# Rock arches, gorges and glass – by motorhome through Bohemian Switzerland and the Lusatian Mountains

> From Děčín on the Elbe through the sandstone gorges of Hřensko, past the Pravčice Gate and over the phonolite cones of the Lusatian Mountains to Lake Mácha…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-573-bohemian-switzerland-lusatian-mountains/

**At a glance:** 7-day road trip of about 140 km (87 mi) with 14 stops, from Děčín to Doksy. About 1 h 56 min of driving in total. Best time to go: June–September. Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €11 (Czechia, Vignette). From Děčín on the Elbe through the sandstone gorges of Hřensko, past the Pravčice Gate and over the phonolite cones of the Lusatian Mountains to Lake Mácha: around 250 kilometres on roads that are narrower than the views are wide.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | approx. 140 km (87 mi) |
| Driving | 1 h 56 min |
| Suggested days | 7 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Děčín → Doksy |
| Countries | Czechia |
| Best time to go | June–September |
| Tolls and vignettes | ≈ €11 |
| Updated | October 1, 2026 |

[Download GPX file](https://camping-spirit.com/gpx/rf-573-bohemian-switzerland-lusatian-mountains.gpx)

Practical guides for this route: [Central-East Europe by motorhome: tolls, wild camping and what to check in October](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/eu-central-europe-east-by-motorhome/)

*From Děčín on the Elbe through the sandstone gorges of Hřensko, past the Pravčice Gate and over the phonolite cones of the Lusatian Mountains to Lake Mácha: around 250 kilometres on roads that are narrower than the views are wide.*

## The spirit of the route

Bohemian Switzerland is a land of niches. Sandstone walls stand so close together that moss grows on the floor of the gorges even in July, and above it all the Pravčice Gate, the largest natural rock arch in Europe, spans the sky as if it had simply been forgotten. Look out of your sliding door and you see pines on rock needles, mist in the valleys and, in the evening, light that turns the towers from yellow to rust red. Further east the rock changes: in the Lusatian Mountains round volcanic cones rise out of beech forests, a castle clings to the cliff at Sloup, and in Nový Bor craftsmen still blow glass today. In between lie villages with Umgebinde houses, forest paths for mushroom picking and quiet ponds. The price is narrow village streets and strict rules in the national park – but if you take them seriously, you get one of the quietest corners of Central Europe in return.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Děčín to Tisá (Tiské stěny) (approx. 25 km)

- **The drive:** The starting point is Děčín, where the Elbe and the Ploučnice meet. From there the route follows country roads west and north-west to Tisá, on the edge of the Tiské stěny rock town. The roads are wide and well built at first, but beyond Děčín they get narrower, with short, steep climbs and a few villages to drive through. Allow about three quarters of an hour of driving time without stops; the detour to Tisá is a diversion you can also skip if time is short.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Děčín Castle on its rocky spur above the Elbe, with a rose garden and a view over the valley.
  - Pastýřská stěna (Shepherd’s Wall): a viewpoint high above the Elbe, with a view of Děčín and the sandstone mountains around it.
  - Tiské stěny: a labyrinth of sandstone towers and narrow lanes, best visited early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Entry is charged and limited each day, so it is best to buy tickets online in advance.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Děčín, Kemp Děčín & Cyklostop lies close to the Elbe and works as a base for the first night and as a stop for cyclists; ask the operator about facilities and season before you go. In the Tisá area the OpenStreetMap data lists Autokemp Pod Císařem (recorded with electricity and sanitary facilities, about 3 km north-east of the village centre) and Camping Tisá. The Stellplatz Sněžník (operator’s site stpl-sneznik.cz) is in the village of Sněžník, about 6 km east of Tisá on the route from Děčín; according to the camping.info directory it has 13 pitches on gravel with electricity, fresh water and waste water disposal, and is open all year. Check the length limit and opening times with the operator before you arrive.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Elbe Sandstone Mountains Protected Landscape Area (Labské pískovce) and around Tiské stěny, overnighting in your vehicle outside campsites is not permitted. Hiking car parks are for day visits; take no-camping signs seriously, as the municipalities carry out checks. Plan fixed sites.
- **Insider tip for campers:** It is best to fill up with fuel, shop and top up water in Děčín: around Hřensko and in the national park shops are few and far between and more expensive. In the old town of Děčín and on side roads, height and weight restrictions are possible; stay on the main roads and watch the signs. An offline map (such as Mapy.cz) is worth having, because reception drops out in the valleys.

