# Cellar lanes, storks and Thaya loops: by camper through the Marchfeld and Weinviertel to Thayatal National Park > From Vienna through the Marchfeld to Schloss Hof, via Zistersdorf, Poysdorf and Laa an der Thaya to Retz and into Thayatal National Park, back via… Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-626-weinviertel-marchfeld-thayatal/ **At a glance:** 8-day round trip of about 348 km (216 mi) with 14 stops, starting and ending in Vienna. About 4 h 48 min of driving in total. Best time to go: May–June and August–September. Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €13 (Austria, Vignette). From Vienna through the Marchfeld to Schloss Hof, via Zistersdorf, Poysdorf and Laa an der Thaya to Retz and into Thayatal National Park, back via Hollabrunn and the Leiser Berge: around 385 kilometres on small roads between loess ridges, press houses and rows of vines. | | | |---|---| | Distance | approx. 348 km (216 mi) | | Driving | 4 h 48 min | | Suggested days | 8 | | Stops | 14 | | Route | Vienna → Vienna | | Countries | Austria | | Best time to go | May–June and August–September | | Tolls and vignettes | ≈ €13 | | Updated | October 1, 2026 | [Download GPX file](https://camping-spirit.com/gpx/rf-626-weinviertel-marchfeld-thayatal.gpx) Practical guides for this route: [Switzerland and Austria by motorhome: vignettes, limits and overnight rules](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/eu-switzerland-austria-by-motorhome/) *From Vienna through the Marchfeld to Schloss Hof, via Zistersdorf, Poysdorf and Laa an der Thaya to Retz and into Thayatal National Park, back via Hollabrunn and the Leiser Berge: around 385 kilometres on small roads between loess ridges, press houses and rows of vines.* ## The spirit of the route North of Vienna the land turns wide and quiet. Beyond the Marchfeld, where storks circle above the fields and Prince Eugene’s palace stands on the plain, the Weinviertel rolls north in gentle waves: loess ridges, wind turbines, rows of vines to the horizon. On the edge of each village are the Kellergassen, lines of whitewashed press houses where the Grüner Veltliner matures and glasses clink in the evening. From the open sliding door you see hilltops with castle ruins, mills and church towers, and smell hay, warm loam and, in autumn, ripe grapes. The further north-west you drive, the rockier the land becomes, until the Thaya winds in deep loops through the national park. This is not a route for distance records but for short stages, bike rides between the vineyards and evenings when the winemaker fetches one more bottle from the cellar. ## Stage-by-stage plan ### Stage 1: Vienna to Marchegg (Marchfeld and Schloss Hof) (approx. 70 km) - **The drive:** From Vienna on provincial roads across the flat Marchfeld: Orth an der Donau, Eckartsau and Engelhartstetten, then on to Schloss Hof and Marchegg on the March. Almost straight stretches, little traffic outside commuter times, a few narrow village centres. A good two hours with breaks, driving time alone is clearly less. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Schloss Hof: the baroque country estate of Prince Eugene, later extended by Maria Theresa, with terraced gardens and a farm with animals – opening hours and admission vary with the season, please check with the operator. - Orth an der Donau and Eckartsau on the edge of the Donau-Auen National Park: visitor centre in Schloss Orth and the hunting lodge at Eckartsau, where Emperor Charles lived from his renunciation of government duties in 1918 until he left for exile in March 1919. - Marchegg stork reserve: most of the storks breed here in the trees of a colony in the WWF floodplain reserve; it is considered one of the largest white stork colonies in Central Europe. The nests are occupied during the breeding season from spring into summer; outside it, the floodplain forest stays empty. - **Official campsite or RV park:** MarchCamping Zwerndorf on the March, a few kilometres north of Marchegg: campsite with pitches for motorhomes, with electricity and sanitary facilities according to directories; ask about season dates and opening outside summer in advance. If you start in Vienna, you will find several campsites on the edge of the city and can keep the first day short. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Lower Austria prohibits parking and camping on open green land outside approved sites, and in the Donau-Auen National Park and the March floodplains the rule to stay on paths and the night-time quiet for wildlife are strictly enforced. We know of no permission to overnight on the visitor car park at Schloss Hof; ask the operator in advance instead of trying your luck. - **Insider tip for campers:** The centre of Orth is narrow; on fine weekends excursion coaches and cycling groups are out, so plan your pass-through accordingly. The March cycle path along the border river is flat and ideal for an evening ride. In stork season binoculars are worth bringing, and there are plenty of mosquitoes (Gelsen) in the floodplains. ### Stage 2: Marchegg to Niedersulz (via Zistersdorf) (approx. 