# Cyclopean walls, fortress steps and a theatre under the stars – through the Argolis by motorhome > From Mycenae and Tiryns via Argos and Nafplio to the theatre of Epidaurus, then on to the volcanic Methana peninsula and the pine-clad coast around Ermioni… Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-634-argolis-nafplio-epidaurus/ **At a glance:** 8-day road trip of about 198 km (123 mi) with 13 stops, from Isthmia to Porto Cheli. About 2 h 44 min of driving in total. Best time to go: April–May and October–November. Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €7 (Greece). From Mycenae and Tiryns via Argos and Nafplio to the theatre of Epidaurus, then on to the volcanic Methana peninsula and the pine-clad coast around Ermioni and Porto Heli: about 550 kilometres in eight stages, with antiquity never more than a quarter of an hour from the beach. | | | |---|---| | Distance | approx. 198 km (123 mi) | | Driving | 2 h 44 min | | Suggested days | 8 | | Stops | 13 | | Route | Isthmia → Porto Cheli | | Countries | Greece | | Best time to go | April–May and October–November | | Tolls and vignettes | ≈ €7 | | Updated | October 1, 2026 | [Download GPX file](https://camping-spirit.com/gpx/rf-634-argolis-nafplio-epidaurus.gpx) Practical guides for this route: [Balkans and Greece by motorhome: vignette, tolls, borders, ferries and October](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/eu-balkans-greece-by-motorhome/) *From Mycenae and Tiryns via Argos and Nafplio to the theatre of Epidaurus, then on to the volcanic Methana peninsula and the pine-clad coast around Ermioni and Porto Heli: about 550 kilometres in eight stages, with antiquity never more than a quarter of an hour from the beach.* ## The spirit of the route From your sliding door you look out in the morning on orange groves with the bare mountains of the Argolis behind them, at midday on turquoise bays, in the evening on the Venetian bastions of Nafplio against the light. The Argolis is small, so several eras sit close together here: the Cyclopean walls at Tiryns, the Lion Gate at Mycenae, the theatre of Epidaurus, where voices still carry to the last row without amplification. Between the sites there is time for citrus groves, fish tavernas and swimming stops on pebble beaches. Further east it gets quiet: on Methana sulphur springs steam by the sea, in the Ermionida the air smells of pine resin, and in Ermioni the boats leave for Hydra. The route is short and the roads are mostly good. A trip for people who like to get around on foot. ## Stage-by-stage plan ### Stage 1: Corinth Canal (Isthmia) to Mycenae (approx. 60 km) - **The drive:** From the isthmus take the old country road or the motorway (A7, toll) into the hinterland of the Argolis: first over the heights of the Dervenakia passes, then the road drops into the wide plain of Argos, dotted with orange and mandarin groves. The turn-off to Mycenae follows a narrow but well-surfaced village road to the citadel on the hillside. Driving time is about an hour; the rest of the day belongs to the site. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Mycenae: the Lion Gate, Grave Circle A with its shaft graves, the cistern and the palace area on the citadel hill, plus the museum at the entrance. Together with Tiryns the site is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. - Treasury of Atreus (beehive tomb) a few minutes’ walk below the citadel (included in the same ticket): a 13 m high corbelled vault of massive conglomerate blocks, which you enter along the long stone dromos. - View from the citadel walls over the plain to the Gulf of Nafplio – best in the late afternoon, when the tour buses have gone. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Mycenae and Camping Atreus are both in the village of Mycenae, a few minutes’ walk from the citadel. Small, family-run sites with shade under orange and olive trees and sanitary facilities; ask in advance about electricity, size limits for motorhomes and the season (many sites close in winter). - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Wild camping is prohibited; in the visitor car parks at the site and at the Treasury you may park only for your visit. The village streets are narrow, and parked motorhomes quickly block buses. - **Insider tip for campers:** The site opens early in the morning. During heatwaves open-air sites are sometimes closed over midday (by order of the Ministry of Culture or the local ephorate) – so go in the morning or only in the late afternoon. The entrance fee also covers the Treasury of Atreus; a combined ticket is available for several sites in the region. Check prices, what the combined ticket covers and opening hours with the Ministry of Culture in advance. Buy water and bread in Fichtia or Argos; the shops in the village are small. ### Stage 2: Mycenae to Tolo via the Heraion, Argos, Lerna and Tiryns (approx. 