### Stage 2: Tisá to Hřensko and Mezní Louka (approx. 45 km)

- **The drive:** Back to Děčín and then on road 62 along the right bank of the Elbe through the river gorge to Hřensko on the border. The road is narrow here, and the village’s main street is crowded by parked cars, pedestrians and market stalls. Beyond Hřensko the access road to the small plateau of Mezní Louka winds up with tight bends. Around an hour of driving time without stops, but it is a question of timing: at weekends and in the holidays the traffic is already backed up by mid-morning.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Kamnitz Gorge (Soutěska) from Hřensko: the Wild Gorge (Divoká soutěska) and Edmund’s Gorge (Tichá soutěska) can be explored by boat, with ferrymen punting the boats through the rock lanes. The boats run from around Easter until early November; in winter the gorges are closed. Edmund’s Gorge was hit hard by the 2022 fire; check with the municipality of Hřensko or the national park authority beforehand whether boats are running there. Tickets are sold only at the ticket office at the landing stage, so bring enough cash, as card terminals do not work reliably in the deep valley. Allow a good half day.
  - The Elbe at Hřensko: a walk along the bank shows the sandstone walls rising steeply from the water.
  - Kemp Mezní Louka as a starting point for paths into the gorge and to the Pravčice Gate, with an inn and a bus stop.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Kemp Mezní Louka on the plateau between the gorge and the Pravčice Gate: recorded in the OpenStreetMap data with electricity and sanitary facilities, set in the forest. Ask the operator beforehand about season, pitch size and length limit for motorhomes. In Hřensko itself there is no site we can recommend for large motorhomes.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The Bohemian Switzerland National Park (České Švýcarsko) is a protected zone: camping, overnighting in your vehicle outside sites, open fires and leaving the marked paths are all prohibited. In the area around Hřensko that burned in 2022, some paths, such as the Gabriela Trail, remain closed for safety reasons because trees and rocks are unstable. The Pravčice Gate can be reached by other routes. Check the current situation with the national park authority (npcs.cz).
- **Insider tip for campers:** Come early: the paid car parks in Hřensko are often full by mid-morning in season. Better: drive through the village without stopping up to Mezní Louka, park there in the large car park and hike from there. Bus 438 (Děčín–Mezní Louka) runs back to Děčín; line 434 connects Děčín with Hřensko, Jetřichovice, Chřibská and Krásná Lípa. Check timetables in advance, as frequency depends on the season. Large motorhomes should not drive into the narrow centre of Hřensko unless they have to.

### Stage 3: Mezní Louka to Krásná Lípa via Jetřichovice (approx. 35 km)

- **The drive:** From Mezní Louka on small roads through woodland to Jetřichovice, then on side roads to Krásná Lípa. Narrow carriageways with changing surfaces, a few steep sections and villages where oncoming traffic calls for consideration. A good hour of driving time without stops, a full day with hikes.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Pravčice Gate (Pravčická brána): the largest natural rock arch in Europe, reached on foot from Mezní Louka in about 3.5 km by the flatter path (from Hřensko the climb is longer and steeper). Admission is collected at the gate, and cash only; there are no cash machines there. The small château Sokolí hnízdo (Falcon’s Nest) stands right at the gate.
  - Jetřichovice: a village among rocks with viewpoints and several hiking trails; you reach the Mariina skála (Mary’s Rock) on the red trail in about an hour, and the last stretch climbs about 250 steps. After forest fires, some areas near Jetřichovice may be closed off; the viewpoint loop can usually still be walked on marked paths. Check the current situation with the national park authority.
  - Krásná Lípa: the national park authority’s visitor centre “Dům Českého Švýcarska” with an exhibition; the lookout tower on Vlčí hora (Wolf Hill) stands above the town.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Stellplatz Krásná Lípa (Mánesova) on the edge of town, about 900 m from the centre: according to a report in promobil, seven pitches of roughly 6 x 9 m each for motorhomes up to about 8 m in length, with fresh water, grey water and chemical toilet disposal, electricity via charging posts billed by app, and round-the-clock access through a digital barrier; no sanitary facilities. Booking is online and payment contactless. Check beforehand whether everything is still as described and whether it operates in winter.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Outside the Stellplatz, wild camping is prohibited in the national park and in the protected areas. In Jetřichovice and the forest villages the car parks are for day visits, not for overnighting. When there is a wildfire risk, the national park can close paths and ban fires and stoves with open flames.
- **Insider tip for campers:** You can reach the Pravčice Gate only on foot, so plan the hike. For motorhomers, Mezní Louka is the recommended starting point. If you want to avoid crowds and full car parks, start before 9 am or only in the late afternoon. Take cash in crowns, as the inns in the national park do not accept cards everywhere.

