# Lakes, cliffs and kites – by camper through East Holstein to Fehmarn

> From Lübeck's old town via the resorts of Lübeck Bay, the lakes of Holstein Switzerland and Hohwacht Bay to Heiligenhafen and Fehmarn and back to Grömitz…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-482-holstein-switzerland-fehmarn/

**At a glance:** 8-day road trip of about 221 km (137 mi) with 14 stops, from Lübeck to Grömitz. About 3 h 03 min of driving in total. Best time to go: June–August. No motorway tolls or vignettes expected for a car. From Lübeck's old town via the resorts of Lübeck Bay, the lakes of Holstein Switzerland and Hohwacht Bay to Heiligenhafen and Fehmarn and back to Grömitz: around 350 kilometres on which you spend more time on the shore than at the wheel.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | approx. 221 km (137 mi) |
| Driving | 3 h 03 min |
| Suggested days | 8 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Lübeck → Grömitz |
| Countries | Germany |
| Best time to go | June–August |
| Tolls and vignettes | None expected |
| Updated | October 1, 2026 |

[Download GPX file](https://camping-spirit.com/gpx/rf-482-holstein-switzerland-fehmarn.gpx)

Practical guides for this route: [Germany by motorhome: low-emission zones, no car toll, speed limits and where to sleep](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/eu-germany-by-motorhome/)

*From Lübeck's old town via the resorts of Lübeck Bay, the lakes of Holstein Switzerland and Hohwacht Bay to Heiligenhafen and Fehmarn and back to Grömitz: around 350 kilometres on which you spend more time on the shore than at the wheel.*

## The spirit of the route

East Holstein is a land of short distances and wide views. In the morning you are still standing among brick gables in Lübeck; by midday Lübeck Bay smells of sun cream, smoked fish and seaweed. Behind it begins a landscape shaped by the Ice Age: moraine hills, beech woods, hedgerow banks (Knicks) and dozens of lakes with morning mist lying on them. From the sliding door you see great crested grebes on Great Plön Lake, rapeseed fields to the horizon and, on Hohwacht Bay, cliffs with fallen beeches on the beach. The further north-east you go, the flatter and windier it gets. On Fehmarn the wind sets the day: kites above the Grüner Brink, grasses bending on the dyke, lighthouses in the fields. This route lives from the change between lakeshore and Baltic beach – and from evenings when the sun sinks over the water.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Lübeck to Timmendorfer Strand (approx. 30 km)

- **The drive:** From Lübeck on the B75 towards Travemünde, depending on your starting point through the tolled Herrentunnel or toll-free via Bad Schwartau and Ratekau. From Travemünde via Brodten to Niendorf and Timmendorfer Strand: flat country roads, 30 km/h zones on the coast, roundabouts and heavy beach traffic in summer. A good hour of pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Lübeck's old town island (UNESCO World Heritage Site) with the Holstentor – for a short walk before you set off; the CampingSpirit travel guide to the Baltic coast from Lübeck to Usedom covers the city in detail.
  - Brodtener Steilufer between Travemünde and Niendorf: a hiking trail along the cliff edge up to around 20 m above the Baltic Sea, with views across Lübeck Bay to the Mecklenburg coast. The cliff is constantly crumbling – take the barriers seriously.
  - Niendorf fishing harbour with cutters and fish sales; in the evening a lovely view across the bay from the pier.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Travemünde there are municipal motorhome pitches, for example at the fishing harbour (with water and waste disposal) and at Kowitzberg; Campingplatz Ivendorf on the edge of town is a campsite with sanitary facilities and electricity. In Niendorf the pitch at the Vogelpark Timmendorfer Strand offers a quieter alternative. In the summer holidays arrive early; the coastal pitches fill up quickly.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Wild camping is practically impossible on Lübeck Bay: the beach car parks almost all carry overnight bans for motorhomes, and the state nature conservation act prohibits setting up motorhomes outside approved sites in the open countryside. The single overnight stop to restore fitness to drive, which is tolerated in Germany, only applies where no signs prohibit it – rare on the coast.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Do not steer the camper onto Lübeck's old town island: narrow lanes, cobblestones, hardly any parking for long vehicles. Many resorts charge a visitor's tax (Kurabgabe) even for day visitors, often via a machine or app at the beach entrance; if you spend the night on a motorhome pitch or campsite, you usually get a guest card that is valid on the beach.

