In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Graz along the Südsteirische Weinstraße and through the Thermenland to Mariazell, then via the Erzberg and the Gesäuse to the foot of the Dachstein south face: around 775 kilometres between vineyards, volcanic castles and limestone Alps.
The spirit of the route
Styria changes scenery faster than the road signs: one moment the Klapotetz wind rattles in the vines around Gamlitz, then the volcanic rock of Riegersburg with its castle looms hazily over the maize fields, and two days later the rock walls of the Gesäuse rise so steeply above the Enns that the sun only reaches the valley floor in late morning. From your sliding door you can smell freshly pressed grapes and pumpkin seed oil in September, and cold rock and wet moss in the Salza valley. In between come Buschenschanken with their Brettljause, pilgrimage routes to Mariazell, the yellow-red terraced face of the Erzberg and, in the Enns valley, the glaciers of the Dachstein. The driving is relaxed, the roads are good and the sites are plentiful – the trick is to plan your evenings and stages so that wine tasting and driving never meet.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Graz to Gamlitz (Südsteirische Weinstraße) (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- From Graz take the A9 Pyhrn Autobahn south towards Leibnitz or, more leisurely, the B67 through the Mur valley; from Ehrenhausen join the Südsteirische Weinstraße, a narrow country road that winds over the vine-covered hills to Gamlitz. Wide main roads; on the Weinstraße itself expect oncoming traffic, cyclists and tractors. A good hour of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Graz: old town (UNESCO World Heritage Site) with the Schlossberg and Uhrturm, the Kunsthaus and the Murinsel – best explored over a day on foot and by tram.
- Schloss Seggau on the Seggauberg near Leibnitz with views over the Sulm valley and the Mur plain; in the valley below, the excavations of the Roman town of Flavia Solva.
- Ehrenhausen, the gateway to the Weinstraße, with the first Klapotetz wind wheels, which scare starlings away from the vines in late summer.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Graz, the Reisemobil-Stellplatz Graz in the south-west of the city offers around 160 pitches with electricity, service points and sanitary facilities; buses and trains run from there into the centre. Alternatively, Camping Platz Schwarzlsee in Premstätten. Further south in Leibnitz is Camping Sulmsee with a bathing lake and electric hook-ups; in Gamlitz there is the Wohnmobilstellplatz am Motorikpark with about 20 pitches and service points, as well as Campingplatz Obstgut Ledinegg. Book early in September and October, during the grape harvest.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Styria leaves bans on camping outside campsites to the municipalities: under the Steiermärkisches Landes-Sicherheitsgesetz they can prohibit camping by ordinance. Riegersburg, for example, did so in 2025 for its entire municipal area, with fines of up to €5,000. Expect no-camping signs in the wine villages; a winemaker’s pitch or a spot at a Buschenschank is the legally safe choice, often free if you eat or drink there.
- Insider tip for campers
- Graz has short-term parking zones and a largely car-free old town – leave the motorhome at the Stellplatz and take the tram. On the A9 south of Graz (Webling–Schwarzlsee), a full-scale renovation has been under way since 13 September 2026 with a 60 km/h limit and section control; work in the southbound direction is due to last until November 2026, and delays are possible. Further speed restrictions also apply on sections of the A2 and A9. Buy pumpkin seed oil and wine direct from the farm; if you are driving, do not taste – the blood alcohol limit is 0.5.
2Stage 2: Gamlitz to Bad Radkersburg (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Gamlitz via Eichberg-Trautenburg and Leutschach, looping back to the Weinstraße, then east on minor roads via Mureck an der Mur to Bad Radkersburg, following the border river. Quiet, winding roads with narrow village streets and climbs in the vineyards. Around 1.5 hours without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- The Weinstraße between Gamlitz and Leutschach: Buschenschanken with terraces, Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Morillon straight from the winemaker.
- Klöch with its extinct volcano and Traminer vineyard sites, plus the Straden region with its church on the ridge.
