# Rockslide, quartzite and Walser villages – by camper along the Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein through Graubünden

> From Chur through the Ruinaulta to Ilanz, Vals and Disentis, then up the Hinterrhein via Andeer and Splügen to the San Bernardino Pass: a good 300…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-553-surselva-rheinwald-ruinaulta/

**At a glance:** 8-day road trip of about 205 km (127 mi) with 14 stops, from Chur to Passo del San Bernardino. About 2 h 50 min of driving in total. Best time to go: June–August. Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €40 (Switzerland, Vignette). From Chur through the Ruinaulta to Ilanz, Vals and Disentis, then up the Hinterrhein via Andeer and Splügen to the San Bernardino Pass: a good 300 kilometres to the two headwaters of the Rhine, on valley roads that call for more patience than horsepower.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | approx. 205 km (127 mi) |
| Driving | 2 h 50 min |
| Suggested days | 8 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Chur → Passo del San Bernardino |
| Countries | Switzerland |
| Best time to go | June–August |
| Tolls and vignettes | ≈ €40 |
| Updated | October 1, 2026 |

[Download GPX file](https://camping-spirit.com/gpx/rf-553-surselva-rheinwald-ruinaulta.gpx)

Practical guides for this route: [Switzerland and Austria by motorhome: vignettes, limits and overnight rules](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/eu-switzerland-austria-by-motorhome/)

*From Chur through the Ruinaulta to Ilanz, Vals and Disentis, then up the Hinterrhein via Andeer and Splügen to the San Bernardino Pass: a good 300 kilometres to the two headwaters of the Rhine, on valley roads that call for more patience than horsepower.*

## The spirit of the route

Here the Rhine is still a mountain river, green and cold, and you follow it to where it is born from scree and snow. Around 9,500 years ago an entire mountain crashed into the valley near Flims; since then the river has eaten its way through the white debris, and the Ruinaulta, with its crumbling limestone walls and pine-covered slopes, looks as if someone had moved the Grand Canyon into the Alps. Through the sliding door comes the smell of resin and hay, and the Rhaetian Railway rattles along down by the water. Higher up the valleys grow narrower: in the Valsertal the roofs are made of stone slabs, in the Lumnezia churches stand on rocky spurs, and along the Hinterrhein Walser villages with dark log buildings line up one after another. Romansh on the place-name signs, cowbells in the morning, clear water in the village fountain at night – a route of short stages and long evenings.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Chur to Flims (approx. 25 km)

- **The drive:** Chur serves only as a starting point: on the A13 to the Reichenau exit, over the Rhine bridge at the confluence of the Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein, and on main road 19 up in hairpins to Trin and Flims. Well built but busy, with a few village through-roads; pure driving time around 30 minutes. The road runs over the deposits of the Flims rockslide, hence the restless, wooded terrain.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Reichenau: view from the bridge of the confluence of the Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein, with the castle behind.
  - Caumasee in the Flims forest: a green-turquoise lake with no surface inflow, circular path through the pine forest; in the bathing season access to the lido is subject to a charge.
  - Crestasee near Trin-Mulin, smaller and quieter than the Caumasee, and the megalithic site Parc la Mutta in Falera above Laax.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** TCS Camping Flims on the edge of Flims Waldhaus, within walking distance of the Caumasee and the Flims forest; electricity, sanitary facilities and water and waste disposal; check opening times and motorhome sizes with the TCS. Quieter and smaller is Camping Trin below Trin on the road to Flims.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** There is no uniform cantonal rule in Graubünden for spending the night in a vehicle; what counts are the municipalities' regulations and the signage, and on private land you need the owner's permission. In a tourist region like Flims-Laax the large car parks at lakes and mountain railways are meant for daytime use – prohibition signs and parking regulations take precedence, and camping behaviour can be fined. Plan on the campsite here.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Fill up and do your shopping in Chur or Domat/Ems; in Flims and Laax both are more expensive. For the Caumasee, leave the camper at the campsite and walk through the forest; the car parks in Flims Waldhaus fill up quickly in summer, and multi-storey car parks have height restrictions.