### Stage 2: Timmendorfer Strand to Eutin (approx. 45 km)

- **The drive:** Along the coast road via Scharbeutz and Haffkrug to Sierksdorf and Neustadt in Holstein, then inland on the B76 through hilly hedgerow country to Eutin. On the coast many village through-roads, traffic lights and zebra crossings; in the hinterland quiet, well-built roads. Around 1.5 hours without breaks.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Scharbeutz beach promenade and pier – a good walk in the morning, before the beach chairs are taken.
  - Cliffs near Sierksdorf with a shoreline path and a view back across Lübeck Bay.
  - Neustadt in Holstein: the neoclassical Pagodenspeicher granary at the harbour, the Kremper Tor gate and the view across Neustadt Bay.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Reisemobilpark Eutiner See on the edge of the old town, with electricity and water and waste disposal, a few minutes' walk from the palace. With sanitary facilities and right on the water, Naturpark-Camping Prinzenholz lies on the Großer Eutiner See. On the coast, the WoMo-Stellplatz Sierksdorf with electricity and disposal is an alternative if you want to stay by the sea.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** On the coast the same applies as the day before: overnight bans on beach car parks. In the Holstein Switzerland Nature Park, overnighting at hiking car parks and lake access points is not provided for; the pitch in Eutin is the legal and usually inexpensive solution.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The coast road between Timmendorfer Strand and Neustadt is slow around midday in July and August. Drive early or take the A1 to the Eutin exit for the onward journey. Near Neustadt and Pelzerhaken there are several campsites with disposal facilities if you need to empty your cassette and grey water on the way.

### Stage 3: Eutin to Plön (approx. 25 km)

- **The drive:** From Eutin via Sielbeck along the Kellersee to Bad Malente-Gremsmühlen and on along the B76 to Plön. Winding roads, partly lined with avenue trees, through beech woods and between the lakes, narrow in the Kellersee area. Pure driving time under an hour – the day belongs to the water.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Eutin Palace with its palace garden on the Großer Eutiner See; Eutin is the birthplace of Carl Maria von Weber.
  - Ukleisee near Sielbeck: a small lake sunk deep into the beech woods, with a circular path and the little hunting lodge (Jagdschlösschen) on the shore.
  - Five Lakes Trip (Fünf-Seen-Fahrt) from Malente-Gremsmühlen: excursion boats across the Dieksee, Langensee, Behler See, Höftsee and Edebergsee to the Fegetasche near Plön – check timetable and season in advance.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Plön, Naturcamping Spitzenort and the neighbouring Wohnmobilhafen Spitzenort lie right on Great Plön Lake, with electricity, water and waste disposal and sanitary facilities (at the campsite). On the south shore of the lake, for example near Bosau and Dersau, there are further campsites. In Malente, the campsite “An der Schwentine” is in the village.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The lakeshores of Holstein Switzerland are largely nature reserves; overnighting at bathing spots or hiking car parks is not allowed. In Malente the Womo-Stop in Gremsmühlen is a simple motorhome pitch near the boat landing – check the current overnight rules on the signs on site.
- **Insider tip for campers:** For the Five Lakes Trip, park the camper in Malente-Gremsmühlen and make the outward and return journey by boat – that way you end up back at your vehicle. Plön's town centre is cramped and has steep lanes on the Schlossberg; for strolling it is better to walk from the pitch.

