In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Brisbane via Lake Wivenhoe, Lake Somerset and Crows Nest up into the Bunya Mountains, on to the peanut fields of Kingaroy, to the Bjelke-Petersen Dam and back via Nanango to the Brisbane Valley: around 875 km of hinterland where wallabies graze between the campers in the evening.
The spirit of the route
Barely an hour beyond Brisbane, things go quiet. The road follows the Brisbane River into a broad valley of pastures, silos and the long stretches of water of Wivenhoe and Somerset, where mist lies in the morning. Then it climbs over the Great Dividing Range onto granite uplands, and at some point there they are: bunya pines with dome-shaped crowns, older than any settlement around them, with rainforest below, grassy balds and drop-offs to the west over the Darling Downs. From the sliding door at the Dandabah camping ground you watch red-necked wallabies grazing on unperturbed while king parrots clamber over the roof. North of here the earth turns rust-red, peanut silos tower over Kingaroy, vines grow on the slopes around Moffatdale, and anglers sit by the reservoir until dark. A loop for people who like short stages, early evenings and a landscape that reveals itself without spectacle.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Brisbane to Lake Wivenhoe (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- Brisbane is only the starting point here. Take the Centenary Motorway and the Warrego Highway towards Ipswich, then at Blacksoil (Ipswich) turn north onto the Brisbane Valley Highway. Beyond Fernvale the valley opens up; the road runs wide and well built along the Brisbane River, and you go clockwise around the suburban roundabouts. Detour to the Wivenhoe dam wall and Cormorant Bay, then back onto the Brisbane Valley Highway and down Logan Inlet Road to the lakeside campgrounds north-west of Fernvale. A good 2 hours of driving time, depending on Brisbane traffic.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Wivenhoe Dam: the wall of the largest reservoir in South East Queensland, built after the 1974 flood partly for flood mitigation; lookout and picnic areas at the dam.
- Cormorant Bay on the lakeshore: day-use area with shade, views across the water and, early in the morning, pelicans and cormorants.
- Fernvale: starting point for several sections of the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail, plus a bakery and shops for your first supplies.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Captain Logan Camp and the neighbouring Lumley Hill Camp Ground on Logan Inlet at Lake Wivenhoe, between Fernvale and Coominya: Seqwater land, run by a private operator and booked directly with them. Wide lakeside lawns, amenities, also popular for longer stays. Check facilities, powered sites and rules for dogs and generators with the operator; book early for weekends and school holidays.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On land belonging to the water supplier Seqwater, camping is only permitted at designated sites, and campfires are banned there unless expressly stated otherwise. Somerset Regional Council does, however, run free rest areas with stays of up to 20 hours, including one in Fernvale (by the Geoff Fisher Bridge on the Brisbane Valley Highway). In Brisbane itself, sleeping in your vehicle on streets and in car parks is not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Some of Brisbane's urban motorways are tolled and charged electronically only – plan your route beforehand so that you use or avoid toll roads deliberately. Fill up with fuel and water in Fernvale or Lowood; there is no petrol station at the lakes.
2Stage 2: Lake Wivenhoe to Lake Somerset (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- Head north on the Brisbane Valley Highway to Esk, the main town of the Somerset region, then east on the Esk–Kilcoy Road to Lake Somerset and the township of Somerset Dam. Quiet, well-built country roads through grazing land with views of the D’Aguilar ranges; cattle grids and the occasional cow by the roadside. Around 1 hour of driving time, leaving plenty of time for a bike ride.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Brisbane Valley Rail Trail: the roughly 161 km cycling, walking and horse-riding trail on the old railway line from Wulkuraka near Ipswich to Yarraman is considered Australia's longest rail trail. The section around Esk crosses old railway bridges and runs through open farmland.
- Esk: main street with Queenslander-style timber houses, antique shops and the old station grounds on the rail trail.
- Somerset Dam: the dam wall with its power station, and the Kirkleagh day-use area on the eastern shore for swimming, picnics and paddling.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: NRMA Lake Somerset Holiday Park on the lakeshore with powered and tent sites, cabins, amenities and boat access; alternatively the Somerset Park Camp Grounds by the lake, also Seqwater land under a private operator, bookable directly with the operator. If you want to stay on the rail trail: Esk Caravan Park on the edge of Esk, right on the cycle path.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Somerset Regional Council has free rest areas with stays of up to 20 hours in places including Toogoolawah, Moore, Linville, Harlin, Dundas and Kilcoy; in Kilcoy the showground allows stays of up to a week for a small fee. At Lake Somerset itself, overnighting outside the campgrounds is not permitted, including at the Kirkleagh day-use area.