### Stage 2: Flims to Valendas (Ruinaulta) (approx. 35 km)

- **The drive:** Back down to Reichenau and via Bonaduz onto the south side of the gorge: the road to Versam climbs in curves, runs along slopes above the Ruinaulta and after Versam reaches the village of Valendas. Narrower than main road 19, with PostBus traffic and a few narrow village through-roads, generally drivable for motorhomes of the usual size; observe signs with restrictions. About 45 minutes’ driving.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Il Spir viewing platform near Conn: the cantilevered steel structure by Chur architect Corinna Menn above the gorge, on foot from Flims Waldhaus in around an hour through the Flims forest – best in the morning before you set off.
  - Footpath through the Ruinaulta between the Rhaetian Railway stations (such as Versam-Safien and Valendas-Sagogn) right by the river, with the train for the way back.
  - Rafting on the Vorderrhein between Ilanz and Reichenau, organised in the summer season by several operators in the region; Valendas itself with its stately village square and the large fountain.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Carrera in the hamlet of Carrera near Valendas, almost in the Rhine gorge; a simple, natural site with a short season in late summer and autumn – check opening times, electric hook-ups and pitches for larger motorhomes with the operator in advance.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The Ruinaulta is a protected landscape; the gravel banks along the river are rafting put-ins and natural habitat, not places to park up. At the viewpoints on the Versam road there are only small lay-bys with no room to stay overnight. If you want to stay off-site, you need an expressly permitted spot – and there are hardly any on offer in this area.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The train is the best tool here: leave the camper at the site, take the Rhaetian Railway into the gorge and walk back through it. On the Versam road you will meet oncoming PostBuses – give way to them at narrow points, as applies on mountain postal roads anyway.

### Stage 3: Valendas to Vals (approx. 35 km)

- **The drive:** Via Castrisch to Ilanz, through the town and at the roundabout into the Valsertal. The Vals road branches off from the Lumnezia at Uors and climbs through the narrow, avalanche-prone gorge with galleries and tunnels to Vals. Wide enough for PostBus and motorhome, but winding, and in some places two large vehicles cannot pass each other. A good 45 minutes.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Ilanz/Glion, “the first town on the Rhine”: a small old town with the Obertor gate, remains of the town wall and burghers' houses.
  - 7132 Therme (Therme Vals) by Peter Zumthor, built in 1996 from Vals quartzite; if you are not staying at the hotel, you can only get in with a ticket booked online in advance, and the allocation is limited – check times in advance.
  - Stone-slab roofs in the village and the quartzite quarries above Vals; plus the Zervreila reservoir with the Zervreilahorn at the head of the valley.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Motorhome stopover at the valley station of the Vals mountain railway, open from April to November according to Graubünden Ferien, with electricity, water and waste disposal and toilets; overnight stays only in the signposted night or long-stay area, daily fee (27 CHF according to Graubünden Ferien) at the mountain railway's machine.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Vals the stopover at the mountain railway is the intended solution. In the car parks in the village and on the Zervreila road: parking yes, overnight stays only where expressly permitted. The slopes are privately owned alpine pastures.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The road to the Zervreila reservoir above Vals is narrow and winding, runs through a tunnel and has only a few passing places; observe the signage and any restrictions, and with a large motorhome better take the PostBus. Do your shopping in Ilanz before driving up the valley – Vals has only small shops, and prices to match.

### Stage 4: Vals to Ilanz via Val Lumnezia and Vrin (approx. 55 km)

- **The drive:** Down the valley to Uors and on towards Ilanz, then up on the sunny side into the Val Lumnezia via Cumbel and Vella to Lumbrein and Vrin. Well built as far as Vella, narrower beyond, with tight village through-roads and short steep ramps. Back on the same road to Ilanz. About 1.5 hours’ pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - The Pleif church near Vella on the spur above the valley, one of the finest views into the Lumnezia.
  - Vrin, winner of the Wakker Prize: timber buildings by architect Gion A. Caminada among old barns, plus the Baroque church with its ossuary.
  - Panoramic view from the Mundaun (Obersaxen Mundaun) down into the Surselva, by mountain railway or on foot.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Surcuolm on the sunny terrace of Obersaxen Mundaun above Ilanz, with electricity and sanitary facilities; ask about the season and motorhome pitches in advance. Closer to the valley is the stopover of the municipality of Schluein not far from Ilanz, with a few pitches; check facilities and fees in advance.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The municipality of Lumnezia provides information on its website about camping in the valley and designates its own spots; outside these, overnight stays in the open are not intended. In wildlife rest zones and hunting ban areas they are prohibited anyway, and in winter so is entering certain areas.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Beyond Vrin the road towards Puzzatsch and Vanescha becomes very narrow and has hardly any turning places – with a larger motorhome don't drive beyond Vrin, and plan where to turn in advance. In the Lumnezia and the Valsertal, watch for signs with length, width or weight restrictions at junctions; what they say applies, even if the satnav calculates otherwise.

