Scheibbs and Purgstall, stay on the designated sites.
- Insider tip for campers
- Scheibbs has supermarkets and petrol stations, the first since the Ybbs Valley. If you fancy more monastery: the Kartause Gaming, once one of the largest Carthusian monasteries in Central Europe, lies half an hour south in the Erlauf Valley, with a small municipal aire right next to it.
7Stage 7: Purgstall an der Erlauf to Steyr (via Seitenstetten) (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Via Wieselburg west back into the hill country of the Moststraße, along side roads between four-sided farmsteads to Seitenstetten and on across the Enns to Steyr in Upper Austria. Leisurely country roads, a few steep passages through villages; if you are in a hurry, take a stretch of the A1. Around 1.75 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Seitenstetten Abbey: Benedictine abbey, called the “four-sided farmstead of God” because of its location among the four-sided farmsteads, with a historic courtyard garden and Baroque rooms.
- Orchard meadows and Mostheurige around Seitenstetten and St. Peter in der Au for a last glass of pear cider.
- Steyr: town square and the confluence of the Enns and the Steyr – this is where routes into the Steyr Valley and the Upper Austrian Limestone Alps connect.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping am Fluss on the outskirts of Steyr, with electricity and sanitary facilities, on foot or by bike into the old town. Check facilities and season in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Upper Austria the municipalities regulate camping by ordinance; parking motorhomes in open countryside usually has to be notified. In Steyr, stay overnight at the campsite; the old town car parks are not intended for that.
- Insider tip for campers
- Steyr’s old town is narrow and has multi-storey car parks with height restrictions – leave the camper at the site. From Steyr, the CampingSpirit guide through Salzburg and the Salzkammergut continues west, and the guide through Styria from Graz to the Gesäuse heads south via the Eisenwurzen.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Austria, camping law is a matter for the individual states. Lower Austria – that is, almost the whole route – prohibits camping with a motorhome, caravan or tent in open countryside outside approved campsites; violations are administrative offences punishable by a fine. Camping means staying in or by the vehicle beyond a short rest.
- Styria (Mariazell, parts of the Erlaufsee) has no state-wide ban; municipalities can prohibit camping by ordinance. Upper Austria (Steyr) also regulates it through the municipalities; parking in open countryside generally has to be notified to the authority. In forests the Forestry Act applies: resting after dark and pitching a tent only with the forest owner’s consent.
- Ötscher-Tormäuer Nature Park and Dürrenstein-Lassingtal Wilderness Area: no overnight stays outside designated sites, stay on the trails. The core zone of the wilderness is only accessible on guided tours.
- You can stay legally at campsites, municipal aires and at farms, Mostheurige and inns with designated pitches. Ask beforehand, and do without table and chairs if the business only offers a parking space. Search via park4night, Campercontact, aire guides and networks such as “Schau aufs Land”.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Fresh water and disposal are available at the campsites in Melk, Lunz and Purgstall and at some municipal aires; in Steyr and at the Ötscher-Basis Wienerbruck, ask in advance. Before the detour into the Ötscherland, empty grey water and fill up with fresh water.
- Only empty cassettes and grey water at stations, never into streams or meadows – the Ybbs, the Erlauf and the Lunzer See are clean and should stay that way. Tap water is generally drinking water; at fountains, watch out for “kein Trinkwasser” (not drinking water) signs.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped everywhere; Campingaz is widely available in shops and at campsites. LPG filling stations are thin on the ground in Lower Austria and have different connectors – fill refillable cylinders before the trip and bring adapters.
- Shopping and fuel in Melk, Amstetten, Waidhofen, Scheibbs, Wieselburg and Steyr; in Lunz, Göstling, Lackenhof and Wienerbruck only small shops and inns with rest days.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 50 in built-up areas, 100 on open roads and 130 km/h on motorways; over 3.5 t, 70 on open roads and 80 km/h on motorways. For car-and-caravan combinations the limit depends on trailer load and registration. On the A1, watch for speed and IG-L (air quality) displays.
- Tolls: up to 3.5 t maximum permissible weight, a vignette is required on motorways and expressways (1 day digital only; 10 days, 2 months, year). 2026 is the last year of the sticker vignette; from 2027 it will be digital only. If bought online as a consumer, the 2-month and annual vignettes only become valid after an 18-day period; bought at a sales outlet, they are valid immediately. Over 3.5 t, the distance-based GO toll with a GO-Box applies on motorways and expressways instead of the vignette. The route itself runs almost entirely on toll-free federal and regional roads; the main toll or vignette section is the A1 between Melk, Ybbs, Amstetten and towards Linz.
- Mountain roads: the Zellerrain, the descent to Mariazell, the stretch around Josefsberg and the road up the Hochkar have steep sections and hairpins. Go downhill in a low gear, let buses and lorries go first on bends, and observe weight and length restrictions on side roads and old bridges. General dimensions: height 4.00 m, width 2.55 m, length 12 m (combination 18.75 m).
- Winter equipment: from 1 November to 15 April, a situational requirement in snow, slush or ice – Mariazell, Lackenhof, Hochkar and Annaberg are winter sports resorts and see snow early. For vehicles over 3.5 t registered as lorries, winter tyres on one drive axle and carrying snow chains are additionally required; whether this affects a heavy motorhome depends on its registration.
- Alcohol limit 0.5 per mille (probationary licence 0.1) – also after the Mostheuriger. Phone calls only hands-free; form an emergency corridor in traffic jams on multi-lane roads. If a bike rack protrudes beyond the rear: up to 1 m a red cloth, beyond that a white 25 × 40 cm board with a red reflective border.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Hiking boots with good tread and poles – the paths in the Ötschergräben are wet, steep and partly secured with cables.
- Bikes on a rear rack, marked according to Austrian regulations, for the Ybbstalradweg and Erlauftalradweg.
- A large fresh water canister and an empty cassette before Wienerbruck: it is not certain whether the aire at the Ötscher-Basis offers water and disposal.
- Empty glass bottles or a canister for pear cider and fruit brandy straight from the farm – stowed unbreakably for the bends on the Zellerrain.
- Swimwear and a warm layer: the Lunzer See and the Erlaufsee are fresh even in high summer, and the valleys cool down sharply in the evening.
- Snow chains to fit your tyre size if you drive via Mariazell and Annaberg in late autumn.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
