# Rice fields, vine-covered hills and salami – by camper from Pavia through the Lomellina and Oltrepò to Bobbio

> Around 300 kilometres from the outskirts of Milan via the Certosa, Pavia and Vigevano, through the rice plain of the Lomellina, across the Po into the wine…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-445-pavia-lomellina-oltrepo/

**At a glance:** 6-day road trip of about 244 km (152 mi) with 14 stops, from Milan to Bobbio. About 3 h 22 min of driving in total. Best time to go: May–June and September–October. Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €14 (Italy). Around 300 kilometres from the outskirts of Milan via the Certosa, Pavia and Vigevano, through the rice plain of the Lomellina, across the Po into the wine hills of the Oltrepò and over the Penice Pass down to Bobbio on the Trebbia.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | approx. 244 km (152 mi) |
| Driving | 3 h 22 min |
| Suggested days | 6 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Milan → Bobbio |
| Countries | Italy |
| Best time to go | May–June and September–October |
| Tolls and vignettes | ≈ €14 |
| Updated | October 1, 2026 |

[Download GPX file](https://camping-spirit.com/gpx/rf-445-pavia-lomellina-oltrepo.gpx)

Practical guides for this route: [Italy by motorhome: tolls, ZTL, speed limits and where to stay](https://camping-spirit.com/magazine/eu-italy-by-motorhome/)

*Around 300 kilometres from the outskirts of Milan via the Certosa, Pavia and Vigevano, through the rice plain of the Lomellina, across the Po into the wine hills of the Oltrepò and over the Penice Pass down to Bobbio on the Trebbia.*

## The spirit of the route

This route begins where Milan frays at the edges, and it gets slower with every kilometre. Beyond the Certosa lies Pavia with its covered bridge over the Ticino, and then comes the Lomellina: a plain of water and mirrors, where in spring the sky lies in the flooded rice fields, herons stand on the embankments and church towers are the only landmarks. South of the Po the land rises. In the Oltrepò Pavese, Croatina and Pinot nero grow right up to the garden fences, the roads follow the ridges, and from the sliding door you look across rows of vines to the Alps, and on clear days as far as Monte Rosa. Varzi smells of air-dried salami, the Staffora valley of chestnut woods. Finally, over the Penice, you roll down to Bobbio, where a humpbacked stone bridge crosses the Trebbia. It is a journey through little-known country, without grand scenery, but with a great deal of depth.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Outskirts of Milan to Pavia (via the Certosa di Pavia) (approx. 35 km)

- **The drive:** Start on the southern edge of Milan, ideally from a campsite or aire outside the low-emission zone, without driving into the centre. Head south on the SS35 “dei Giovi” alongside the Naviglio Pavese, flat and straight, through industrial estates and fields. Turn off for the Certosa di Pavia, then drive the last few kilometres to Pavia. Pure driving time is under an hour, considerably more in rush-hour traffic.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Certosa di Pavia: the charterhouse founded by Gian Galeazzo Visconti at the end of the 14th century, with a marble façade, a large cloister and monks’ cells with little gardens; run by the state since 2026, admission charged, closed on Mondays – check opening times in advance.
  - Pavia, Ponte Coperto: the covered bridge over the Ticino, rebuilt around 1950 after wartime destruction – the best view is from the riverside path in the Borgo Ticino district.
  - Cycle path along the Naviglio Pavese: if you have bikes with you, you can ride a section of the canal towpath between Pavia and the Certosa.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Ticino on the western edge of Pavia near the Ticino: a shady town campsite with electricity, sanitary facilities and a service point, with a bus to the centre nearby. Check the season and facilities in advance. We know of no official municipal aire in Pavia – check the current situation in CamperOnline or Campercontact.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Under Italian law you may spend the night in your vehicle wherever parking is permitted, as long as you are not camping (no chairs, no awning, no levelling jacks). In Pavia this is possible in large car parks outside the old town, but they are not very quiet; at the Certosa, a private camper car park is listed in the apps. On the banks of the Ticino the rules of the Parco del Ticino apply – do not stay there overnight.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Pavia’s old town is a ZTL with camera enforcement; fines are sent to your home address by post. Park outside the ring and walk – the university, San Michele and the Castello Visconteo are all just a few minutes away. Use Milan itself only as a starting point: with Area B the city has a camera-enforced low-emission zone covering almost the entire municipal area, and with Area C a charged inner-city zone; both also apply to foreign vehicles.