### Stage 5: Ilanz to Disentis/Mustér (approx. 30 km)

- **The drive:** On main road 19 up the Surselva via Tavanasa and Trun to Disentis. A wide, well-built valley road with few village through-roads, some climbing in the last section. A good 30 minutes’ driving; if you like, take a detour to Brigels on its sunny terrace.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Trun: the Cuort Ligia Grischa museum in the former abbey court and St. Anne's Chapel, memorial site of the founding of the Grey League in 1424.
  - Disentis Benedictine monastery with its Baroque twin-tower façade above the village; the church and monastery museum are open during opening hours.
  - View into the Val Medel towards the Lukmanier and of the Medel gorge south of Disentis.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** TCS Camping Disentis south of the village near the Rhine, with electricity and sanitary facilities; check season dates and motorhome sizes with the TCS. Further down the valley is Campingplatz Trun, smaller and quieter.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Surselva there are often signs at mountain railways and pass approaches prohibiting overnight stays or camping; where there is no sign, the municipality or the landowner decides. If in doubt, ask at the tourist office or the municipality – that is normal in Switzerland and saves you a fine.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The Oberalp Pass (2,044 m) with Lai da Tuma, considered the source of the Vorderrhein, is quickly reached from Disentis via Sedrun; as a detour from Andermatt it also features in the CampingSpirit guide over the Susten, Grimsel, Nufenen and Gotthard. The pass is closed in winter. A footpath leads from the top of the pass to the little lake.

### Stage 6: Disentis/Mustér to Thusis (approx. 75 km)

- **The drive:** Back along the Surselva on main road 19 via Ilanz, Laax and Flims to Reichenau, then on the A13 through the Domleschg to Thusis. Alternating valley road and motorway, a good hour’s driving. For the A13, vehicles up to 3.5 t need the vignette.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Castles in the Domleschg: Schloss Ortenstein and the ruins on the slope east of the motorway, at their finest in the evening light.
  - Heinzenberg above Thusis: a panoramic road with views of Piz Beverin and the Domleschg.
  - Schloss Rhäzüns on its rock above the Hinterrhein, clearly visible from the river.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Wohnmobil-Stellplatz +plus+ Heinzenberg-Lescha above Thusis, quiet with a far-reaching view; check facilities and booking with the operator. In the valley is TCS Camping Thusis Viamala, easy to reach from the A13.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The walkers' car parks on the Heinzenberg and in the Domleschg are meant for daytime use. Alpine roads often have a general driving ban with the addition “agriculture and forestry permitted” – which also excludes campers.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Thusis is the last larger town with inexpensive supermarkets and petrol stations before the Hinterrhein; top up water and gas here. The Viamala gorge begins just south of Thusis; Thusis is also a stage destination in the CampingSpirit guide through Graubünden and the Engadine.

### Stage 7: Thusis to Andeer (approx. 20 km)

- **The drive:** On the old cantonal road or the A13 through the Viamala, stop briefly at the car park by the gorge, then into the open Schams to Zillis and Andeer. A short, straightforward stage; with a detour to the Roffla gorge south of Andeer (around 8 km there and back) about an hour’s driving.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Viamala gorge: stairs down to the bridges over the Hinterrhein, admission charge, seasonal operation.
  - St. Martin's Church in Zillis with its Romanesque painted ceiling from the 12th century, 153 painted wooden panels.
  - Roffla gorge: a gallery path behind the waterfall, blasted into the rock by an innkeeper in the early 20th century; access via the inn on the road, admission charge.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Andeer Sut Baselgia on the edge of the village, with electricity, sanitary facilities and water and waste disposal, within walking distance of the Mineralbad Andeer. An alternative is Camping Rania near Zillis, a small site on a farm.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Schams there is a good choice of campsites; off-site overnight spots are not intended. The car parks at the Viamala and the Roffla gorge belong to the attractions and are not places to spend the night.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The Mineralbad Andeer with its thermal water is a cheaper and quieter alternative to Vals. Andeer's main street has fine sgraffito façades; with the motorhome use the bypass and walk into the village.

