# Beach road, oyster beds and lighthouses in the fog – by camper from the mouth of the Columbia over the Long Beach Peninsula to Willapa Bay

> From the Columbia River at Cathlamet and Skamokawa via Cape Disappointment, the long sandy beach of the Long Beach Peninsula and the oyster villages of…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-556-washington-long-beach-willapa-bay/

**At a glance:** 6-day road trip of about 234 km (145 mi) with 14 stops, from Longview to Westport. About 2 h 36 min of driving in total. Best time to go: May–June and September. No toll roads expected for a car. From the Columbia River at Cathlamet and Skamokawa via Cape Disappointment, the long sandy beach of the Long Beach Peninsula and the oyster villages of Willapa Bay to Tokeland and Westport: around 380 kilometres of southwest Washington from Longview, where river, bay and Pacific run into one another.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | approx. 234 km (145 mi) |
| Driving | 2 h 36 min |
| Suggested days | 6 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Longview → Westport |
| States | WA |
| Best time to go | May–June and September |
| Tolls and vignettes | None expected |
| Updated | October 1, 2026 |

[Download GPX file](https://camping-spirit.com/gpx/rf-556-washington-long-beach-willapa-bay.gpx)

Practical guides for this route: [Driving in the US: The Rules European Visitors Most Often Get Wrong at the Wheel](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/us-driving-rules-visitors/), [Fuel, Tolls and Distances: Practical US Driving Math for Motorhome and Camper Travelers](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/us-fuel-tolls-distances/), [US national parks: entry fees, passes and reservations in plain terms](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/us-national-park-passes/)

*From the Columbia River at Cathlamet and Skamokawa via Cape Disappointment, the long sandy beach of the Long Beach Peninsula and the oyster villages of Willapa Bay to Tokeland and Westport: around 380 kilometres of southwest Washington from Longview, where river, bay and Pacific run into one another.*

## The spirit of the route

Here the Columbia River doesn't simply end, it fights the sea. On the bar off Cape Disappointment the waves break so violently that sailors call it the Graveyard of the Pacific, and it was right there that Lewis and Clark stood in relentless rain in November 1805 and saw the ocean for the first time. The route follows the river through marshland, stilt houses and fishing villages, then the landscape opens up: a narrow spit of sand where the beach itself counts as a road, and behind it the quiet Willapa Bay with its oyster beds, which surface glistening from the mud at low tide. From the sliding door you see driftwood, beach grass and fog banks drifting over the dunes; in the evening you hear the surf and the foghorn. It rains often, the wind is a permanent guest, and that is exactly what gives this coast its rough, honest character.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Longview to Skamokawa (approx. 55 km)

- **The drive:** If you start in Portland, you first drive around 75 kilometres north on the I-5 to Longview – purely a transfer, with no particular appeal. From Longview the SR-4 runs west as a two-lane country road along the north bank of the Columbia River: at first between the river and steep rock walls, winding in places and without a shoulder, with log trucks in the oncoming traffic. Beyond Stella the valley opens out, and marsh meadows, sloughs and stilt houses set the scene. Pure driving time under an hour. Last big supermarkets and cheap filling stations in Longview and Kelso.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Cathlamet and Puget Island: the small county seat sits on Elochoman Slough, and a bridge leads across to the flat river island of Puget Island with dairy pastures and dike roads – ideal for a bike loop. From the tip of the island the small Wahkiakum County Ferry shuttles to Westport in Oregon, the last car ferry on the lower Columbia; mentioned only as a side trip, capacity is limited, check operation and timetable beforehand.
  - Julia Butler Hansen National Wildlife Refuge west of Cathlamet: created for the Columbian white-tailed deer; from Steamboat Slough Road you often see deer, elk and herons in the meadows. Best early in the morning.
  - Skamokawa: former logging and fishing village on stilts above the water, with Redmen Hall (River Life Interpretive Center) on the hill and kayaking waters in the side channels of the river.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Skamokawa Vista Park: run by the local port district, right on the Columbia with a sandy beach, views of passing ocean-going freighters, pitches with hook-ups and a tent meadow, shower block. Alternative in Cathlamet: the RV area at Elochoman Slough Marina with pitches on the dike and hook-ups. For both, check facilities, length limits and reservations with the port district.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Between Longview and Skamokawa there is no public land for free camping; the pull-outs along the SR-4 and the car parks at the refuges are for day use only. Overnight stays on campgrounds only.
- **Insider tip for campers:** On the beach at Skamokawa Vista Park the freighters heading to Portland pass only a few hundred metres away; their bow waves run surprisingly far up the beach – don't leave chairs, kayaks or children right at the waterline. Fill up with fresh water in Cathlamet or Skamokawa, as supplies get thin until Ilwaco.

