In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the gypsum dunes near Alamogordo via Lincoln County and Roswell to the caverns of Carlsbad and the highest mountain in Texas: 615 kilometres of Chihuahuan Desert.
The spirit of the route
The Chihuahuan Desert shows three faces here. At White Sands the camper rolls along a road of packed gypsum, with snow-white dunes building up left and right, and at sunset the sand turns pink. In the Sacramento Mountains it becomes cool and green: pines, streams and villages where Billy the Kid and Smokey Bear have left stories behind. South of Roswell the karst country begins. At Carlsbad, on summer evenings hundreds of thousands of bats rise from the cave; in the Guadalupe Mountains agaves and pines stand on a fossil reef, and Guadalupe Peak stands out as the highest point in Texas. The desert demands planning: water, fuel, weather and reservations, and then it rewards you with silence and a sky that glows with stars at night.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Alamogordo to Cloudcroft (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- From Alamogordo on US 70 about 24 kilometres west into White Sands National Park, drive Dunes Drive (about 8 miles) to the end and back, then up US 82 to Cloudcroft (over 2,600 m): a long winding road with tight bends and a marked gain in altitude. On US 70, sections are closed for a time during missile tests at White Sands Missile Range; waiting times are possible, so check the park’s channels. Pure driving time about 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- White Sands National Park: the largest gypsum dune field in the world; Dunes Drive with trails (Dune Life Nature Trail, Interdune Boardwalk, Alkali Flat Trail), sliding down on plastic sleds (rental at the visitor centre). Evening and full-moon programmes depending on the season, check dates on nps.gov.
- Three Rivers Petroglyph Site (BLM) north of Tularosa: over 21,000 rock carvings on a basalt ridge, small campground; a well-organised visit takes about an hour.
- Cloudcroft: a mountain village in Lincoln National Forest, The Lodge hotel of 1899, walks under spruces; summer evenings noticeably cooler.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Oliver Lee Memorial State Park south of Alamogordo at Dog Canyon: campground with sites with and without electricity, water, toilets, dump station; check length limits and reservations with New Mexico State Parks. White Sands itself has no campground for vehicles, only a few backcountry tent sites with a permit from the visitor centre. Near Cloudcroft, Lincoln National Forest sites offer simple pitches; ask locally about names, opening and length limits.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Dispersed camping is mostly allowed in Lincoln National Forest (14 days), and on BLM land around Alamogordo on marked tracks. In White Sands, on the Missile Range grounds and in the Mescalero Apache Reservation it is prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- Drive early in the morning or late in the afternoon: Dunes Drive is hot and glaring at midday. Take sunglasses, a hat and water; sled rental in the park. Fill up with fuel and shop in Alamogordo.
2Stage 2: Cloudcroft to Lincoln (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- From Cloudcroft north on NM 130 through Mescalero (reservation) and on US 70 to Ruidoso, then north on NM 48 to Capitan and east on US 380 to Lincoln. Two-lane, hill country, a lot of traffic around Ruidoso. Pure driving time about 2.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ruidoso: a town on the Rio Ruidoso with galleries and the Ruidoso Downs racetrack; in summer a weekend trip for Texans, and correspondingly full.
- Smokey Bear Historical Park in Capitan: museum and grave of the original forest-fire bear Smokey, who was found injured in the Capitan Mountains in 1950.
- Lincoln State Monument: a well-preserved Wild West town, scene of the Lincoln County War and of Billy the Kid’s escape; buildings such as the old courthouse can be visited, so check opening hours beforehand.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the Ruidoso area private RV parks offer hook-ups; Lincoln National Forest has several simple sites. Lincoln itself has small sites, so clarify names and opening before you arrive. Book early in the school holidays.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Dispersed camping in Lincoln National Forest mostly up to 14 days, but prohibited in the Mescalero Apache reservation and on private land; no overnighting on streets in Ruidoso and Lincoln.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Apache Mescalero reservation is open for driving through, but away from the roads it is not freely accessible. Sort out rubbish and water in Ruidoso. Lincoln State Monument is small, and one to two hours are enough.
3Stage 3: Lincoln to Roswell (approx. 145 km)
- The drive
- East on US 380 via Hondo, Tinnie and the Pecos River to Roswell: a long drive through the valley of the Rio Hondo, with the landscape opening out into prairie and farmland. Two-lane, speeds 55–65 mph. Pure driving time about 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Hondo Valley: a green river valley with orchards and small galleries, good for a photo stop.