- Insider tip for campers
- A bike on a rear rack is worth it on this route: much of the rail trail is unsealed, so wide tyres or a gravel bike are ideal. In summer start early – from midday the valley gets hot and shade is scarce. The Somerset region runs several dump points and water points; WikiCamps or CamperMate show their exact locations.
3Stage 3: Lake Somerset to Crows Nest (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- Back to Esk and west on the Esk–Hampton Road: the road climbs through eucalypt forest and along the edge of Ravensbourne National Park in several long bends onto the plateau of the Great Dividing Range. Over around 46 km it rises from about 120 m to a good 700 m; around 7 km have gradients of 5 to 10 %, short stretches such as Pryde’s Pinch more than 10 % – towing rigs should climb in a low gear and take breaks in the pull-over bays. At Hampton turn north onto the New England Highway to Crows Nest. Around 1.75 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ravensbourne National Park near Hampton: short walks through rainforest remnants with palms and tree ferns – a small park that is worth a lunch stop.
- Crows Nest National Park: track from the picnic area to Crows Nest Falls and the lookout over the granite gorge that locals call the “Valley of Diamonds” because the rocks sparkle in the evening sun.
- Crows Nest: small town on the granite plateau, named after the Aboriginal man Jimmy Crow, who according to tradition lived in a hollow tree; local history museum and bakeries on the main street.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Crows Nest Falls camping area in Crows Nest National Park, a few kilometres east of town: 13 individual grassy sites in open eucalypt forest, reachable in conventional vehicles via a short gravel access road. According to QPWS suitable for tents, camper trailers, campervans, motorhomes and caravans; pit toilets, wood barbecues (bring your own milled firewood), drink water only after boiling or treating it, generators prohibited. Book your permit online in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping in the national park is not allowed – only at your booked site. Toowoomba Regional Council, which includes Crows Nest, prohibits overnighting in town outside designated sites; rest areas of the Department of Transport and Main Roads (TMR) along the New England Highway may be used for up to 20 hours unless signs say otherwise.
- Insider tip for campers
- Toowoomba, the Scenic Rim and the Granite Belt to the south are covered in the CampingSpirit guide to the Scenic Rim and Granite Belt – this loop deliberately stays north of them. Fill up in Crows Nest and buy supplies for two days: in the Bunya Mountains there is only a small shop and no fuel.
4Stage 4: Crows Nest to Bunya Mountains (Dandabah) (approx. 105 km)
- The drive
- North on the New England Highway to Cooyar, then on the Kingaroy–Cooyar Road through hill country to Maidenwell. From here one of the three access roads of the Great Bunya Drive leads up onto the ridge. According to QPWS all access roads are steep, narrow and winding; the transport authority rates them as unsuitable for long and heavy vehicles. The Maidenwell access also has around 3 km of gravel; the access roads from Dalby via Kaimkillenbun and from Kingaroy via Kumbia are sealed, and the northern side of the latter is less steep than the southern climb. With a caravan, a large motorhome or a towing rig, it is therefore best to go up via Kingaroy and Kumbia (then do stage 5 in reverse) – or leave the trailer at the bottom. Around 2 hours of driving time, the last few kilometres in second gear.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Coomba Falls near Maidenwell: waterfall and swimming hole in a granite gorge, at its best after rain.
- Scenic Circuit from Dandabah: around 4 km through bunya and hoop pine forest to Festoon and Tim Shea Falls and to Pine Gorge Lookout.
- Evenings on the lawn at Dandabah: red-necked wallabies grazing, king parrots and crimson rosellas in the trees, and fireflies on warm spring evenings.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Dandabah camping area on the edge of the Bunya Mountains settlement: open lawn without marked sites, permitted for tents, camper trailers and caravans – though because of the mountain roads, QPWS urges caution with large vehicles. Hot showers, toilets, drink water only after treating it; open fires and generators prohibited. Book your permit online in advance. Smaller alternative on the western edge: Westcott camping area with toilets and showers, but for tents only – no caravans or camper trailers.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Bunya Mountains National Park, overnight only at the booked camping areas; lookout car parks and roadsides are off limits. The nearest free council sites are down in the villages: Maidenwell (on the Kingaroy–Cooyar Road, toilets, BBQ) and Kumbia (Bell Street, coin-operated showers), both run by South Burnett Regional Council, without power.