### Stage 4: Krásná Lípa to Jiřetín pod Jedlovou via Chřibská (approx. 40 km)

- **The drive:** From Krásná Lípa on country roads first a short way west to Chřibská, which already belongs to the transition into the Lusatian Mountains (Lužické hory), then back and eastwards to Jiřetín pod Jedlovou. A hilly route through forest and meadows, with varying road quality and villages with pinch points. About an hour of pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Chřibská: a village with a glassmaking tradition and the Gothic church of St George at the foot of the Lusatian Mountains, a starting point for forest paths.
  - Jedlová (Tannenberg): the mountain above Jiřetín with a lookout tower and mountain inn, one to two hours on foot.
  - Jiřetín pod Jedlovou: the Way of the Cross (Křížová cesta) with chapels, a quiet walk.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** The Pod Jedlovou campsite is recorded in the OpenStreetMap data near Jiřetín pod Jedlovou below the mountain Jedlová (about 2 km from the village centre); the data gives only the name and location. Find out beforehand whether it is currently open, and about facilities, season and size limit. Alternatively, stay in Krásná Lípa and treat the route as a day trip.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The Lusatian Mountains are a protected landscape area. Wild camping is prohibited, and overnighting in a motorhome in forest car parks is not permitted either. Parking for a hike is allowed where there are car parks or signs.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The mountain roads beyond Chřibská are narrow and in places end at turning areas meant for cars. Park large vehicles down in the village and continue on foot. Get water and supplies beforehand in Krásná Lípa, as shops are rare in the mountains.

### Stage 5: Jiřetín pod Jedlovou to Sloup v Čechách via the Lausche (approx. 40 km)

- **The drive:** From Jiřetín east towards Luž (Lausche), at 793 m the highest summit of the Lusatian Mountains, on the German border, then south-west to Sloup v Čechách. Side roads through beech and spruce forest, a few bends, and in the villages a narrow cross-section in places. About an hour of driving time; with the climb up the Lausche and a visit to the castle it makes a full day.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Luž (Lausche): the climb to the summit, over which the state border runs. On the Czech side there is neither a tower nor an inn; the lookout tower opened in 2020 and the mountain inn stand on the German side.
  - Sloup Rock Castle (Sloup v Čechách): a castle hewn into the rock, with rooms inside the cliff.
  - Small paths around the centre of Sloup with views of the rocks.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Sloup itself, OpenStreetMap has only an entry for the Koupaliště (bathing area) with a tent site; no verifiable motorhome site could be found. Check beforehand in Stellplatz apps whether Sloup or Nový Bor offer pitches, otherwise continue to Česká Lípa (stage 6).
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The same applies here: protected landscape area, wild camping not permitted. At the foot of the castle there are car parks for day visitors; overnighting on them is not designated.
- **Insider tip for campers:** For the climb up the Lausche, start early; depending on the starting point it takes about 2 hours or more, so take food with you, as there is nowhere to stop for a meal on the Czech side. Check the opening times of Sloup Rock Castle beforehand. Sloup is small: buy groceries and water beforehand.

### Stage 6: Sloup v Čechách to Česká Lípa via Nový Bor and Zákupy (approx. 45 km)

- **The drive:** From Sloup to Nový Bor, the glass town, then on to Česká Lípa; a detour leads to Zákupy, east of Česká Lípa. Wider country roads with longer stretches, and villages with traffic lights and roundabouts. About an hour of driving time, well built compared with the mountain roads.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Nový Bor: the centre of North Bohemian glassmaking, with a glass museum; glassblowers demonstrate their craft, so ask about times beforehand.
  - Zákupy: Zákupy Château, Habsburg property in the 19th century and summer residence of Emperor Ferdinand I after his abdication.
  - Česká Lípa: an old town with a monastery and the underground (Podzemí), which can be visited on guided tours.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** South of Česká Lípa lies Lake Holany with several sites: Kemp Milčany (operator’s site holany.cz), Aero (rsaero.cz) and Jachta Holany (jachtaholany.cz). Ask each operator about facilities for motorhomes and about the season.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Wild camping is not permitted at the lakes and ponds of the region; car parks by the water can often be used only during the day. Expect checks by the municipal authorities and fines.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Nový Bor is worth a lunch stop: the old town has parking areas on its edge, and the centre is tight. If you want to buy glass souvenirs, ask for pieces made locally and carry them well padded in the vehicle.