### Stage 2: Skamokawa to Cape Disappointment State Park (approx. 85 km)

- **The drive:** The SR-4 leaves the river and winds through wooded hill country to Grays River and Naselle, past logging clearings, creeks and a few tight bends. In Naselle take the SR-401 south, which winds back down to the wide mouth of the Columbia. At the north end of the Astoria-Megler Bridge you join the US-101 and follow it along the shore via Chinook to Ilwaco and the cape. Pure driving time around 1.5 hours. Filling stations in Naselle, Chinook and Ilwaco.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Grays River Covered Bridge: covered wooden bridge over the Grays River, just off the SR-4 – one of the last of its kind in Washington. With a large RV, park before the bridge and walk.
  - Dismal Nitch and Station Camp: sites of the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park on the SR-401 and US-101, where the expedition was stuck in a storm for days in November 1805. The Dismal Nitch rest area has toilets, information panels and the best view of the bridge to Astoria.
  - Fort Columbia Historical State Park near Chinook: coastal artillery fort from around 1900 with battery emplacements, wooden barracks and views across the river mouth; day use with a Discover Pass. If you cross the Astoria-Megler Bridge to Astoria, you'll find the Oregon coast covered in detail in the CampingSpirit guide to the Oregon Coast Highway 101.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Cape Disappointment State Park: large campground between forest, dunes and the beach at the North Jetty, pitches without hook-ups as well as with partial and full hook-ups, yurts, shower blocks, dump station (fee). Vehicle length up to 45 ft (around 13.7 metres). Because of construction work on the access road, entrance area and paths, the park has recently been restricted at times – check the current status before you arrive. Reservations via washington.goingtocamp.com; book early for summer and weekends.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Along the US-101 and the SR-401, overnight stays at rest areas are only permitted as a short rest break; camping is prohibited at Dismal Nitch and Fort Columbia. There is no legal free camping at the mouth of the Columbia.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The Astoria-Megler Bridge is toll-free but long, high and exposed to wind – in a storm, with an empty high-roof van or a trailer rig, better to wait. If you only want to go to Astoria for shopping or a workshop: that's where you'll find the region's larger supermarkets and hardware stores. Fill up in Ilwaco before the cape; diesel is more expensive on the peninsula.