55 km) - **The drive:** North-westwards on provincial roads through the eastern Weinviertel to Zistersdorf, then on to Niedersulz. Wide fields, oil production sites by the roadside and the first Kellergassen on the edge of villages. Easy to follow and without any significant gradients, a good hour’s driving. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Zistersdorf: Oil and Gas Museum: oil has been produced around Zistersdorf since the 1930s, and to this day a large share of domestic output comes from the Weinviertel; pumpjacks still stand in the landscape. Check opening hours in advance. - Weinviertel Open-Air Museum Niedersulz: open-air museum with historic farmhouses, press houses and old craft workshops, good for half a day; it opens seasonally, so check dates in advance. - Kellergasse on the edge of the village: Lower Austria has over a thousand Kellergassen, most of them in the Weinviertel – walk one on foot and look at the whitewash and the loess-loam walls. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Motorhome pitch at the Niedersulz open-air museum: small site with few pitches, with electricity and waste disposal according to directories, charged; check facilities and opening outside the museum season in advance. Alternatively the pitch in Mistelbach, also small and basic. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Weinviertel many Kellergassen stand on the winemakers’ private land; stay overnight there only on express invitation. On field tracks and farm roads in open green land, parking overnight is prohibited. - **Insider tip for campers:** Fill up and shop in Zistersdorf or Mistelbach: between the villages there are often many kilometres without a petrol station. Do not drive a motorhome into the Kellergassen themselves – sunken lanes and reversing turns are rarely possible. ### Stage 3: Niedersulz to Poysdorf (via Falkenstein) (approx. 45 km) - **The drive:** From Niedersulz northwards on provincial roads to Falkenstein and on to Poysdorf. Hilly wine country, village centres with tight bends, and a constant eye out for tractors and cyclists. The shortest stage – with time for winemaker visits. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Falkenstein castle ruin: views across the Weinviertel towards South Moravia, reached by a short climb from the car park. - Poysdorf: wine town in the Veltlinerland, with Heurigen, wine estates and Kellergassen around the town. - Wine tasting at the winemaker’s: the Grüner Veltliner with the peppery note (“Pfefferl”) carries its origin in its name as Weinviertel DAC – ask for the Klassik line. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Veltlinerlandcamping Poysdorf on the edge of town: campsite with pitches for motorhomes, with electricity and sanitary facilities according to directories. Ask about season and opening hours before you arrive. In Falkenstein there is a basic motorhome pitch by the castle ruin area. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Many Weinviertel winemakers offer pitches for guests; the usual condition is a purchase and a booking by phone. This does not count as wild camping, but it is not a legal entitlement. - **Insider tip for campers:** Buy wine only on the day you leave: bottles in the vehicle shift in the cupboard and clink on cobbles. Heurigen are often open only on certain days (see the region’s Ausg’steckt calendar); paying in cash is often the norm. ### Stage 4: Poysdorf to Hadres (via Staatz and Laa an der Thaya) (approx. 50 km) - **The drive:** From Poysdorf north-westwards to Staatz with the crag above the village, on to Laa an der Thaya near the Czech border, then westwards to Hadres. Open country roads with gentle ups and downs, 30 km/h zones in some village centres. A good hour and a half of driving. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Staatzer Klippe: the castle ruin stands on a limestone rock and is visible from afar – a walk up from the village centre. - Laa an der Thaya: remains of the town wall, castle with town museum and the town’s brewing tradition; the thermal baths in town are a good rainy-day option. - Mailberg: winery and castle of the Order of Malta on the way to Hadres, with tasting available. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Motorhome pitch Hadres in the village: small site with few pitches, with electricity and water according to directories; clarify its status and waste disposal in advance. If needed, winemakers in the area offer pitches. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Even in the border area with the Czech Republic, parking on open green land and on field tracks remains prohibited, even if it feels quiet and unobserved. - **Insider tip for campers:** A side trip across the border into South Moravia (for example Hevlín near Laa) is possible without border controls; take ID. On Czech motorways and expressways, vehicles up to 3.5 t need an electronic vignette tied to the licence plate, heavier vehicles pay a distance-based toll. Prices for shopping and fuel differ across the border, and you pay in crowns. ### Stage 5: Hadres to Retz (approx. 