- Bad Radkersburg: historic old town, the Mur cycle path and the Parktherme.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Campingplatz Radkersburg right next to the Parktherme Bad Radkersburg; according to the operator, the camping packages include admission to the Parktherme. On the way: Reisemobilstellplatz Mureck on the banks of the Mur with electricity and service points, and MurAuen Camping Gosdorf. Ask the operators about season and prices in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Camping ordinances are widespread along the Mur and at Weinstraße car parks; spending the night in hiking and cycling car parks is risky. Sleeping at winemakers’ farm pitches or on a designated Stellplatz is the relaxed option.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Mur bridge at Bad Radkersburg leads to Slovenia (Gornja Radgona) – Slovenia has its own motorway vignette requirement if you are planning a detour. Fill up in Graz or Leibnitz before the border area and compare prices rather than relying on village filling stations.
3Stage 3: Bad Radkersburg to Riegersburg (Thermenland) (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- From Bad Radkersburg through the Steirisches Vulkanland via Bad Gleichenberg and Feldbach to Riegersburg. Wide country roads, little traffic, lots of roundabouts. A good 1.5 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Bad Gleichenberg: spa gardens with a historic Kurhaus and healing springs, short walks in the woods.
- Burg Riegersburg on its volcanic rock – the mighty fortress is one of the largest castles in Styria; climb on foot or take the lift.
- Zotter Schokoladen-Theater in Bergl near Riegersburg; if you have time, add the Therme Bad Blumau with its Hundertwasser architecture on top.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Resort Riegersburg at the foot of the castle. In the Thermenland there is also Genuss-Camping Bad Gleichenberg (electricity, sanitary facilities) and the Wohnmobilstellplatz Siniwelt in Sinabelkirchen with service points. Check opening times and booking conditions in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Riegersburg has banned camping outside campsites for its entire municipal area (ordinance of 2025, fines of up to €5,000). Bans are also to be expected in other Thermenland municipalities. Parking in the castle car park during the day is standard; staying overnight there is not.
- Insider tip for campers
- Some of the spas work with day tickets and have evening closing times – on campsites with spa access, the rest day practically books itself. In the Vulkanland region many inns are closed on Sundays; a fridge stocked with provisions saves you from going hungry.
4Stage 4: Riegersburg to Mariazell (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- Via Gleisdorf onto the A2 towards Graz, there onto the A9 and on along the S35 Murtal Schnellstraße north to Bruck an der Mur, then via Kapfenberg and Aflenz on the B20 Mariazeller Straße over the Seebergsattel (around 1,250 m) to Mariazell. A fast motorway and expressway stretch, followed by a mountain pass with climbs. A good 2.5 hours of driving time, rather more around Graz because of the A9 roadworks; the longest day of the tour before the return journey.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Seebergsattel with a view of the mountains of the Hochschwab area; short photo stops only, where it is safe to do so.
- Mariazell: basilica, Austria’s most important place of pilgrimage, with the Gnadenkapelle at its centre.
- Bürgeralpe: cable car from Mariazell and walking trails, or a ride on the historic Mariazellerbahn to St. Pölten.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Mariazell itself is short of Stellplätze; the dependable option is the campsite at the Erlaufsee, about 3 kilometres north-west of Mariazell (the lake lies on the border with Lower Austria). Alternatively Camping Mooswirt in the Salza valley (see stage 5). Check accessibility and opening times before setting off.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Nature conservation and municipal ordinances apply at the Erlaufsee and in the region; spending the night in lakeside car parks is checked. There are no overnight spots on the Seebergstraße. Farm pitches and business pitches in the region are legal.
- Insider tip for campers
- Split the day with a break in Bruck an der Mur or Aflenz. Mariazell is full on pilgrimage days (high feast days, summer weekends); park on the edge of town and walk into the centre. Fill up with water beforehand: disposal stations are scarce.
5Stage 5: Mariazell to Eisenerz (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- From Mariazell through the Salza valley via Weichselboden and Wildalpen on the B24, past Palfau and Landl to Hieflau, then on the B115 through the Erzbach valley to Eisenerz. One of the most beautiful valley roads in Styria, wide but tight between rock and river; tunnels and short narrow sections. Around 2 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Wildalpen with the Museum of the Vienna Hochquellenwasserleitung (mountain spring water supply) and the Naturpark Steirische Eisenwurzen.
- Wasserlochklamm near Palfau: a path through the gorge with five waterfalls; in 2026, according to the operator, open daily from 9 am to 6 pm until 1 November (admission charged; current times and tickets via wasserlochklamm.at).