### Stage 3: Cape Disappointment State Park to Long Beach (approx. 25 km)

- **The drive:** A short driving day with plenty of time on foot and by bike: from the campground to the two lighthouses, then through the harbour streets of Ilwaco and on the US-101 to Seaview and Long Beach. The spur roads to North Head and Beards Hollow are narrow, and the car parks there and at the Interpretive Center can't take RVs – leave the vehicle at the campground and go on foot or by bike.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center and Cape Disappointment Lighthouse: the museum on the cliffs above the river mouth tells the story of the expedition and the dreaded Columbia bar; a short forest path leads down to the white lighthouse of 1856, one of the oldest still active on the West Coast. Open daily in the summer half of the year, only on some weekdays in winter – check opening hours in advance.
  - North Head Lighthouse: on a windswept headland above the open Pacific, a place for storm watching in autumn and winter; the tower is open seasonally from May to the end of September. Charter boats and the fishing fleet lie in Ilwaco harbour, and the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum covers regional history.
  - Discovery Trail: paved cycling and walking path of around 13 kilometres (8.5 miles) from Ilwaco via Beards Hollow through the dunes to the north end of Long Beach, with sculptures on the Lewis and Clark story. In Long Beach a wooden boardwalk runs through the dunes parallel to the beach.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Second night at Cape Disappointment State Park. Otherwise there are only private RV parks on the entire Long Beach Peninsula; the pitches in the state park are the only public ones with a dump station and showers.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Long Beach and Seaview, overnight stays on streets, beach approaches and car parks are prohibited, and camping or sleeping in a vehicle on the beach itself is also forbidden. No legal free camping on the peninsula.
- **Insider tip for campers:** If you want to experience the beach as a road, it's best done with a small, off-road-capable vehicle – a heavy RV has no business in the sand. The stretch of beach between Bolstad Avenue in Long Beach and 38th Avenue in Seaview is closed to vehicles from 15 April until the day after Labor Day; Benson Beach in front of the state park is closed year-round. The North Jetty is closed, or will be closed, because of multi-year construction work by the Army Corps of Engineers – check the status in advance.

### Stage 4: Long Beach to Leadbetter Point (approx. 40 km)

- **The drive:** Dead straight north on the SR-103 across the narrow peninsula: on the left, behind a strip of pines and dunes, the ocean; on the right, cranberry bogs and Willapa Bay. Speeds of 35–50 mph, many driveways and pedestrians in the towns. Beyond Ocean Park it becomes rural; via Nahcotta and Oysterville you continue on Stackpole Road to the Leadbetter Point car park. Pure driving time under an hour, and the same way back, because there is no other road.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Klipsan Beach and Ocean Park: the former lifesaving station at Klipsan Beach recalls the days when crews rowed through the surf to wrecks. Ocean Park is the quieter town on the peninsula, with a beach approach and small shops.
  - Nahcotta and Oysterville: Nahcotta is the centre of oyster farming on the bay, with mounds of shells and fishing boats in the small harbour and a seasonally open information centre on Willapa Bay. Oysterville, which grew rich in the 19th century on oysters for San Francisco, is a historic-district village with a white church, wooden houses and oysters sold right on the bay.
  - Leadbetter Point: the northern tip of the peninsula, partly state park and partly Willapa National Wildlife Refuge, with trails through shore pines, dunes and marsh between bay and ocean. Shorebirds in large numbers during migration; parts of the beach are closed during the snowy plover nesting season – observe the signs.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** There is no public campground at the north end of the peninsula. Either go back to Cape Disappointment State Park (around 40 kilometres) or continue to the next stage on the east side of the bay, where Bruceport County Park lies near South Bend. If you want to stay on the peninsula, book one of the private RV parks in Long Beach or Ocean Park.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Leadbetter Point State Park and the refuge are day-use areas only; overnight stays are prohibited. The beaches north of the Oysterville approach are closed to vehicles (year-round from the northern tip to the southern boundary of Leadbetter Point State Park, and the stretch from there to Oysterville from 15 April until the day after Labor Day).
- **Insider tip for campers:** At Leadbetter Point the trails are often flooded ankle-deep after rain – pack rubber boots. In Nahcotta and Oysterville you can buy fresh oysters straight from the grower; harvesting oysters or clams yourself on public tideflats is only allowed with a licence and only on expressly designated public beds – most of the bay's tidelands are privately owned by the farms. Check the Department of Health's biotoxin map beforehand.

