# Red kites, dams and dolphin bay – by motorhome through Mid Wales from the Elan Valley to Cardigan Bay > From Rhayader through the Elan Valley and across the Cambrian Mountains to Devil’s Bridge, then via Aberystwyth and Machynlleth along the Cardigan Bay coast… Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-608-mid-wales-cambrian-mountains-cardigan-bay/ **At a glance:** 7-day road trip of about 273 km (170 mi) with 13 stops, from Rhayader to Cardigan. About 3 h 47 min of driving in total. Best time to go: June–July. No motorway tolls or vignettes expected for a car. From Rhayader through the Elan Valley and across the Cambrian Mountains to Devil’s Bridge, then via Aberystwyth and Machynlleth along the Cardigan Bay coast to Cardigan: about 415 kilometres through the quietest part of Wales, driving on the left and with plenty of time for single-track roads. | | | |---|---| | Distance | approx. 273 km (170 mi) | | Driving | 3 h 47 min | | Suggested days | 7 | | Stops | 13 | | Route | Rhayader → Cardigan | | Countries | United Kingdom | | Best time to go | June–July | | Tolls and vignettes | None expected | | Updated | October 1, 2026 | [Download GPX file](https://camping-spirit.com/gpx/rf-608-mid-wales-cambrian-mountains-cardigan-bay.gpx) Practical guides for this route: [By motorhome to Britain and Ireland: entry, driving on the left, tolls and overnighting](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/eu-uk-ireland-by-motorhome/), [Alpine passes in a motorhome: gradients, closures and tunnels](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/eu-alpine-passes-camper/) *From Rhayader through the Elan Valley and across the Cambrian Mountains to Devil’s Bridge, then via Aberystwyth and Machynlleth along the Cardigan Bay coast to Cardigan: about 415 kilometres through the quietest part of Wales, driving on the left and with plenty of time for single-track roads.* ## The spirit of the route Mid Wales is the Wales most people drive past on the way between Snowdonia and Pembrokeshire – and that is exactly why it feels like a small country of its own. Beyond Rhayader, Victorian dams hold back the water of the Elan Valley, and at night the sky above the ridges is full of stars, with no city glow at all. The road west climbs into the bare moorland of the Cambrian Mountains, red kites circle over Plynlimon, and at Devil’s Bridge the Mynach tumbles through a gorge spanned by three bridges stacked one above the other. Below lies Cardigan Bay: Aberystwyth with its slate roofs and steam train, Machynlleth with its weekly market and an eco-centre in an old slate quarry, and later dolphins off New Quay. From your sliding door you will see sheep, rainbows and cloud shadows, and in the evening the air smells of peat, wet grass and chimney smoke. This route rewards a relaxed pace and warm socks. ## Stage-by-stage plan ### Stage 1: Rhayader (Rhaeadr Gwy) to Elan Valley and back to Rhayader (approx. 40 km) - **The drive:** From Rhayader take the B4518 west into the Elan Valley (about 3 miles, roughly 5 km, to the visitor centre). The road is tarmac but twisty and narrow in places; beyond the visitor centre you pass Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg and Craig Goch at the end of the road. According to the Elan Valley Trust, large vehicles should not drive through Llanwrthwl on the A470 but continue to Rhayader and turn left there at the Memorial Clock. With stops, allow half a day to a full day. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - The dams from Caban Coch to Craig Goch: water for Birmingham, Victorian construction in natural stone, with a waterfall overflow after rain. - Visitor centre and Elan Village, the model village built for the dam workers; from here you can walk along the shore and around Garreg Ddu. - Gigrin Farm near Rhayader: red kite feeding with viewing hides, every afternoon (around 3 pm in the summer half-year, around 2 pm in the winter half-year; check times in advance). - **Official campsite or RV park:** Wyeside Camping and Caravanning Club Site near Rhayader (club site with a motorhome service point, pitches with and without hook-up; the site lies in a flood area, so follow the site’s instructions on vehicles and check the non-member rules and season in advance); as a smaller alternative, Doliago Farm Camp Site in the Wye Valley south of the town (found only as an OpenStreetMap entry, so ask about facilities and motorhome suitability beforehand). - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** There is no right to roam for campers in Wales. The car parks at the dams are for parking; we have no confirmation that overnighting in the Elan Valley is permitted – if you want to stay there, ask the Elan Valley Trust, which lists contact details on its website. The valley is an International Dark Sky Park; for stargazing, an evening visit to the visitor centre is worthwhile, but check the dates in advance. - **Insider tip for campers:** Fill up and shop in Rhayader; in the valley there is only the café at the visitor centre. Parking in the Elan Valley is charged; check payment methods in advance. Mobile signal drops out in the valley: download the map offline, and plan the Gigrin feeding before you drive into the valley. ### Stage 2: Rhayader to Devil’s Bridge (Pontarfynach) (approx. 