In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Glasgow along Loch Lomond, across Rannoch Moor and through Glencoe to Fort William, then by ferry from Mallaig to Skye, once around the island and over the Skye Bridge to Eilean Donan Castle: around 635 kilometres, many of them single-track.
The spirit of the route
The West Highlands are no place to hurry. Beyond Glasgow, Loch Lomond moves up against the road, then past Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy Rannoch Moor opens out, a brown expanse of bog pools and heather where everything blurs into grey in the rain and every edge glows in the sun. In Glencoe the walls stand so steeply above the A82 that you find yourself lowering your voice. The road to Mallaig follows silver-sand beaches and the railway line, and the ferry to Skye sails out among seals and cormorants. On the island it is passing places that count, not kilometres: from the open sliding door you will see the Cuillin, the basalt organ pipes of the Trotternish peninsula and lighthouses on the Atlantic. In the evening it smells of peat, wet grass and sea – and, in the summer months, of midge spray.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Glasgow to Ardlui on Loch Lomond (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- From Glasgow take the A82 along the Clyde to Dumbarton, then up the west shore of Loch Lomond via Balloch, Luss and Tarbet to Ardlui. The road is wide as far as Tarbet; after that the A82 becomes narrow and twisty, with lorries and coaches coming the other way, and roadworks and traffic lights along the loch are possible. Just over 2 hours of driving, half a day with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Luss: the village of slate cottages with a pier on Loch Lomond, quietest early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
- Inveruglas, with a viewpoint at the Sloy power station and views across the loch to Ben Lomond.
- Loch Lomond Shores in Balloch at the south end of the loch: a walk by the water and a chance to shop before you carry on.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Beinglas Campsite near Inverarnan at the foot of the West Highland Way walking route: electric hook-up, toilets and showers, and a pub on site. Alternatives are Ardlui Holiday Home Park right at the end of the loch with views of the mountains and, further south, Luss Caravan & Camp Site, Inverbeg Holiday Park and Lomond Woods Holiday Park in Balloch. Book ahead in the school holidays and at weekends.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park, camping management zones requiring a permit apply from 1 March to 30 September; for motorhomes, permits are available at Firkin Point and Inveruglas (West Loch Lomond) and at the Three Lochs Forest Drive (according to the park authority £4.50 per vehicle per night, three nights at most; book online in advance). From 1 October 2026 to 28 February 2027 the permit requirement is suspended. Parking a motorhome overnight at the roadside or in lay-bys on the A82 is unwelcome and is increasingly ruled out with signs (“No overnight parking”). Plan on fixed pitches.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up and shop in Glasgow or Dumbarton: north of Tarbet there is little until Tyndrum. The Glasgow Low Emission Zone (see Practicalities) only affects the city centre, not the approach via the A82. The A82 between Tarbet and Ardlui is tight – don't drive in convoy with coaches, but leave a gap and wait in lay-bys.
2Stage 2: Ardlui to Glencoe (village) (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- Continue on the A82 to Crianlarich and Tyndrum, over Bridge of Orchy and up onto Rannoch Moor (around 340 m), past the Glencoe Mountain Resort and down into Glen Coe. A well-built two-lane road (around 300 m high), open and windy on the moor, with tight bends, rock overhangs and photo stops in the glen. About 1.5 hours of driving, and Glencoe needs the rest of the day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Rannoch Moor with its bog pools beside the road and the Black Mount: most impressive early in the morning or in low light.
- Three Sisters and the Lost Valley (Coire Gabhail): viewpoint car park on the A82, from where a walk leads into the hidden hanging valley (around 3 hours there and back, with a stream crossing).