### Stage 2: Pavia to Vigevano (approx. 40 km)

- **The drive:** Spend the morning in Pavia, then cross one of the town’s Ticino bridges to the west bank and take provincial roads via Gambolò to Vigevano. A flat route through poplar plantations, rice fields and small villages, with some narrow village through-roads. A good hour’s driving.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Basilica di San Michele Maggiore in Pavia: a Romanesque sandstone church with mythical beasts on the façade, coronation church of medieval kings – Frederick Barbarossa was crowned here.
  - Università di Pavia: the courtyards of the historic main building on Strada Nuova with arcades and memorial plaques, usually open during the day.
  - Piazza Ducale in Vigevano: the arcaded square laid out by Ludovico il Moro at the end of the 15th century, with the Castello Sforzesco and the Bramante Tower behind it.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Area Sosta Camper Vigevano: a municipal area for a dozen or so vehicles within walking distance of the centre. Facilities, fees and maximum stay have changed in the past – check in advance in CamperOnline or Campercontact. If you need electricity and showers, stay a second night at Camping Ticino in Pavia and visit Vigevano as a day trip.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Vigevano and the entire Ticino valley lie within the Parco Lombardo della Valle del Ticino. Camping is prohibited in the riverside woods and on the river’s gravel banks, and many farm tracks are closed to traffic. Spend the night at the Area di sosta, not by the river.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Piazza Ducale and the surrounding lanes are a pedestrian zone or ZTL – sat navs still like to lead you in. The Museo Internazionale della Calzatura in the Castello explains why Vigevano was once Italy’s shoe town. Do not let yourself be routed over the pontoon bridge (ponte di barche) at Bereguardo: it is narrow and fragile, and is repeatedly closed during floods and for repairs – not a sensible shortcut for motorhomes.

### Stage 3: Vigevano to Casteggio (through the Lomellina and across the Po) (approx. 75 km)

- **The drive:** South-west to Mortara, then via Lomello and Pieve del Cairo through the heart of the Lomellina. Dead-straight roads on embankments between rice fields and irrigation canals, partly without hard shoulders; in spring and at harvest time in September and October there is a lot of farm machinery on the road. Cross the Po into the Voghera area and continue to Casteggio at the foot of the wine hills. Around 1.5 hours’ driving.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Mortara: Abbazia di Sant’Albino on the edge of town, a stop on the Via Francigena; the town is known for its goose salami (salame d’oca).
  - Lomello: the Romanesque Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore and, next to it, the early medieval baptistery of San Giovanni ad Fontes – two of the oldest buildings in Lombardy.
  - The flooded rice fields between April and June, with grey herons and little egrets on the embankments – most beautiful in low evening light.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Area Camper Torricella Verzate, a small municipal area with just a few pitches a few kilometres east of Casteggio. Alternatively, stay at a wine estate or agriturismo with camper pitches, such as the Azienda Agrituristica Torrazzetta near Borgo Priolo. Ask in advance about electricity, service point and season in each case.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** There are hardly any aires in the Lomellina, and the tracks along the rice fields are private roads belonging to the farms or the canal authorities – do not park there. On the banks of the Po, flood and nature-protection rules apply; do not spend the night on gravel banks or in the riverside woods, as the river rises quickly after rain.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The province’s older Po bridges have repeatedly been renovated in recent years, closed at times or restricted for heavy vehicles. Before setting off, check the current situation with the Province of Pavia or in a navigation app with traffic data. By the rice fields, mosquitoes are a real plague from dusk onwards: close the fly screens before you switch the lights on.