60 km) - **The drive:** From Mycenae head south to the Heraion of Argos (short spur road, little traffic), then on to Argos – heavy traffic, narrow one-way streets and many zebra crossings, especially around the main street. South of the town, go via Lerna (Myloi) back to the coast road and along the broad national road past the foot of Tiryns to Nafplio and on to Tolo. About two hours of pure driving time in all; the stops turn it into a full day. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Heraion of Argos: terraces of the sanctuary of Hera on the hillside with a view over the plain, rarely crowded – quieter than Mycenae. - Argos: the ancient theatre at the foot of Larissa hill (room for about 20,000 spectators) and above it the medieval Larissa castle with wide views, plus the archaeological museum in the town centre. - Tiryns: Cyclopean walls of huge, unhewn blocks, covered galleries in the east wall and a short circuit with a view of the gulf – right on the road between Argos and Nafplio. - **Official campsite or RV park:** In Tolo and Assini there are many campsites right on the beach: Camping Kastraki (Assini), Camping Xeni, Camping Lido, Sunset and Assini Beach. Electricity, sanitary facilities and shade are the norm; check dump/fill points and season dates (often spring to autumn) in advance. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Camping on the beach at Tolo is prohibited; the municipality carries out checks, at night too in high summer. Park your vehicle correctly and without an extended awning, table or chairs – in Greece that already counts as camping. - **Insider tip for campers:** Argos is hard to cross in a motorhome: use the bypass and park on the edge of town or on the hills near Larissa; from the theatre the castle is reachable on foot. At Tiryns parking at the site is limited; do not expect space for larger motorhomes and, if necessary, park a little further away. The plain of Argos is a major citrus-growing area – in winter farmers sell oranges and mandarins by the crate at the roadside. ### Stage 3: Tolo to Plaka/Drepano via Nafplio (approx. 30 km) - **The drive:** A short day for a long town: from Tolo take the coast road a good ten kilometres to Nafplio, finishing through roundabouts and past parking areas at the harbour. The old town itself is unsuitable for motorhomes. After your visit to the town, continue east on the coast road to Plaka and Drepano, the stretch of beach on the Argolic Gulf. Driving time is only about half an hour, which leaves time for walking. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Palamidi fortress above the town: a Venetian bulwark of the early 18th century with several bastions; the stair climb has around 850 steps (often called the “999 steps”; a staircase, not a hiking trail), with a wide view over the bay at the top. - Old town and Syntagma Square with Venetian houses, balconies, bougainvillea and small museums – from 1829 to 1834 Nafplio was the first capital of the new Greek state. - The Arvanitia promenade around the rock of Akronafplia with a view of the island fortress of Bourtzi in the harbour; boat trips there leave from the harbour. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Between Plaka and Drepano you will find Triton II, New Triton, Argolic Strand and Lefka Beach right on the coast; Camping Plaka Beach is also listed. Electricity and sanitary facilities are the norm; ask in advance about motorhome facilities (dump/fill points, size, shade) and the season. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the car parks in Nafplio motorhomes are often welcome for only a few hours; at night camping remains prohibited and the police check the harbour zone. Park the vehicle only for your visit. - **Insider tip for campers:** Leave the motorhome at the campsite and go to Nafplio by scheduled bus (KTEL Argolidas, check the connection in advance), taxi or bicycle – that saves the search for a parking space. It is better to climb the stairs to Palamidi early in the morning or in the evening; in summer the rock is extremely hot at midday. The fortress can also be reached by a road to the east side, but parking at the top is limited – not for larger motorhomes. Opening hours change with the season (earlier closing in winter). ### Stage 4: Plaka/Drepano to Palaia Epidavros via Epidaurus (approx. 