In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
Around 1,800 km through Western Australia's red north: from Exmouth via Tom Price into the gorges of Karijini, past the springs of Millstream to the rock engravings of Murujuga and via Port Hedland to the endless Eighty Mile Beach.
The spirit of the route
The Pilbara is a land of rust red and spinifex yellow. Beyond Nanutarra the coast disappears, the road runs dead straight across plains where termite mounds stand like gravestones, and on the horizon the Hamersley Ranges rise out of the heat haze. Then the earth splits open: in Karijini you look down through hundreds of thousands of years into banded gorges, with green pools at the bottom, cold as mountain lakes. In the evening you see ghost gums glowing from the sliding door, and at night a sky without any artificial light. Ore trains more than two kilometres long roll through the silence, road trains thunder past, and on the coast people carved kangaroos and faces into the rock of Murujuga thousands of years ago. This route demands respect for heat, distances and water – and rewards you with a vastness you won't forget.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Exmouth to Nanutarra Roadhouse (approx. 270 km)
- The drive
- The Coral Coast with Ningaloo and Cape Range is covered in the CampingSpirit travel guide to the Coral Coast; here the drive north begins. From Exmouth take the Minilya-Exmouth Road south, then the Burkett Road east to the North West Coastal Highway and follow it north to the Ashburton River. Sealed throughout, flat and largely straight, with hardly any settlements. Around 3 hours' driving time; set off early so you arrive before dusk.
- Highlights & must-sees
- A last look at the Exmouth Gulf and the termite-mound plains along the Burkett Road.
- Ashburton River at the bridge near Nanutarra: after the wet season often with standing waterholes and birdlife along the banks.
- Evening light over the spinifex – this is where you first notice how empty the Pilbara is.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Nanutarra Roadhouse on the North West Coastal Highway: fuel, shop, powered and unpowered sites, showers and toilets. Not a town in the proper sense but a supply point; check facilities and prices by phone in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Main Roads WA designates rest areas on the North West Coastal Highway where short overnight stays are permitted if signposted (usually up to 24 hours); the 24-hour Barradale rest area on the Yannarie River near the Burkett Road turn-off (drop toilets, dump point) is widely used. Without such a sign: rest only, no overnight stay. Away from the road, almost all the land is cattle station lease – don't park there without permission.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Exmouth, fill up, stock up on water and food and use the dump point: there is no reliable fuel stop between Exmouth and Nanutarra. Take enough fruit and vegetables for a few days – Tom Price is the next town with a supermarket.
2Stage 2: Nanutarra Roadhouse to Tom Price via Paraburdoo (approx. 330 km)
- The drive
- From the roadhouse take the Nanutarra-Munjina Road north-east inland, later the turn-off to Paraburdoo, and continue on a sealed road to Tom Price. Long straights, shallow river crossings (floodways) and the first ridges of the Hamersley Ranges. Around 4 hours' driving time; many road trains and ore trucks use this stretch.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Paraburdoo: mining town at the foot of the Hamersley Ranges, a short stop for a break and shopping.
- Mount Nameless (Jarndunmunha) near Tom Price, just over 1,100 m: summit trail from the edge of town or a 4WD track, with views over town, mine and ranges from the top – best at sunset.
- Lookouts over the open-cut mines around Tom Price; mine tours are offered at the Visitor Centre, ask there about the programme and season.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Tom Price Tourist Park at the foot of Mount Nameless: powered sites, amenities, pool and water/waste facilities, starting point for the summit trail. Book ahead in the season (June to August), as Karijini travellers and mine workers fill the sites.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Paraburdoo and Tom Price are mining towns; sleeping in your vehicle within the town area outside the caravan park is not permitted. Mining land, the ore railway and private haul roads are off-limits – even for one night.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Tom Price, fill up, shop and check your gas: there is no fuel in Karijini and only a small selection at the Eco Retreat. The Visitor Centre in Tom Price has information on the Rio Tinto rail access road to Millstream and Karratha (permit required) and on current closures in the national park.
3Stage 3: Tom Price to Karijini Eco Retreat (Weano area) (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- Take Karijini Drive east into the national park, past Mount Bruce, then Banjima Drive to the western section with the Eco Retreat and the Weano and Hancock gorges. The access roads between Weano, the Eco Retreat and Dales Gorge, including Banjima Drive North, are now sealed for around 41 km and passable in regular campers; gravel remains on, among others, Kalamina Road (around 6 km), the access to the walking trails at Mount Bruce (around 3 km) and the road to Hamersley Gorge. Just over 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Mount Bruce (Punurrunha), Western Australia's second-highest mountain: short walk to Marandoo View; the summit trail is long and only sensible early in the morning in cool weather.
