Epirus coast and Lefkada: Parga, the Acheron and Porto Katsiki

Route description

Igoumenitsa is the port for ferries from Italy and Corfu. Drive south along the coast about 50 km to Parga, a town of coloured houses climbing up to a Venetian castle, with beaches on both sides of the headland. The streets are steep and parking is scarce in summer, so leave the vehicle at the edge of town and walk down to the waterfront.

Inland from Parga, the Acheron river, the river of the dead in Greek myth, emerges from a gorge at Glyki. Wade upstream in the cold, clear water, with water shoes. Further downstream, the Necromanteion, an ancient oracle of the dead, stands on a hill near the river mouth, with an underground vaulted hall. Both make a pleasant half-day from Parga.

Continue south to Nikopolis, the city founded by Octavian after his victory over Antony and Cleopatra at Actium in 31 BC; the main road passes through its walls. Then go on to Preveza on its peninsula, and take the undersea tunnel to Aktio. From there, it is about 20 km to Lefkada, joined to the mainland by a causeway and a small swing bridge.

Lefkada town lies on a lagoon at the northern tip of the island. Drive down the west coast past Kathisma beach to Porto Katsiki, about 45 km, where steps lead down white cliffs to turquoise water. The island roads are narrow and steep, and parking at the beaches fills by late morning in summer. The Preveza tunnel charges a toll, and larger motorhomes pay more.