20 km) - **The drive:** Westwards through the Retzer Land, one of the driest and sunniest wine regions in Austria. Gentle hills, fruit trees and vineyard terraces, narrow village passages near Retz. A good half hour of driving. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Retz windmill: the town’s landmark, on a hill above the vineyards; visit it on a walk from the edge of town. - Retzer Erlebniskeller: a far-branching labyrinth of cellars beneath the old town, accessible only on a guided tour; it is around 8 degrees down there, so pack a warm jacket. Tour times depend on the season. - Main square of Retz with colourful townhouses, town hall and cafés; the square counts among the most beautiful in the Weinviertel. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Motorhome pitch Retz on Znaimer Straße near the old town: small area for motorhomes, with electricity and water according to directories. Winemakers around Retz list their own pitches (for example Weingut Studeny or Weinbau Kruspel); usually usable by guests, ask beforehand. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Around Retz the Lower Austrian ban on camping on green land applies; vineyards and orchards are private land. If you want to sleep without worry, stay on the pitch or at a winemaker’s. - **Insider tip for campers:** Park the motorhome at the pitch and walk into the old town: the gates and lanes are narrow and the main square is closed during events. On the paths to the windmill, bicycles are the better choice. ### Stage 6: Retz to Hardegg (Thayatal National Park) (approx. 20 km) - **The drive:** From Retz north-westwards on provincial roads towards Hardegg, entering the cut of the Thaya valley on the last stretch. The change of landscape from open vineyards to forest and rocky slopes is marked. A good half hour of driving; the end of the approach can be narrow and steep. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Thayatal National Park house with exhibition and starting point of the hiking trails – the park protects one of the last near-natural river valleys in Central Europe. - Circular hike to the Umlaufberg: here the Thaya almost completely encircles a rock ridge; the path is stony in places. - Hardegg castle above the river: the little town is among the smallest in Austria; the border bridge to the Czech Republic is for pedestrians and cyclists only. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Motorhome pitch Thayatal National Park at the national park house on the edge of Hardegg. Facilities, fees and Hardegg’s old town are described in more detail in the CampingSpirit guide “Granit, Klöster und Thayaschleifen”. You will find sanitary facilities at Seecamping Langau on the bathing lake, a good 10 kilometres to the west. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Thayatal National Park, overnighting outside designated sites is prohibited, the rule to stay on paths applies strictly and dogs must be on a lead. The wildcat and the black stork are among the shy residents. - **Insider tip for campers:** Leave the motorhome at the pitch by the national park house and walk into the village: the road into the old town is narrow, turning spaces are scarce, and with long vehicles a call to the municipality or the national park administration beforehand is worthwhile. Take ID for the walk across the border bridge. ### Stage 7: Hardegg to Hollabrunn (approx. 50 km) - **The drive:** From Hardegg back via Retz and Zellerndorf to Hollabrunn, mostly on provincial roads. The land opens up again, Kellergassen line the edges of villages. Around an hour of driving, minor climbs before Hollabrunn. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Schöngrabern near Hollabrunn: the Romanesque church with its richly decorated apse is among the best-known medieval works of art in the Weinviertel. - Kellergassen around Hollabrunn: a walk with views of press houses, whitewash and loess – tastings with the winemakers who open their doors. - Bike tours from Hollabrunn: signposted loops through the vineyards, good for the afternoon. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Motorhome pitch Hollabrunn: small area with few places, with electricity and water according to directories; check fees and waste disposal in advance. Alternatively winemakers in the area who offer pitches for guests. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Green land in the Weinviertel is taboo for campers; Kellergassen and field tracks count as such. Anyone found in a vehicle at night risks a fine; winemakers’ pitches are the easy alternative. - **Insider tip for campers:** The grape harvest in September and October brings tractors, mud and busy field tracks: allow more driving time and drive slowly. A Heuriger without a reservation is often full at weekends. ### Stage 8: Hollabrunn to Vienna (via Ernstbrunn and Burg Kreuzenstein) (approx. 75 km) - **The drive:** South-eastwards to Ernstbrunn on the edge of the Leiser Berge, then on provincial roads towards Korneuburg and on to Vienna. Hills and forest at first, later heavy traffic in the Vienna region. Around one and a half to two hours, depending on rush-hour traffic. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Leiser Berge Nature Park with the Buschberg: limestone ridge in flat country, hiking trails and dry grassland. - Wildpark Ernstbrunn: extensive grounds on the edge of the nature park, good for an afternoon with children. - Burg Kreuzenstein near Korneuburg: assembled in the 19th century from medieval building parts, on a hill above the Danube region. - **Official campsite or RV park:** To finish, Donaupark Camping Klosterneuburg directly north of Vienna, from where you can reach the centre by public transport; check the season in advance. Alternatively the pitch in Stockerau. In Ernstbrunn there is a basic pitch at the sports ground. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Vienna region the ban on camping on green land applies, and nature park areas are additionally protected. Use campsites and motorhome pitches. - **Insider tip for campers:** Plan your entry into Vienna outside peak hours. In Vienna itself, leave the motorhome at the campsite or pitch and take public transport into the centre; parking in Vienna is largely managed and awkward for motorhomes. ## Camping practice & local rules ### Wild camping & overnight parking - Camping law in Austria is a matter for the provinces. Lower Austria prohibits setting up or parking motorhomes, caravans and tents on green land outside approved campsites. This applies equally to the Marchfeld, the Weinviertel and the Thayatal; violations are administrative offences, and the size of the fine depends on provincial law. - Kellergassen, vineyards and field tracks are almost always private land. Overnighting there is possible only on the express invitation of a winemaker; many businesses offer their own pitches for guests, which is not wild camping, but not a legal entitlement either. - Donau-Auen National Park and Thayatal National Park: no overnighting outside designated sites, observe the rule to stay on paths and the lead requirement. Nature conservation rules also apply in the Leiser Berge Nature Park and the March floodplains; expect heavy fines in protected areas. - You can overnight legally and quietly on municipal pitches (Retz, Hollabrunn, Hadres, Mistelbach, Ernstbrunn), at campsites and with winemakers. Search via park4night, Campercontact, pitch guides and the Weinviertel tourism sites; facilities and season change, so check the current status in advance. ### Waste disposal & supplies - Water supply and waste disposal are available at campsites and some municipal pitches; in the sparsely populated north-east and between the wine villages, the stations are far apart. Empty grey water and the chemical toilet before each stage and fill up with fresh water. - Empty chemical toilets only at disposal stations, never in Kellergassen, ditches or vineyards. Tap water in Austria is generally drinking water. - Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped everywhere in Austria; Campingaz is widely available in shops. Autogas (LPG) is available in Austria only at some petrol stations, and the connections differ; carry adapters and fill cylinders before the trip. - Supplies: supermarkets and petrol stations in Mistelbach, Zistersdorf, Poysdorf, Laa, Retz and Hollabrunn; in small villages often only inns and Heurigen with rest days. ### Vehicle size & traffic rules - Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t built-up areas 50, open roads 100, motorway 130 km/h. Above 3.5 t the limits are 70 on open roads and 80 km/h on motorways; for combinations the limit depends on trailer load and registration. On some sections additional air-quality speed limits (IG-L) apply. - Toll: up to 3.5 t maximum permissible weight a vignette is required on motorways and expressways (1 day digital only; 10 days, 2 months, year). The sticker vignette is available for 2026 for the last time, from 2027 digital only. If you buy the digital vignette online in the ASFINAG web shop or in the app as a consumer, allow for the 18-day right of withdrawal on the 2-month and annual vignette; bought at points of sale it is valid immediately. Above 3.5 t the distance-based GO toll with GO-Box applies. The provincial roads on the route are vignette-free; motorways and expressways such as the A5 and S3 require a vignette – check the sections in advance. - Dimensions: height 4.00 m, width 2.55 m, length 12 m (combination 18.75 m). In Retz, Hardegg and the wine villages watch for low railway underpasses, narrow archways and weight limits on old bridges. - Winter equipment: from 1 November to 15 April situational obligation in snow, slush or ice; for lorries above 3.5 t winter tyres on one driven axle and the obligation to carry snow chains also apply – whether that applies to a heavy motorhome depends on its registration. The Weinviertel is often foggy and frosty in late autumn. - Form an emergency corridor (Rettungsgasse) in a traffic jam on multi-lane roads, keep a high-visibility vest within reach. Alcohol