- Eisenerz at the Erzberg: show mine, the terraces of the largest open-cast ore mine in Central Europe, and the Leopoldsteiner See.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Mooswirt and Camping Wildalpen in the Salza valley; in Eisenerz the small Wohnmobilstellplatz Eisenerz with electricity, water and waste disposal (few pitches, ask about facilities in advance). Alternatively Campingplatz Palfau.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Salza valley and at the Leopoldsteiner See, expect checks by the municipalities and the nature conservation authority; do not plan on overnighting in car parks or by the lake. In Eisenerz, use the designated Stellplatz.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Erzberg is an active mine: visits only as part of the guided tours and events on offer. At Hieflau the B24, the B115 and the Gesäuse-Straße B146 meet – after rain or mudslides in the Salza valley, closures can occur at short notice; check current road conditions via the traffic reports (ÖAMTC, Land Steiermark).
6Stage 6: Eisenerz to Admont (Gesäuse) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- Back to Hieflau, then on the B146 Gesäuse-Straße through the Gesäuse gorge of the Enns to Admont. A good road with narrow tunnels and rock walls right beside the carriageway; keep your distance from oncoming traffic in the narrow sections. About 1 hour of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- The Gesäuse entrance and Gstatterboden: walking trails to the banks of the Enns and waterfalls beneath the rocks of the Ödstein and Hochtor.
- Johnsbach with the Kölblalm and a view of the Gesäuse mountains (narrow access road from Gstatterboden).
- Stift Admont with the largest monastery library in the world.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Campingplatz Forstgarten in Gstatterboden, in the heart of the Nationalpark Gesäuse: electricity and chemical toilet disposal; according to the operator, fixed reception hours and no advance booking, ask about the season beforehand. Alternatively, camping options around Admont and Liezen; check opening and availability in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Nationalpark Gesäuse, camping and pitching tents outside campsites is prohibited, and nature conservation fines can be steep. Hiking car parks also permit parking only, not overnight stays.
- Insider tip for campers
- The access road to Johnsbach is narrow: with long vehicles, ask the municipality or national park in advance about vehicle limits and parking, and if in doubt use a bicycle. Dogs must be kept on a lead in the national park; in heavy rain the Enns can rise quickly, so never stand right at the bank.
7Stage 7: Admont to Ramsau am Dachstein / Schladming (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- From Admont via Liezen in the Enns valley on the B320 Ennstal Straße, past Stainach, the Grimming (Trautenfels) and Gröbming to Schladming; from there up to Ramsau am Dachstein on the improved access road with marked climbs. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Schloss Trautenfels with a view of the Grimming, the largest free-standing mountain in the Alps.
- Dachstein glacier cable car from Ramsau: ride up to the high plateau with the Dachstein glacier, Ice Palace and Skywalk; check operating times and maintenance closures in advance.
- Schladminger Untertal with the Riesachfall (walk) and the Alpinsteig through the Höll; the car parks in the Untertal are partly subject to charges.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Ramsau, Camping Dachstein; in Schladming, Camping Zirngast and Campbert (electricity, service points, sanitary facilities). Other sites in the area: Reiteralm Camping, Campingplatz Ramsau Beach. Book in high summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Enns valley and in Ramsau, camping outside the sites is prohibited; checks take place regularly. Parking at the hiking car park is tolerated during the day, but not overnight stays.
- Insider tip for campers
- Cable car and hiking car parks fill up as early as the morning in good weather – set off early. For the glacier, take warm clothing (even in August); the cable cars can suspend operation in bad weather. Take the climb to Ramsau in a low gear and use engine braking on the way down.
8Stage 8: Schladming to Graz (approx. 205 km)
- The drive
- Via the B320 to Liezen, at Selzthal onto the A9 Pyhrn Autobahn, through the Gleinalmtunnel and south to Graz. Motorway, well built, with tunnel sections and a section toll (Gleinalmtunnel). Around 2.5 to 3 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- A break in the Enns valley near Liezen or Trautenfels – an easy chance for last-minute shopping.
- The Gleinalm stretch with a view of the Seckauer Alpen.
- A finale in Graz with the Schlossberg and Murinsel, if you want to plan one more evening.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Reisemobil-Stellplatz Graz in the south-west of the city or Camping Platz Schwarzlsee near Premstätten, both with electricity and waste disposal. Both lie on the A9 section Webling–Schwarzlsee, where renovation has been under way since 13 September 2026 (60 km/h, section control, delays possible). Book ahead if there is a trade fair or major event in Graz.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Graz, overnighting on the street is hardly practicable; the city has short-term parking zones. Stay at the Stellplatz.