### Stage 4: Casteggio to Fortunago (wine loop through the Oltrepò Pavese) (approx. 50 km)

- **The drive:** From Casteggio climb south to Montalto Pavese, then follow the ridges east towards Canneto Pavese and head south again to Fortunago. Narrow, winding provincial roads along the ridges, partly single-track with passing places, short steep ramps and hairpin bends in the villages. Drive slowly; around 1.5 to 2 hours’ pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Montalto Pavese: a ridge-top village with a castle and Italian garden and a panoramic view over the vineyards to the Po plain; the castle is private and only open for events.
  - Canneto Pavese: a wine village on the slopes, around which Buttafuoco and the sweet red Sangue di Giuda are produced.
  - Casteggio: the archaeological museum in the Certosa Cantù, devoted to the Roman settlement of Clastidium.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Area camper di Fortunago on the edge of the small, well-kept hill village: a simple area with just a few pitches; check water, waste disposal and electricity in advance. Several wine estates in the Oltrepò offer camper pitches for guests, often with a wine tasting – book through the winery-stopover networks or ask directly.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** There are many lay-bys with views in the hills, but most of them are on farm tracks leading to the vineyards. Ask at a wine estate – an evening on a farm is easier to come by here than a legal spot at the roadside.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese is made from Croatina and usually drunk lightly sparkling; Pinot nero is the basis of Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico. Many wineries open by appointment only. During the grape harvest in September and October, tractors with trailers stand in the hairpins; do not overtake on blind crests. Better to buy an extra bottle and not drive: the limit in Italy is 0.5 per mille, and 0.0 for drivers who have held their licence for less than three years.

### Stage 5: Fortunago to Varzi (via Salice Terme) (approx. 45 km)

- **The drive:** Descend through the hills to the plain at the mouth of the Staffora to Salice Terme, then take the valley road (SS461) up the Valle Staffora via Godiasco and Ponte Nizza to Varzi. The valley road is well built; the approach roads from Fortunago are narrow. A good hour.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Salice Terme: a small spa town with Art Nouveau villas, Belle Époque hotels and a shady park; the thermal baths have been closed for years and are being redeveloped – check the status of the reopening in advance.
  - Abbazia di Sant’Alberto di Butrio above Ponte Nizza: a hermitage with frescoes in the woods, reached by a narrow mountain road – with large vehicles it is better to walk from the lower car park.
  - Varzi: a medieval centre with arcades, the Torre delle Streghe and the Malaspina tower; Salame di Varzi DOP in the butchers’ shops of the old town.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Varzi itself, Agriturismo La Sorgente takes campers; further up the valley near Santa Margherita di Staffora is Campeggio Alta Valle Staffora, a simple campsite surrounded by greenery. Ask about facilities and season at both in advance; the mountain campsites usually open only in the summer half of the year.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Staffora valley there are car parks on the edges of villages where overnight stays without camping behaviour are tolerated. Do not park in the bed of the Staffora – thunderstorms in the Apennines can make the water level rise quickly.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Varzi lies on the old salt road (Via del Sale) to Liguria, today a hiking trail. Buy salami directly from the producer and ask about the degree of ageing – the difference between briefly and long-aged salami is considerable. The lanes in the old town are narrow; leave the camper on the edge of town.

