In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
Around 480 kilometres from Bayreuth via the Ochsenkopf, the rock labyrinth and the Höllental to the brick bridges and music villages of the Vogtland: an upland loop along the former border country, where every day starts in a different forest.
The spirit of the route
The Fichtelgebirge smells of resin, wet granite and woodsmoke. The roads wind through dark spruce forests, around moors and reservoirs, and behind every hilltop woolsack rocks appear, as if someone had stacked cushions made of stone. Further north the Franconian Forest becomes narrower and steeper: slate roofs, rafting streams, castle ruins above deeply cut valleys. Then the landscape tips into the gentle Vogtland, where railway bridges made of millions of bricks stand over the valleys and violins are still being glued in the workshops of the Musikwinkel. In between runs the strip of the former inner-German border, today a ribbon of nature with a watchtower and a museum. From the sliding door you see raised bogs in the morning mist, porcelain-factory chimneys and spa parks with promenade halls. The stages are short, the motorhome sites small and often by thermal baths or lakes, and the rhythm is that of a hiking week: walk in the morning, drive at midday, bathe in the evening.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Bayreuth to Bischofsgrün (Ochsenkopf) (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Bayreuth north-east into the valley of the White Main and up to Bad Berneck, which huddles tightly into the Ölschnitz valley. From there on the B303 through forest bends towards the Fichtelgebirge, climbing steadily to Bischofsgrün at around 680 m at the northern foot of the Ochsenkopf. A short stage, just under an hour of pure driving time; the road through Bad Berneck is narrow, and parking in the centre with large vehicles is difficult.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Bad Berneck: spa park and dendrological garden in the Ölschnitz valley, above them the ruins of Hohenberneck and the Walpotenburg – a short circular trail links the two.
- Valley of the White Main between Bad Berneck and Bischofsgrün with trails along the stream, often misty and quiet in late summer.
- Ochsenkopf (1,024 m): take the cable car from Bischofsgrün or walk up to the summit with the Asenturm tower and views over the Fichtelgebirge, the Steinwald and, when the air is clear, as far as the Egerland.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Municipal motorhome site in Bischofsgrün with electricity, fresh water and waste disposal; as a climatic health resort, the municipality charges a visitor's tax. Alternatively the small motorhome site in Bad Berneck. If you still want to see Bayreuth, use the site at the Lohengrin Therme there beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Hikers' car parks in the Naturpark Fichtelgebirge are for parking, not camping. One night without camping behaviour is generally tolerated on public car parks in Germany, but many municipalities in the Fichtelgebirge have signposted overnight bans on day-trip car parks. Forest tracks are closed to motor vehicles.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up and shop in Bayreuth before you leave – large supermarkets and cheap filling stations are thinner on the ground in the Fichtelgebirge. During the festival season in high summer the Bayreuth motorhome sites are very busy; in that case drive straight through.
2Stage 2: Bischofsgrün to Weißenstadt (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Over the saddle near Karches between the Ochsenkopf and the Schneeberg to Fichtelberg and the Fichtelsee, a detour to the south side of the Ochsenkopf at Fleckl, then back via Fichtelberg to the B303 and on minor roads around the eastern flank of the Schneeberg to Weißenstadt. Well-built, winding upland roads with timber lorries; just under an hour of driving, the rest is hiking.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Fichtelsee: the small reservoir between the Ochsenkopf and the Schneeberg with a circular trail and a boardwalk through the Fichtelseemoor – early in the morning with haze over the water.
- Schneeberg (1,051 m), the highest mountain in Franconia: on foot along forest tracks to the Backöfele lookout tower on the summit rocks; the access road to the summit is closed to private vehicles.
- Weißenstadter See with a lakeshore trail and views of the Schneeberg ridge; a few kilometres west, the Eger rises on a wooded slope.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Campingplatz Weißenstadt am See, close to the lakeshore with electricity and sanitary facilities. Alternatively the motorhome site at the Thermenresort Siebenquell on the lakeshore, with electricity, fresh water and waste disposal. At the Fichtelsee there is Camping Fichtelsee, good for a night in the forest.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Fichtelseemoor and large parts of the summit areas are nature reserves: stay on the paths, no fires. At the Ochsenkopf Talstation Süd near Fleckl there is a paid motorhome site in the cable car car park – the legal option for spending the night on the mountain. Observe the signs in force.
- Insider tip for campers
- For the Schneeberg, start from Weißenstadt or from the hikers' car park on the road near Karches; the car parks at the trailheads are narrow and fill up early at weekends – with long vehicles be there before 10 am. The Siebenquell thermal baths are a good option after the hike.
