# Fir forest, cave lakes and the home of Odysseus – by camper across Kefalonia and Ithaca

> From the ferry at Poros past the Roman mosaic of Skala, Argostoli and the Paliki peninsula to the hairpins of Myrtos, on to Assos and Fiskardo, up into the…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-505-greece-kefalonia-ithaca/

**At a glance:** 7-day road trip of about 264 km (164 mi) with 14 stops, from Kyllini to Agia Efimia. About 3 h 39 min of driving in total. Best time to go: April–May and October. Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €10 (Greece). From the ferry at Poros past the Roman mosaic of Skala, Argostoli and the Paliki peninsula to the hairpins of Myrtos, on to Assos and Fiskardo, up into the fir forest of Ainos and across to Ithaca: around 400 kilometres of island driving in seven stages, with ferry timetables and parking setting the pace.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | approx. 264 km (164 mi) |
| Driving | 3 h 39 min |
| Suggested days | 7 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Kyllini → Agia Efimia |
| Countries | Greece |
| Best time to go | April–May and October |
| Tolls and vignettes | ≈ €10 |
| Updated | October 1, 2026 |

[Download GPX file](https://camping-spirit.com/gpx/rf-505-greece-kefalonia-ithaca.gpx)

Practical guides for this route: [Balkans and Greece by motorhome: vignette, tolls, borders, ferries and October](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/eu-balkans-greece-by-motorhome/)

*From the ferry at Poros past the Roman mosaic of Skala, Argostoli and the Paliki peninsula to the hairpins of Myrtos, on to Assos and Fiskardo, up into the fir forest of Ainos and across to Ithaca: around 400 kilometres of island driving in seven stages, with ferry timetables and parking setting the pace.*

## The spirit of the route

Kefalonia is an island of limestone and light. Rolling off the ramp at Poros, you first face gorges and olive terraces, then the ridge of Ainos, whose dark firs simply refuse to fit the picture of an Ionian island. The west coast drops into the sea in white walls, and below lies Myrtos like a strip of chalk against turquoise water. In the mornings, loggerhead turtles surface between the fishing boats in Argostoli harbour; in Fiskardo the Venetian houses still stand that survived the 1953 earthquake, while almost every other village had to be rebuilt. From the sliding door you see Ithaca as a blue ridge above the strait – the island of Odysseus, small, steep and quiet. This route thrives on short stages, early starts ahead of the coaches and the patience to take tight hairpins in two goes if need be.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Poros (ferry from Kyllini) to Argostoli via Skala (approx. 55 km)

- **The drive:** You reach the island from the mainland via the port of Kyllini in the Peloponnese: the ferry to Poros in the south-east of Kefalonia takes around an hour and a half and runs all year, several times a day in summer. A direct Kyllini–Argostoli service is not offered every year and takes considerably longer – Poros is the reliable port. If you want to explore the Peloponnese itself, you will find the route in the CampingSpirit travel guide to the Peloponnese round trip. From Poros, take the narrow coast road round the cape to Skala, then via Katelios, Markopoulo and Lourdata west along the southern flank of Ainos and via Peratata to Argostoli. Winding but paved throughout; a good hour and a half of pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Roman villa of Skala: floor mosaics from the 3rd century AD, including the depiction of “Envy” being torn apart by wild animals, under a protective roof on the edge of the village.
  - Mycenaean tholos tomb of Tzanata a few kilometres above Poros.
  - Castle of Agios Georgios above Peratata, the former island capital fortified by the Venetians, with views across the Livatho plain to Argostoli.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Argostoli lies around 2 km north of town by the Agioi Theodoroi lighthouse at the northern tip of the Lassi peninsula, right by the sea, and is the only site in the west of the island. According to camping portals it is open roughly from mid-May to the end of September and has pitches with electricity, a restaurant, snack bar and minimarket; a service point for motorhomes is not confirmed. As the information is not always up to date, call ahead. If the site is closed, carry on to Camping Karavomilos Beach near Sami (around 25 km) and do Argostoli and the Paliki from there as a day trip. If you need to spend the night before the crossing on the mainland: near Kyllini and further south near Glyfa there are several beach campsites, such as Fournia Beach close to the port.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Wild camping is prohibited in Greece (Law 5170/2025, €300 per person); anything outside the vehicle’s footprint counts as camping – awning, table, chairs, barbecue, levelling jacks, washing line. Parking correctly and staying in the vehicle is permitted under the road traffic code, but local bans take precedence. The sandy beaches between Skala and Lourdata are nesting sites of the loggerhead turtle: no vehicles, no lights and no tents on the beach at night.
- **Insider tip for campers:** When booking the ferry, give your vehicle’s exact length and height including any rear rack – the ramps and decks of the Ionian island ferries are smaller than those of the Adriatic ferries, and at Poros you reverse on or turn in tight spaces. Fill up with fuel and gas on the mainland before the crossing. In Poros, don’t drive into the harbour lanes; take the exit road straight away.