- Glencoe Visitor Centre (National Trust for Scotland) with an exhibition on the 1692 massacre and short nature trails.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Invercoe Caravan & Camping Park on Loch Leven, Red Squirrel Campsite in the village and the Camping and Caravanning Club site near Glencoe: electric hook-up, toilets and showers, and service points on the larger sites. Alternatively the Kinlochleven Aire Site (a small motorhome area) or Caolasnacon near Kinlochleven. Always reserve in high season.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Glen Coe there is no right to roam for vehicles: the lay-bys on the A82 are meant for day parking, so follow the signs. Overnighting in the roadside lay-bys is practically ruled out by prohibition signs, parking restrictions and the narrow roads. At the Glencoe Visitor Centre (National Trust for Scotland) parking costs around £4 to £6 according to the Trust (free for members), overnight stays are not allowed, and there is hardly any room there for large motorhomes and combinations.
- Insider tip for campers
- Glen Etive (the turning off the A82 just beyond Buachaille Etive Mòr) is a 20-kilometre dead end, single-track, with herds of cattle and few places to turn – unsuitable for large motorhomes, but rewarding for cars and walkers.
3Stage 3: Glencoe to Fort William (Glen Nevis) (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Glencoe via Ballachulish (bridge over Loch Leven) and along Loch Linnhe via Onich to Fort William, then into Glen Nevis. Two-lane, well built, with queues at roadworks. Around half an hour of pure driving time to Fort William, but traffic there can be slow.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Glen Nevis: the access road to the Steall Falls, a walk through the gorge (around 3 hours there and back) with the wire bridge across the river.
- Ben Nevis Visitor Centre as the starting point of the Mountain Track up Britain's highest mountain (only with experience and equipment).
- Neptune’s Staircase at Banavie: the flight of locks on the Caledonian Canal, with a view of Ben Nevis.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Glen Nevis Caravan and Camping Park, large and well equipped, with electric hook-up, toilets and showers, and service points at the entrance to the glen. On Loch Linnhe is the Linnhe Lochside Holiday Park near Corpach with views over the water. Book ahead in high summer; check opening times in October in advance, as some sites close at the end of the season.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Fort William itself overnighting in car parks is expressly unwelcome; the road into Glen Nevis is single-track and narrow, so do not leave the motorhome there overnight. Official options are the campsites and the Nevis Range Campervan Park (check opening and conditions in advance).
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up and shop in Fort William before driving into Glen Nevis, and ideally sort out waste disposal at the campsite – after that comes the thinnest supply zone of the tour. The Jacobite Steam Train runs from Fort William to Mallaig, in season until October; check departure times in advance and reserve tickets. For the drive to Glenfinnan it is better to start early: the car parks at the viaduct are otherwise full.
4Stage 4: Fort William to Mallaig (Road to the Isles) (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- The A830 runs first along the Caledonian Canal, then along Loch Eil and past the Glenfinnan Viaduct to Lochailort. After that it winds over Arisaig and Morar with sea views to the ferry port of Mallaig. Single-track with passing places in stretches, hilly, with side roads leading to sandy beaches between Lochailort and Arisaig. Just over 2 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Glenfinnan Viaduct: the curving railway viaduct known from the Harry Potter films, with a footpath to the viewpoint above the station. The steam train crosses the viaduct on several days a week in season; check times in advance.
- Glenfinnan Monument on Loch Shiel, commemorating 1745 – National Trust for Scotland; the visitor car park is pay-and-display (most recently £5) and not suitable for motorhomes, while the neighbouring community car park has spaces for larger vehicles.
- Silver Sands of Morar and the beaches near Arisaig with a view of Eigg and Rùm.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Camusdarach Campsite near Morar, Sunnyside Croft Touring Site and Invercaimbe Caravan and Campsite near Arisaig, and Silversands Holiday Park near Portnaluchaig: several sites close to the beaches, with facilities (electric hook-up, toilets and showers, service points) that differ greatly – ask in advance. In Mallaig itself there are only a few pitches.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Wild parking on beaches and in lay-bys on the A830 is unwelcome; whether and on what terms motorhomes may stay at Mallaig harbour, ask the harbour authority in advance. A place for the night before the ferry should be booked ahead.