3Stage 3: Weißenstadt to Selb (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- East across rolling country with fields and islands of spruce to Wunsiedel and the Luisenburg on the edge of town, then via Thierstein into the flatter Selb area. The roads are wide and quiet; pure driving time under an hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Luisenburg-Felsenlabyrinth: a path through tumbled granite blocks, with ladders, stairs and narrow crevices – open seasonally, admission charged. Next door is the open-air stage of the Luisenburg Festival.
- Wunsiedel: district town with the Fichtelgebirgsmuseum, the birthplace of Jean Paul and a compact old town.
- Selb: the Porzellanikon in the former Rosenthal factory halls, the porcelain fountain and the “Porzellangässchen” (porcelain lane) in the town centre; in nearby Hohenberg an der Eger, the second Porzellanikon site is devoted to table culture.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Wohnmobilstellplatz Selb on Papiermühlweg, close to town with electricity, fresh water and waste disposal. Wunsiedel has a small motorhome car park, and Hohenberg an der Eger has a motorhome site at the Wiesenfestplatz with a view of the castle.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The large car park at the Luisenburg is primarily a festival and visitor car park; motorhome site guides also list it for overnight stays in motorhomes for a parking fee, but according to user reports only with a festival ticket during the festival season – check the signs at the ticket machine and, if in doubt, move on to a motorhome site. In the town itself, only park in designated spaces.
- Insider tip for campers
- The rock labyrinth is not barrier-free, dogs and pushchairs struggle to get through, and the granite is slippery when wet. Factory outlets of the porcelain brands in Selb are worth a visit for porcelain camping crockery with minor flaws.
4Stage 4: Selb to Lichtenberg (Höllental) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- Via Rehau to Hof an der Saale, then west into the Franconian Forest to Lichtenberg. Between Hof and Lichtenberg the valleys get deeper and the roads more winding; the access roads into the Höllental itself are narrow. A good hour of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Hof: the Untreusee on the edge of town with a bathing beach and lakeside path, the Theresienstein landscape park with its botanical garden, and a bratwurst from the charcoal grill at the stall in the old town.
- Höllental: the gorge of the Selbitz between Hölle and Blechschmidtenhammer with rock faces, the Teufelssteg footbridge and the Hirschsprung viewpoint rock – around two hours on foot along both sides of the valley.
- Lichtenberg: castle ruin above the valley and Haus Marteau, the former villa of the violinist Henri Marteau, today a music meeting centre.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Höllental Camping on the edge of the Höllental near Lichtenberg, small and close to nature with sanitary facilities and electricity. Alternatives: the large motorhome site at the thermal baths in Bad Steben, a few kilometres further on, or Campingplatz Auensee near Joditz between Hof and Lichtenberg.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Höllental is a nature reserve; the car parks in Hölle and at Blechschmidtenhammer are hikers' car parks, overnight stays there are not welcome and the access roads are tight for large vehicles. A few kilometres north, the Green Belt runs along the former border – also a protected area, paths only.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Hof there is a motorhome site with electricity at the Untreusee, close to the lakeshore; check facilities and waste disposal on site. For the Höllental, plan a one-way hike and return to your vehicle by bike or taxi – driving the motorhome back and forth between the ends of the valley takes a lot of time because of the narrow roads.
5Stage 5: Lichtenberg to Kronach (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- Via Bad Steben and Geroldsgrün straight across the Franconian Forest, over the plateaus and down into the Rodach valley, via Steinwiesen to Kronach. Lots of bends, short climbs, narrow village through-roads lined with slate houses; a good hour of driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Festung Rosenberg above Kronach: one of the great preserved fortresses in Germany, with bastions, casemates and museum rooms.
- Kronach's upper town: town wall, half-timbering and the birthplace of Lucas Cranach the Elder.
- Timber rafting in the Rodach and Wilde Rodach area: Wallenfels and Steinwiesen were rafting villages, and the rafting museum in Unterrodach tells how timber from the Franconian Forest floated all the way to Holland.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Wohnmobilstellplatz Hammermühle on the southern edge of Kronach, a good 15-minute walk to the old town, with electricity, fresh water and waste disposal. Quieter in the countryside: Campingplatz Wallenfels or the motorhome site in Steinwiesen.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Overnight stays are not intended at the car park below the fortress, and the lanes of the upper town are unsuitable for motorhomes. In the Franconian Forest, as in the Fichtelgebirge, forest and meadow tracks are off-limits to motor vehicles.
- Insider tip for campers
- Walk up to the fortress from the motorhome site through the old town rather than driving the steep access roads. In the Franconian Forest, filling stations are mostly found only in the larger towns – top up before Steinwiesen.