- Insider tip for campers
- The wallabies at Dandabah are tame but wild: do not feed them, and stow food in your vehicle at night. From December to March the football-sized cones of the bunya pines, weighing up to 10 kg, fall – do not park or sleep under fruiting trees, and watch for warning signs. Stinging trees grow in the rainforest: do not touch the leaves.
5Stage 5: Bunya Mountains to Kingaroy (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- In the morning head west along the ridge on the Bunya Mountains Road to the lookouts, then down the northern access road of the Great Bunya Drive via Kumbia to the South Burnett plains. Use a low gear downhill and spare your brakes; at the bottom, red farmland, peanut and maize fields and dead-straight country roads. A full day with walks, around 1.5 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Westcott and Cherry Plain: views from the western escarpment over the Darling Downs; the track from Paradise to Westcott follows the escarpment edge for 3.2 km (one way), and from Cherry Plain a 6 km track leads to Burtons Well.
- Barker Creek Circuit (around 10 km return) with a side trip to Big Falls Lookout; shorter is the Barker Creek Lookout Track (5.4 km return) past Paradise, Little and Big Falls, which are most impressive after heavy rain.
- Kingaroy: the peanut silos on Haly Street, landmark of Australia's “Peanut Capital”, and the visitor centre with its heritage museum right next door.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: For walkers who want to stay up top: Burtons Well camping area near the northern park entrance, on the edge of a grassy bald – tents only, no caravans or camper trailers; toilets and barbecues but no showers, treat water. Down in Kingaroy there are several caravan parks with power, amenities and waste disposal; check WikiCamps or the visitor centre for the current choice.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Kingaroy itself has no free council site. Nearest options: the Coolabunia TMR rest area on the D’Aguilar Highway south-east of town (up to 20 hours, toilets) and the council site in Kumbia. The council sites in the South Burnett have no power; length-of-stay rules are posted on signs on site.
- Insider tip for campers
- Peanuts – fresh, roasted or spiced – are sold in shops and at stalls in and around Kingaroy, ideal for the road. Kingaroy has supermarkets, petrol stations and gas bottle swaps: stock up here for the next few days. At harvest time, slow farm machinery uses the country roads around Kingaroy; overtake only with clear visibility.
6Stage 6: Kingaroy to Bjelke-Petersen Dam (Moffatdale) (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- North on the Bunya Highway via Wooroolin and Wondai to Murgon, and from there south-east to Moffatdale on the Bjelke-Petersen Dam. Flat to rolling farmland, with rows of vines on the slopes around Moffatdale. With winery stops a leisurely half day, around 1 hour of driving time. If you want to continue north: the Burnett Highway leads to Gayndah and Mundubbera with their citrus orchards – but that is more a link to a drive towards the coast than part of this loop.
- Highlights & must-sees
- South Burnett wineries around Moffatdale and Kingaroy: small family operations with cellar doors, often offering tastings of Verdelho and warm-climate reds. Opening hours vary and many are only open on certain days – call ahead. Whoever is driving doesn't taste.
- Ration Shed Museum in Cherbourg near Murgon: the history of the Aboriginal community that was forced to live here under government control – quiet, powerful, and definitely worth taking your time over.
- Queensland Dairy and Heritage Museum in Murgon, on the dairy industry that shaped the South Burnett.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Bjelke-Petersen Dam Caravan and Recreation Park (formerly known as Yallakool Caravan Park) on the reservoir shore: powered sites, kiosk with firewood, ice and basic supplies, camp kitchen with fire pit, saltwater pool, coin laundry, boat ramp with fish-cleaning tables. The dump point is for guests only. Book for long weekends and holidays.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the reservoir itself, overnight only at the park. The council site in Murgon (Krebs Street) has a camp kitchen, toilets, showers and a dump point; Wondai (Haly Street) and Wooroolin (on the Bunya Highway) have toilets and coin-operated showers – all without power. Observe the length-of-stay limits on the signs.
