# Bays, vines and mountain lakes – by camper through the Marlborough Sounds to the Wairau Valley, Nelson and the Nelson Lakes

> From the ferry at Picton along Queen Charlotte Drive, via Havelock and Pelorus Bridge to the Wairau Valley, on to Lake Rotoiti and via Nelson to the gateway…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-590-nz-marlborough-sounds-nelson-lakes/

**At a glance:** 7-day round trip of about 453 km (282 mi) with 12 stops, starting and ending in Picton. About 4 h 57 min of driving in total. Best time to go: March–April and October–November. From the ferry at Picton along Queen Charlotte Drive, via Havelock and Pelorus Bridge to the Wairau Valley, on to Lake Rotoiti and via Nelson to the gateway of Abel Tasman National Park: about 585 kilometres in seven stages at the top of the South Island.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | approx. 453 km (282 mi) |
| Driving | 4 h 57 min |
| Suggested days | 7 |
| Stops | 12 |
| Route | Picton → Picton |
| States | New Zealand |
| Best time to go | March–April and October–November |
| Updated | October 1, 2026 |

[Download GPX file](https://camping-spirit.com/gpx/rf-590-nz-marlborough-sounds-nelson-lakes.gpx)

Practical guides for this route: [Driving the Outback safely: distances, water, road trains and emergency communication](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/oc-outback-driving-safety/), [Hiring a campervan or motorhome in Australia: what to check](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/oc-campervan-hire-australia/)

*From the ferry at Picton along Queen Charlotte Drive, via Havelock and Pelorus Bridge to the Wairau Valley, on to Lake Rotoiti and via Nelson to the gateway of Abel Tasman National Park: about 585 kilometres in seven stages at the top of the South Island.*

## The spirit of the route

The top of the South Island is made of water pushing its way between forests. You have barely left the ferry at Picton when Queen Charlotte Drive creeps along high above the sound, with boats bobbing below in bays that have no village, just ferns, pines and the smell of salt and resin. In Havelock the mussel lines hang in Pelorus Sound, and in the Pelorus forest you scramble over rocks where the water glows green. Then the Wairau Valley opens up: straight rows of vines, wind machines, gravel tracks to cellar doors. Beyond Renwick the road climbs towards the mountains, and at Lake Rotoiti ducks bob in front of beech forest where kea calls echo. Finally you roll along Tasman Bay to Nelson, where the light lingers longer than anywhere else, and on to the edge of Abel Tasman National Park, where you leave the vehicle behind and continue on foot.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Picton to Havelock (Pelorus Sound) (approx. 40 km)

- **The drive:** From the ferry town of Picton you follow Queen Charlotte Drive uphill and along the shore of Grove Arm: the road is narrow, very twisty and hugs the slope above the water, with pull-offs and several bridges. At Linkwater it meets SH6, then it continues to Havelock at the head of Pelorus Sound. Allow about an hour of driving; in a large campervan, take it without time pressure and wait for oncoming traffic in the pull-offs. When booking the ferry from Wellington to Picton (Interislander or Bluebridge), the length and height of your vehicle count, so declare rear carriers and roof loads. If you want to head from Picton to Blenheim and on south, you will find the wine region and the east coast in the CampingSpirit guide “Sperm whales, mountain passes and starry skies”; this guide stays in the Sounds and in the mountains.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Anakiwa at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound: a short detour along Anakiwa Road to the end of the Queen Charlotte Track, with water views and a flat walk along the shore.
  - Viewpoint pull-offs on Queen Charlotte Drive above Grove Arm – on a windless day the sound lies like glass.
  - Havelock: home of the green-lipped mussel; at the harbour you can get mussels fresh, and there are trips out on Pelorus Sound.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Havelock there is the Havelock Holiday Park (Inglis Street, near the harbour) with powered sites; ask in advance whether a dump station is available. More comfort is offered by the DOC Pelorus Bridge Campground, about 18 km west on SH6, category Serviced with kitchen, showers and powered sites but no dump station; book online in advance, early in summer. Picton and nearby Waikawa have several holiday parks.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Marlborough District Council allows freedom camping only in designated areas and only with a certified self-contained vehicle; there is no such area in Picton. Wild nights are also off limits on Queen Charlotte Drive and in the bays of the Sounds, and the road is in any case too narrow for rest areas. CamperMate shows current areas; signs on site take precedence.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Fill up with fuel and shop at the supermarket in Picton before you turn onto Queen Charlotte Drive – there is hardly anything on the way. Side trip on Kenepuru Road: it branches off at Linkwater and runs about 40 km along the water to Kenepuru Head. According to a travel report it is sealed all the way, but twisty, with few passing places and no dump station or water point; the side roads are gravel. For long campervans it only makes sense as far as the end of the road, with a reserve for the way back (not included in the stage kilometres). Check the condition and booking on the DOC page for Kenepuru Head Campsite beforehand. If you want to see the Sounds from the water, take a water taxi or excursion boat from Picton and leave the camper at the harbour.