### Stage 6: Varzi to Bobbio (via the Valle Staffora and the Passo del Penice) (approx. 60 km)

- **The drive:** First a detour up the valley to Santa Margherita di Staffora into the quiet upper Staffora valley and back to Varzi. Then take the Penice road (SS461) through countless bends in chestnut and beech woods up to the Passo del Penice (around 1,150 m), where you leave Lombardy, and wind down through hairpins into the Trebbia valley of Emilia to Bobbio. A mountain road with a narrow carriageway in places and sections at risk of rockfall; around 2 hours including the detour.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Monte Penice (around 1,460 m): walk from the pass to the summit with its chapel and transmitter mast, with views over the northern Apennines and the Po plain.
  - Ponte Gobbo (Ponte Vecchio) in Bobbio: the humpbacked stone bridge with irregular arches over the Trebbia, at its most beautiful in the evening light from the gravel bank.
  - Abbazia di San Colombano: the abbey founded by the Irish monk Columbanus at the beginning of the 7th century, with a museum and crypt in the town centre.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Area Sosta Camper Bobbio on Via Genova, about 600 m from the centre: a tarmac, lit area for around 30 vehicles with water, grey-water and cassette disposal, electricity for a fee, payment at the machine. Alternatively, Camping Pontegobbo on the Trebbia near the old bridge, with electricity and sanitary facilities; check the season in advance.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** At the Passo del Penice there are car parks for hikers and skiers; spending the night there without camping behaviour is not expressly prohibited, but in winter it is problematic because of snow clearing. The gravel banks of the Trebbia are busy in summer, and camping and fires are not allowed there – the area in Bobbio is the more relaxed choice.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Drive the Penice road in daylight and avoid weekend afternoons, when groups of motorcyclists are out. Stay in a low gear on the descent to Bobbio. The centre of Bobbio is narrow and partly traffic-calmed: leave the camper at the area and walk across the bridge. From Bobbio, the SS45 takes you either to Piacenza or through the Trebbia valley to Genoa.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) distinguishes between “sosta” and “campeggio”: a motorhome may park, including overnight, anywhere parking is permitted. What is prohibited is camping behaviour – chairs, tables, awning, lowered jacks or levelling ramps, grey water on the ground.
- Municipalities can restrict this by ordinance; signs showing a crossed-out motorhome or height barriers at car parks are meant seriously. In Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna there is no general ban on wild camping, but there are many local rules.
- Camping is prohibited in the Parco Lombardo della Valle del Ticino and on the banks of the Po and the Trebbia; gravel banks and riverside woods are also dangerous during floods. Rice-field embankments and farm tracks are private.
- You can spend the night legally at campsites, municipal “aree di sosta camper” and at wine estates or agriturismi with camper pitches. Useful apps: CamperOnline (Italian directory of aires with user reports), park4night, Campercontact.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Water and waste disposal is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. On this route the network is thin: Pavia, Vigevano and Bobbio are the most reliable points; in the Lomellina and the Oltrepò it pays to start each stage with a full fresh-water tank and an empty cassette.
- Empty grey water and cassettes only at service points; village drains and the ditches beside the rice fields are off-limits – the canals feed the irrigation system.
- Tap water is generally drinkable; at fountains, look out for “acqua potabile” or “acqua non potabile”.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks can be filled at LPG (GPL) filling stations with the Italian (“Dish”) adapter; there are several stations on the plain around Pavia and Voghera, but hardly any in the Apennines. Fill up before heading into the Staffora valley.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on dual carriageways, 130 km/h on motorways; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on motorways. Car and caravan combinations: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on motorways. Dipped headlights are compulsory outside built-up areas during the day.
- Milan: Area B (low-emission zone covering almost the entire city, driving bans based on Euro standard) and Area C (charged city centre) are camera-enforced and also apply to foreign vehicles. Rules and exemptions change in stages – check with the City of Milan in advance or bypass the city.
- ZTL: the old towns of Pavia and Vigevano have camera-monitored limited traffic zones; fines arrive by post, often months later. Smaller places such as Bobbio also have traffic-calmed centres.
- Motorway tolls (A7 Milan–Genoa, A21 Turin–Piacenza with the Casteggio exit): two-axle motorhomes more than 1.30 m high above the front axle travel in class B. Payment in cash, by card or via Telepass or an EU toll box.
- If a load protrudes beyond the rear of the vehicle – such as bikes on a rear rack – the red-and-white reflective warning sign (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory.
- Winter equipment is generally required on many roads in Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna from 15 November to 15 April, and on the Penice it is also needed in practice. Use a mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free system; penalties were increased with the reform of the highway code.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Fly screens for door, windows and roof vent plus insect repellent – by the rice fields of the Lomellina and along the Ticino, mosquitoes are very active from spring to autumn.
- Italian gas adapter for LPG filling stations, because the exchange-cylinder system is not compatible and there are hardly any filling stations in the Apennines.
- Levelling ramps – pitches at wine estates and in the hill villages are rarely level, and ramps belong only on aires, not in car parks.
- A folding cool box or a free compartment in the fridge for Salame di Varzi, goose salami from Mortara and wine from the Oltrepò.
- Red-and-white warning sign for the rear rack: the towpath along the Naviglio Pavese and the quiet roads of the Lomellina are made for cycling.
- Offline maps that show road widths: sat navs like to send campers in the Oltrepò along single-track vineyard lanes.