- Joffre Falls and Joffre Lookout: a semicircular rock amphitheatre, with a waterfall after rain.
- Knox Gorge with a new viewing platform projecting over the edge.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Karijini Eco Retreat in the western part of the park: unpowered sites and safari tents, amenities, restaurant; check generator rules, season and prices with the operator and book early in peak season. It is the only accommodation within walking distance of the Weano area.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Karijini National Park overnight stays are only allowed on the campgrounds – car parks at gorges and lookouts are off-limits at night, and rangers patrol. You need a WA park pass for the park; check fees in advance with the parks and wildlife service (DBCA).
- Insider tip for campers
- Start the gorges early in the morning before the rocks heat up – above 35 °C the climbs out of the gorges become an ordeal. Before every walk check the DBCA Park Alerts: individual sections, lookouts and access roads are closed because of construction work, storms or rockfall.
4Stage 4: Weano and Hancock Gorge to Dales Gorge (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- In the morning into the gorges of the western section, in the afternoon along the now sealed connection east to the Dales area near the Karijini Visitor Centre. Around 1 hour's driving; the day belongs to your feet.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Oxer Lookout: view of the junction of Weano, Red, Hancock and Joffre Gorge – a few metres further on is Junction Pool Lookout, both short and easy.
- Hancock Gorge with Spider Walk and Kermit’s Pool: steep ladders, wading up to your hips and straddling across slippery rock (Class 5) – not for sandals. Weano Gorge with a narrow passage; Handrail Pool was recently closed, check the current status.
- In the evening at Dales: Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool (Jubura), a place of significance to the Banyjima, Yinhawangka and Kurrama – keep quiet and follow the information signs.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: DBCA's Dales Campground near Dales Gorge: book via Park Stay WA, separate areas for generator and non-generator campers, basic toilets, gas barbecues; no power, drinking water not reliable – bring enough. Fortescue Falls and the gorge rim are within walking distance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping spots in the park. If you can't get a site at Dales, fall back on the Eco Retreat or, outside the park, on Auski or the rest area at Munjina Gorge.
- Insider tip for campers
- Gorge safety: the trails are graded to the Australian standard; areas beyond the signposted limits (Class 6) are only accessible with climbing and abseiling equipment and licensed tour operators – never climb over barriers. If there are thunderstorms in the area, get out of the gorge immediately: flash floods come without warning. Take non-slip shoes, a head torch and water, and tell someone where you are; there is hardly any mobile coverage.
5Stage 5: Dales Gorge to Millstream (Millstream Chichester National Park) (approx. 330 km)
- The drive
- In the morning, Circular Pool or the Gorge Rim Walk, then to the Great Northern Highway and north to Auski Roadhouse (Munjina). From there take the Nanutarra-Munjina Road west to Hamersley Gorge – this way involves several dozen kilometres of gravel – and continue north on the unsealed old Roebourne-Wittenoom Road to the Rio Tinto railway crossing near Wallyinya Pool; only from there is the Manuwarra Red Dog Highway (formerly the Karratha–Tom Price Road) sealed to Millstream and the coast. The track has corrugations, creek crossings and crests; the upgrade of this roughly 110 km missing link (Stage 4, on a new alignment along the railway) is still in planning. With breaks, a long day of 6 to 7 hours. Alternative with a permit: from Tom Price via the Rio Tinto rail access road.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Munjina Gorge Lookout on the Great Northern Highway near Auski: view into a deep gorge right next to the road.
- Hamersley Gorge in the north-west of Karijini: folded, twisted rock layers and the Spa Pool – a short but steep descent.
- Millstream: palms, water lilies and springs in the middle of the desert, Jirndawurrunha Pool at the old homestead with visitor information.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Miliyanha Campground near the Millstream Homestead: basic toilets, barbecue areas, no power, generators only from 8 am to 8 pm; book online via Park Stay WA. Alternatively Stargazers Campground near the Fortescue River, also basic and bookable. No reliable drinking water – bring water, food and fuel.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Wittenoom on the Nanutarra-Munjina Road has been officially degazetted because of asbestos contamination; do not enter the town or Wittenoom Gorge, do not stop or camp there, keep windows closed. In Millstream Chichester National Park stay overnight only on the campgrounds; along the road, Main Roads rest areas are the only legal alternatives.