### Stage 2: Havelock to Blenheim (Wairau Plains) (approx. 80 km)

- **The drive:** First 18 km west on SH6 to Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve and back, then on SH6 through Canvastown and Okaramio into the flat Wairau Valley as far as Renwick and Blenheim. Well built, but with trucks and winery traffic; on the side roads between the vine rows there is hardly any shoulder. About 1.5 hours of pure driving time. Wine growing and cellar doors around Blenheim are a side note on this route; if you want to go deeper, see the guide “Sperm whales, mountain passes and starry skies”.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve: loop walks through podocarp forest, swimming spots in the Pelorus River; the place is also known as the filming location of the barrel ride in The Hobbit.
  - Wairau Bar near Blenheim: an archaeological site of the early Polynesians at the mouth of the Wairau; whether and how the site can be visited, check beforehand with the Visitor Centre in Blenheim.
  - Cycle ride through the vineyards between Renwick and Rapaura – the ground is flat, and many cellar doors rent bikes.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Blenheim has several holiday parks with powered sites, kitchen and sanitary facilities, among them the Blenheim Top 10 Holiday Park; ask about the dump station and availability in advance. At wineries and smaller sites around Renwick, an enquiry in advance is necessary.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Around Blenheim only a few areas are designated for certified vehicles (Marlborough Responsible Camping Control Bylaw), mostly with a maximum stay of one to two nights. Wineries offer parking in some cases for guests, but not across the board; ask first. If you stay overnight at the DOC sites in the Pelorus area, book online.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Tasting and driving do not mix: the blood alcohol limit is 0.5 per mille, and checks are frequent on country roads. Book tastings with spittoons or use a driver service, and stock up on supplies, water and gas in Blenheim before you head into the mountains. During the harvest in late summer and autumn, tractors and harvesters are out on the roads.

### Stage 3: Blenheim to St Arnaud (Nelson Lakes) (approx. 105 km)

- **The drive:** From Blenheim on SH6 to Renwick, then on SH63 through the Wairau Valley: first wine country, then sheep pasture, later the narrow Wairau Gorge, finally beech forest and the climb to St Arnaud at about 650 m. The road is mostly good, but twisty with narrow sections; fuel stations and shops are rare. About 1.75 hours of driving time. On Rainbow Road: it joins SH63 at St Arnaud. According to DOC it can only be driven with a high-clearance 4WD, it is a toll road run by Rainbow Station, has no mobile reception and can be closed at any time in case of snow, slips or fire danger – it is not part of the route.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Wairau Valley: the change from vines to hill country and mountains without large settlements, with views of the snow-covered peaks in spring.
  - Tophouse: a historic pioneer-era house near SH63 at St Arnaud, with tea and a view of the mountains (check opening hours and access beforehand).
  - First views of Lake Rotoiti and the mountain range before you reach the village of St Arnaud.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** DOC Kerr Bay Campsite on Lake Rotoiti, a few minutes from St Arnaud: category Serviced, powered sites in several zones (kiwi sites are meant for campervans), showers with tokens, sanitary facilities, dump station opposite the cooking shelter. Online booking is required all year round; the site is not suitable for vehicles over 7 m in length. Alternatively DOC West Bay Campsite on the other shore, Standard without power, open only in the summer season (end of November to end of April), also with booking. Dogs are not allowed at either site.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Nelson Lakes National Park is DOC land: camping in your vehicle only at the DOC campsites, not in car parks by the lake. In the village of St Arnaud, private sites and lodges are the alternative. Fires and gas cookers are often subject to restrictions in summer; observe fire bans.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Fill the tank in Blenheim and shop there: St Arnaud has only small shops, and fuel is not reliable. Altitude and mountains: nights can be cold even in summer, and in winter there is snow and frost – carry chains, and check the weather and road conditions on the NZTA Journey Planner. Sandflies are active at the lake, so close the fly screens early.