### Stage 2: Argostoli to Argostoli (Lassi and Paliki peninsula) (approx. 70 km)

- **The drive:** In the morning Argostoli and the Lassi peninsula, then the small ferry from the town quay across the bay to Lixouri (around 20–30 minutes, roughly every half hour on weekdays in summer, less often on Sundays and out of season; vehicles are carried for a surcharge). On the Paliki, head south to Xi Beach, along hill roads to Kipoureon Monastery on the west coast and up to Petani; back via Zola and Kourouklata on the road round the Gulf of Argostoli. Partly narrow and steep, especially the descent to Petani. About two hours of driving plus the crossing.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - De Bosset Bridge: the stone bridge of 1813 across the Koutavos lagoon, on foot from the centre; from the quay by the fish market you can watch loggerhead turtles in the harbour water in the mornings – don’t feed them, keep your distance.
  - Katavothres on the Lassi peninsula: seawater disappears here into sinkholes and, as a dye test showed in 1963, re-emerges on the other side of the island near Sami.
  - Xi Beach with red sand and white clay cliffs, plus Kipoureon Monastery on the clifftop and Petani Beach, a pebble cove below steep slopes.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Second night at Camping Argostoli (outside its season at Camping Karavomilos Beach near Sami). The Paliki has no campsite; the loop is best done as a day trip.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** On the Paliki there are beach car parks at Xi and Petani that motorhomes can use during the day; overnighting in the vehicle there is only permitted without any camping behaviour, and local prohibition signs take precedence. In the fire season, when the wildfire risk is high, avoid barbecues and open fires – this applies everywhere on the islands.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The Lixouri ferry is short and small: with a long vehicle, ask at the quay beforehand whether there is enough room; the land route round the gulf is around 35 km and straightforward. In Argostoli, give the old-town lanes around the Lithostroto a wide berth – the car parks along the harbour quay by the lagoon are the better choice. Supermarkets on the edge of town are good for a big shop before heading north.