- Insider tip for campers
- Be sure to fill up at Auski Roadhouse – there is no more fuel until Karratha. Many campervan rental agreements exclude unsealed roads; in that case the only option is the detour via the Great Northern Highway to Port Hedland and along the coast to Karratha. The Rio Tinto rail access road is private: the free permit (valid for 30 days, for each driver individually) is issued after a short induction with videos and a test, online or at the Visitor Centres in Tom Price and Karratha; check conditions and rules before driving.
6Stage 6: Millstream to Karratha and Dampier (Murujuga) (approx. 180 km)
- The drive
- In the morning, Python Pool on the edge of the Chichester Range, then take the sealed Manuwarra Red Dog Highway north to the coast and Karratha; continue on the Dampier Highway to Dampier and onto the Burrup Peninsula. Around 2.5 hours' driving time, with a lot of industrial traffic in the industrial area near Dampier.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Python Pool: deep rock pool beneath a cliff, start of the Camel Trail (around 2.4 km to Cameleers Lookout, the whole trail around 16 km return, not recommended in summer); after long dry spells the water is often stagnant.
- Deep Reach Pool on the Fortescue River, a sacred site for the Yindjibarndi – swim and paddle with respect.
- Murujuga National Park: the Ngajarli Trail leads along a boardwalk to hundreds of rock engravings; the Murujuga Cultural Landscape has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2025.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: In Karratha there are several caravan parks with power, amenities and water/waste facilities, such as Discovery Parks – Pilbara, Karratha, and AAOK Karratha Caravan Park; in the season sites are scarce because of workers and travellers, so book early. In Dampier, Dampier Caravan Park is on the Esplanade: maximum 3 nights, online booking only.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Camping is not allowed in Murujuga National Park, including on the beaches of the Burrup Peninsula. The City of Karratha runs the basic coastal camps Cleaverville and Gnoorea Point (40 Mile): peak season 1 May to 30 September with online booking, fee paid in advance and a maximum of 28 nights; from October to April a maximum of 3 nights; no drinking water, the toilets are for day visitors only, so your own chemical toilet is compulsory. The camps are closed when a cyclone warning is issued. Hearson Cove, Balla Balla and all other public land, car parks and town areas are closed to camping; on-the-spot fines of AUD 100 apply.
- Insider tip for campers
- Do not touch, step on or trace the rock engravings – many motifs are thousands of years old and already threatened by industrial emissions. Karratha is the best place to restock: large supermarket, LPG, dump point, tyre service.
7Stage 7: Karratha to Port Hedland via Cossack and Point Samson (approx. 260 km)
- The drive
- Take the North West Coastal Highway east to Roebourne, detour to the coast to Cossack and Point Samson, then back on the highway and across flat coastal plains with salt lakes to Port Hedland. Sealed, many road trains, just over 3 hours' driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Roebourne: the oldest town in the Pilbara, with 19th-century stone buildings and an Aboriginal art centre.
- Cossack: abandoned pearling port with restored stone buildings on the estuary of the Harding River, path to a lookout over the mangroves.
- Point Samson and Honeymoon Cove: snorkelling on reefs straight from the beach, only in calm seas and with an eye on the tides.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Port Hedland has caravan parks with power, amenities and water/waste facilities, including one at Cooke Point; more parks in South Hedland. If you want to stay in Point Samson already: there are Samson Beach Caravan Park and The Cove Caravan Park. Book in good time; the town is a mining and port hub with many long-term guests.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Between Roebourne and Port Hedland there are Main Roads rest areas on the highway where overnight stays are only allowed where signposted. Free camping is not provided for in Cossack and Point Samson; in Port Hedland itself it is enforced.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Port Hedland, watch the huge ore carriers from the lookout at the port, and on some evenings around the full moon experience the “Staircase to the Moon” over the mudflats – dates from the Visitor Centre. Between October and March flatback turtles nest on Cemetery Beach: keep your distance and don't shine torches on the animals.
8Stage 8: Port Hedland to Eighty Mile Beach (approx. 260 km)
- The drive
- Take the Great Northern Highway east and north-east, past the De Grey River and Pardoo Roadhouse, then a gravel access road of around 10 km to the coast. Flat, empty country with spinifex and pindan soil; around 3 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- De Grey River: wide riverbed with eucalypts, a popular spot for breaks and rest stops.
- Eighty Mile Beach: around 220 km of beach without development, hundreds of metres of tidal flats at low tide, shells in abundance.