- Roswell: International UFO Museum, known for the incident of 1947; a short stop for souvenir photos.
- Bottomless Lakes State Park: nine karst lakes on the edge of the Pecos Valley, diving, swimming and hiking; water levels vary.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Bottomless Lakes State Park south-east of Roswell: campgrounds on the lakeshore, sites with and without hook-ups, showers; check length limits and reservations with New Mexico State Parks. There are also private RV parks in Roswell.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In and around Roswell, overnighting in car parks and on streets is not allowed; on BLM land in the Pecos Valley dispersed camping is partly possible, so check the areas.
- Insider tip for campers
- The summer heat (over 35 °C) is enormous, so plan midday stops in air-conditioned museums. Fill up with fuel in Roswell; there are few services until Carlsbad.
4Stage 4: Roswell to Carlsbad (approx. 120 km)
- The drive
- South on US 285 via Artesia to Carlsbad: a flat, straight stretch through oil and gas fields, a lot of lorry traffic, speeds mostly 65–75 mph. Pure driving time about 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Artesia: a small town with murals and a town museum, a practical stop for fuel and shopping.
- Pecos River in Carlsbad: promenade and riverwalk by the river, parks and cafés.
- Living Desert Zoo and Gardens State Park: desert plants and native animals such as wolves and bears; check opening and admission.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Brantley Lake State Park north of Carlsbad: campground by the lake, sites with and without electricity, showers, dump station; check length limits and reservations with New Mexico State Parks. Carlsbad has private RV parks with full hook-ups.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On BLM land around Carlsbad dispersed camping is partly possible where tracks give access, but in the oil and gas field it is very restricted and, because of the industry, not recommended.
- Insider tip for campers
- Book tickets for Carlsbad Caverns and the bat flight programme early, before you arrive in Carlsbad. In Carlsbad fill up with fuel and water and buy supplies; in the park area there are only limited shops.
5Stage 5: Carlsbad to Carlsbad Caverns National Park (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- On US 62/180 south-west via Whites City to the park entrance, then about 7 miles of road up to the visitor centre: quiet, flat, then climbing, speeds 35–55 mph. About an hour’s driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Carlsbad Cavern: the Natural Entrance Trail leads steeply down for about 1.25 miles, the Big Room Trail about 1 mile through the largest chamber; lifts are subject to times and status. The cave stays at about 13 °C all year. A timed-entry system applies to the cave; a reservation (Recreation.gov or the park’s telephone line) is strongly recommended, and you should check the current rules on nps.gov/cave before the trip.
- Bat Flight Program: an evening spectacle at the entrance when the Mexican free-tailed bats leave the cave; the season runs roughly from early summer to October, so check dates and rules (no electronics) with the NPS.
- Slaughter Canyon Cave and Walnut Canyon Desert Drive: ranger tours with registration; the gravel loop is not suitable for large vehicles.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: There is no campground for vehicles in the national park itself. In Whites City and Carlsbad, private RV parks offer hook-ups (check names locally); Brantley Lake State Park is the public alternative to the north. A permit is needed for backcountry camping in the park.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Prohibited in the park. On BLM land in the surrounding area dispersed camping is possible, but access roads are often unpaved; in the desert it is very hot in summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- The cave is not suitable for dogs and small children; dogs are not allowed in the cave, and there is a kennel in the park. Dress warmly, as it is constantly cool in the cave, and take sturdy footwear.
6Stage 6: Carlsbad Caverns National Park to Guadalupe Mountains National Park (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- On US 62/180 south-west via Whites City through the Chihuahuan Desert to Pine Springs in Texas: long straights, with the Guadalupe ridge rising in the background. Pure driving time about 1 hour. Back to Alamogordo via US 62/180 to El Paso and north on US 54 (about 300 km), otherwise return via Carlsbad.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Guadalupe Peak: the highest point in Texas (2,667 m), about 8.4 miles there and back with around 900 m of height gain; a day trip in good weather and with water. Start early in the morning.
- McKittrick Canyon: in autumn maples and oaks in red and yellow, day-use admission only, gate open only at fixed times; trails to ruins and streams.
- Frijole Ranch and Smith Spring: a small oasis in the desert with a museum and a short loop trail.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Pine Springs Campground in the park: sites for tents and vehicles, without hook-ups and without a dump station, drinking water only for filling bottles; vehicles of 55 ft and longer are prohibited, reservations up to six months ahead via Recreation.gov. Dog Canyon Campground lies on the northern edge and can only be reached via NM 137 from Carlsbad, about 2 to 2.5 hours’ drive; vehicles 23 ft at most, no electricity, no dump station.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Prohibited in the park. On Forest Service land and BLM to the west of the mountains dispersed camping is possible, but the areas are remote, with no water and no mobile reception.