### Stage 4: St Arnaud to St Arnaud (Lake Rotoiti, day on foot) (approx. 20 km)

- **The drive:** A day without moving camp: from the campsite on foot or with short drives to the trailheads around Lake Rotoiti. The road to Mt Robert Car Park is short, steep and twisty; otherwise the camper stays put. About 20 km of driving in total, the rest are walking tracks.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Peninsula Nature Walk at Kerr Bay: a short loop through beech forest by the lake, with birdsong and lake views, also doable with children.
  - Mt Robert Track: several hours, steep, with open views over the lake and the mountains, only in good weather; the descent via the Pinchgut Track is particularly steep.
  - Lakeside Track between Kerr Bay and West Bay: an easy stretch along the shore, ideal in the evening with low light.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Second night at Kerr Bay Campsite; if you use West Bay, book in advance as well. Both sites are booked out early during the summer holidays around Christmas and New Year.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the national park the DOC rules apply: only on campsites, take your rubbish with you, treat water from the lake or from streams. Dogs are generally prohibited in the national park; before you travel with a pet, read the DOC information.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The DOC visitor centre in St Arnaud provides information on weather, track conditions and winter conditions; tackle Mt Robert only in stable weather, as there is snow in winter. Lake Rotoroa is a quieter second lake and is not included in the kilometres; ask the visitor centre beforehand about access and the condition of the road.

### Stage 5: St Arnaud to Nelson (Tasman Bay) (approx. 90 km)

- **The drive:** From St Arnaud on SH63 to Kawatiri Junction, there onto SH6 northwards via Kohatu, Wakefield and Brightwater to Richmond and on along Tasman Bay to Nelson. Well built, mostly flat, with several roundabouts; in the Richmond–Nelson area, slow-moving rush-hour and weekend traffic. About 1.5 hours of driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Nelson Provincial Museum and Christ Church Cathedral on the hill in the middle of the city, with views of the city and the bay.
  - Tahunanui Beach: a wide sandy beach and tidal flats, a popular sunset walk in the evening.
  - Nelson Market on Saturday at Montgomery Square: crafts, vegetables and street food.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Tahuna Beach Holiday Park in Tahunanui near the beach, with power and dump station (check the facilities in advance). More commercial sites can be found around Nelson, for example the Maitai Valley Motor Camp; reserve in summer.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Nelson allows self-contained vehicles a maximum of two consecutive nights at a few designated areas: Buxton Carpark, Montgomery Carpark (not on Friday and Saturday nights), Wakatu Carpark, Wakapuaka Reserve and the paved area at QEII Drive Gardens; no more than twice within a calendar month. Non-certified vehicles may stay overnight only at Buxton Carpark. Tents are allowed only with permission on Haulashore Island and Oyster Island. Fines run to three figures in NZ$; signs on site take precedence.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The free public dump station is on St Vincent Street; stock up in Nelson and swap gas before you head into more thinly populated areas. Parking in the city centre is time-limited; it is best to leave large campers on the edge.

### Stage 6: Nelson to Marahau and Kaiteriteri (access to Abel Tasman) (approx. 70 km)

- **The drive:** From Nelson on SH6 to Richmond, then on SH60 along the coast via Māpua and Motueka to Riwaka and on over the hill to Kaiteriteri and Marahau. Well built as far as Riwaka, after that narrow and twisty, with heavy summer traffic and boat trailers. About 1.5 hours of driving time. Abel Tasman National Park can only be reached on foot, by kayak or by water taxi; vehicles stay at the entrance. The west coast from Nelson is described in the CampingSpirit guide “Rainforest, surf and glacier ice”; here the route ends at the park gate.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Riwaka Resurgence: where the Riwaka River emerges from the karst, a clear spring just a few steps from the car park.
  - Marahau: the start of the Abel Tasman Coast Track; the first section to the nearby bays can be planned as a day walk with a water taxi back.
  - Kaiteriteri Beach: golden sandy beach and water taxi stop, quietest early in the morning.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Marahau Beach Camp right at the park entrance or the large Kaiteriteri Recreation Reserve on the beach with powered sites and sanitary facilities. In Motueka, the Motueka Top 10 Holiday Park is a larger site with power and waste disposal. Book early in December and January.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Tasman District has severely restricted freedom camping with its Responsible Camping Bylaw: no tents on public land, and overnight stays in vehicles are not allowed on the beaches of Kaiteriteri and Marahau. Within Abel Tasman Park itself there are only DOC campsites and huts for hikers; booking is compulsory. An area that is also open to non-certified vehicles is the Alexander Bluff Road Reserve near Ngātīmoti (basic, no power).
- **Insider tip for campers:** Shop and fill up in Motueka; Kaiteriteri and Marahau have only small shops. Book water taxis and car parking for day walkers in advance, especially in the summer holidays. Sandflies on the coastal track: insect repellent and fly screens. The park and the huts have their own booking and fee rules; DOC gives current information.