6Stage 6: Kronach to Plauen (approx. 115 km)
- The drive
- On the B85 up the valley alongside the embankment of the Frankenwaldbahn railway to Ludwigsstadt, then across the former border into Thuringia, via Bad Lobenstein and Hirschberg an der Saale to Mödlareuth and on to Plauen. The longest stage, around two and a half hours of driving; here the uplands give way to broad rolling hills.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ludwigsstadt: slate museum on quarrying and the roofing craft of the Franconian Forest; in the district of Lauenstein, Burg Lauenstein high above the Loquitz valley.
- Mödlareuth: the village once divided by a wall, with the German-German Museum, a preserved section of wall, a watchtower and border installations in the open-air area.
- Plauen: the lace museum and show embroidery workshop on Plauen lace, the old town hall and the Friedensbrücke over the White Elster.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Municipal motorhome site in Plauen on Gerberstraße, in town with electricity, water and waste disposal, within walking distance of the centre. If you don't want to stay in town, drive straight on to the Talsperre Pöhl (stage 7).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Saxony has the same nationwide rules as Bavaria: one overnight stay to restore your fitness to drive on public car parks is generally possible without camping behaviour, as long as no ban is signposted. Do not stay overnight at the museum car park in Mödlareuth.
- Insider tip for campers
- Ludwigsstadt has only a few large parking areas in the centre; at Burg Lauenstein parking space is limited and the access road is steep – with long vehicles park below and walk. The B85 is a diversion route for lorries; in icy conditions in the Franconian Forest, set off early.
7Stage 7: Plauen to Talsperre Pöhl (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- A small bridge loop: north out of Plauen into the Elster valley to Jocketa and the Elstertalbrücke, on to Netzschkau and the Göltzschtalbrücke, and back to the Talsperre Pöhl. Minor roads with steep hillside sections down to the valley floors; just under an hour of driving, but a day with hikes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Göltzschtalbrücke near Netzschkau: the largest brick bridge in the world, around 78 m high and a good 570 m long, with viewpoints on both sides of the valley and paths down in the valley.
- Elstertalbrücke near Jocketa, its smaller sister from the same period; the Vogtland Panorama Weg links Netzschkau and Jocketa through the Elster and Trieb valleys.
- Talsperre Pöhl: a dam wall you can walk across, bathing spots and a passenger boat on the “Vogtland Sea”.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Campingplatz Gunzenberg at the Talsperre Pöhl with lake views, electricity and sanitary facilities; next to it the motorhome site at the Gunzenberg for a shorter night, with fresh water and waste disposal. In summer both are busy at weekends.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the bridges the car parks are visitor car parks for the day, not places to spend the night; in Netzschkau there is a small, basic motorhome site without electricity on Brückenstraße if you want to see the bridge in the evening light. The reservoir and its surroundings lie within the “Talsperre Pöhl” landscape protection area; park only in designated areas.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Göltzschtalbrücke is most impressive from below in the valley – walk down from the car park. Valley roads into the Elster valley are partly narrow and steep; with large vehicles stay on the main roads and continue on foot.
8Stage 8: Talsperre Pöhl to Klingenthal (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- Via Plauen and Oelsnitz up the Elster valley to Bad Elster and Bad Brambach in the corner where the borders meet the Czech Republic, then over the heights into the Musikwinkel to Markneukirchen and through forests to Klingenthal. Rolling hills, towards the end uplands with bends and climbs; around two hours of driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Bad Elster: state spa with spa park, Albert Bad and König Albert Theater, promenade hall and springs; the Soletherme brine baths are also open to passing visitors.
- Bad Brambach: radon spa with spa park and pump room, a quiet border village between meadows and forest.
- Markneukirchen: the musical instrument museum in the Paulusschlössel and the workshops of the Musikwinkel, where violins, guitars and brass instruments are made; in Klingenthal, the Vogtland Arena with its ski jump on the Schwarzberg.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Campingplatz Klingenthal, on the edge of town in the forest, with electricity and sanitary facilities. Along the way: Vogtlandcamping near Markneukirchen, the motorhome site at the outdoor pool in Bad Brambach or a motorhome site in Bad Elster (note the visitor's tax).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the spa towns parking in the spa zone is regulated and overnight stays on spa car parks are mostly prohibited. From Klingenthal onwards the Ore Mountains begin, with the Naturpark Erzgebirge/Vogtland: here too, only on public car parks without a ban and without camping behaviour.
- Insider tip for campers
- Between Bad Elster and Bad Brambach the Czech border is within sight; fuel and LPG are often a little cheaper there. In Klingenthal and Markneukirchen, workshop visits to instrument makers are usually by appointment – ask in advance.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Germany a motorhome on public roads and car parks counts as a parked vehicle if it is only there to “restore fitness to drive” – in practice one night, without camping behaviour (no chairs, tables, awning, jacks or levelling ramps, no grey water on the ground). If you stay several nights or set up camp, you are camping – and that is not permitted outside campsites and motorhome sites. This applies equally in Bavaria and Saxony.
