The Helgeland coast: Kystriksveien to Bodø

Route description

Kystriksveien, the Fv17, is the slow alternative to the E6: about 650 km along an island-studded coast with six car ferries. Leave the E6 at Steinkjer and head north-west to the Holm–Vennesund ferry, then on to Brønnøysund, a small town right in the middle of Norway’s coastline.

Cross the bridge to Torghatten and climb to the hole through the mountain. Further north the Horn–Andalsvåg and Tjøtta–Forvik ferries lead to Sandnessjøen, beneath the peaks of the Seven Sisters, and the Levang–Nesna crossing brings you into ever wilder country.

The Kilboghamn–Jektvik ferry crosses the Arctic Circle, marked by a globe on the shore. Past Ågskardet and a short hop to Forøy, the road runs along Holandsfjorden, where a small boat takes you towards Engabreen; then comes Ørnes, a quiet fishing village.

The last stretch reaches Saltstraumen, where you should time your visit for the peak of the tide, and then Bodø. Ferries run all year, but book the longer crossings in July and allow extra time; there are good small campsites along the way, and the midnight sun shines here from early June to early July.