### Stage 3: Argostoli to Sami via Myrtos, Assos and Fiskardo (approx. 105 km)

- **The drive:** Take the northern road via Davgata and Agkonas high above the west coast – the road is blasted into the slope, with a risk of rockfall and crash barriers that are not continuous. At Divarata, turn off to Myrtos Beach, continue north with a short detour down to Assos, then on to Fiskardo at the northern tip. Back via Divarata and the hairpins down to Agia Efimia, then along the east coast to Sami. Around three hours of pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Myrtos: white limestone pebbles and turquoise water below steep limestone slopes; the viewpoint on the main road above is worth it even if you don’t drive down.
  - Assos: the village on the narrow isthmus and the Venetian fortress on the peninsula from the late 16th century, reached on foot along a zigzag path.
  - Fiskardo: Venetian houses from the 18th and 19th centuries that largely survived the 1953 earthquake, plus the ruins of an early Christian church and the lighthouse at the harbour entrance.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Karavomilos Beach, around 1 km north-west of Sami, right by the sea: a good 250 pitches with 16 A electricity, around 50 of them hardstanding, motorhome service point, chemical toilet disposal, three sanitary blocks, restaurant, minimarket and pool. Open roughly from April to mid-October. The site works well as a base for the remaining stages.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** There is no campsite in the north. In Assos and Fiskardo parking is scarce and full during the day – staying overnight there is unrealistic. Overnighting is not intended at the Myrtos car park down by the beach; the camping ban is enforced at the well-known beaches.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Only drive down to Myrtos in a motorhome early in the morning: the short serpentine road down from Divarata has tight, blind hairpins with a steep gradient, and although the car park at the bottom is a decent size, it is full by mid-morning in summer – after that, cars park on the slope and turning becomes a problem for large vehicles. Go downhill in first or second gear. A narrow, steep spur road leads to Assos, with turning space only in the village; leave large vehicles up on the slope and walk. In Fiskardo, stop at the large car park at the entrance to the village.

### Stage 4: Sami to Sami via Ainos National Park and Omala (approx. 75 km)

- **The drive:** From Sami, climb the cross-island road towards Argostoli and near the pass follow the signs into Ainos National Park: a narrow, paved mountain road winds up through the fir forest to a car park below the summit of Megas Soros (1,628 m), with few passing places and wind and fog at the top; the summit itself is another 20–30 minutes on foot. Back to the cross-island road and down into the high valley of Omala to Agios Gerasimos Monastery and the Robola winery, then back along the cross-island road to Sami. A good two hours of driving, a full day with the hike.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Greek fir (Abies cephalonica): the national park on the Ainos massif protects the forest of this endemic fir species, with hiking trails from the car parks on the summit ridge.
  - Wild horses of Ainos: the small, semi-wild horses often stand in clearings and at watering places on the ridge – keep your distance, don’t feed them.
  - Agios Gerasimos Monastery in Omala with the grotto of the island’s patron saint beneath the old church, and next door the winery of the Robola cooperative with tastings of the white Robola.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Second night at Camping Karavomilos Beach.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Overnighting and camping are prohibited in the national park, as is any open fire; in the fire season the park may be closed when the wildfire risk is high – check beforehand with the park administration or on the fire risk map. Park only in the designated areas.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The summit road is hard work for large motorhomes: when you meet oncoming traffic, someone often has to reverse. With long vehicles, drive only as far as the first car parks in the forest and hike from there. At the monastery, make sure shoulders and knees are covered; on the saint’s major feast days Omala is full of pilgrims and practically impossible to drive to.

### Stage 5: Sami to Sami (Melissani, Drogarati, Antisamos) (approx. 20 km)

- **The drive:** Short hops around Sami: to the Melissani cave lake between Sami and Karavomilos, to the Drogarati stalactite cave on the road towards Argostoli and over a hill with tight hairpins down to the bay of Antisamos. Barely an hour of driving in total.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Melissani: rowing boats cross the underground lake, whose roof has collapsed; around midday the sunlight falls vertically and makes the water glow. Some of the water comes from the Katavothres near Argostoli.
  - Drogarati: a large stalactite cave with a wide chamber in which concerts are occasionally held because of the acoustics.
  - Antisamos: a pebble bay in a green hollow, a filming location for “Captain Corelli’s Mandolin”; from the pass above there is a view across the strait to Ithaca.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Third night at Camping Karavomilos Beach – from here you can head for Ithaca the next morning without any rush.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** There is a beach car park at Antisamos; overnighting is not intended there. In Sami, motorhomes park in the areas by the harbour where the ferries depart – park only, don’t camp.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The caves open seasonally; check opening times beforehand. For Melissani choose midday, even though the coaches are there then; Drogarati, by contrast, is pleasantly empty early in the morning. The road to Antisamos is narrow and winding – with large vehicles drive it in the morning before the beach traffic starts. In Sami, stock up on diesel, food and water before Ithaca.