### Stage 5: Leadbetter Point to Raymond (approx. 110 km)

- **The drive:** Back on the SR-103 to Seaview, then on the US-101 around the south end of Willapa Bay and north along the east shore. The road hugs the bay, with views of tideflats, oyster stakes and the forested Long Island, with winding sections through the forest in between. At low tide wide mudflats lie exposed; at high tide the water reaches right up to the road embankment. Pure driving time around 1.5 hours. Filling stations and shopping in South Bend and Raymond.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Willapa National Wildlife Refuge: at the headquarters on the US-101 there is information and a short interpretive trail; Long Island with its ancient western redcedar grove can only be reached by boat. In spring and autumn the bay is an important stopover for brant and shorebirds.
  - South Bend: self-proclaimed Oyster Capital of the World, with oyster bars, processing plants on the Willapa River and the Pacific County Courthouse on the hill, whose colourful glass dome is worth seeing from inside.
  - Raymond: old sawmill town with steel sculptures of people and animals along the streets, the Willapa Seaport Museum and access to the Willapa Hills State Park Trail, a rail trail that runs via South Bend to Chehalis.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Bruceport County Park: Pacific County campground between Bay Center and South Bend on a rise above Willapa Bay, mostly pitches without hook-ups and some with, toilets and coin-operated showers; a path leads down to the bay, where mainly mudflats are exposed at low tide. Alternative: Raymond RV Park, run by the Port of Willapa Harbor, by the river in Raymond, pitches with hook-ups, close to the centre. Check facilities, season and reservations in advance for each.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Overnight stays are prohibited on refuge land, and the car parks are open during the day only. The hinterland of the Willapa Hills has plenty of commercial forest, but it mostly belongs to timber companies with their own access rules; don't stay overnight there without explicit permission.
- **Insider tip for campers:** On the bay, oysters are cheapest straight from the farms' own outlets, often also shucked in jars. If you like cycling, start on the flat Willapa Hills Trail in Raymond or South Bend – the RV can stay at the trailhead, but not overnight.