- Insider tip for campers
- The viaduct is a hotspot: when the steam train runs, hundreds of visitors park at the station. The A830 is packed with lorries and fish transporters heading for Mallaig. It is worth filling up in Fort William; fuel is more expensive in Mallaig. Fish and chips at the harbour make a fitting evening stop.
5Stage 5: Mallaig to Sligachan (Skye) (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- Take the CalMac ferry from Mallaig to Armadale (around 30 minutes), then the A851 north through Sleat, onto the A87 at Broadford and on to the Sligachan Hotel at the foot of the Cuillin. On Skye the road is mostly two-lane with single-track sections; the kilometres on land hardly count – the difficulty is the ferry port and the weather.
- Highlights & must-sees
- The Mallaig–Armadale crossing with views of Rùm, Eigg and the Cuillin; often seals and sea eagles on the shore.
- Armadale: Museum of the Isles and gardens, right by the ferry landing.
- Sligachan: the old stone bridge with the Cuillin behind. From here the road leads to the starting point of the Cuillin walks.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Sligachan Campsite right by the hotel beneath the Cuillin, basic, with toilets and showers and electric hook-up (check facilities and opening times in advance). Alternatively Camping Skye near Broadford, with electric hook-up, toilets and showers and service points (check facilities in advance). Book in good time in high summer; towards the end of the season only a few pitches remain open.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Skye the same rules apply as on the mainland: tent camping is allowed under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, but motorhomes are not generally included. Staying overnight in lay-bys and at passing places is forbidden or unwelcome, and signs say so in many places.
- Insider tip for campers
- On this route booking is required according to CalMac (a standby system may apply for motorhomes); vehicle check-in is 20 minutes before departure at the latest. The summer timetable applies until 18 October 2026, with the winter timetable from 19 October; no service is planned from 16 to 18 October 2026. In strong winds crossings are cancelled – allow buffer time and check the operating status before setting off. Alternatives are the Skye Bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh (see stage 8) and the small Glenelg–Kylerhea ferry, which according to the operator runs roughly from April to mid-October, cannot be booked in advance and does not carry large vehicles; for motorhomes it is generally not an option.
6Stage 6: Sligachan to Dunvegan (via Glenbrittle) (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- From Sligachan take the A863 west, then beyond Drynoch the single-track side road to Glenbrittle (just under 15 km, passing places, sheep, gradients), later back and on via Struan to Dunvegan. Because of the side road this stage is slower than the kilometres suggest; with breaks a whole day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Fairy Pools beneath the Black Cuillin: a mountain stream with turquoise pools, around 30 minutes on foot from the car park, wet path.
- Talisker Distillery in Carbost on Loch Harport, tours by booking.
- Glenbrittle beach with a view of the Cuillin peaks and a sandy shore.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Glenbrittle Campsite on the beach, basic, with toilets and showers and electric hook-up on parts of the site, at the end of the side road. In Dunvegan there is Kinloch Campsite and other small sites; the Skye Camping and Caravanning Club site at Loch Greshornish near Edinbane lies on the way north and is suitable for motorhomes (facilities: electric hook-up, toilets and showers, service points).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Overnighting is not provided for at the Fairy Pools car park; the car park (one-way system, around 177 spaces) is pay-and-display (most recently £8 per motorhome per day, payment by card or cash) and is run by the Outdoor Access Trust for Scotland with the local community. The road to Glenbrittle is single-track – you must not park in the passing places, not even during the day. Free standing along the route is hardly possible.
- Insider tip for campers
- Go to the Fairy Pools early (before 9 am) or in the late afternoon, when the car park is empty; from mid-morning queues build up on the side road. There is a separate area for motorhomes, and according to the Trust vehicles up to 8 m long are permitted. Bring boots: the path is muddy and stream crossings are risky in high water. Fill up in Portree or Broadford, not at small farm pumps.