### Stage 6: Sami (ferry) to Vathy (Ithaca) (approx. 15 km)

- **The drive:** Ferry from Sami to Ithaca, all year and mostly to Pisaetos on the west coast, with some sailings to Vathy; the crossing to Pisaetos takes around half an hour, and there are considerably more departures in summer than in winter. From Pisaetos, a steep, winding mountain road climbs to the Aetos isthmus and descends to the bay of Vathy, a good 10 km. A short drive, but the harbour exit at Pisaetos is steep.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Vathy: the main town in a deeply indented natural bay with the Lazaretto islet in the middle and neoclassical houses rebuilt after 1953.
  - Dexa Bay north of Vathy, by tradition the beach where the Phaeacians set Odysseus ashore; above it the Cave of the Nymphs, which is usually not accessible.
  - Hike to the Arethusa Spring and the Korax rock south of Vathy, where according to Homer the swineherd Eumaeus kept his herds – a good three hours there and back on foot, with little shade.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** There is no campsite and no service point on Ithaca. If you are not going as a day trip from Sami, spend the night in the correctly parked vehicle – near Vathy, for example, in the areas on the edge of town – without any camping behaviour. Alternatively, leave the camper in Sami and cross as a foot passenger, renting a scooter on the island.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The camping ban applies on Ithaca without exception; small beaches such as Gidaki (only on foot or by boat) or Filiatro have hardly any room for motorhomes anyway. Observe local parking bans in Vathy harbour – in summer many sailing boats moor there, and the quay is needed for deliveries.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Ithaca has only a few filling stations and limited water supplies: cross with a full tank, full fresh water and an empty cassette. When booking your ticket, give the exact length – the small island ferries have little room for long vehicles; for long motorhomes and car-caravan combinations, ask the port agent beforehand. Plan your return in good time – the last sailing often leaves in the afternoon.