### Stage 6: Raymond to Westport (approx. 65 km)

- **The drive:** On the SR-105 through marshland and forest back to the north side of Willapa Bay, a detour onto the Tokeland peninsula, then north along the coast through Grayland with its cranberry bogs to Westport at the entrance to Grays Harbor. Flat, well-built country road, speeds mostly 50–55 mph, strong crosswinds on the coast. Pure driving time around one hour. Filling stations and a supermarket in Westport.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Tokeland: remote village on a spit in Willapa Bay, home of the Shoalwater Bay Tribe, with the historic Tokeland Hotel from the late 19th century, a small marina and views across the bay to the Long Beach Peninsula.
  - Grayland: long, drawn-out coastal village between cranberry bogs and a wide beach; in autumn, at harvest time, the flooded fields glow red. Here too, sections of beach are open to vehicles – same rules as on the Long Beach Peninsula.
  - Westport: fishing harbour with an observation tower at the marina, the Grays Harbor Lighthouse of 1898, Washington's tallest lighthouse, in Westport Light State Park, and the surfing beach of Westhaven State Park by the jetty. Ocosta Elementary School in Westport has North America's first purpose-built tsunami refuge platform – a sign of how seriously the danger is taken here.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Grayland Beach State Park: campground behind the dunes with a short walk to the beach, pitches with hook-ups, shower block; reservations via washington.goingtocamp.com. Alternative: the larger Twin Harbors State Park south of Westport with a dump station, also bookable through the state parks reservation system; check the season and which areas are open in advance. If you want to continue north, you'll find Aberdeen, Lake Quinault and the Olympic Peninsula in the CampingSpirit guide to the Olympic Peninsula.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Westport and Grayland, overnight stays at the marina, on beach approaches and on the beach are prohibited. The nearest areas with dispersed camping lie far inland in the Olympic National Forest.
- **Insider tip for campers:** At the Westport marina the charter boats leave early in the morning, when the streets and car parks at the harbour are full – with an RV, better to arrive in late morning or park on the edge of town and walk to the observation tower. In the event of a tsunami alert or a strong earthquake, blue signs lead to the evacuation routes; walk the nearest route in town and at the campground on your first evening.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- Washington only allows overnight stays at designated sites. On this route there is no National Forest or BLM land for dispersed camping; towns such as Long Beach, Ilwaco and Westport prohibit sleeping in a vehicle on streets, car parks and beach approaches.
- Beach: even though the beaches of the Long Beach Peninsula and Grayland legally count as a public highway, camping or sleeping in a vehicle there is prohibited.
- Rest areas on Washington's highways may be used for a rest break of up to eight hours, not for setting up camp. Supermarket car parks only with the explicit permission of the store.
- Washington State Parks: reservations via washington.goingtocamp.com, up to nine months in advance; some sites are also allocated without reservation. For day visits without an overnight stay (Fort Columbia, Leadbetter Point, Westport Light) you need a Discover Pass (annual or day pass, check the current price); campers are exempt during their stay in the respective park. The pass is also valid on DNR and WDFW land.
- Federal lands: at US national parks, visitors without US residency sometimes pay higher fees and surcharges; check current amounts on nps.gov. The Lewis and Clark National Historical Park sites on this route are freely accessible.
- Apps: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt and the Washington State Parks website; Park4Night is not widely used.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Dump stations: Cape Disappointment State Park (fee), Twin Harbors State Park and Skamokawa Vista Park; ask in advance at the marina in Cathlamet and in Bruceport; private RV parks on the peninsula for guests only.
- Drinking water: at campgrounds and harbour facilities; tap water is drinkable. There is no water near the lighthouses or at the refuges.
- Empty grey water and chemical toilets only at dump stations; discharging into the bay, marsh or sand is strictly prohibited and endangers oyster farming.
- Propane: hardware stores, filling stations and some campgrounds in Longview, Astoria, Long Beach, Raymond and Westport fill US cylinders; European cylinders are generally not filled.
- Electricity: state park sites with 30, some with 50 A. Generators only as permitted by the parks' quiet-hour rules.
- Shopping and fuel: Longview/Kelso, Astoria, Ilwaco, Long Beach, Ocean Park, South Bend, Raymond and Westport; hardly any supplies between Skamokawa and Naselle.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits: mostly 50–60 mph on the US-101 and state routes, 25–35 mph in towns. In Washington, vehicles towing a trailer may drive at no more than 60 mph. Phones at the wheel hands-free only; even holding the device is prohibited.
- Driving on the beach: the beaches count as a highway – vehicle, driving licence and registration must be roadworthy and valid, speed limit 25 mph, pedestrians have right of way. Drive only on the hard sand, never in the dunes or beach grass and not through the clam beds on the lower beach. Closed are Benson Beach in front of Cape Disappointment year-round, Leadbetter Point to the southern boundary of the state park year-round, and from 15 April until the day after Labor Day the stretch from Leadbetter to the Oysterville approach and the Seaview–Bolstad Avenue stretch in Long Beach. Violations are punished as infractions.
- Tides and waves: only drive onto the beach on a falling tide, give high tide a wide berth and check tide tables. Soft sand, tidal channels and sudden sneaker waves leave vehicles stuck; towing is expensive and salt water destroys underbody and brakes. Don't drive onto the beach with heavy RVs or trailer rigs.
- Tsunami: the entire coast lies off the Cascadia Subduction Zone and mostly within the tsunami hazard zone. In a strong or long-lasting earthquake, don't wait for warnings – immediately follow the blue evacuation signs on foot inland or to higher ground. Use local sirens and warning apps.
- Rain and storms: from October to April it rains often and heavily; winter storms bring hurricane-force gusts, fallen trees, power cuts and flooding on the bay roads. Bridges such as the Astoria-Megler Bridge are risky for tall, empty vehicles in a storm; check the weather with the National Weather Service.
- Shellfish harvesting: for razor clams a licence from the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife is required, and digging is only allowed on the days and tides announced by WDFW, each digger with their own container and their own daily limit. Oysters and clams only with a licence and only on designated public beds; check the biotoxin status beforehand.
- Tolls: there are no tolls on the entire route; the Astoria-Megler Bridge is free. The Wahkiakum County Ferry charges a fee, vehicle size is limited.
- Emergency: 911. Mobile coverage on the coast is mostly adequate, patchy in places on the SR-4 between Skamokawa and Naselle and at Leadbetter Point.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Tide table or tide app with the Long Beach/Willapa Bay station: decides beach drives, clam digging and tideflat walks.
- Waterproof rain gear and rubber boots: for persistent rain, flooded trails at Leadbetter Point and the tideflats of Willapa Bay.
- Clam gun or narrow clam shovel, mesh bag and the WDFW licence (available online): for razor clam digs on the open days.
- Recovery kit with sand ladders, tow strap and compressor for deflating and reinflating tyres: in case you do drive onto the beach with a light camper.
- Weather radio with NOAA alerts or a warning app with tsunami alerts: mobile coverage isn't reliable everywhere, and the warning time can be short.
- Bikes: the Discovery Trail and the Willapa Hills Trail are flat, and there is no RV parking at the lighthouses and museums.