- Insider tip for campers
- Anyone aged 18 or over fishing with a line in the Bjelke-Petersen Dam needs a Stocked Impoundment Permit, available online, by phone or at post offices in Queensland; size and bag limits apply. In summer blue-green algae sometimes grow in the lake – heed warnings from the operator Sunwater and notices on the shore, and do not swim when they apply.
7Stage 7: Bjelke-Petersen Dam to Nanango (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Back via Murgon and on the Bunya Highway to Kingaroy, then south-east on the D’Aguilar Highway via Coolabunia to Nanango. Sealed throughout, an easy drive through farmland and hills. Around 1.25 hours of driving time; time for Kingaroy, which you may only have skirted on the way out.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Nanango: one of the oldest towns in the South Burnett, with a gold-rush history; the visitor centre has information on the old goldfields, where fossicking is only permitted with a licence.
- Ringsfield House in Nanango, a historic homestead with a garden from pioneer days.
- Evening light over the red fields between Kingaroy and Nanango, when the earth turns almost violet.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Tipperary Flat Park council site on the Burnett Highway in Nanango: toilets, covered tables, barbecue, playground and dump point, no power. If you need power and showers, Nanango has a caravan park; check WikiCamps for the current choice.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Besides Tipperary Flat, the council offers a site in Benarkin (Scott Street) with coin-operated showers and a dump point, right on the rail trail – handy for the return drive. Away from these sites, overnighting in the towns is not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Before the return drive, top up water and gas in Nanango and empty the cassette. In the evening, kangaroos cross the country roads around Nanango and Yarraman – don't schedule the last stage for dusk.
8Stage 8: Nanango to Brisbane (approx. 250 km)
- The drive
- Via Yarraman on the D’Aguilar Highway through Blackbutt and Benarkin, down from the plateau to Moore and shortly afterwards at Harlin onto the Brisbane Valley Highway heading south via Toogoolawah to Esk. Beyond Esk, detour to Coominya and the western shore of Lake Wivenhoe, then back to Brisbane via Lowood or Fernvale. The descent from the plateau beyond Benarkin is winding; otherwise it is quiet country road. A good 3.5 hours of driving time, better with an overnight stop on the way.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Yarraman: end point of the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail, with the old station grounds and the trailhead for one last ride.
- Toogoolawah: quiet town on the rail trail with a free rest area and an old-style pub.
- Coominya: small town on the rail trail with historic buildings; from here, detour to the western shore of Lake Wivenhoe for waterbirds and wide open space.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: For a stopover night: Esk Caravan Park on the rail trail, or Captain Logan Camp or Lumley Hill Camp Ground at Lake Wivenhoe once more, both booked with the operator.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The free Somerset rest areas in Linville, Moore, Harlin, Toogoolawah and Fernvale (up to 20 hours) lie right on this route. Lowood has no free overnight site; the showground charges a small fee.
- Insider tip for campers
- Before returning a rental camper, fill up and empty the tanks in Fernvale or Lowood – dump points are rare and often hard to access in Greater Brisbane. After heavy rain it is worth checking flood warnings: the Brisbane River and its tributaries flood roads quickly.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Queensland has no statewide right to free camping. The councils – here Somerset, Toowoomba and South Burnett Regional Councils and Brisbane City – regulate camping through local laws: overnighting on streets, in car parks and in parks within towns is generally prohibited; caravan parks and designated council sites are permitted. The Somerset and South Burnett sites are free or cheap but have no power; length-of-stay limits are posted on site.
- Rest areas run by the Department of Transport and Main Roads (TMR) may be used for up to 20 hours unless signs say otherwise; truck-only rest areas are off limits. On land of the water supplier Seqwater at Wivenhoe and Somerset, overnight only at designated campgrounds; overnighting on the water is not allowed.
- National parks (Crows Nest, Bunya Mountains): camping only at Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service (QPWS) camping areas with a permit booked online in advance; display your booking confirmation at your site. Weekends, public holidays and school holidays book out quickly. Generators are prohibited at the sites mentioned.
- Bushfire: fires only where the park or site expressly permits them, using milled firewood you bring yourself; do not collect wood in national parks. During local fire bans by Queensland Fire Department, no open fires, not even in fire pits. Check the fire danger rating daily; on “Extreme” and “Catastrophic” days, avoid forest and mountain roads such as the Great Bunya Drive.