_As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Sources

- [Campercontact – Area Sosta Camper Bobbio](https://www.campercontact.com/de/md/53001)
- [Campercontact – Camping Ticino (Pavia)](https://www.campercontact.com/en/md/55393)
- [stellplatz.info – Stellplätze in und um Varzi](https://stellplatz.info/it/posto-auto-camper/varzi)
- [Anas – SS461 del Passo del Penice, Arbeiten an Brücken in Bagnaria (2023)](https://stradeanas.it/it/print/105072)
- [Il Giorno – Nuovo ponte della Becca nel 2030](https://www.ilgiorno.it/pavia/politica/nuovo-ponte-della-becca-wutde7ku)
- [Il Giorno – Svolta al ponte di barche (Bereguardo, 2026)](https://www.ilgiorno.it/pavia/cronaca/svolta-al-ponte-di-barche-345a896e)
- [Il Giorno – Maltempo, Ticino: ponte di barche chiuso](https://www.ilgiorno.it/pavia/cronaca/maltempo-ticino-ponte-chiuso-jfp2ba57)
- [Italia.it – Ponte delle Barche, Bereguardo](https://www.italia.it/it/lombardia/pavia/ponte-delle-barche)
- [Mentelocale – Complesso monumentale e Museo della Certosa di Pavia: gli orari estivi 2026](https://www.mentelocale.it/pavia/121571-complesso-monumentale-e-museo-della-certosa-di-pavia-gli-orari-estivi.htm)
- [Tio.ch – Certosa di Pavia: i monaci lasciano, gestione statale dal 2026](https://www.tio.ch/dal-mondo/cronaca/1869005/certosa-monaci-pavia-accesso-italia)
- [greenMe – Terme di Salice: lavori di recupero (2026)](https://www.greenme.it/?p=1369828)
- [Il Giorno – Area B, le regole](https://www.ilgiorno.it/milano/cronaca/area-b-regole-umw26lnz)

## Which stops are on the route from Milan to Bobbio?

1. **Milan** (Italy)
2. **Certosa di Pavia** (Certosa di Pavia, Italy): A great Carthusian monastery of the 14th and 15th centuries with a carved marble façade and cloisters lined with monks’ cells. Entry is free; it closes on Mondays and at midday, so check times.
3. **Pavia** (Italy)
4. **Vigevano** (Italy)
5. **Mortara** (Italy)
6. **Lomello** (Italy)
7. **Casteggio** (Italy)
8. **Montalto Pavese** (Italy)
9. **Canneto Pavese** (Italy)
10. **Fortunago** (Italy)
11. **Salice Terme** (Italy)
12. **Varzi** (Italy)
13. **Passo del Penice** (Italy)
14. **Bobbio** (Italy)

## When is the best time for the route from Milan to Bobbio?

The most pleasant months are usually May–June and September–October. Still fine, with some compromises, in April and July–August. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## What should you know before driving the route from Milan to Bobbio?

Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €14 (Italy).

- **Italy: Motorway tolls.** Tolls on most autostrade; pay at the barrier by card or cash. Motorway limit for cars: 130 km/h.
- **Milan: Limited traffic zone (ZTL).** Cameras fine unauthorised vehicles in the historic centre, including hire cars. Park outside and walk or take transit; hotels inside may register your plate.

## FAQs

**How long is Rice fields, vine-covered hills and salami – by camper from Pavia through the Lomellina and Oltrepò to Bobbio?**
6-day road trip of about 244 km (152 mi) with 14 stops, from Milan to Bobbio. About 3 h 22 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Rice fields, vine-covered hills and salami – by camper from Pavia through the Lomellina and Oltrepò to Bobbio?**
We suggest 6 days: about 3 h 22 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Rice fields, vine-covered hills and salami – by camper from Pavia through the Lomellina and Oltrepò to Bobbio start and end?**
It starts in Milan and ends in Bobbio.

**Which countries does Rice fields, vine-covered hills and salami – by camper from Pavia through the Lomellina and Oltrepò to Bobbio pass through?**
Italy.

**Where can you camp along Rice fields, vine-covered hills and salami – by camper from Pavia through the Lomellina and Oltrepò to Bobbio?**
OpenStreetMap lists 35 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Camping Ticino, Terme di Monte Valenza and Campeggio Alta Valle Staffora.

**How much are the tolls on the route from Milan to Bobbio?**
Tolls and vignettes for a car: about €14 (Italy). Estimate with typical rates; motorhomes pay more, and vehicles over 3.5 t often pay by distance.