### Stage 7: Vathy to Agia Efimia via Stavros, Kioni and ferry (approx. 65 km)

- **The drive:** From Vathy head north on the west coast road near Lefki, high above the strait, to Stavros, then on to Frikes and Kioni; back via the mountain village of Anogi and Kathara Monastery on the Neritos ridge. Then to Pisaetos, the ferry to Sami and the coast road past Lake Karavomilos to Agia Efimia. Narrow island roads, with pinch points in Stavros and steep descents to Frikes and Kioni. A good two hours of driving plus the crossing.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Stavros: the excavations at the so-called “School of Homer” near Agios Athanasios, where the University of Ioannina has uncovered Mycenaean finds, and the small Archaeological Museum of Stavros with finds from nearby Pelikata hill.
  - Kioni: a harbour in a narrow bay with three old windmills on the headland; parts of the village survived the 1953 earthquake.
  - Kathara Monastery on Neritos with views across the bay of Vathy to Kefalonia, plus the church in Anogi with Byzantine frescoes.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Back on Kefalonia, Camping Karavomilos Beach lies on the route between Sami and Agia Efimia. For the return journey the site is the best base: from Sami to the ferry port of Poros it is around 35–40 km.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Agia Efimia, motorhomes park on the edge of the village, not round the tight harbour. Overnighting in the vehicle without camping behaviour is legally possible, but in summer hardly practical given the lack of space.
- **Insider tip for campers:** In Kioni and Frikes, leave large vehicles above the village: the harbour roads end in dead ends with no turning space. If you don’t want to return via Pisaetos, there are at times in season connections from Frikes to the north of Kefalonia – check locally whether and when vehicles are carried. For a second visit to Myrtos without the hairpins in your camper, ask about a taxi or the scheduled bus.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- Wild camping is prohibited in Greece (Law 5170/2025); the fine is €300 per person. Anything that extends beyond the vehicle’s footprint counts as camping: awning, table, chairs, barbecue, extended levelling jacks, washing line.
- Parking is governed by Road Traffic Code 5209/2025 (Art. 38), clarified by a police circular from 2026: in built-up areas, motorhomes up to 7.5 m may park without a time limit, longer motorhomes and caravans for no more than 24 hours at a time; outside built-up areas, in designated areas or on the right-hand edge of the road without a time limit, provided no ban applies. According to the police, staying in a correctly parked vehicle, including at night, is not an offence. Local bans take precedence.
- Kefalonia has only two campsites – near Argostoli and near Sami – and Ithaca none. Both are seasonal: Argostoli, according to portals, roughly mid-May to the end of September, Karavomilos roughly April to mid-October; out of season, the only options are parking under road traffic law and accommodation.
- The sandy beaches in the south of Kefalonia are nesting sites of the loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta): no vehicles, no lights and no tents on these beaches at night, and don’t step on nests. In Ainos National Park, overnighting and fires are prohibited; in the fire season, forests may be closed when the risk is high.
- Useful apps: park4night and Campercontact with user reports on parking spots and service points; plus the daily fire risk map of the Greek civil protection agency.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Camping Karavomilos Beach near Sami has a motorhome service point; Camping Argostoli is more basically equipped. There is no service point on Ithaca – cross with an empty cassette and a full fresh-water tank.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at a service point; illegal dumping on beaches and harbour car parks is a main source of complaints and new bans.
- Water is scarce on both islands in summer. Tap water is chlorinated in many places or not designated as drinking water; buy drinking water in large bottles at the supermarket and use tank water sparingly. On Ithaca, part of the supply comes from cisterns and desalination.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped. Autogas (LPG, “υγραέριο”) is easier to find on the mainland, for example around Patras, than on the islands – fill refillable cylinders before the crossing and bring an adapter set.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits for motorhomes up to 3.5 t: in built-up areas generally 30 km/h, 50 km/h on multi-lane or physically separated main roads; outside built-up areas 90 km/h. Lower limits apply to vehicles over 3.5 t and car-caravan combinations. There are no motorways on the islands; 30–60 km/h is realistic.
- There are no tolls on Kefalonia and Ithaca. On the mainland, two-axle vehicles over 2.20 m high pay class 3, a good twice the car rate; the Patras–Pyrgos motorway towards Kyllini is open throughout, and the toll stations there are unstaffed – have a card ready.
- Ferries: give the exact length and height including rear rack, roof box and trailer when booking; the Ionian island ferries, and especially the services to Ithaca and Lixouri, have small decks. Turn off gas cylinders during the crossing and manoeuvre as directed by the deck crew.
- Blood alcohol limit 0.5, 0.2 for new drivers and professional drivers; phone use at the wheel only hands-free. If a load projects beyond the rear, clearly visible marking is required – the red-and-white warning board is the safe choice.
- Island roads: scheduled buses and delivery vans effectively have priority at pinch points. Sound your horn before blind hairpins, use passing bays and give way to vehicles driving uphill; after rain the limestone roads are slippery, and rockfall is to be expected on the west coast.
- Earthquakes: the Ionian Islands lie in one of Europe’s most active earthquake zones. The earthquake of August 1953 destroyed almost every settlement on Kefalonia and Ithaca, which is why most houses are new; in 2014 a series of earthquakes hit the Paliki. Take warnings about rockfall and closed paths seriously.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Collapsible water containers (2 × 10 l) – on Ithaca there is no service point and hardly any opportunity to fill up with fresh water.
- Levelling ramps, steps 2–3, for the sloping spots at harbours and beach car parks – used only on campsites, not when parking elsewhere.
- A pair of walkie-talkies or a reversing camera for the person guiding you: at the ferry ramps in Pisaetos and Poros and on the hairpins of Myrtos and Assos you will often be reversing.
- Hiking boots with firm soles for the Ainos ridge, the path to the fortress of Assos and the stony trail to the Arethusa Spring.
- Binoculars for the wild horses on Ainos and the turtles in Argostoli harbour – both are best seen from a distance.
- Water shoes for the coarse limestone pebbles at Myrtos, Antisamos and Petani.