_As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Sources

- [Washington State Parks – Cape Disappointment State Park](https://parks.wa.gov/find-parks/state-parks/cape-disappointment-state-park)
- [Washington State Parks – Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center](https://parks.wa.gov/node/545)
- [Washington State Parks – Press Release: Cape Disappointment construction and camping closure](https://parks.wa.gov/node/3027)
- [Washington State Parks – Twin Harbors Campground map (2025)](https://parks.wa.gov/sites/default/files/2025-07/Twin%20Harbors%20Campground%202025%20%28PDF%2C%20681KB%29.pdf)
- [Washington State Parks – Discover Pass](https://parks.wa.gov/discover-pass)
- [WDFW – Discover Pass](https://wdfw.wa.gov/licensing/discoverpass/)
- [Cornell LII – WAC 352-37-040 Long Beach Peninsula](https://www.law.cornell.edu/regulations/washington/WAC-352-37-040)
- [Cornell LII – WAC Chapter 352-37 Ocean beaches](https://www.law.cornell.edu/regulations/washington/title-352/chapter-352-37)
- [Lower Columbia Estuary Partnership – Skamokawa Vista Park](https://www.estuarypartnership.org/locations/campsite/skamokawa-vista-park)
- [Lower Columbia Estuary Partnership – Elochoman Marina](https://www.estuarypartnership.org/locations/campsite/elochoman-marina)
- [Campendium – Bruceport County Park](https://www.campendium.com/bruceport-county-park)

## Which stops are on the route from Longview to Westport?

1. **Longview** (WA)
2. **Cathlamet** (WA)
3. **Skamokawa** (WA)
4. **Fort Columbia** (WA)
5. **Cape Disappointment** (WA)
6. **Ilwaco** (WA)
7. **Long Beach** (WA)
8. **Ocean Park** (WA)
9. **Oysterville** (WA)
10. **Leadbetter Point** (WA)
11. **South Bend** (WA)
12. **Raymond** (WA)
13. **Tokeland** (WA)
14. **Westport** (WA)

## When is the best time for the route from Longview to Westport?

The most pleasant months are usually May–June and September. Still fine, with some compromises, in April, July–August and October. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## FAQs

**How long is Beach road, oyster beds and lighthouses in the fog – by camper from the mouth of the Columbia over the Long Beach Peninsula to Willapa Bay?**
6-day road trip of about 234 km (145 mi) with 14 stops, from Longview to Westport. About 2 h 36 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Beach road, oyster beds and lighthouses in the fog – by camper from the mouth of the Columbia over the Long Beach Peninsula to Willapa Bay?**
We suggest 6 days: about 2 h 36 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Beach road, oyster beds and lighthouses in the fog – by camper from the mouth of the Columbia over the Long Beach Peninsula to Willapa Bay start and end?**
It starts in Longview and ends in Westport.

**Which states does Beach road, oyster beds and lighthouses in the fog – by camper from the mouth of the Columbia over the Long Beach Peninsula to Willapa Bay pass through?**
Washington.

**Where can you camp along Beach road, oyster beds and lighthouses in the fog – by camper from the mouth of the Columbia over the Long Beach Peninsula to Willapa Bay?**
OpenStreetMap lists 118 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 19 mi of the stops on this route. For example: Cape Disappointment State Park Campground, Ocean City State Park Campground and County Line Park.