- Insider tip for campers
- On the A9, the Gleinalm and Bosruck tunnel sections have their own section toll (ticket for vehicles up to 3.5 t; no additional vignette is needed there); on this route only the Gleinalmtunnel applies, as the Bosrucktunnel lies south of Spital am Pyhrn, not on your way. Vehicles over 3.5 t are charged via the GO-Maut. Check current rates with ASFINAG. Fill up at town or village filling stations away from the motorway; service stations are usually more expensive.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Austria regulates camping by federal state and municipality. In Styria, municipalities can ban camping outside campsites by ordinance under the Steiermärkisches Landes-Sicherheitsgesetz (example: Riegersburg 2025, fines of up to €5,000). Check municipal signs and village entrances.
- A motorhome may park wherever parking is allowed; an overnight stay to restore fitness to drive is often tolerated, as long as there are no camping features such as chairs, tables, an awning or grey water. Where there is no prohibition sign, this is a grey area – if in doubt, ask.
- Nature conservation rules apply in protected areas, national parks (Gesäuse) and nature parks (Steirische Eisenwurzen); do not plan on camping outside campsites there. Penalties are set by the respective nature conservation law; ask the park administration.
- You can stay legally overnight on campsites, municipal Stellplätze and farm pitches at winemakers and farmers. Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact, Stellplatzführer and directories such as the ÖAMTC Campingführer.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points (fresh water and waste disposal) are available at larger Stellplätze (Graz, Gamlitz, Mureck, Eisenerz) and on campsites; some facilities work with coins or tokens and are only open to guests. Public stations are rare in the side valleys.
- Empty grey water and the toilet cassette only at designated stations; dumping them in the wild is an offence and leads to Stellplätze being closed.
- Tap water in Styria is mostly drinkable (a lot of spring water from the limestone Alps); watch for signs saying “No drinking water”.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are generally not exchanged in Austria. Refill refillable cylinders and gas tanks at LPG filling stations with a suitable adapter; check the connection standard in Austria. Arrive with full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 50 km/h in built-up areas, 100 km/h outside them, 130 km/h on the motorway; over 3.5 t 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on expressways and motorways. Lower limits apply to vehicles with trailers; check details with the ÖAMTC or ASFINAG before your trip. On Styrian motorway sections, additional local speed limits apply (roadworks, air-quality protection); the signs take precedence.
- Toll: the vignette (digital or sticker) applies on motorways and expressways; the A9 Pyhrn Autobahn also has a section toll for the Gleinalm and Bosruck tunnels (separate ticket, no vignette needed for these sections). Vehicles over 3.5 t pay the GO-Maut (GO-Box). Check prices and validity with ASFINAG.
- Low-emission zone: Austria has no sticker requirement as in Germany. In the Graz area, IG-L measures (speed limits, restrictions for older heavy vehicles) may apply and may change; for motorhomes over 3.5 t, keep the Euro class in the vehicle registration document to hand and check the current status with the Land Steiermark before your trip.
- Dimensions: motorhomes up to 12 m long, 2.55 m wide, 4.00 m high; vehicles with trailers up to 18.75 m. Larger vehicles need a special permit. Winter equipment (winter tyres or snow chains) is compulsory from 1 November to 15 April in wintry conditions.
- Alcohol limit 0.5, phone only with a hands-free kit, a high-visibility vest in the vehicle is compulsory; radar detectors are prohibited.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Levelling wedges: pitches on vineyards and meadows are often sloping, and wedges protect the fridge.
- Bicycles or e-bikes: the Mur cycle path, the Weinstraße cycle routes and the Enns cycle path can all be ridden from your pitch, and on the narrow Weinstraße bikes are more relaxed than the motorhome.
- Walking boots and walking poles: the Wasserlochklamm, the Gesäuse and the Dachstein demand sturdy footwear.
- A warm layer and rain jacket: in the Gesäuse and on the Dachstein plateau it is often below 10 °C even in summer, and thunderstorms move in quickly.
- Water adapter set and extension hose: water connections vary on farm and business pitches.
- Digital vignette: register your number plate before the trip; note the section toll for the Gleinalmtunnel (A9).
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