_As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Sources

- [camping.info – Camping Argostoli (Fanari, Saison 15.5.–30.9., Ausstattung)](https://camping.info/en/campsite/camping-argostoli)
- [Alan Rogers – Camping Karavomilos Beach (Saison, Stellplätze, Ausstattung)](https://alanrogers.com/campsite/camping-karavomilos-beach-greek-islands)
- [Eurocampings (ACSI) – Camping Karavomilos Beach, Sami](https://www.eurocampings.co.uk/greece/ionian-islands/sami/camping-karavomilos-beach-100899)
- [Ferryscanner – Fähren Kyllini–Kefalonia (Poros, Levante Ferries)](https://ferryscanner.com/en/ferry-routes/ferry-kyllini-kefalonia-all-ports)
- [Ferryscanner – Fähren Sami–Ithaka (Pisaetos, Ithaki)](https://ferryscanner.com/en/ferry-routes/ferry-sami-kefalonia-ithaca-all-ports)
- [Greeka – Lokale Fähre Argostoli–Lixouri](https://greeka.com/ionian/kefalonia/transportations/water-taxis)
- [Fiscardo.com – Myrtos Beach (Zufahrt, Parkplatz)](https://fiscardo.com/beaches/myrtos-beach/)
- [Airial – Mount Ainos National Park (Zufahrt, Sperrungen)](https://airial.travel/attractions/greece/mount-ainos-national-park-kefalonia-greece-_yrm_D_h)

## Which stops are on the route from Kyllini to Agia Efimia?

1. **Kyllini** (Greece)
2. **Poros** (Greece)
3. **Skala** (Greece)
4. **Argostoli** (Greece)
5. **Lixouri** (Greece)
6. **Myrtos** (Greece)
7. **Assos** (Greece)
8. **Fiskardo** (Fiskardo, Greece): A harbour village at Kefalonia's northern tip that escaped the 1953 earthquake and kept its old architecture, with pebble coves along a rocky coast. Ferries run to Frikes on Ithaca and to Lefkada, and Sami lies 24 km to the south.
9. **Ainos** (Greece)
10. **Sami** (Greece)
11. **Vathy** (Greece)
12. **Stavros** (Greece)
13. **Kioni** (Greece)
14. **Agia Efimia** (Greece)

## When is the best time for the route from Kyllini to Agia Efimia?

The most pleasant months are usually April–May and October. Still fine, with some compromises, in March, June, September and November. Hot in July–August. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## What should you know before driving the route from Kyllini to Agia Efimia?

Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €10 (Greece).

- **Greece: Motorway tolls.** Motorway limit for cars: 130 km/h.
- **Assos → Fiskardo.** Ferry crossing needed
- **Fiskardo → Ainos.** Ferry crossing needed

## FAQs

**How long is Fir forest, cave lakes and the home of Odysseus – by camper across Kefalonia and Ithaca?**
7-day road trip of about 264 km (164 mi) with 14 stops, from Kyllini to Agia Efimia. About 3 h 39 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Fir forest, cave lakes and the home of Odysseus – by camper across Kefalonia and Ithaca?**
We suggest 7 days: about 3 h 39 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Fir forest, cave lakes and the home of Odysseus – by camper across Kefalonia and Ithaca start and end?**
It starts in Kyllini and ends in Agia Efimia.

**Which countries does Fir forest, cave lakes and the home of Odysseus – by camper across Kefalonia and Ithaca pass through?**
Greece.

**Where can you camp along Fir forest, cave lakes and the home of Odysseus – by camper across Kefalonia and Ithaca?**
OpenStreetMap lists 9 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Camping Karavomilos Beach, Camping Melissa and Ionion Beach.

**How much are the tolls on the route from Kyllini to Agia Efimia?**
Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €10 (Greece). Estimate with typical rates; motorhomes pay more, and vehicles over 3.5 t often pay by distance.