- Migratory birds: the Ramsar site is one of the most important stopover areas for shorebirds in Australia – bring binoculars and don't disturb the flocks.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park behind the dunes at the end of the access road: powered and unpowered sites, amenities, small shop, limited fuel; check season and bookings in advance, it is busy in the winter months. From here the journey continues to Broome and the Kimberley.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The rest area on the De Grey River is one of the well-known overnight spots on the Great Northern Highway; observe the time limits and signage, fires only where permitted. Camping on the beach itself outside the caravan park is not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up at Pardoo Roadhouse – the next fuel stop towards Broome is Sandfire. Beach driving only with 4WD, lowered tyre pressure and a tide chart: the tide comes in fast and far here.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Western Australia only allows camping in caravan parks, approved campgrounds and rest areas that Main Roads WA or the local councils expressly designate for it (usually up to 24 hours). Since September 2024 you may stay on private land for up to five days with the owner's permission; unauthorised camping can cost up to AUD 200 (in the City of Karratha an on-the-spot fine of AUD 100); local laws of the Shire of Ashburton, the City of Karratha and the Town of Port Hedland may impose further rules.
- Large parts of the Pilbara are mining lease, station land or Aboriginal land. Haul roads, rail corridors and mine sites are not open country: stopping and staying overnight there is prohibited, and the Rio Tinto rail access road may only be used with a permit.
- In Karijini and Millstream Chichester, only on the campgrounds of the parks and wildlife service (DBCA), which are booked via Park Stay WA; the WA park pass covers entry, not camping fees. Book early in the peak season from June to August.
- Apps and sources: WikiCamps and CamperMate for campgrounds, rest areas, water and dump points; DBCA Park Alerts, the Main Roads WA Travel Map and Emergency WA for closures, fires and storms. Save maps offline – away from towns there is hardly any mobile coverage.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Fuel: Exmouth – Nanutarra around 270 km without a reliable fuel stop, then Paraburdoo and Tom Price; no fuel in Karijini, the next point is Auski Roadhouse. Between Auski and Karratha via Millstream there is nothing. Along the coast: Karratha, Roebourne, Port Hedland, Pardoo Roadhouse and Sandfire. Heat, headwinds and air conditioning increase consumption; never pass a roadhouse with less than half a tank.
- Water: there is no reliable drinking water in Karijini and Millstream; in the heat allow at least 5 litres per person per day plus a reserve for several days. Refill in Tom Price, Karratha and Port Hedland.
- Dump points in Exmouth, Tom Price, Karratha and Port Hedland, none in the parks. Never empty cassettes into bush toilets or drop toilets; take rubbish with you to the next town.
- Gas: Australian cylinders today mostly have an LCC27 valve, older ones a POL fitting. Swaps and refills in Tom Price, Karratha and Port Hedland, not at every roadhouse; European cylinders are not refilled. Have both cylinders full before Karijini.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Drive on the left. Outside built-up areas the general limit in Western Australia is 110 km/h unless otherwise signposted; on gravel, 60 to 80 km/h is realistic. There are no toll roads. Blood alcohol limit 0.05; mobile phone only in a cradle.
- Road trains and ore trucks with several trailers and over 50 m long dominate the Pilbara highways. Only overtake with a very long clear view; when being overtaken, ease off and don't get pushed off to the left; on unsealed roads keep well to the left, lights on, and wait for dust clouds to settle. A UHF radio helps you coordinate with truck drivers.
- Animals: cattle on open station land, kangaroos, emus and feral camels cross especially at dusk and at night – don't drive in the dark.
- Rental campers: many agreements prohibit unsealed roads, including access roads such as the Rio Tinto rail access road or the track to Millstream; underbody, glass and tyre damage is often not insured. The main access roads in Karijini are now sealed. Clarify in writing which routes are permitted.
- Travel season and heat: best May to September; from about October to April temperatures often rise above 40 °C. November to April is cyclone and wet season: floodways and roads are flooded and closed, and gorges may be closed. Don't drive on closed roads and never drive through flowing water – check Main Roads WA and Emergency WA.
- The privately operated Rio Tinto rail access road between Tom Price and the Millstream turn-off may only be used with a valid, free permit; ore trains have right of way, cross level crossings with particular care. Conditions change – check the current status at the Visitor Centre before your trip.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Water containers for at least 40 litres of reserve – there is no reliable drinking water between Tom Price, Karijini and Millstream.
- Non-slip, waterproof hiking shoes or canyoning shoes for Hancock and Weano Gorge: you wade through water and straddle across wet rock.
- Waterproof dry bag for phone, camera and car keys in the gorges.
- UHF radio for coordinating with road train drivers and a personal locator beacon (PLB) for stretches without coverage.
- Head fly net, hat and sun protection – the Pilbara's bush flies are numerous from mid-morning.
- Tyre repair kit, compressor and tyre pressure gauge for gravel sections and beach access roads.
As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