### Stage 4: Plön to Hohwacht (approx. 60 km)

- **The drive:** Back via Malente and on minor roads via Kasseedorf to Schönwalde am Bungsberg, up to the Bungsberg, then via Lütjenburg and Panker to Hohwacht Bay. Small, hilly country roads between hedgerows, partly without centre lines; oncoming traffic with farm machinery. Just under 1.5 hours of driving.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Bungsberg, at 168 m the highest point in Schleswig-Holstein, with the historic Elisabethturm (not open to the public) and the telecommunications tower, whose viewing platform has been closed at times – check in advance whether it is open. Even from the summit, in clear weather the view reaches over lakes and woods to the Baltic Sea.
  - Lütjenburg with its reconstructed medieval motte-and-bailey castle (Turmhügelburg) and the Bismarck Tower on the Vogelberg.
  - Hessenstein lookout tower near Panker, a short walk from the forest car park – on clear days a wide view over Hohwacht Bay and the Baltic Sea.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Hohwacht, the Wohnmobilstellplatz Alt-Hohwacht lies near the cliffs, with electricity and water and waste disposal. On Sehlendorfer Strand east of Hohwacht, several campsites line up directly behind the dyke, for example Camping Schöning, Camping Platen and Camping Jipp, plus a motorhome pitch at Sehlendorfer Strand. Check length limits and season for each site.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The Sehlendorfer Binnensee and large parts of the coast between Hohwacht and Behrensdorf are a nature reserve; parking only in designated areas, overnighting outside motorhome pitches and campsites not allowed. Checks by the municipality are usual in season.
- **Insider tip for campers:** West of Hohwacht lies the Todendorf military training area, from which live firing takes place out to sea: the sea area of Hohwacht Bay is then a warning area, and signal stations on the coast indicate firing activity. Do not enter military ground or marked restricted areas, heed warning signs and signals – if you paddle or sail, find out about firing times beforehand. The Bungsberg is worthwhile even in rain; the access road is narrow, so use the lower car park for large vehicles.

### Stage 5: Hohwacht to Heiligenhafen (approx. 40 km)

- **The drive:** Via Lütjenburg onto the B202 to Oldenburg in Holstein and on by country road or the A1 to Heiligenhafen; alternatively from Hohwacht on small roads via Kaköhl and Gremersdorf. Flat to rolling farmland, lots of wind, little traffic outside the holidays. Under an hour.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Graswarder: a spit off Heiligenhafen, a nature reserve with seabird breeding colonies, an observation tower and a NABU information centre; the historic seaside villas stand along the approach.
  - Erlebnis-Seebrücke pier and Binnensee promenade in Heiligenhafen, in the evening with a view of Fehmarn and the bridge.
  - The “Hohes Ufer” cliffs west of town, with a hiking trail above the beach.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Reisemobilstellplatz Heiligenhafen on the Binnensee, near the harbour and pier, with electricity, water and waste disposal and sanitary facilities – one of the larger motorhome pitches on this coast, yet still full early in season. You will find campsites west of town on the cliffs and towards Großenbrode, where there is also the Wohnmobilhafen at the water sports centre.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The Graswarder is strictly protected: access only on the marked paths, dogs only on a lead and only where they are permitted, no drones. Overnighting outside the motorhome pitches is not permitted in Heiligenhafen, and the harbour and beach car parks are signposted accordingly.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Between Oldenburg and Heiligenhafen lies the Putlos military training area, also with live firing out to sea; as at Todendorf, watch out for signal stations and warning signs. In Heiligenhafen's fishing harbour, cutters and smokehouses sell fresh fish – cheaper than in the restaurants on the promenade.