- Apps and sources: WikiCamps and CamperMate for sites, water and dump points; QPWS Park Alerts and QLDTraffic for closures, flooding and fires. Mobile reception in the Bunya Mountains is unreliable – save maps offline and download booking confirmations beforehand.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump points: the Somerset region runs several dump points and water points along the Brisbane Valley Highway, and South Burnett Regional Council has them in Benarkin, Murgon and Nanango (Tipperary Flat), among others. At the Bjelke-Petersen Dam for guests only. There is no waste disposal in the national parks – never empty cassettes into pit toilets or hybrid toilets.
- Water: at Crows Nest Falls, Dandabah and Burtons Well, water must be treated or boiled before drinking. Drive into the parks with a full fresh-water tank; in dry spells, water also gets scarcer in the towns.
- Gas: Australian bottles today mostly have an LCC27 valve, older ones a POL fitting. Swaps and refills at petrol stations and hardware stores in Kingaroy and Nanango, and in the Brisbane Valley in Esk and Fernvale; European bottles are not refilled. In the Bunya Mountains nights get cool even in spring – heating needs gas.
- Fuel: distances are short, but according to QPWS there is no fuel in the Bunya Mountains and no petrol station at the reservoirs. Fill up before the climb in Crows Nest, Kingaroy, Nanango or Dalby; in the Brisbane Valley in Fernvale, Lowood, Esk or Toogoolawah.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Driving on the left: roundabouts are driven clockwise, and traffic already on the roundabout, coming from the right, has right of way. When turning right you cross oncoming traffic – a typical source of mistakes, especially after the first day of driving.
- Speed limits in Queensland: 50 km/h in built-up areas, 100 km/h outside them unless signed otherwise; 40 km/h in school zones at the times shown. On the Great Bunya Drive and the Esk–Hampton Road the speed limit is often too fast. Blood alcohol limit 0.05, phone use while driving only in a fixed cradle – cameras detect offences.
- Toll roads: several motorways, tunnels and bridges in Greater Brisbane are tolled and charged electronically only (in Queensland via Linkt); without a tag you must pay for the trip within three days. With a rental camper, find out beforehand how tolls are passed on. There are no tolls on the rest of the route.
- Mountain roads: all three access roads into the Bunya Mountains are steep, narrow and winding and, according to the transport authority, unsuitable for long or heavy vehicles; QPWS urges caution with caravans, large motorhomes and buses. The Maidenwell access has around 3 km of gravel; the northern access via Kumbia is sealed and the least steep. The Esk–Hampton Road has short sections with gradients over 10 %. Use a low gear downhill and use pull-over bays to let queues behind you pass.
- Animals: kangaroos and wallabies mainly at dusk and at night, in the Bunya Mountains also on the road during the day; cattle at unfenced cattle grids, koalas and lizards on forest roads. Don't drive at night, and brake rather than swerve for animals on the road.
- Heat and weather: in the South Burnett, summer days over 35 °C are not unusual, along with thunderstorms bringing hail and heavy rain. Never drive through flooded roads or fords (“If it’s flooded, forget it”). Start walks early in the morning and carry plenty of water.
- Rental campers and insurance: many contracts exclude unsealed roads – even short gravel access roads such as the one to Crows Nest Falls campground may be relevant; damage to the underbody, glass and tyres is then often not covered. Clarify permitted routes in writing beforehand.
- Biosecurity: parts of the Brisbane Valley lie within the biosecurity zones for red imported fire ants; move soil, mulch, hay and potted plants only in line with the current rules, ideally not at all. Buy firewood close to your site.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Water filter or purification tablets: at all national park campgrounds on this route, water must be treated before drinking.
- Warm layer and beanie: on the Bunya ridge at around 1,000 m, nights are noticeably cooler than in the valley, with a risk of frost in winter.
- Bike with wide tyres plus rear rack: the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail is mostly unsealed and runs alongside the route for many kilometres.
- Long trousers, gaiters and insect repellent: against ticks, leeches after rain and stinging trees along the rainforest tracks.
- Bundle of milled firewood or a gas stove: wood may not be collected in the national park, and open fires are banned at Dandabah.
- Collapsible water container (10–20 l): the council sites in the South Burnett usually have water but no power, and there are no supplies on the ridge.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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