### Stage 7: Česká Lípa to Máchovo jezero (Doksy) (approx. 25 km)

- **The drive:** From Česká Lípa on short country roads to Doksy on Lake Mácha, the best-known bathing lake of the region. A flat, well-built route of less than half an hour’s driving time, although prone to jams in summer. Traffic sets the pace.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Bezděz Castle on a basalt cone south-east of the lake, a Gothic royal castle with a wide panoramic view.
  - Máchovo jezero: a cycle path around the lake and bathing spots near Staré Splavy.
  - Doksy: a village centre with a château and a harbour on the lakeshore.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** There are several sites around the lake, including Camp Borný (campborny.cz) and the Arnika site (machovojezero-arnika.cz); others such as Březňák, Preciosa and Karolínka are listed in the OpenStreetMap data. Fully booked in high summer, so reserve beforehand; ask about facilities and suitability for motorhomes.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Wild camping is not allowed on the shore of Lake Mácha, nor in the protected zones and forests around it. Parking is allowed only in car parks.
- **Insider tip for campers:** If you want to go further: Liberec lies to the north-east, a city stop with an old town and a mountain viewpoint. You will find the continuation through North Bohemia in the CampingSpirit travel guide “Sandstone towers, castle ruins and the ridge of Sněžka – by motorhome through North Bohemia to the Giant Mountains”. The German side of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains is described in the CampingSpirit travel guide “Sandstone, narrow-gauge railway, toy villages: by motorhome through Saxon Switzerland and the Ore Mountains”.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- The Czech Republic has no right to roam like Scandinavia: wild camping is not allowed, and on private land you need the owner’s permission. In the national park and in protected areas, camping, bivouacking and overnighting outside sites are expressly prohibited. Parking is permitted in public car parks, but municipalities and national parks can restrict it. Fines are also imposed on tourists.
- In the Bohemian Switzerland National Park there is a requirement to stay on the paths, a ban on fires (except at designated fireplaces) and, depending on wildfire risk, additional closures. In the area burned in 2022 around Hřensko, some paths (such as the Gabriela Trail) are closed because trees and rocks are unstable; burned areas near Jetřichovice may also be closed off. Respect closures and check the current notices from the national park authority.
- You can stay overnight legally on campsites and Stellplätze. Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact; Mapy.cz helps with offline maps.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Waste disposal and fresh water are available at the campsites, at the Stellplatz Sněžník and at the automated Stellplatz in Krásná Lípa; in Děčín and Česká Lípa, check stations in apps beforehand.
- Empty grey water and cassettes only at disposal points, not in ditches or gorges: the national park is sensitive.
- Drinking water is good in the villages, but do not drink from springs in the mountains without treating it; fountains along hiking trails are rare.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in the Czech Republic. Arrive with well-filled cylinders and, for LPG refillable tanks, bring a suitable adapter; at some filling stations only staff fill up. Vehicles with LPG or CNG drive must not be parked in underground car parks and multi-storey car parks.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Vignette: vehicles up to 3.5 t need the electronic vignette on motorways and expressways, which is tied to the number plate; buy it online or at sales points; you choose the validity period when buying. Vehicles over 3.5 t are subject to a distance-based toll (portal myto.cz) on motorways, expressways and correspondingly signed sections. The route itself runs mostly on country roads.
- Speed limits: cars and motorhomes up to 3.5 t 50 km/h in built-up areas, 90 outside them, 110 on expressways and 130 on the motorway; motorhomes over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and on the motorway. Vehicles with trailers may drive at most 80 km/h outside built-up areas, on expressways and on the motorway. Dipped headlights or daytime running lights are required by day all year round.
- Mandatory equipment and rules: high-visibility vest, warning triangle, first-aid kit; 0.0 per mille alcohol; phone calls at the wheel only with a hands-free system; winter tyres from 1 November to 31 March in snow, ice, slush or temperatures below 4 °C (M+S marking, at least 4 mm tread).
- Dimensions: in Hřensko and in the villages of the national park the roads are narrow, with buses and pedestrians. It is better to plan a car park on the edge or in Mezní Louka and continue on foot. Fines are also imposed on tourists.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Crowns in cash: at the Pravčice Gate only cash is accepted, at the gorge ticket offices and in many inns in the national park cards do not work reliably, and there are no cash machines there.
- Hiking boots with a good tread and walking poles – the sandstone steps and ladders are slippery when wet.
- Offline map (Mapy.cz) and power bank: in the gorges and valleys there is often no reception.
- Tick protection and mosquito repellent for the forest and pond areas around Lake Mácha.
- Levelling ramps for the often sloping pitches and meadows, and a day pack with rain protection for the gorge, where it is cool and wet even in summer.