55 km) - **The drive:** From Nafplio go through olive groves and over the heights to Ligourio (wide country road, only a few bends), then take the minor road to the sanctuary of Asclepius at Epidaurus and on to the coast at Palaia Epidavros. The stretch to the sanctuary is well built, and the car park at the sanctuary is large and designed for cars and coaches. Driving time is a good hour; in high summer expect tour buses and high heat in the afternoon. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Sanctuary of Asclepius: not just the theatre but also the tholos, the abaton halls, the stadium and the remains of the ancient hospital; the museum at the entrance shows medical instruments and votive offerings. - The theatre of Epidaurus in the morning light or as the sun sinks, when it is almost empty; in summer (June to August) performances of the Athens Epidaurus Festival, usually starting at 9 pm. - Palaia Epidavros: a small bay with tavernas, an ancient theatre on the hillside and fishing boats in the harbour. - **Official campsite or RV park:** In Palaia Epidavros Camping Verdelis, Nicolas II, Nicolas I and Bekas Beach lie right on the beach; further north in Nea Epidavros there is Camping Nea Epidavros. Shade and sanitary facilities are the norm; ask in advance about dump/fill points, electricity and opening times (often May to October). - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the visitor car park at the sanctuary you may park during the day but not stay overnight; overnighting on the beach with an awning and chairs counts as camping and costs €300 per person. - **Insider tip for campers:** The festival evenings start late and end at night – reserve tickets early and allow for the drive back to the campsite in the dark; the country roads are not lit throughout, and a torch helps in the car park. If you do not want to go to the theatre: a visit in the morning is enough, followed by a swimming break in Palaia Epidavros. ### Stage 5: Palaia Epidavros to Methana (day loop via Troezen) (approx. 110 km) - **The drive:** From Palaia Epidavros via Nea Epidavros and through the Troizinia (pine forests, lemon groves, citrus gardens) to Troezen. Check the exact route in your satnav beforehand; the minor roads are narrow. From Troezen the road continues onto the Methana peninsula, which is joined to the mainland by a narrow land bridge. The peninsula is volcanic: a steep, narrow coast road, tight hairpins, few passing places. Allow a whole day for the loop back to the campsite, including stops. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Devil’s Bridge (Diavologefyro) in the small gorge near Troezen: an ancient arched bridge that carried spring water across the gorge, in a protected nature area; about 15 minutes’ walk along a track from the fork near the excavations. Nearby are the ancient ruins of Troezen by the village of Troizina (formerly Damala). - Methana: a volcanic area with around 30 volcanic edifices, mostly lava domes. The last eruption, at the Kameni Chora dome, is dated in ancient sources to about 230 BC; the dark, rugged rocks of the lava domes can be seen at Kameni Chora and on Kameni Vouno. - Vromolimni (Sulphur Bay) near Methana town: turquoise water, sulphurous springs and bathing fun; old spa baths in the town. - **Official campsite or RV park:** We know of no campsite or aire with dump/fill points on the Methana peninsula. So plan Methana as a day loop and sleep again in Palaia Epidavros or at Camping Nea Epidavros. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** On Methana there are local parking bans at the bays in high season, and in summer the authorities close hiking trails and access roads when the wildfire risk is high. Camping remains prohibited everywhere. - **Insider tip for campers:** The road around the peninsula is hardly suitable for motorhomes over 7 m – park on the edge of Methana town and go on foot. Bring swimwear you do not mind getting stained: the sulphur water smells strong and can discolour swimwear. Start the hike to the lava domes on Kameni Vouno only in the cool hours, and take water and sturdy footwear. ### Stage 6: Palaia Epidavros to Ermioni (approx. 