### Stage 6: Heiligenhafen to Burg auf Fehmarn (approx. 45 km)

- **The drive:** On the B207/E47 across the Fehmarn Sound Bridge onto the island, then on minor roads via Avendorf and Lemkenhafen to the west coast at Wallnau and Flügge and across the island to Burg. Flat on Fehmarn, narrow island roads between fields, strong crosswinds on open stretches. A good hour.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Fehmarn Sound Bridge: the network arch bridge from the 1960s, nicknamed the “coat hanger” because of its shape – photo spot from the shore at Strukkamphuk or Großenbrode.
  - NABU Wallnau Waterfowl Reserve on the west coast, with observation hides by ponds and lagoons; admission charge, seasonal opening – check times in advance.
  - Flügge Lighthouse at the south-western tip, open for climbing in season, with a view across the sound and the Orther Reede roadstead.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Wohnmobilpark Wulfener Hals on the Burger Binnensee near Burg, with electricity, water and waste disposal and the sanitary facilities of the large campsite next door; on the west coast, Strandcamping Wallnau lies right behind the dyke. On the south beach at Burgtiefe, Camping Südstrand offers its own motorhome pitches. Fehmarn has more than a dozen campsites, but still book ahead in the holidays.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Fehmarn has significantly restricted overnighting in municipal car parks: the former signs that allowed motorhomes a one-off 24 hours, for example in Burgstaaken and Burgtiefe, have been removed, and the public order authorities carry out checks. Wild camping costs a fine of around €100. Use only signposted motorhome pitches – check car park information in apps such as park4night for being up to date beforehand.
- **Insider tip for campers:** In storms the Fehmarn Sound Bridge is usually closed to wind-sensitive vehicles – empty lorries, vehicles with trailers and motorhomes too. There is no alternative route; when a storm warning is issued, follow the traffic radio and postpone the crossing if necessary. In the long term a tunnel under the Fehmarn Sound is to carry road and rail; the listed bridge is to be preserved. Burg has supermarkets and petrol stations; elsewhere on the island the choice is thin.

### Stage 7: Burg auf Fehmarn to Burg auf Fehmarn (island loop) (approx. 50 km)

- **The drive:** Island loop clockwise: from Burg north via Bannesdorf to the Grüner Brink, along the north coast towards Puttgarden, then via Marienleuchte to the east coast at Staberhuk and back to Burg via Katharinenhof. Narrow roads and farm tracks; some spur roads to the beaches end at car parks with turning space – not every one is suitable for long vehicles. A day with stops.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Grüner Brink on the north coast: a nature reserve behind the beach and one of the best-known kite and windsurf spots on the Baltic, full of sails in a north wind.
  - Marienleuchte and Staberhuk lighthouses on the east coast, with cliffs and pebble beaches between them and views of the Fehmarn Belt and the ferries.
  - Niobe Memorial near Gammendorf on the north coast, commemorating the sail training ship that sank off Fehmarn in 1932.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Second night at the same site near Burg – the island is small enough for a day loop. If you want to move to the north coast: Belt-Camping-Fehmarn, Camping am Niobe and the Ahoi-Camp lie near the kite spots, some with their own motorhome pitches. On the east coast, Camping Katharinenhof lies near Staberhuk.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The car parks at the kite beaches are day car parks; overnighting there is not permitted and is checked. At the Grüner Brink and in Wallnau nature reserve law applies: do not walk on dunes and salt marshes, no drones.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Kitesurfing on Fehmarn is only allowed in designated zones, with restrictions in nature reserves and bathing zones; kite schools on the island know the current areas for each wind direction. Around Puttgarden, construction work is under way on the Fehmarn Belt tunnel to Denmark: expect construction traffic, diversions and closed paths. The ferry to Rødby still runs if you want to continue to Denmark.