7Stage 7: Dunvegan to Staffin (Trotternish) (approx. 95 km)
- The drive
- From Dunvegan take the A850 and A87 to Uig, then the A855 anticlockwise round the Trotternish peninsula via Kilmuir and Duntulm, past the Quiraing to Staffin. The coast road is two-lane to single-track with passing places and tight bends. Pure driving time around 2.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Dunvegan Castle: seat of Clan MacLeod, gardens on Loch Dunvegan and seal trips.
- Quiraing: the rugged basalt landscape, a walk from the car park at the pass (around 2 to 3 hours).
- Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls: a waterfall plunges over basalt columns into the sea, viewpoint right by the A855.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Staffin Campsite above the bay, basic, with toilets and showers; Uig Bay Campsite is near the ferry port of Uig. Torvaig Campsite near Portree offers electric hook-up and toilets and showers and is the central alternative. Reserve in advance in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Trotternish overnighting is not provided for in the car parks at the Quiraing and at the Old Man of Storr; follow the signs, as checks and fines are possible. Camping bans at passing places and in lay-bys are common.
- Insider tip for campers
- The narrow mountain road at the Quiraing is partly single-track and unsuitable for large motorhomes; the A855 on the east coast is the better choice. Filling stations are few and far between on Skye: fill up in Portree or Broadford.
8Stage 8: Staffin to Eilean Donan (Dornie) (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- From Staffin back south past Kilt Rock and the Old Man of Storr to Portree, then on the A87 to Broadford and Kyleakin, over the Skye Bridge to Kyle of Lochalsh and on along Loch Alsh to Dornie. Well built, partly single-track on Skye, wider beyond the bridge. Just over 2.5 hours of driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Old Man of Storr: the rock pinnacle above the car park on the A855, a walk of around 2 hours there and back.
- Portree: coloured houses on the harbour, shopping and fuel before you leave the island.
- Eilean Donan Castle: the castle on its island in Loch Duich, one of the most photographed sights in Scotland, open to visit inside as a museum (opening times seasonal).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Ardelve Caravan and Camping Park near the castle on Loch Long, with electric hook-up, toilets and showers and supplies; Reraig Caravan Site near Balmacara, Morvich Club Campsite in Kintail or Glenshiel Campsite further south as alternatives. Moyle Park Campsite on Loch Duich is quieter.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Overnighting is not provided for at the Eilean Donan car park. Near Dornie and Kyle there are several lay-bys with overnight bans; follow the signs. Plan on fixed pitches.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Skye Bridge has been toll-free since 2004. At the Old Man of Storr the car park is small and overcrowded, so it is better to come early or later in the day. For the way back: from Dornie the A87 leads back south and east, via Loch Cluanie and Invergarry to Fort William or via the A82 to Inverness. Plockton (around 15 km from Kyle) is a worthwhile detour with a quiet harbour, but narrow roads.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- With the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 and the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, Scotland has an extensive right of access that also covers camping – but expressly not leaving vehicles parked. Motorhomes may not simply stand anywhere; roadside parking is only possible where it is permitted, and overnighting is prohibited by signs in many places. Passing places, entrances and lay-bys on single-track roads are off limits.
- In the Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park, camping management zones requiring a permit apply from 1 March to 30 September (motorhome permits at Firkin Point, Inveruglas and the Three Lochs Forest Drive, three nights at most according to the park authority); in October the permit requirement is suspended. The NC500 barely affects this route, but similar rules and signs (“No overnight parking”, “No motorhomes”) are also found in Glencoe, Fort William and on Skye. Fines and towing are possible.
- You can stay overnight legally on campsites, on small Camping and Caravanning Club and Caravan and Motorhome Club sites (some members only), on farm sites and at the few aires such as Kinlochleven, as well as with Forestry and Land Scotland (“Stay the Night”, 1 April to 31 October, only for vehicles with their own toilet, e.g. at Loch Lomond). Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact, Brit Stops, and the clubs' websites. Check facilities and opening times in advance; in October many sites close.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Waste disposal: waste water and cassette (Elsan points) are available on most campsites and at a few public stations, for example in Kinlochleven; check locations on Skye (Portree, Broadford) in advance. Never empty grey water onto the ground or into ditches.