80 km) - **The drive:** From Palaia Epidavros via Ligourio and Didyma south into the Ermionida: gentle hills, pine forests, olive groves, with repeated views of the sea. Parts of the road are narrow, with goats and sheep on the carriageway. The route via Kranidi to Ermioni passes through small villages with tight main streets (from Nafplio to Ermioni it is about 72 km). Check the route in your satnav beforehand; motorhomes over 7 m are best off avoiding the villages. Driving time about two hours. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Ermioni: a harbour town on a peninsula with a seafront promenade, pine forest on the Bisti peninsula and fish tavernas at the water’s edge; boats to Hydra leave from here. - Bisti hill with ancient remains of Hermione and a view of the offshore islands of Dokos and Hydra. - Didyma: one of the largest sinkholes in Greece, with a small chapel in the collapse crater, north of Kranidi – a short walk. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Hydra’s Wave Camping on the coast about 6 km east of Ermioni, listed as a campsite in OpenStreetMap: electricity, sanitary facilities, shade, close to the beach. Ask in advance about dump/fill points, season and size limits. We currently know of no campsites in Kranidi and Porto Heli. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Beaches in the Ermionida and car parks at the harbour of Ermioni are popular, but camping is prohibited and is checked in season. Use the campsite. - **Insider tip for campers:** The boats to Hydra leave from the harbour of Ermioni (vehicles stay on land; cars are not allowed on Hydra). Check timetables in advance and go in the morning, when it is quieter. Fill up with fuel in Kranidi; petrol stations are few and far between in the Ermionida. ### Stage 7: Ermioni to Ermioni (day loop to Porto Heli) (approx. 70 km) - **The drive:** From Ermioni via Kranidi to the bay of Koilada and on to Porto Heli, a large, deeply indented natural harbour. The road is decently surfaced but in summer full of rental cars and delivery traffic. Return to Ermioni on the coast road; the way back runs through pine forest. Driving time a good two hours; with swimming and a stroll round town, a full day. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Porto Heli: a wide bay with yachts, a promenade and cafés; on the opposite side lies ancient Halieis with its city wall and harbour remains. - Koilada (Kilada) with its sheltered bay; the Stone Age Franchthi Cave lies across the bay from the village. Do not plan on it as a regular visitor site: ask the Ephorate of Antiquities of Argolis in advance whether and how access is possible. - Kosta: a small harbour from which water taxis (year-round, prices according to the official list, book in advance) and scheduled boats leave for the car-free island of Spetses; the scheduled boats run infrequently in the low season. - **Official campsite or RV park:** We know of no campsites in Porto Heli and Koilada; you spend the night again at the campsite near Ermioni. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The waterfront car parks in Porto Heli are overcrowded in summer; camping is not tolerated here either. If you park at Kosta for the boat to Spetses, use the designated areas. - **Insider tip for campers:** The coast around Porto Heli is a sailing area and expensive in summer: buy groceries in Kranidi or Ermioni instead. Gas bottles and autogas are only found sporadically in the Ermionida – fill up beforehand in Nafplio or Argos. ### Stage 8: Ermioni to Tolo (approx. 85 km) - **The drive:** From Ermioni via Kranidi and Didyma back inland to Ligourio, and from there on the familiar route to Nafplio and Tolo (Nafplio–Ermioni about 72 km). The drive crosses hill passes with bends and goes through villages; for motorhome drivers the rule is: start early and plan breaks. A good two hours in all. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Ligourio: a market square with tavernas, a good stop halfway. - Viewpoints over the bay of Nafplio on the approach – a chance for a last look at Palamidi and Bourtzi. - A farewell swim on the beach at Kastraki near Assini with a view of the citadel plateau of ancient Asine. - **Official campsite or RV park:** To finish, a site near Tolo or Assini again (Kastraki, Xeni, Lido). If you want to continue north, you will find Camping Isthmia Beach at the Corinth Canal. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Even on departure the rule holds: camp only at the campsite; on the beach and on the mole you may only park. - **Insider tip for campers:** Fill up and empty your tanks before moving on: on the way to the canal and to the ferries at Patras there are few dump/fill stations. More on onward travel in the CampingSpirit guide to the Peloponnese circuit and, further south, to Mani and Laconia. ## Camping practice & local rules ### Wild camping & overnight parking - Wild camping is prohibited in Greece (Law 5170/2025), with a fine of €300 per person. Anything outside the outline of the vehicle counts as camping: awning, table, chairs, grill, extended levelling jacks, washing line – also on beaches, in forests and at archaeological sites. - Parking is governed by Road Traffic Law 5209/2025 (Art. 38), clarified by a police circular of 2026: within built-up areas motorhomes up to 7.5 m may park without a time limit, longer motorhomes and caravans for a maximum of 24 hours at a stretch; outside built-up areas, in designated areas or at the right edge of the carriageway without a time limit, provided no ban applies. According to the police, staying in a correctly parked vehicle, including at night, is not an offence. Local bans take precedence. - Campsites are concentrated at Tolo/Assini, Plaka/Drepano, Mycenae and Palaia Epidavros; we know of none in Nafplio, Argos, Methana and Porto Heli. For the Ermionida we currently know of only one site near Ermioni. Plan day loops from these bases. - Archaeological sites and protected areas (Mycenae, Tiryns, Epidaurus, Methana) have their own rules: drones, tripods and picnics are mostly prohibited. Useful apps: park4night and Campercontact (read the entries critically, many former beach spots now carry prohibition signs) as well as the daily fire-danger map of the civil protection authority. ### Waste disposal & supplies - Water supply and waste disposal are practically only available at campsites; fill up with fresh water and empty your cassette before Methana and the Ermionida, because no public stations are known there. - Never discharge grey water at beach car parks, streams or in sinkholes and springs; the springs in the Argolis feed irrigation and drinking water. - Tap water is usually drinkable in towns; in coastal places it often tastes of chlorine or salt, so use bottled water then. At campsites check the drinking-water taps. - Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged. Autogas (LPG, “υγραέριο”) is available only at individual petrol stations, for example in and around Nafplio, Argos and Corinth (check beforehand with an app); for refillable cylinders bring an adapter set with a dish adapter. ### Vehicle size & traffic rules - Speed limits: since January 2026 the limit in built-up areas is generally 30 km/h, and 50 km/h on multi-lane or physically separated main roads. Outside built-up areas and on motorways, lower limits apply to motorhomes and combinations than to cars (motorway, cars 130 km/h); vehicles over 3.5 t may do at most 80 km/h on the motorway. Signage takes precedence. - Tolls: the Moreas motorway (A7 Corinth–Tripoli) charges by vehicle class; two-axle vehicles over 2.20 m in height fall into class 3 and pay a good double the car rate. The country roads of the Argolis are toll-free. - Tight village streets: Argos, Ligourio, Kranidi and the villages of the Troizinia have narrow lanes and one-way streets; the old town of Nafplio is unsuitable for motorhomes. On the Methana peninsula the roads are steep and narrow. - Heat and wildfire: in July and August temperatures often rise above 35 °C; during heatwaves open-air sites close temporarily over midday. In the fire season (May to October) the authorities close forests and protected areas to vehicles on days of high danger; open fires and grilling are then prohibited. Heed warnings via 112 and civilprotection.gov.gr. - The blood-alcohol limit is 0.5, lower for novice drivers and professional drivers; phones at the wheel only with a hands-free system. Mark bicycles on a rear rack clearly; a red-and-white warning panel is the safe solution. ## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist - Sun hat, sun protection and at least two litres of water per person for the sites at Mycenae, Tiryns and Epidaurus – there is hardly any shade there. - Sturdy footwear with tread for the steps to Palamidi and the paths on Methana (lava rock is sharp and slippery). - Water shoes for the pebble beaches of the Argolis and the sulphur bay of Vromolimni. - Bicycles or a folding bike for the stretch Tolo–Nafplio and Nafplio–Arvanitia; saves the search for parking. - Torch for the way back from the Epidaurus theatre after evening performances. - Fire extinguisher and fire blanket within reach – the pine forests of the Ermionida are prone to fire. _As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._ ## Sources - [Wikipedia – Methana Volcano (rund 32 Vulkane, Dom von Kameni Chora, Ausbruch 230 v. Chr.)