### Stage 8: Burg auf Fehmarn to Grömitz (approx. 55 km)

- **The drive:** Back across the Fehmarn Sound Bridge to the mainland, on the A1 or the country road to Oldenburg in Holstein and on via Dahme or directly via Cismar to Grömitz. Mostly flat and well built, slower on the coast in summer. A good hour.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Oldenburger Wallmuseum at the Starigard rampart: a reconstructed Slavic settlement with houses, workshops and boats, seasonal opening.
  - Cismar Abbey between Grömitz and Kellenhusen, a former Benedictine monastery built of brick, with a monastery garden.
  - Grömitz pier with the diving gondola at its end (seasonal operating times) and the long beach promenade for a final stretch by the sea.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Grömitz has several motorhome pitches, for example the Wohnmobilpark “Achtern Diek” east of the centre, as well as several campsites towards Lenste, including Camping Hohe Leuchte and Camping Mare. In Oldenburg there are motorhome pitches near the Wallmuseum – check terms on site.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Grömitz and Kellenhusen too, the beach car parks are closed to overnight stays; the municipality refers you to the motorhome pitches. For a last night by the sea, these are the only legal choice.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Like the other resorts, Grömitz charges a visitor's tax; on motorhome pitches it is usually included in the pitch fee. From Grömitz it is only a good 40 minutes back to Lübeck via the A1. For the return journey, fill up in Oldenburg or Lensahn – usually cheaper than on the motorway.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- Schleswig-Holstein's nature conservation act prohibits camping and setting up caravans and motorhomes outside approved sites in the open countryside; overnighting on the beach and in dunes is out of the question. In forests, the state forest act additionally prohibits parking vehicles away from car parks.
- Nationwide, a single overnight stop to restore fitness to drive is usually tolerated in public car parks – but on the East Holstein coast the municipalities rule this out almost everywhere by signage. Camping behaviour such as an awning, chairs or a table turns parking into camping in any case.
- Fehmarn is stepping up checks and has abolished former 24-hour rules for motorhomes in municipal car parks; wild camping costs a fine of around €100. In nature reserves such as the Graswarder, the Grüner Brink or the Sehlendorfer Binnensee, higher penalties apply for violations.
- The network of motorhome pitches is dense: municipalities, harbours, farms and many campsites offer their own motorhome pitches. For searching, use park4night, Campercontact, the motoring clubs' pitch apps or a printed pitch guide – user information on car parks is often out of date because of the changed rules.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Almost every motorhome pitch on the coast and in Holstein Switzerland has a service station for water and waste; depending on the site you pay with coins, card or app; some stations are for site guests only.
- Empty cassettes and grey water only at stations – never into drains, lakes or on the beach. The lakes of Holstein Switzerland are partly drinking water protection areas and nature reserves.
- Tap water is drinking water; at disposal points watch out for separate taps and the label “Kein Trinkwasser” (not drinking water). Use your own hose rather than other people's.
- Gas: you can get grey exchange cylinders at petrol stations, DIY stores and many campsites. LPG pumps are found along the A1 and in larger towns; no adapter is needed for refillable tanks with a German connector.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 100 km/h outside built-up areas, on the motorway advisory speed 130 km/h; over 3.5 t up to 7.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on the motorway. Vehicles with trailers 80 km/h, with 100 km/h approval 100 km/h on the motorway. Many resorts have 30 km/h zones.
- Tolls: no vignette and no car toll; as far as we know, motorhomes are exempt from the HGV toll. The Herrentunnel in Lübeck is tolled, with rates by vehicle class. If you continue to Denmark, you pay for the Puttgarden–Rødby ferry according to vehicle length and height.
- As far as we know, there are no low-emission zones in Schleswig-Holstein; a green sticker is still useful for travelling on to other federal states.
- In storms the Fehmarn Sound Bridge is usually closed to wind-sensitive vehicles, including motorhomes and vehicles with trailers. Loads projecting more than 1 m beyond the rear must be marked; winter tyres are compulsory in icy and snowy conditions.
- Dogs: during the bathing season, usually from spring to the end of September depending on the municipality, dogs are banned from bathing beaches; municipalities designate their own dog beaches, and lead rules there differ from beach to beach. In nature reserves dogs must be on a lead; on dykes either a lead requirement or a dog ban applies.
- Alcohol: 0.5‰, 0.0 for novice drivers in their probationary period and under 21. Phones hands-free only; violations cost a fine and a point in the Flensburg register.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- A wind-stable awning with storm straps, or better none at all – on Fehmarn and Hohwacht Bay gusts come without warning, and awning damage is a classic.
- Binoculars: the Graswarder, Wallnau and the Sehlendorfer Binnensee are among the best birdwatching areas on the German Baltic coast.
- Bikes on the rear rack: the lakes of Holstein Switzerland, the promenades of Lübeck Bay and Fehmarn can be explored on level cycle paths without hunting for parking.
- A long dog lead and spare poo bags – lead requirements in protected areas and on dog beaches are checked.
- Water shoes for the stony beaches below the cliffs at Brodten, Hohwacht and on Fehmarn's east coast.
- Guest card to hand: the visitor's tax is checked at beach entrances, and some guest cards give discounts on boats and museums.

