Costa da Morte: Galicia’s coast of shipwrecks

Route description

From Santiago de Compostela take the AC-543 south-west to Noia and then the AC-550 along the north shore of the Ría de Muros e Noia to Muros, about 65 km. Muros has an arcaded old town of granite houses around its harbour. The Costa da Morte, the coast of death, is named for the many ships wrecked on its reefs, and the sea here is colder and rougher than on the Rías Baixas.

Continue north on the AC-550 to Carnota, where the huge stone granary stands beside the church and a 7 km beach runs below. The rounded granite of Monte Pindo rises behind the coast. At Ézaro, the Xallas river falls straight into the sea; the waterfall is fullest in winter and spring, and on some summer evenings it is lit up. A steep road climbs to the Ézaro viewpoint above the bay.

The road goes on through Cee and Corcubión to Fisterra and the lighthouse on Cape Finisterre, the end point for many Camino pilgrims. Sunset at the cape is crowded; parking at the lighthouse is limited, so large vans should use the lower car park. From Fisterra a quiet road north leads to Muxía, where the sanctuary of A Virxe da Barca stands on smooth rocks at the edge of the ocean.

From Muxía drive round the Ría de Camariñas to Camariñas, known for its bobbin lace, and out to the lighthouse at Cabo Vilán. The coast road there passes the English cemetery, where the crew of HMS Serpent were buried after it sank in 1890. The drive back east through Laxe, Malpica and Carballo to A Coruña is about 100 km. Many roads here are narrow but paved and quiet.