- Bavaria and Saxony prohibit, in their forest and nature conservation laws, driving and parking motor vehicles in the forest and the open countryside outside roads and car parks approved for that purpose. Nature reserves such as the Fichtelseemoor or the Höllental are accessible only on foot, on paths. Signs banning overnight stays or motorhomes at day-trip car parks take precedence; fines are set by municipalities and districts.
- The Fichtelgebirge, Frankenwald and Erzgebirge/Vogtland nature parks are not restricted areas, but their hikers' car parks are for day parking. The Green Belt along the former inner-German border is a protected area. Additional restrictions apply when forest fire warning levels are in force.
- The network of small municipal motorhome sites at thermal baths, lakes and outdoor pools is dense, but the sites often have only a few pitches. Useful: park4night, Campercontact and printed motorhome site guides; check details of fees and facilities on site.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points for fresh water and waste disposal are found at many municipal motorhome sites as well as at thermal baths and campsites; some run on coins or tokens, others on cards. Fresh water is usually sold in portions for a fee, and in winter taps are often turned off.
- Only empty grey water at the service point, and chemical toilets only into the marked inlets – not into drains or public toilets. Formaldehyde-based toilet additives are unwelcome at many service points.
- Tap water is drinking water; at fountains, springs and cemeteries look out for “Kein Trinkwasser” (not drinking water) signs. The medicinal springs in Bad Elster and Bad Brambach are spa remedies, not water for your tank.
- Gas: grey 11 kg and 5 kg exchange cylinders are available at filling stations, DIY stores and campsites; refillable tank cylinders can be filled at autogas (LPG) stations with an ACME connector. Foreign exchange cylinders are not exchanged. If you fill up with autogas in the Czech Republic: LPG is widespread there; check the connector system and filling rules for refillable cylinders in advance; German exchange cylinders are not exchanged there.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t drive like cars – 50 km/h in built-up areas, 100 km/h outside them, no general limit on the Autobahn (recommended speed 130 km/h). Motorhomes over 3.5 t up to 7.5 t: 80 km/h outside built-up areas, 100 km/h on the Autobahn; over 7.5 t: 60 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the Autobahn. Car-and-caravan combinations: 80 km/h, 100 km/h on the Autobahn only with Tempo 100 approval.
- Low-emission zones: as things stand, no low-emission zone is known on this route – neither in Bayreuth, Hof nor Plauen. If you arrive via larger cities (such as Leipzig), check with the Umweltbundesamt (Federal Environment Agency) in advance.
- Tolls: there is no vignette for cars and motorhomes in Germany; the HGV toll applies to goods traffic over 3.5 t, and according to the operator Toll Collect motorhomes are generally not subject to it. For detours into the Czech Republic (Cheb, Aš, Kraslice), an electronic vignette is required on motorways and expressways for vehicles up to 3.5 t, above that the electronic toll system applies; the Czech Republic also has a 0.0 alcohol limit and daytime running lights.
- Sunday and holiday driving bans apply to lorries over 7.5 t; vehicles registered as motorhomes are generally not affected, but those registered as lorries are – check your registration document.
- Winter: the Fichtelgebirge, the Franconian Forest and the upper Vogtland get a lot of snow; in ice, snow and slush, tyres with the Alpine symbol are compulsory, plain M+S tyres are no longer sufficient. From October to April expect snow at altitudes of around 700–1,000 m and carry snow chains.
- Rear racks: a warning plate is not required in Germany, but the number plate and rear lights must remain visible. Alcohol: 0.5 per mille, 0.0 for new drivers and under-21s. Mobile phones at the wheel only with a hands-free system.
- Visitor's tax: spa towns and climatic health resorts such as Bad Berneck, Bischofsgrün, Bad Steben, Bad Elster and Bad Brambach charge a visitor's tax per person per night, which is usually collected directly at the motorhome site or campsite.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Sturdy hiking boots with grippy soles – the rock labyrinth, the Schneeberg and the Höllental lead over wet granite, roots and steps.
- Swimwear and bathrobe: Siebenquell, Bad Steben and the Soletherme in Bad Elster are right next to motorhome sites.
- Small change and euro coins for service-point machines and electricity posts at small municipal motorhome sites.
- Levelling ramps, level 2–3 – many motorhome sites in the Fichtelgebirge and the Franconian Forest are on slopes.
- ID card or passport and a Czech e-vignette bought in advance, if you make a detour into Bohemia via Selb, Bad Brambach or Klingenthal.
- Snow chains and warm layers from October: snow can come early on the Ochsenkopf and around Klingenthal.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