- Tap water is safe to drink in Scotland; hose connections often have different fittings from those in Germany – bring an adapter set (Gardena to British). Electricity: CEE blue (230 V, 16 A) as on the Continent, but long cables (25 m) are useful.
- Gas: Calor Gas and Campingaz bottles are widely available in the United Kingdom; German exchange bottles are not swapped, and Calor bottles may not be refilled. Autogas (LPG) is hard to find in the Highlands – if you use a refillable bottle or a fixed tank, fill up on the mainland beforehand. Arrive with full bottles and an adapter. For the Eurotunnel, according to Le Shuttle, a maximum of 47 kg per bottle or tank and 50 kg in total applies; fixed tanks may be filled to 80% at most and need a level gauge; gas must be declared on request. On ferries the shipping line's rules apply: ask in advance about the number and size of bottles.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Entry: Great Britain is not in the EU. EU citizens need a passport (an identity card is sufficient only in exceptional cases) and, since April 2025, the electronic travel authorisation ETA (according to gov.uk £20, since 8 April 2026, previously £16; generally valid for two years, to be applied for per person, including children). Carry the vehicle documents, registration and proof of insurance; ask your insurer whether your policy needs a Green Card. The nationality sticker (D or Euro plate) must be on the vehicle. You would do better not to bring meat and dairy products from the EU, as importing them is heavily restricted (check the rules on gov.uk). For dogs and cats a microchip, rabies vaccination and an Animal Health Certificate are required, and possibly tapeworm treatment as well; details on gov.uk.
- Driving on the left: roundabouts clockwise, with traffic already on the roundabout, coming from the right, having priority. Adjust headlights for right-hand traffic with stickers or beam deflectors. On single-track roads with passing places: use passing places on the left of the carriageway; if the passing place is on the right, stop opposite it. Never park in passing places, and let waiting traffic past. Additional exterior mirrors make sense for wide vehicles.
- Speed limits (mph, according to gov.uk): motorhomes up to 3.05 t unladen weight 60 mph on single-carriageway roads, 70 mph on dual carriageways and motorways; over 3.05 t unladen weight 50 mph, 60 mph and 70 mph on motorways respectively; cars with a trailer or caravan 50 mph, 60 mph and 60 mph on motorways respectively. In built-up areas usually 30 mph, in places 20 mph; signs take precedence. Dimensions (maximum values for UK-registered motorhomes): width up to 2.55 m, length up to 12 m, no fixed height limit (from 3 m height a warning sign in the cab), but height barriers at car parks (e.g. Portree, Fort William).
- Alcohol: Scotland has a limit of 0.5 per mille (50 mg per 100 ml of blood), lower than in England. Mobile phones at the wheel only with hands-free; fines from £200. Winter tyres are not compulsory. There are no toll roads on this route; the Skye Bridge is toll-free. The Glasgow Low Emission Zone applies, according to the city, to all vehicles entering that are not exempt (petrol from Euro 4, diesel from Euro 6; penalty £60, halved if paid within 14 days); how foreign vehicles are detected, the city does not explain – check your vehicle in advance using the Transport Scotland checker or avoid the city centre.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Midge head nets, Smidge or Saltidge and anti-midge candles: Highland midges are the main plague from May to September at dusk and when the wind drops, and are possible into October.
- Headlight deflector stickers and extra mirrors for driving on the left, especially on single-track roads.
- Waterproof boots and a rain jacket: the Fairy Pools, the Quiraing and Glenfinnan are muddy after rain, and it often rains in the West Highlands.
- Adapters for water connections, a long CEE cable (25 m) and a voltage tester for the hook-up posts on small sites.
- Printed ferry confirmations for CalMac (Mallaig–Armadale) and reservations for trains and admissions, in case the network fails on the island.
- Tick remover and insect protection for walks in the heather; ticks are common in summer.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