limit 0.5 per mille, phone calls only with a hands-free system. If a load such as a bike rack projects beyond the rear, it must be marked: up to 1 metre a red cloth is enough, above that a white board (25 × 40 cm) with a red, retroreflective border is required. ## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist - Bikes and helmets: the Marchfeld, the Weinviertel and the March cycle path are flat to gently hilly; between the rows of vines you get further on two wheels than with the motorhome. - Binoculars: for the storks in Marchegg, the birds of the Donau-Auen and the views from the castle ruins. - Tick remover and vaccination record: there is a tick risk in floodplain and woodland areas; the TBE vaccination is common in Austria and recommended for time spent outdoors. - Hiking boots with tread: the Umlaufberg in the Thayatal is stony and slippery after rain, and loess paths in the vineyards turn greasy when wet. - Cool box and padding for wine bottles: padding, cardboard or a wine carrier prevent breakage on cobbles. - Cash and ID: Heurigen and farm shops often take only cash; passport or identity card for side trips across the Thaya into the Czech Republic. _As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._ ## Sources - [Schloss Hof – Besucherinfo (Region, Öffnungszeiten)](https://www.schlosshof.at/besucherinfo/region) - [EuroNatur – Stork Villages: Marchegg, Austria](https://www.euronatur.org/en/what-we-do/bird-conservation-in-europe/stork-villages/marchegg-austria) - [Land Niederösterreich – Landesausstellung Marchegg startet mit Naturschauspielen](https://www.noe.gv.at/noe/Landesausstellung_Marchegg_startet_mit_Naturschauspielen_.html) - [Weinviertel DAC – Weinviertel Kellergassen, Villages without Chimneys](https://www.weinvierteldac.at/en/?p=3022) - [Land Niederösterreich – Saison 2025 im Museumsdorf Niedersulz](https://www.noe.gv.at/noe/Saison_2025_im_Museumsdorf_Niedersulz.html) - [Wikivoyage – Zistersdorf (Erdölförderung seit 1930)](https://de.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Zistersdorf) - [Mamilade – Retzer Erlebniskeller (Führungen, Tiefe, Temperatur)](https://www.mamilade.at/noe/hollabrunn/ausflugstipps/schlechtwetter/retzer-erlebniskeller) - [ADAC – Vignette und Maut in Tschechien](https://www.adac.de/reise-freizeit/maut-vignette/tschechien/) - [Waldviertel Tourismus – Wohnmobil-Stellplatz NP Thayatal](https://www.waldviertel.at/en/a-wohnmobil-stellplatz-np-thayatal) - [Land Niederösterreich – Nationalpark Thayatal](https://www.noe.gv.at/noe/Internationales-Europa/122223_Nationalpark-Thayatal.html) - [OpenStreetMap-Mitwirkende – Camping- und Stellplatzdaten Österreich (ODbL)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/) ## Which stops are on the round trip from Vienna? 1. **Vienna** (Austria) 2. **Orth an der Donau** (Austria) 3. **Marchegg** (Austria) 4. **Zistersdorf** (Austria) 5. **Niedersulz** (Austria) 6. **Falkenstein** (Austria) 7. **Poysdorf** (Austria) 8. **Laa an der Thaya** (Austria) 9. **Hadres** (Austria) 10. **Retz** (Austria) 11. **Hardegg** (Austria) 12. **Hollabrunn** (Austria) 13. **Ernstbrunn** (Austria) 14. **Vienna** (Austria) ## When is the best time for the round trip from Vienna? The most pleasant months are usually May–June and August–September. Still fine, with some compromises, in July and October. Cold, short days in December–February. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons) ## What should you know before driving the round trip from Vienna? Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €13 (Austria, Vignette). - **Austria: Vignette needed for motorways.** Vehicles over 3.5 t need a GO-Box for distance-based tolls. Motorway limit for cars: 130 km/h. ## FAQs **How long is Cellar lanes, storks and Thaya loops: by camper through the Marchfeld and Weinviertel to Thayatal National Park?** 8-day round trip of about 348 km (216 mi) with 14 stops, starting and ending in Vienna. About 4 h 48 min of driving in total. **How many days do you need for Cellar lanes, storks and Thaya loops: by camper through the Marchfeld and Weinviertel to Thayatal National Park?** We suggest 8 days: about 4 h 48 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops. **Where does Cellar lanes, storks and Thaya loops: by camper through the Marchfeld and Weinviertel to Thayatal National Park start and end?** It is a round trip that starts and ends in Vienna. **Which countries does Cellar lanes, storks and Thaya loops: by camper through the Marchfeld and Weinviertel to Thayatal National Park pass through?** Austria. **Where can you camp along Cellar lanes, storks and Thaya loops: by camper through the Marchfeld and Weinviertel to Thayatal National Park?** OpenStreetMap lists 88 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Naturistenpark Lobau Camping, Reisemobil-Stellplatz Wien and MICAMPA Wien Wienerwald. **How much are the tolls on the round trip from Vienna?** Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €13 (Austria, Vignette). Estimate with typical rates; motorhomes pay more, and vehicles over 3.5 t often pay by distance.