### Stage 7: Marahau to Picton (ferry) (approx. 180 km)

- **The drive:** Back on SH60 and SH6 to Nelson, then on SH6 over Whangamoa Saddle and Rai Saddle into the Pelorus Valley, through Pelorus Bridge to Havelock. Beyond Havelock there are two options: Queen Charlotte Drive to Picton (narrow, twisty) or via Blenheim on SH1 (wider, somewhat longer). Together about 3 hours of pure driving time; if your ferry is in the evening, start early and allow a reserve.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Whangamoa Saddle and Rai Saddle: long, forested passes with overtaking lanes and pull-offs, with occasional views over forest and valleys.
  - Picton: Edwin Fox Maritime Museum at the harbour, a merchant ship from 1853, one of the oldest surviving in the world.
  - Harbour promenade in Picton, within walking distance of the ferry terminal.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Last night either in Picton or Waikawa (several holiday parks) or, if you have time, a bit further back in Havelock or at Pelorus Bridge. For an early-morning departure, a site near the ferry terminal is worthwhile.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Around Picton’s ferry terminal, overnighting in vehicles is not allowed; there is no designated freedom camping area in Picton. Plan the last night at a holiday park.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Book the ferry in good time, declare vehicle height and length including rear carrier, and follow the ferry companies’ instructions on gas cylinders. Empty grey water and the toilet at a dump station before handing the vehicle back.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- Freedom camping on public land requires a certified self-contained vehicle with a green warrant, that is, a permanently installed toilet plus fresh-water and waste-water tanks. The rule now applies to rental and private vehicles alike; the fine runs to three figures in NZ$.
- Three sets of rules apply on this route: Marlborough (designated areas only, none in Picton), Nelson City (a few car parks, two nights at most) and Tasman District (no tents on public land, beaches of Kaiteriteri and Marahau closed, Alexander Bluff Road Reserve near Ngātīmoti also without a certificate). Signs on site take precedence.
- On DOC land the rule is: stay overnight only at DOC campsites. Kerr Bay and West Bay at Lake Rotoiti and Pelorus Bridge must be booked online in advance; without a booking, no pitch is held for you. Kerr Bay and Pelorus Bridge have Serviced status, West Bay is a basic Standard site without power and open only in the summer season.
- Apps: CamperMate and WikiCamps (zones, dump stations, sites); for DOC, the DOC booking system; for council areas, the councils’ maps. Fires only where expressly permitted – in the dry season, regional fire bans apply (checkitsalright.nz).

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Dump stations: In Nelson there is a free public station on St Vincent Street, plus holiday parks in Blenheim, Nelson and Motueka. In the Sounds, in Havelock and at Rotoiti they are rare; Kerr Bay has a station on site, Pelorus Bridge has none. Never empty cassettes into long-drop toilets, never put grey water on the ground.
- Water: Drinkable in towns and holiday parks; on DOC campsites and from lakes often untreated – boil or filter it. On the campsites at Rotoiti, do not assume drinking water; bring containers.
- Gas: LPG bottles (usually 9 kg) are swapped at many fuel stations or refilled at gas suppliers, only with a valid test date. Foreign bottles are generally not refilled; rental campers have suitable bottles on board. Nelson and Blenheim are the safest places to swap.
- Fuel: Not reliable between Linkwater and Havelock, in the Wairau Valley and around St Arnaud; fill up in Picton, Blenheim, Richmond and Nelson. Diesel campers pay Road User Charges, for rental campers via the rental company. Power at holiday parks via the three-pin camping plug (15 A).