### Stage 8: Andeer to San Bernardino Pass (approx. 35 km)

- **The drive:** Through the Rofla narrows up into the Rheinwald, past the Sufnersee to Splügen, then on via Medels and Nufenen to Hinterrhein, where the A13 disappears into the tunnel. The pass road to the San Bernardino climbs in hairpins to around 2,065 m, well built but with tight radii at the top. About an hour’s driving. For the return or the way into Ticino, the San Bernardino tunnel takes traffic all year round.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Splügen: a Walser village with stone palazzi of the mule-trading families and dark wooden houses, winner of the Wakker Prize.
  - Sufnersee, a reservoir below the road, with a view of the Rheinwaldhorn massif.
  - Top of the San Bernardino Pass with Lago Moesola – a walk over the rock slabs with a view back into the Rheinwald, where the Hinterrhein rises at the head of the Zapport.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Splügen on the edge of the village, with sanitary facilities and water and waste disposal; check the season in advance. Small stopover at the Hotel Seeblick in Sufers, with a few pitches. From the top of the pass back to Splügen is just under 20 km.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** On the pass and in the Rheinwald the car parks are not designated for overnight stays; watch for signs. Near Hinterrhein there is an army firing range – observe firing notices and barriers on the footpaths.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The Splügen Pass (2,113 m) branches off to Italy at Splügen; the Italian side has tight hairpins and galleries and is not well suited to large motorhomes and car-and-caravan combinations. The San Bernardino and Splügen passes are closed in winter, with dates depending on the snow; the tunnel stays open but may be closed at night for construction work; traffic is then diverted over the pass road, which is impassable when it snows – check traffic information.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- Switzerland has no national wild camping law; cantons and municipalities regulate overnight stays outside campsites. In Graubünden it is mainly the municipal regulations and the signage that count, and on private land (meadows, alpine pastures, farm access roads) you need the owner's permission. Camping behaviour with table, chairs, awning or fire is not allowed in car parks.
- In nature reserves, wildlife rest zones and federal hunting ban areas, overnight stays and camping are generally prohibited; wildlife rest zones are closed especially in winter and spring. The level of fines varies from municipality to municipality.
- You can stay legally at campsites (directories: camping.ch, TCS camping guide), at municipal and private stopovers and on farms. Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact; for Graubünden the Graubünden Ferien website also provides information on wild camping.
- If you are unsure, ask at the tourist office or the municipality – many municipalities in the Surselva have their own rules and designate spots.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Water and waste disposal is available at campsites and selected stopovers such as the one at the Vals mountain railway; the stations often charge a fee, and some are for guests only.
- Empty the chemical toilet and grey water only at disposal stations; in mountain valleys, streams flow directly into drinking-water intakes.
- Tap and fountain water in Graubünden is mostly drinking water; avoid fountains marked “Kein Trinkwasser” (not drinking water).
- Gas: foreign exchange bottles are not swapped in Switzerland; Campingaz is available from specialist shops and at some petrol stations, and LPG filling stations are rare. Arrive with full bottles and carry the right adapter.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Vignette: the A13 between Chur, Thusis and the San Bernardino tunnel requires a vignette. For vehicles up to 3.5 t the annual vignette applies (40 CHF, as an e-vignette linked to the number plate or as a sticker); a trailer needs its own. Motorhomes over 3.5 t pay the flat-rate heavy vehicle charge (PSVA) instead of the vignette, purchased from the BAZG via the Via app; check amounts by weight and duration in advance.
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 120 km/h on the motorway, 100 km/h on expressways, 80 km/h outside built-up areas, 50 km/h in built-up areas; over 3.5 t 100 km/h on motorways and expressways. Car-and-caravan combinations drive at 80 km/h outside built-up areas and on expressways, and at 80 or 100 km/h on the motorway depending on weight. Maximum dimensions: 4.00 m height, 2.55 m width, 12 m length for single vehicles, 18.75 m for combinations. On valley roads such as those into the Lumnezia, to Vals and Zervreila, signs may impose stricter length, width or weight limits.
- Passes: the San Bernardino, Splügen and Oberalp are closed in winter, with dates depending on the snow; check the status on the TCS passes portal or with the Graubünden civil engineering office. In winter a Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn car train usually runs between Andermatt and Sedrun; other car trains (Furka, Vereina) connect to other regions – check height and length limits for motorhomes in advance.
- On mountain postal roads the PostBus has priority; on narrow roads the vehicle going downhill stops. Dipped headlights or daytime running lights are compulsory, the limit is 0.5 per mille, and phone calls only with a hands-free kit.
- Winter equipment is not generally compulsory, but anyone who obstructs traffic with unsuitable tyres is liable; from October it can snow on the San Bernardino, and chains belong on board. Projecting loads such as bikes must be marked, and number plates and lights must not be covered.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Walking boots with good tread – the paths through the Ruinaulta are sandy and slippery, and the way to Il Spir and at the Viamala goes over roots and steps.
- Swimwear and bathrobe for the thermal baths in Vals and Andeer; book ahead in Vals.
- Binoculars for ibex and chamois on the slopes of the Rheinwald and for the rafting boats down in the gorge.
- Small change in francs or a card for parking meters, disposal stations and the machine at the Vals mountain railway.
- Snow chains for the drive axle – the San Bernardino and Oberalp can turn white as early as early autumn.
- Levelling ramps: the stopovers in Vals and on the Heinzenberg are not level everywhere.