_As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Sources

- [promobil – Vollautomatischer Stellplatz in Krásná Lípa](https://www.promobil.de/uebernachtungstipps/neu-fuer-camper-in-tschechien-vollautomatischer-stellplatz-in-krasna-lipa/)
- [ADAC – Mit dem Fahrzeug in Tschechien (Camper und Gespanne)](https://www.adac.de/reise-freizeit/reiseplanung/reiseziele/tschechien/uebersicht/camper-gespanne)
- [ADAC – Mit dem Fahrzeug in Tschechien](https://www.adac.de/reise-freizeit/reiseplanung/reiseziele/tschechien/fahrzeug/)
- [ÖAMTC – Tschechien: Welche Verkehrsregeln sollte man unbedingt kennen?](https://www.oeamtc.at/laenderinfo/tschechien/tschechien-welche-verkehrsregeln-sollte-man-unbedingt-kennen-81348414)
- [Region Děčín (iDěčín) – National park by bus (Linien 434 und 438)](https://www.idecin.cz/en/national-park-by-bus)
- [KudyZNudy (CzechTourism) – Hora Luž, nejvyšší vrchol Lužických hor](https://www.kudyznudy.cz/aktivity/hora-luz-nejvyssi-vrchol-luzickych-hor)
- [KudyZNudy (CzechTourism) – Mariina vyhlídka v Českém Švýcarsku](https://www.kudyznudy.cz/aktivity/mariina-vyhlidka-v-ceskem-svycarsku)
- [Loudavým krokem – Prebischtor in der Böhmischen Schweiz: 6 Tipps für den Besuch 2026](https://loudavymkrokem.cz/de/prebischtor-boehmische-schweiz/)
- [Loudavým krokem – Kamnitzklamm in der Böhmischen Schweiz: Tipps für die Kahnfahrt](https://loudavymkrokem.cz/de/?p=252592)
- [Loudavým krokem – Jetřichovice Viewpoints (Brand Mai 2026)](https://loudavymkrokem.cz/en/?p=375497)
- [camping.info – STPL Sněžník](https://camping.info/en/campsite/stpl-sneznik)
- [Wikipedia – Zákupy (Koordinaten, Schlossgeschichte)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Z%C3%A1kupy)

## Which stops are on the route from Děčín to Doksy?

1. **Děčín** (Czechia)
2. **Tisá** (Czechia)
3. **Hřensko** (Czechia)
4. **Pravčická brána** (Hřensko, Czechia): The largest natural sandstone arch in Europe, spanning about 26 metres in Bohemian Switzerland National Park. Walk up from the Tři prameny car park near Hřensko in about an hour; an entry fee applies and winter opening is limited.
5. **Mezní Louka** (Czechia)
6. **Jetřichovice** (Czechia)
7. **Krásná Lípa** (Czechia)
8. **Chřibská** (Czechia)
9. **Jiřetín pod Jedlovou** (Czechia)
10. **Luž** (Czechia)
11. **Sloup v Čechách** (Czechia)
12. **Nový Bor** (Czechia)
13. **Česká Lípa** (Czechia)
14. **Doksy** (Czechia)

## When is the best time for the route from Děčín to Doksy?

The most pleasant months are usually June–September. Still fine, with some compromises, in May. Cold, short days in December–March. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## What should you know before driving the route from Děčín to Doksy?

Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €11 (Czechia, Vignette).

- **Czechia: Vignette needed for motorways.** Buy the e-vignette online before you drive on motorways. Motorway limit for cars: 130 km/h.

## FAQs

**How long is Rock arches, gorges and glass – by motorhome through Bohemian Switzerland and the Lusatian Mountains?**
7-day road trip of about 140 km (87 mi) with 14 stops, from Děčín to Doksy. About 1 h 56 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Rock arches, gorges and glass – by motorhome through Bohemian Switzerland and the Lusatian Mountains?**
We suggest 7 days: about 1 h 56 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Rock arches, gorges and glass – by motorhome through Bohemian Switzerland and the Lusatian Mountains start and end?**
It starts in Děčín and ends in Doksy.

**Which countries does Rock arches, gorges and glass – by motorhome through Bohemian Switzerland and the Lusatian Mountains pass through?**
Czechia.

**Where can you camp along Rock arches, gorges and glass – by motorhome through Bohemian Switzerland and the Lusatian Mountains?**
OpenStreetMap lists 108 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Hotel a kemp Formule, Autokemp Česká brána and U Ferdinanda.

**How much are the tolls on the route from Děčín to Doksy?**
Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €11 (Czechia, Vignette). Estimate with typical rates; motorhomes pay more, and vehicles over 3.5 t often pay by distance.