_As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Sources

- [promobil – Fehmarn verbietet Übernachtung auf beliebten Stellplätzen](https://www.promobil.de/reisetipp/fehmarn-stellplaetze-verbot-uebernachtung/)
- [stau.info – Fehmarnsundbrücke: Verkehrslage und Sperrungen](https://stau.info/bruecke/fehmarnsund)
- [Stadt Fehmarn – Audioguide Fehmarnsundbrücke (Transkription)](https://fehmarn.de/fileadmin/Mediendatenbank/Audioguide/pdf/Audioguide_Fehmarnsundbruecke_Transkription.pdf)
- [Yacht – Schießgebiet Hohwachter Bucht: Was Segler wissen müssen](https://www.yacht.de/reisen-chartern/deutschland/schiessgebiet-hohwachter-bucht-es-wird-scharf-geschossen-was-segler-wissen-muessen/)
- [Wikipedia – Bungsberg](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bungsberg)
- [Travelbook – Tauchgondeln an der deutschen Ostsee](https://www.travelbook.de/attraktionen/tauchgondeln-an-der-deutschen-ostsee)

## Which stops are on the route from Lübeck to Grömitz?

1. **Lübeck** (Germany)
2. **Travemünde** (Germany)
3. **Timmendorfer Strand** (Germany)
4. **Scharbeutz** (Germany)
5. **Neustadt in Holstein** (Germany)
6. **Eutin** (Germany)
7. **Malente** (Germany)
8. **Plön** (Germany)
9. **Bungsberg** (Germany)
10. **Hohwacht** (Germany)
11. **Heiligenhafen** (Germany)
12. **Burg auf Fehmarn** (Germany)
13. **Oldenburg in Holstein** (Germany)
14. **Grömitz** (Germany)

## When is the best time for the route from Lübeck to Grömitz?

The most pleasant months are usually June–August. Still fine, with some compromises, in May and September. Cold, short days in December–March. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## What should you know before driving the route from Lübeck to Grömitz?

No motorway tolls or vignettes expected for a car.

- **Germany: No motorway tolls for cars.** No general motorway speed limit (130 km/h advised) and no tolls for cars.

## FAQs

**How long is Lakes, cliffs and kites – by camper through East Holstein to Fehmarn?**
8-day road trip of about 221 km (137 mi) with 14 stops, from Lübeck to Grömitz. About 3 h 03 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Lakes, cliffs and kites – by camper through East Holstein to Fehmarn?**
We suggest 8 days: about 3 h 03 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Lakes, cliffs and kites – by camper through East Holstein to Fehmarn start and end?**
It starts in Lübeck and ends in Grömitz.

**Which countries does Lakes, cliffs and kites – by camper through East Holstein to Fehmarn pass through?**
Germany.

**Where can you camp along Lakes, cliffs and kites – by camper through East Holstein to Fehmarn?**
OpenStreetMap lists 200 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Camping Schwalkenberg, WoMo Sierksdorf and Naturpark-Camping Prinzenholz.