_As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Sources

- [Graubünden Ferien – Stellplatz Bergbahn Vals](https://www.graubuenden.ch/de/beherbergung/stellplatz-bergbahn-vals)
- [7132 – Therme: Informationen für Tagesgäste](https://7132.com/en/therme/visitors/)
- [Graubünden Ferien – Camping Carrera (Valendas)](https://www.graubuenden.ch/en/lodging/camping-carrera)
- [Graubünden Ferien – Wild campen: Regeln und Alternativen](https://www.graubuenden.ch/de/news-tipps/2020/07/wild-campen-regeln-und-alternativen)
- [Bundesamt für Strassen ASTRA – A13 San-Bernardino-Tunnel: nächtliche Sperrungen](https://www.astra.admin.ch/de/a13-san-bernardino-tunnel-naechtliche-sperrungen)
- [Valtellina Mobile – Spluga da capogiro (Sonntagssperren SS36)](https://valtellinamobile.it/spluga-da-capogiro/)
- [Graubünden Ferien – Ratgeber: Wild campen](https://www.graubuenden.ch/de/buchen/unterkuenfte/camping/wild-campen)
- [ADAC – Schweiz: Nachtsperren im San-Bernardino-Tunnel](https://www.adac.de/news/san-bernardino-tunnel-nachtsperren/)

## Which stops are on the route from Chur to Passo del San Bernardino?

1. **Chur** (Switzerland)
2. **Flims** (Switzerland)
3. **Versam** (Switzerland)
4. **Valendas** (Switzerland)
5. **Ilanz/Glion** (Switzerland)
6. **Vals** (Switzerland)
7. **Vrin** (Switzerland)
8. **Trun** (Switzerland)
9. **Disentis/Mustér** (Switzerland)
10. **Thusis** (Switzerland)
11. **Andeer** (Switzerland)
12. **Splügen** (Switzerland)
13. **Hinterrhein** (Switzerland)
14. **Passo del San Bernardino** (Switzerland)

## When is the best time for the route from Chur to Passo del San Bernardino?

The most pleasant months are usually June–August. Still fine, with some compromises, in May and September. Cold, short days in December–March. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## What should you know before driving the route from Chur to Passo del San Bernardino?

Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €40 (Switzerland, Vignette).

- **Switzerland: Vignette needed for motorways.** Vehicles over 3.5 t pay the heavy vehicle charge instead of the vignette. Motorway limit for cars: 120 km/h.

## FAQs

**How long is Rockslide, quartzite and Walser villages – by camper along the Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein through Graubünden?**
8-day road trip of about 205 km (127 mi) with 14 stops, from Chur to Passo del San Bernardino. About 2 h 50 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Rockslide, quartzite and Walser villages – by camper along the Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein through Graubünden?**
We suggest 8 days: about 2 h 50 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Rockslide, quartzite and Walser villages – by camper along the Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein through Graubünden start and end?**
It starts in Chur and ends in Passo del San Bernardino.

**Which countries does Rockslide, quartzite and Walser villages – by camper along the Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein through Graubünden pass through?**
Switzerland.

**Where can you camp along Rockslide, quartzite and Walser villages – by camper along the Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein through Graubünden?**
OpenStreetMap lists 82 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Camping Pradafenz, Camping Trin and Camping Surcuolm.

**How much are the tolls on the route from Chur to Passo del San Bernardino?**
Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €40 (Switzerland, Vignette). Estimate with typical rates; motorhomes pay more, and vehicles over 3.5 t often pay by distance.