55 km) - **The drive:** Take the A470 north to Llangurig, turn left there onto the A44 across the high ground at Plynlimon (Pumlumon), pass Ponterwyd and turn onto the A4120 down to Devil’s Bridge. A well-made country road with open views over moor and forest; only the last stretch of the A4120 is narrower and twisty. About 1.5 hours of driving. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Bwlch Nant yr Arian near Ponterwyd: forest visitor centre with lakes, cycle trails and red kites that are fed daily. - Plynlimon (Pumlumon Fawr): source area of the Severn, Wye and Rheidol, a good viewpoint from the A44. - Devil’s Bridge: three bridges stacked over the Mynach gorge, and a steep path to the waterfalls (admission charge, steps with around 100 stairs). - **Official campsite or RV park:** Woodlands Touring Park near Devil’s Bridge (listed in OpenStreetMap as a campsite with sanitary facilities; other sites nearby, such as Erwbarfe Farm). Ask about facilities, hook-up and opening times in advance. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Overnighting and camping are not intended in the car parks at Bwlch Nant yr Arian or on the high ground of the A44; the forest belongs to the forestry authority. Plan to spend the night on a campsite. - **Insider tip for campers:** Use the Vale of Rheidol Railway steam train in the summer half-year as a counterpoint: it runs between Aberystwyth and Devil’s Bridge (narrow gauge, about 12 miles). Check the timetable and season beforehand, as it does not run all year. The A4120 down into the Rheidol Valley is steep; use a low gear. ### Stage 3: Devil’s Bridge to Aberystwyth via Strata Florida and Tregaron (approx. 70 km) - **The drive:** South on the B4343 through the Ystwyth uplands to Pontrhydfendigaid, on to Tregaron and from there on the A485 north-west via Llanilar to Aberystwyth. Narrow stretches without a centre line, little traffic, a few passing places; about 2 hours of pure driving time. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Strata Florida (Ystrad Fflur): ruins of a Cistercian abbey in the Teifi Valley, a Cadw site with a small exhibition. - Tregaron and the Cors Caron bog: boardwalks through a raised-bog nature reserve, often with geese and kites in autumn. - Aberystwyth: harbour and seafront promenade, the castle ruins on the headland and the National Library of Wales on Penglais Road with free exhibitions. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Clwb Rugby Aberystwyth Motorhome Park on the edge of town (found only as an OpenStreetMap entry with around 10 pitches; ask the club about the operator, access and availability before you rely on it). Alternatives: Aber Camping in the Rheidol area, or Riverside Caravan and Camping Park north of the town near Tal-y-bont; check facilities and motorhome suitability in advance. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Parking restrictions apply on the Aberystwyth seafront and can affect motorhomes at night: press reports mention a permanent overnight ban for vehicles equipped for sleeping or cooking on New Promenade and South Marine Terrace. Watch the signs and, if in doubt, ask Ceredigion council. During the day, parking on the promenade is charged. Expect checks throughout the town. - **Insider tip for campers:** Fill up and shop in Aberystwyth; after that there are few opportunities before Machynlleth. In town the coastal streets are narrow and busy in summer, so it is better to leave the centre in the afternoon; plan on seafront parking only during the day. ### Stage 4: Aberystwyth to Machynlleth and the Centre for Alternative Technology (approx. 45 km) - **The drive:** Take the A487 north through Bow Street, then make a detour on the B4353 to Borth and the dunes at Ynyslas, return to the A487 and continue via Tal-y-bont and Eglwysfach to Machynlleth. The Centre for Alternative Technology (CAT) lies about 3 miles north of the town near Pantperthog on the A487. Well-made road, with a few narrow points only in the Dyfi Valley. About 1 hour of driving without stops. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Dyfi National Nature Reserve at Ynyslas: dunes, salt marsh and mudflats, part of the Dyfi UNESCO Biosphere, with a visitor centre. - Borth: at low tide the remains of a submerged forest are visible on the beach; next to it the Cors Fochno raised bog. - Centre for Alternative Technology: showcase site for sustainable energy, building and gardening in an old slate quarry, with a water-powered cliff railway. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Llwyngwern Farm near Pantperthog, a few minutes from CAT (Campercontact lists the farm with campervan pitches, hook-up for a fee and free disposal of chemical toilets; clarify booking, season and suitability for large motorhomes by phone beforehand). Alternatives: Cwmrhwyddfor Campsite or Cedris Farm Campsite in the hills north of Machynlleth. Check facilities and opening times in advance. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Overnighting is not intended in the nature reserves of Ynyslas and Cors Fochno or in the car parks at Borth; in Machynlleth local rules apply. Do not park on the edges of villages, at walkers’ car parks or in field entrances: in this area that quickly leads to complaints. - **Insider tip for campers:** Allow several hours for CAT; check admission and opening times, including the season, on the CAT website. With a large motorhome, ask about parking and access beforehand. In Machynlleth market day is traditionally Wednesday and the main street is then packed – arrive earlier. ### Stage 5: Machynlleth to Aberdyfi, Tywyn and Tal-y-llyn (round trip from Machynlleth) (approx. 65 km) - **The drive:** West on the A493 along the Dyfi estuary to Pennal and Aberdyfi, on to Tywyn, then inland on the B4405 via Abergynolwyn to Tal-y-llyn lake and back to Machynlleth on the A487 through Corris. The B4405 is narrow and twisty, and the A487 through Corris is tight in places. About 2 hours of pure driving time. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Aberdyfi (Aberdovey): harbour, sandy beach and a view over the estuary, also known for golf. - Talyllyn Railway from Tywyn Wharf: a narrow-gauge line opened in 1865 that in 1951 became the first railway in the world to be saved and run by volunteers. - Tal-y-llyn and Corris: the lake beneath the slopes of Cadair Idris, the Corris Railway and the Corris Craft Centre. - **Official campsite or RV park:** A second night at the site near Pantperthog; the round trip is a day excursion with no move. If you would rather move on, you will find sites around Aberdyfi and Tywyn (many of them static caravan parks); ask about facilities and motorhome suitability in advance. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the car parks at Aberdyfi and Tywyn, community and Gwynedd rules apply; overnighting there is not advisable. The conservation and water areas at Tal-y-llyn are not intended for overnight stays. - **Insider tip for campers:** The Dyfi Osprey Project at the Cors Dyfi reserve (Montgomeryshire Wildlife Trust) shows breeding ospreys in the summer half-year; check the season in advance. The Cadair Idris hike from Minffordd is already described in the CampingSpirit guide “Castles, surf and mountain ridges – by motorhome through Wales from Pembrokeshire to Snowdonia”; here we stick to lakes and railways. The Llŷn Peninsula is a good 2.5 hours from here and does not fit into this loop. ### Stage 6: Machynlleth to New Quay (Cei Newydd) (approx. 85 km) - **The drive:** Back south on the A487 through Aberystwyth and on along the coast via Llanrhystud and Llanon, joining the A486 at Llanarth to New Quay. Mostly good country road with villages to drive through; in New Quay itself the harbour streets are steep and narrow. About 2 hours. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Llanerchaeron near Ciliau Aeron: a National Trust estate with a Georgian villa, gardens and a farm, a short detour from the A482. - New Quay: harbour with dolphin watching, boat trips and the Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre. - Ceredigion Coast Path: sections on the cliffs from New Quay towards Cwmtydu and Llangrannog, easy stretches for a day walk. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Cardigan Bay Camping and Caravanning Club Site in the hinterland of New Quay (club site with hook-up, sanitary facilities and disposal according to OpenStreetMap; non-members should check the surcharge in advance). Alternative: Shawsmead Caravan and Motorhome Club Site to the east, also a club site; clarify access for non-members in advance. Book both sites ahead. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In New Quay the car parks at the harbour and the beach are not intended for overnight stays; checks are common. Farm pitches with permission and club sites are the more reliable solution; park4night and the clubs show approved sites. - **Insider tip for campers:** Dolphins are most likely to show themselves in calm water; the wildlife boats run seasonally, so check dates on the spot. The binoculars belong on the passenger seat, not in the cupboard. ### Stage 7: New Quay to Cardigan (Aberteifi) via Llangrannog and Mwnt (approx. 55 km) - **The drive:** From New Quay take coastal lanes and the A487 south via Llangrannog, Penbryn, Tresaith and Aberporth to Mwnt and on to Cardigan. The approaches to the coves are narrow and steep and often unsuitable for large vehicles; heed the signs and do not follow the sat nav blindly. About 2 hours for 55 kilometres. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Llangrannog and Penbryn: small coves with pebble beaches, good for a walk on the Coast Path. - Mwnt: the church of Eglwys y Grog in a cove beneath Foel y Mwnt, with dolphins and seals visible from the hill. - Cardigan: castle with Eisteddfod history, the Teifi bridge and, inland, Cilgerran Castle and the Teifi Marshes reserve. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Brongwyn Touring and Camping Park near Penparc (with hook-up, water and disposal according to its OpenStreetMap entry); alternatively Mwnt Camping near the cove, Cardigan Camping and Caravan Site on the edge of Cardigan, or the National Trust campervan site Llanborth near Penbryn (booking and rules via the National Trust). Check facilities and season in advance. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Overnighting is not intended in the car parks at Mwnt, Penbryn and Llangrannog (partly National Trust, partly council); clarify fees and rules for parking with a motorhome in advance. The coast is very busy in this area. - **Insider tip for campers:** Large motorhomes are better off skipping the narrow dead-end roads to the coves (Penbryn, Mwnt) and going from the campsite by bus or bike. In Cardigan the bridge and town centre are tight. The way on south leads into Pembrokeshire, as described in the CampingSpirit guide “Castles, surf and mountain ridges – by motorhome through Wales from Pembrokeshire to Snowdonia”. ## Camping practice & local rules ### Wild camping & overnight parking - In Wales there is no right to camp freely. Without the landowner’s permission, wild camping with a tent or vehicle is trespass; usually you are first asked to leave. Parking is not the same as camping, but many councils, conservation bodies and forestry authorities forbid sleeping in vehicles in their car parks by means of signs, bylaws or height barriers. - The Cambrian Mountains and the Cardigan Bay coast are thinly populated, but not lawless: you should not overnight in the car parks of the Elan Valley, the forest near Ponterwyd or on the Ceredigion coast, but choose campsites, club sites and farm pitches instead. On the Aberystwyth promenade, too, parking bans for motorhomes can apply at night; heed the signs. - You are on safe ground on campsites, on Caravan and Motorhome Club and Camping and Caravanning Club sites (non-members sometimes pay more), on farm pitches with permission and on Brit Stop sites (pubs, farm shops). Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact and the clubs’ search functions. - Visitor levy: Welsh councils have been allowed to charge a levy per overnight stay since the legislation came in, but introducing it takes lead time. We know of no introduction for Ceredigion and Powys – when booking, ask the site for the current position. ### Waste disposal & supplies - Empty chemical toilets at Elsan points on campsites or at disposal stations; freely accessible stations are rare in Mid Wales, so on this route it is best to empty at the site. Grey water belongs in the disposal point, not in the street drain. - Tap water (Dŵr Cymru) is drinkable. You can fill up on campsites or at petrol stations; public taps at nature car parks are rare. - Gas: Calor cylinders (butane and propane) and Campingaz are available from specialist shops and petrol stations; foreign cylinders are generally not exchanged. British connections and regulators differ from German ones: bring a changeover regulator and adapters. Refillable cylinders can be filled at autogas stations, which are rare in Mid Wales. - Electricity: British campsites use blue CEE plugs (16 A, 230 V). Mobile and data signal often drops out in the valleys of the Cambrian Mountains; download maps offline. ### Vehicle size & traffic rules - Entry: Great Britain is not in the EU. EU citizens need an ETA (Electronic Travel Authorisation) for short stays, applied for online via GOV.UK or the official app; it carries a fee and is valid for several years (check the fee and conditions on GOV.UK in advance). Carry your passport, and have the vehicle registration document and proof of insurance ready; have your insurer confirm cover in Great Britain. - Customs and pets: Meat, milk and dairy products from the EU may not be brought into Great Britain. Dogs and cats need a microchip, rabies vaccination and an EU pet passport; dogs also need tapeworm treatment by a vet 24 to 120 hours before arrival, entered in the passport. - Driving on the left: go clockwise at roundabouts, switch your dipped headlights for left-hand traffic or mask them, and fit extra mirrors for hedges and walls. On single-track roads with passing places, whoever has the passing place on their side pulls in; do not reverse along the carriageway, and tractors and flocks of sheep have priority. - Speed limits (mph): motorhomes up to 3.05 t unladen weight 60 mph outside built-up areas, 70 mph on dual carriageways and motorways; over 3.05 t unladen weight 50 mph on single carriageways, 60 mph on dual carriageways, 70 mph on motorways. Cars with caravans: 50 mph on single carriageways, 60 mph on dual carriageways and motorways. In Wales, built-up roads with street lighting are generally 20 mph, with