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Drive on the left, the driver sits on the right. At roundabouts you drive clockwise, and vehicles from the right have priority. One-lane bridges: the blue sign with a large white arrow means you have priority, the one with a red border and a small red arrow means wait. If you have a queue behind you, let it pass at slow vehicle bays.
- Speed limits: country roads mostly 100 km/h, towns 50 km/h, lower on Queen Charlotte Drive and on passes as signposted; vehicles over 3.5 t and combinations at most 90 km/h. Take curve signs with advisory speeds seriously. There are no tolls on this route.
- Alcohol: 0.5 per mille (50 mg per 100 ml of blood); for drivers under 20 the limit is 0.0. Mobile phones at the wheel are prohibited; seat belts are compulsory for all occupants.
- Animals: sheep, cattle and wildlife at dusk, especially in the Wairau Valley and in the Pelorus forest; kea and possums at night. Prevent trouble by driving slowly at dusk.
- Rental campers: A driving licence in English or a translated one is enough for up to 12 months. Many contracts exclude unsealed roads (Rainbow Road, side roads of Kenepuru Road); insurance then often does not apply. Read the exclusions in the rental contract before you set off.
- Winter and weather: rain and fog at Rai Saddle and Whangamoa Saddle, snow and frost at St Arnaud; check the current situation on the NZTA Journey Planner. Closures, for example on Queen Charlotte Drive, happen again and again.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Insect repellent and fly screens for the windows: sandflies are active at Rotoiti, in the Sounds and on the Abel Tasman coast.
- A warm merino layer and a rain jacket: at Lake Rotoiti, at about 650 m, the evenings turn cool even in summer, and showers pass through quickly.
- Cool box and insulated bag for green-lipped mussels from Havelock and fresh fruit from the Wairau and Tasman valleys.
- Snow chains (in winter) for St Arnaud and the passes; with rental campers, clarify beforehand whether chains are allowed.
- A printout or offline copy of the DOC bookings and the self-containment certificate – dead spots in the Wairau Valley and in the Sounds.

_As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Sources

- [Department of Conservation – Kerr Bay Campsite](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/nelson-tasman/places/nelson-lakes-national-park/things-to-do/campsites/kerr-bay-campsite/)
- [Department of Conservation – West Bay Campsite](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/nelson-tasman/places/nelson-lakes-national-park/things-to-do/campsites/west-bay-campsite/)
- [Department of Conservation – Rainbow Road (Hanmer Springs to St Arnaud)](https://doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/marlborough/places/molesworth-reserve/things-to-do/tracks/rainbow-road-hanmer-springs-to-st-arnaud)
- [Department of Conservation – Lake Rotoroa Campsite](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/nelson-tasman/places/nelson-lakes-national-park/things-to-do/campsites/lake-rotoroa-campsite/)
- [Nelson City Council – Responsible Freedom Camping](https://www.nelson.govt.nz/5community/2recreation/responsible-camping)
- [Marlborough District Council – Camping in Marlborough (Responsible Camping Control Bylaw)](https://www.marlborough.govt.nz/recreation/responsible-camping/camping-in-marlborough)
- [Marlborough District Council – Effluent and Greywater Dump Locations](https://marlborough.govt.nz/services/solid-and-liquid-waste/effluent-and-greywater-dump-locations)
- [New Zealand Motorhome & Caravan – Setting out for Kenepuru Sound](https://nzmcd.co.nz/destinations/marlborough/setting-out-for-kenepuru-sound/)
- [Tourism New Zealand – Havelock Holiday Park (Havelock Motor Camp)](https://www.newzealand.com/de/plan/business/havelock-motor-camp/)

## Which stops are on the round trip from Picton?

1. **Picton** (New Zealand)
2. **Havelock** (New Zealand)
3. **Pelorus Bridge** (New Zealand)
4. **Blenheim** (New Zealand)
5. **Renwick** (New Zealand)
6. **St Arnaud** (New Zealand)
7. **Lake Rotoiti** (New Zealand)
8. **Nelson** (New Zealand)
9. **Motueka** (New Zealand)
10. **Kaiteriteri** (New Zealand)
11. **Marahau** (New Zealand)
12. **Picton** (New Zealand)

## When is the best time for the round trip from Picton?

The most pleasant months are usually March–April and October–November. Still fine, with some compromises, in February, May, September and December. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## FAQs

**How long is Bays, vines and mountain lakes – by camper through the Marlborough Sounds to the Wairau Valley, Nelson and the Nelson Lakes?**
7-day round trip of about 453 km (282 mi) with 12 stops, starting and ending in Picton. About 4 h 57 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Bays, vines and mountain lakes – by camper through the Marlborough Sounds to the Wairau Valley, Nelson and the Nelson Lakes?**
We suggest 7 days: about 4 h 57 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Bays, vines and mountain lakes – by camper through the Marlborough Sounds to the Wairau Valley, Nelson and the Nelson Lakes start and end?**
It is a round trip that starts and ends in Picton.

**Which states does Bays, vines and mountain lakes – by camper through the Marlborough Sounds to the Wairau Valley, Nelson and the Nelson Lakes pass through?**
New Zealand.