Messinia: Ancient Messene, Navarino Bay and the Venetian castles

Route description

Kalamata, known for its olives, sits at the head of the Messinian Gulf with a long beach and a small castle above the old town. Drive north-west about 30 km to Ancient Messene, one of the largest excavated cities in Greece, with a stadium and theatre in a green valley beneath Mount Ithomi. Allow at least two hours, and bring water.

Head south-west through olive groves to the Polylimnio waterfalls near Charavgi, a chain of pools linked by a path, where swimming is allowed in places. Continue west to the coast and the Palace of Nestor above Navarino Bay, one of the best-preserved Mycenaean palaces, protected by a modern roof. The road down to the bay leads past the Gialova lagoon.

Voidokilia is a half-moon of sand between dunes and a rocky hill, at the northern end of Navarino Bay. Walk up to the Old Castle and Nestor’s Cave above the beach for the view, and look for flamingos and waders on the lagoon in spring and autumn. Pylos, 15 km south, has a harbour square shaded by plane trees and a large Ottoman fortress.

From Pylos, drive 12 km south to Methoni, where the Venetian castle ends in the octagonal Bourtzi tower on a rock in the sea. Then follow the coast east to Koroni, a small harbour town under another Venetian castle. The roads are good but narrow in the villages; Voidokilia’s dirt car park suits campervans, and wild camping by the beach is not allowed.