some roads raised back to 30 mph; heed the signs. - Dimensions: a maximum of 12 m in length and 2.55 m in width for British-registered motorhomes; from 3 m in height a notice for the driver is compulsory. Height restrictions are given in feet and inches. There are no tolls or low-emission zones on this route. - Alcohol limit in Wales is 80 mg per 100 ml of blood; better to drink nothing at all. Using a mobile phone at the wheel is banned. Winter tyres are not compulsory and warning triangles are not required; in the uplands it can be slippery and wet even in autumn. ## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist - OS Explorer maps for the area (sheets such as Llandrindod Wells & Elan Valley, Aberystwyth & Cwm Rheidol, Newtown & Machynlleth, Cardigan & New Quay) plus offline maps, because the mobile network drops out in the valleys. - Binoculars for red kites at Gigrin Farm, ospreys in the Dyfi Valley and dolphins off New Quay. - Changeover regulator and adapters for British gas cylinders, plus a cable reel with a blue CEE plug for campsites. - Waterproofs, wellies and a warm layer: it rains all year round in the Cambrian Mountains and it is noticeably cooler than on the coast. - Red-light head torch for evening stargazing in the Dark Sky Park, so you do not ruin your night vision. - Headlight masking or a switch to left-hand traffic, and folding extra mirrors for narrow roads with hedges. _As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._ ## Sources - [Cambrian News – Overnight campervan parking ban made permanent (Aberystwyth, 2017)](https://www.cambrian-news.co.uk/news/overnight-campervan-parking-ban-made-permanent-97204) - [Cambrian News – Aberystwyth promenade parking charges (2026)](https://www.cambrian-news.co.uk/news/ps5-aberystwyth-promenade-parking-charges-to-start-on-30-march-890924) - [Ceredigion County Council – Traffic orders and consultations](https://www.ceredigion.gov.uk/resident/travel-roads-parking/consultations/orders) - [Elan Valley Trust – Directions and Parking](https://www.elanvalley.org.uk/visit/directions) - [Visit Wales – Highlights im Elan Valley (International Dark Sky Park)](https://www.visitwales.com/de/reiseziele/mittelwales/highlights-im-elan-valley) - [Visit Mid Wales – Gigrin Farm Red Kite Centre](https://www.visitmidwales.co.uk/showmewales/things-to-do/gigrin-farm-red-kite-centre-p1724271) - [Camping and Caravanning Club – Wyeside Campsite, Rhayader](https://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/campsites/uk/powys/rhayader/wyeside) - [Campercontact – Llwyngwern Farm, Pantperthog](https://www.campercontact.com/en/united-kingdom/wales/pantperthog/112337/llwyngwern-farm.md) - [National Trust – Llanborth Campervan Site](https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays/wales/llanborth-campervan-site) - [National Trust – Penbryn (Holiday Cottage and Campervan Site)](https://nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays/wales/penbryn) ## Which stops are on the route from Rhayader to Cardigan? 1. **Rhayader** (United Kingdom) 2. **Cwm Elan** (United Kingdom) 3. **Ponterwyd** (United Kingdom) 4. **Devil’s Bridge** (United Kingdom) 5. **Tregaron** (United Kingdom) 6. **Aberystwyth** (United Kingdom) 7. **Machynlleth** (United Kingdom) 8. **Aberdyfi** (United Kingdom) 9. **Tal-y-llyn** (United Kingdom) 10. **New Quay** (United Kingdom) 11. **Llangrannog** (United Kingdom) 12. **Mwnt** (United Kingdom) 13. **Cardigan** (United Kingdom) ## When is the best time for the route from Rhayader to Cardigan? The most pleasant months are usually June–July. Still fine, with some compromises, in May and August–September. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons) ## What should you know before driving the route from Rhayader to Cardigan? No motorway tolls or vignettes expected for a car. - **United Kingdom: Tolls on some roads, bridges or tunnels.** Drive on the left. Some bridges and tunnels charge tolls. ## FAQs **How long is Red kites, dams and dolphin bay – by motorhome through Mid Wales from the Elan Valley to Cardigan Bay?** 7-day road trip of about 273 km (170 mi) with 13 stops, from Rhayader to Cardigan. About 3 h 47 min of driving in total. **How many days do you need for Red kites, dams and dolphin bay – by motorhome through Mid Wales from the Elan Valley to Cardigan Bay?** We suggest 7 days: about 3 h 47 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops. **Where does Red kites, dams and dolphin bay – by motorhome through Mid Wales from the Elan Valley to Cardigan Bay start and end?** It starts in Rhayader and ends in Cardigan. **Which countries does Red kites, dams and dolphin bay – by motorhome through Mid Wales from the Elan Valley to Cardigan Bay pass through?** United Kingdom. **Where can you camp along Red kites, dams and dolphin bay – by motorhome through Mid Wales from the Elan Valley to Cardigan Bay?** OpenStreetMap lists 290 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Glangwy Farm Camping, Fforest Fields and Vaenol Caravan Park.