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methana_Volcano) - [Athens-Attica.com – Diavologefyro, die Teufelsbrücke von Troizina (antike Bogenbrücke, Koordinaten)](https://athensattica.com/point/diavologefyro-the-devils-bridge-troizina/) - [Visit Nafplio – Trizina (Zugang zu Ausgrabungen, Teufelsbrücke, Nafplio–Trizina rund 65 km)](https://visitnafplio.com/trizina.html) - [Discover Nafplio – Palamidi (Stufen, Zufahrt Ostseite, saisonale Öffnungszeiten)](https://www.discovernafplio.gr/en/articles/archaeological-sites/palamidi) - [Discover Nafplio – Antikes Theater Epidauros, Programm 2026 (Juni bis August, 21 Uhr, Parkplatz)](https://www.discovernafplio.gr/en/articles/epidaurus-festival/ancient-theater-epidaurus-performances-program-2026) - [Greeka – Franchthi-Höhle (Zugang für Besucher geplant, nicht regulär geöffnet)](https://www.greeka.com/peloponnese/ermioni/news/general/francthi-cave-will-open-for-visitors/) - [Wikipedia – Franchthi Cave (Lage gegenüber Kiladha, Koordinaten)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franchthi_Cave) - [Greeka – Wassertaxis auf Spetses (Hafen Kosta, ganzjährig, offizielle Preisliste)](https://greeka.com/saronic/spetses/transportations/water-taxis) - [Visit Nafplio – Ermioni (Nafplio–Ermioni 72 km, Didyma, Bisti, KTEL)](https://visitnafplio.com/ermioni.html) - [Hellenisches Kulturministerium – Archäologisches Museum Mykene (Öffnungszeiten, Ticket inkl. Stätte)](https://archaeologicalmuseums.culture.gov.gr/en/museum/5df34af3deca5e2d79e8c1be) - [Argophilia – Hitzebedingte Schließungen archäologischer Stätten (Anordnung durch regionale Ephorien)](https://www.argophilia.com/news/greece-archaeological-sites-heat-closures/243375/) - [OpenStreetMap-Mitwirkende – Campingplätze Griechenland (Abgleich Mykene, Tolo/Assini, Plaka/Drepano, Palaia Epidavros, Hydra’s Wave, Isthmia)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/) ## Which stops are on the route from Isthmia to Porto Cheli? 1. **Isthmia** (Greece) 2. **Mykines** (Greece) 3. **Argos** (Greece) 4. **Tiryntha** (Greece) 5. **Nafplio** (Greece) 6. **Tolo** (Greece) 7. **Epidavros** (Greece) 8. **Palaia Epidavros** (Greece) 9. **Troizina** (Greece) 10. **Methana** (Greece) 11. **Ermioni** (Greece) 12. **Kranidi** (Greece) 13. **Porto Cheli** (Greece) ## When is the best time for the route from Isthmia to Porto Cheli? The most pleasant months are usually April–May and October–November. Still fine, with some compromises, in March, June, September and December. Hot in July–August. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons) ## What should you know before driving the route from Isthmia to Porto Cheli? Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €7 (Greece). - **Greece: Motorway tolls.** Motorway limit for cars: 130 km/h. ## FAQs **How long is Cyclopean walls, fortress steps and a theatre under the stars – through the Argolis by motorhome?** 8-day road trip of about 198 km (123 mi) with 13 stops, from Isthmia to Porto Cheli. About 2 h 44 min of driving in total. **How many days do you need for Cyclopean walls, fortress steps and a theatre under the stars – through the Argolis by motorhome?** We suggest 8 days: about 2 h 44 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops. **Where does Cyclopean walls, fortress steps and a theatre under the stars – through the Argolis by motorhome start and end?** It starts in Isthmia and ends in Porto Cheli. **Which countries does Cyclopean walls, fortress steps and a theatre under the stars – through the Argolis by motorhome pass through?** Greece. **Where can you camp along Cyclopean walls, fortress steps and a theatre under the stars – through the Argolis by motorhome?** OpenStreetMap lists 29 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Camping Alkioni, Camping Scala and Iria Beach Camping. **How much are the tolls on the route from Isthmia to Porto Cheli?** Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €7 (Greece). Estimate with typical rates; motorhomes pay more, and vehicles over 3.5 t often pay by distance.