- Insider tip for campers
- Bring water: there is none on the trails. Wind is often strong on the Guadalupe ridge, so secure the vehicle against the gusts. In summer watch out for thunderstorms and heat.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In New Mexico dispersed camping on National Forest and BLM land is generally allowed, usually for up to 14 days in one place; State Trust Land and reservations (Mescalero Apache) require a permit or are closed. In Texas there is hardly any free camping on public land outside the national park.
- In the national parks of White Sands, Carlsbad Caverns and Guadalupe Mountains, camping is allowed only at designated sites or with a backcountry permit; free camping leads to a warning and a fine.
- White Sands Missile Range closes parts of US 70 and access roads during missile tests; closures are announced by the NPS and NMDOT. Never leave the road on the range grounds.
- Wildlife: rattlesnakes, scorpions, cougars and black bears are possible in the mountains; do not leave water and food lying around. Do not touch bats.
- Heat and weather: in summer over 35–40 °C, flash floods in arroyos during thunderstorms; when warnings are issued, never park in dry beds.
- Useful apps and sites: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, Recreation.gov (Carlsbad Caverns, Guadalupe, Forest Service), New Mexico State Parks, nmroads.com and DriveTexas.org.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations: Oliver Lee Memorial State Park, Bottomless Lakes State Park, Brantley Lake State Park and private RV parks in Carlsbad, Alamogordo and Roswell; check availability in advance. Sanidumps.com lists stations.
- Drinking water: tap water in the towns is drinkable; limited in the national parks, at individual points in Guadalupe. Carry at least 20 l per person per day in the desert.
- Fuel: fuel stations in Alamogordo, Cloudcroft, Ruidoso, Roswell, Artesia, Carlsbad and Whites City; there is no fuel station at Pine Springs, so fill up in good time.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Alamogordo, Ruidoso, Roswell, Carlsbad; only small sales outlets in the park. Buy fresh produce in Carlsbad.
- Gas: propane in Alamogordo, Roswell and Carlsbad; European bottles need an adapter, and rental motorhomes have permanently installed US tanks.
- Electricity and mobile coverage: hardly any reception in the Guadalupe Mountains and parts of White Sands; download offline maps. Hook-ups only at individual state park sites.
- Laundry and showers: coin laundries in Alamogordo, Roswell and Carlsbad; showers in the state parks.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: highways outside towns mostly 55–75, in built-up areas 25–35; in the parks 15–35 mph. Wildlife on the road at night, especially around Cloudcroft and Guadalupe.
- Admission and reservations: all three national parks charge admission; since 2026, visitors without US residence face partly higher fees or surcharges in heavily visited parks – check current amounts on nps.gov. A timed-entry system with strongly recommended reservation applies to Carlsbad Caverns; guided tours (Slaughter Canyon, Hall of the White Giant in Carlsbad Cavern) can be booked separately.
- Dimensions and lengths: the access road to Cloudcroft and the park roads are drivable for motorhomes, but Walnut Canyon Desert Drive is not suitable for large vehicles; many sites limit length. Legal maximum height mostly 13 ft 6 in.
- Altitude and weight: Cloudcroft lies at about 2,600 m; the climbs strain the engine, so watch for overheating in summer.
- Weather and season: the best time is October to April; summer is hot, with monsoon thunderstorms July to September, and winter brings snow in the mountains. Wind is often strong in Guadalupe.
- Traffic law for travellers: turning right on red after stopping is allowed unless prohibited; open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited. A German driving licence is enough, an international one is often recommended. Child seat and seat belt requirements also apply in a motorhome.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception is patchy in Guadalupe and White Sands. Do not underestimate heat, dehydration and sudden thunderstorms.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Water containers (at least 20 l per person) and electrolytes: desert heat and long stretches without a source.
- Sun protection, hat and dark sunglasses: the white gypsum reflects the light strongly.
- Head torch with red light and a star chart: no lights are allowed for the bat programme, and the sky is dark.
- Warm jacket: the cave stays at about 13 °C throughout, and in the mountains it is near freezing at night.
- Sturdy footwear with tread: the Guadalupe Peak trail and cave paths are steep and rocky.
- Children’s or plastic sled (optional) for the dunes: rental possible at the visitor centre.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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