# Castles, bazaars and bunker bays – by camper from Shkodra via Berat to the Albanian Riviera > Around 630 kilometres from Lake Shkodra via the stone towns of Berat and Gjirokastra, the Blue Eye and Butrint, and over the Llogara Pass to Vlora: an… Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-323-albania-riviera-berat/ **At a glance:** 8-day road trip of about 498 km (309 mi) with 12 stops, from Shkodër to Vlorë. About 6 h 52 min of driving in total. Best time to go: April–May and September–October. No motorway tolls or vignettes expected for a car. Around 630 kilometres from Lake Shkodra via the stone towns of Berat and Gjirokastra, the Blue Eye and Butrint, and over the Llogara Pass to Vlora: an Albanian loop on which you need cash, a water supply and patience just as much as an eye for evening light over the Ionian Sea. | | | |---|---| | Distance | approx. 498 km (309 mi) | | Driving | 6 h 52 min | | Suggested days | 8 | | Stops | 12 | | Route | Shkodër → Vlorë | | Countries | Albania | | Best time to go | April–May and September–October | | Tolls and vignettes | None expected | | Updated | October 1, 2026 | [Download GPX file](https://camping-spirit.com/gpx/rf-323-albania-riviera-berat.gpx) *Around 630 kilometres from Lake Shkodra via the stone towns of Berat and Gjirokastra, the Blue Eye and Butrint, and over the Llogara Pass to Vlora: an Albanian loop on which you need cash, a water supply and patience just as much as an eye for evening light over the Ionian Sea.* ## The spirit of the route Driving in Albania feels like driving through a country under reconstruction. Next to brand-new expressways, goats graze on the verge, every other junction has a car wash, and the concrete mushrooms of Hoxha's bunkers still squat on the hills. In the north, Lake Shkodra lies mirror-smooth beneath Rozafa Castle; in Berat the windows of the Ottoman houses look down the slope one above the other; in Gjirokastra the stone roofs shine silver-grey in the midday heat. Then the landscape tips towards the sea: olive groves, lemon gardens, bays in a blue that wells up out of the ground at the Blue Eye. From the sliding door you see fishermen on the Butrint channel, cows on the beach at Borsh and, in the evening, the lights of Corfu. This route demands attention for potholes, donkeys and overtaking manoeuvres – and rewards you with hospitality, raki at the camping table and coast roads that have not yet been entirely concreted over. ## Stage-by-stage plan ### Stage 1: Shkodra to Kruja (approx. 85 km) - **The drive:** Morning in Shkodra: Rozafa Castle on the hill south-west of town, then south on the SH1 to Lezha. The road is wide but marked by village through-roads, roundabouts and vehicles making spontaneous U-turns. At Milot continue towards Fushë-Kruja, turn left there and climb the hillside in hairpins to Kruja. Around 2 hours of pure driving time; the last climb is narrow, with little space at the top. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Rozafa Castle, with views over the confluence of the Buna, Drin and Kir and across Lake Shkodra – at its best in the late afternoon or early morning. - Marubi National Museum of Photography in Shkodra's pedestrian zone, with images from more than a hundred years of Albanian history. - The lakeside promenade at Shiroka on the western shore of Lake Shkodra, with fish restaurants and views of the mountains of Montenegro. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Near Shkodra, Lake Shkodra Resort on the lakeshore at Grilë north of town and Camping Legjenda south of the centre are both established stops for motorhomes, with electricity and sanitary facilities; ask about water and waste disposal in advance. Kruja itself has no conventional campsite; pitch directories list Nord Park Resort near Kruja – check facilities and access beforehand. Many travellers spend two nights at Lake Shkodra and visit Kruja as a side trip. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** According to ADAC, wild camping is generally permitted in Albania, but restricted or prohibited in national parks and protected areas; on private land you need the owner's permission. At Lake Shkodra, parts of the shore are protected and many lakeside plots are private. If in doubt, ask a restaurant owner – you are often allowed to stay in return for dinner. In Kruja there is too little space for wild campers. - **Insider tip for campers:** If you are coming from Montenegro, you will usually use the Hani i Hotit or Sukobin–Muriqan crossing. Straight after the border, withdraw lek from a cash machine in Shkodra and get an Albanian SIM or eSIM – Albania is not part of the EU roaming zone. In Kruja, don't drive up to the bazaar: leave the camper at the lower edge of town and walk the cobbled bazaar. ### Stage 2: Kruja to Durrës (approx. 55 km) - **The drive:** Back down to Fushë-Kruja and across the plain towards the coast. Depending on your choice of route, you use the new toll road Thumanë–Kashar, which bypasses Tirana to the north, or the old road via Vora; from Vora the A1 motorway leads to Durrës. A good hour, with heavy lorry and commuter traffic in the Tirana–Durrës area. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Skanderbeg Museum and Kruja Castle, with the Ethnographic Museum in an old townhouse. - The Roman amphitheatre of Durrës, right in among residential buildings, with an early Christian chapel inside. - The Venetian Tower and the Durrës seafront promenade at sunset. - **Official campsite or RV park:** In the Durrës area there are only a few, often small sites and beach campsites, mainly south of town towards Golem – check current listings in campsite directories. Facilities vary widely – electricity and showers are usual, a proper disposal station less so. In July and August the beach sites are full and noisy. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The coast between Durrës and Golem is densely built up, and in summer the beaches are covered with loungers and bars. Wild camping is unrealistic here and frowned upon by beach operators and police. For a day of sightseeing in town, a guarded car park is the better choice. - **Insider tip for campers:** The old town of Durrës is small and tight for a motorhome – park near the port or on the promenade outside the centre. Fill up at large branded filling stations; card payment usually works there, at small stations it's cash only. ### Stage 3: Durrës to Berat (approx. 95 km) - **The drive:** South on the A1/SH4 to Rrogozhina and across the Myzeqe plain to Lushnja, then inland via Ura Vajgurore to Berat. Flat, but with many village through-roads, cyclists, horse carts and roadworks. Just under 2 hours. At the end the Osum valley opens up, with the Tomorr massif in the background. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - The Kala castle quarter above Berat: an inhabited castle district with Byzantine churches and the Onufri Icon Museum in the Church of St Mary. - The view from the Gorica bank of the window façades of Mangalem – the classic photo spot, best in late-afternoon light. - The Gorica Bridge over the Osum and, in the evening, the xhiro, the locals' promenade along the boulevard. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Berat Caravan Camping on the edge of town has for years been the best-known site for motorhomes in the region, with electricity, sanitary facilities and garden pitches; directories also list smaller camper pitches in Berat. Ask the operator about water and waste disposal and the season in advance; you get to the centre by bus or taxi. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Wild camping within Berat is not a good idea: the streets on the castle hill are narrow and steep, and parking is scarce. Upstream on the Osum towards the canyon there are gravel banks where campers park – but floods, gravel extraction and private pasture carry risks. Better to use the campsite. - **Insider tip for campers:** On no account drive your motorhome up to Kala Castle: the cobbled road is steep and slippery and ends in alleys with nowhere to turn. The walk up from the centre takes around 20 minutes; bring shoes with good grip. ### Stage 4: Berat to Gjirokastra (approx. 150 km) - **The drive:** From Berat back to Ura Vajgurore and via Fier or the link road towards Levan onto the SH4 heading south, through the Vjosa gorge via Tepelena to Gjirokastra. In the south there has been a lot of construction on the A2 extension and around Tepelena – expect diversions, unmarked lane changes and a 30 km/h limit through roadworks. From Tepelena the road runs through the wide Drino valley. 3 to 3.5 hours. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - The Vjosa, one of the last largely free-flowing large rivers in Europe, protected since 2023 as a Wild River National Park – photo stops on the gravel banks near Tepelena. - Gjirokastra Castle, with its weapons collection and the wreck of a US reconnaissance plane from the Cold War. - Zekate House and Skenduli House, two of the tower-like Ottoman residences with wooden ceilings and fireplace rooms. - **Official campsite or RV park:** In Gjirokastra itself the camping options are thin and change; on the way, near Tepelena, directories list Wild River Camping on the Vjosa. Check facilities, season and access beforehand. Alternatively, many travellers only stop for the night the following evening on the coast near Saranda. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Drino valley there are farm tracks and river gravel areas where campers park; these areas are often pasture, however, and the Vjosa protected-area rules also apply to its tributaries. If you camp wild, stay inconspicuous, stay only one night, light no fires and leave nothing behind. - **Insider tip for campers:** The old town of Gjirokastra lies steeply on the hillside; the alleys are paved with limestone and slippery when wet. Park in the new town down in the valley and walk up. On the drive from Berat, fill up before the Vjosa gorge – filling stations are thinner on the ground in the valley. ### Stage 5: Gjirokastra to Saranda via the Blue Eye (approx. 60 km) - **The drive:** South through the Drino valley, then right onto the SH99 over the Muzina Pass. The road is winding and partly narrow at the top of the pass, with lorry and bus traffic heading for the coast. Shortly before the turn-off to the Blue Eye, a narrow spur road leads to the car park. Then downhill through olive groves to Saranda. About 1.5 hours without stops. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Syri i Kaltër (Blue Eye): a karst spring whose deep-blue funnel pushes water up to the surface under great pressure – go early in the morning, before the coaches. - Monastery and ruins near Mesopotam on the road to Saranda. - Lëkurësi Castle above Saranda, with views over the bay and Corfu – at sunset. - **Official campsite or RV park:** According to directories, Saranda Camping “Riverside” on the edge of town is set up for motorhomes; ask about facilities and disposal beforehand. The town itself is densely built up and hard work for large vehicles; the campsites in Ksamil are the quieter alternative. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** At the Blue Eye, overnight stays in the car park and in the surrounding protected area are not intended; the spring is protected and swimming is prohibited. In and around Saranda, wild camping is hardly possible because of the buildings and checks. - **Insider tip for campers:** At the Blue Eye a parking fee and admission are charged, and the amounts have changed several times in recent years – keep lek in small notes to hand. The access road from the SH99 is narrow and full of parked cars in season; with a large motorhome, come early or park at the turn-off and walk the last stretch along the stream. In Saranda, buy water at large supermarkets and stock up on food for the coast. ### Stage 6: Saranda to Ksamil and Butrint (approx. 40 km) - **The drive:** From Saranda south on the coast road to Ksamil and on to the Butrint channel, then back to your pitch. A short distance, but in high summer with long queues in Ksamil, double-parked vehicles and narrow through-roads. A good hour there and back, considerably more in August. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Butrint Archaeological Park (UNESCO World Heritage Site): Greek theatre, baptistery with mosaic floor, Venetian tower, all in a forest on Lake Butrint. - The small cable ferry across the Vivari Channel to the triangular Venetian castle opposite the park entrance; Ali Pasha's castle on a small island at the mouth of the channel can only be reached by boat. - The small islands off the beach at Ksamil, quieter in spring and autumn than in July. - **Official campsite or RV park:** Ksamil Caravan Camping is the best-known site for motorhomes in Ksamil, with electricity and sanitary facilities; clarify pitch length and disposal before you arrive. In high season, be sure to get in touch in advance – the access roads in Ksamil are narrow. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Butrint is a national park; overnight stays in the park and in the car park at the entrance are not permitted. In Ksamil every metre is built on or leased – wild camping doesn't work here. - **Insider tip for campers:** Drive to the Butrint car park early, before the coaches arrive from Saranda and from the Corfu ferries. The cable ferry across the channel is small; ask on site whether and on what terms motorhomes are taken – it isn't needed for this route. Mosquito repellent: evenings on Lake Butrint are humid. ### Stage 7: Ksamil to Himara (approx. 75 km) - **The drive:** Back to Saranda and north on the SH8 via Lukova, Borsh and Porto Palermo to Himara. The coast road is surfaced but full of bends, with exposed sections on the hillside, partly without a centre line and with rockfall after heavy rain. A good 2 hours without stops; between Borsh and Himara there are few lay-bys for photo stops. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - Borsh beach, one of the longest pebble beaches on the Riviera, with olive terraces and the ruins of Sopot Castle in the hinterland. - Ali Pasha's castle on the Porto Palermo peninsula, at the end of a short causeway. - Himara old town, with castle walls above the village and views over the bays of Spile and Livadhi. - **Official campsite or RV park:** At Livadhi bay near Himara, directories list Camping Himara and Camping Kranea; the sites cater for tents and campers, are simple, with showers and electricity. Access roads to the bays are partly steep and narrow – ask about length limits and access before you arrive. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** On Borsh beach and in some bays north of it, campers often park outside the main season on gravel areas behind the beach. Legally this is a grey area: plots are frequently private or leased, and municipalities have them cleared in season. Ask at a beach bar and it is usually tolerated. Gjipe bay between Himara and Dhërmi can be reached via a gravel track that is not suitable for motorhomes. - **Insider tip for campers:** There are only a few filling stations between Saranda and Himara – fill up in Saranda. Drive the coast in daylight: unlit pedestrians, goats on the road and oncoming overtakers are a real risk at night. ### Stage 8: Himara to Vlora via the Llogara Pass (approx. 72 km) - **The drive:** Via Dhërmi on the SH8 up tight hairpins to the Llogara Pass (a good 1,000 m), then through Llogara National Park down to Dukat and along the Bay of Vlora via Orikum to Vlora. Gradients of 8 to 10%, with the tightest hairpins on the Dhërmi side. Since 2024 the Llogara Tunnel, around 6 km long, has run beneath the pass (Palasa–Dukat), with a toll; it has been closed at times for finishing work, and in summer heavy vehicles have at times been banned – check the current situation before you set off. For the view, the old pass road is worthwhile; in fog or snow the tunnel is the safe choice. About 2 hours over the pass. - **Highlights & must-sees:** - The viewpoint at the top of the pass, looking over the whole Riviera as far as Corfu – clearest in the afternoon, once the morning haze has lifted. - The wind-shaped “Flag Pine” (Pisha e Flamurit) in Llogara National Park and short forest paths among black pines. - Kanina Castle above Vlora and the Zvërnec Monastery on an island in the Narta Lagoon north of town. - **Official campsite or RV park:** In the Vlora area there are simple sites on the bay towards Orikum and Radhima; the offering changes, so check current entries in campsite directories. Clarify facilities, season and disposal beforehand. In Llogara National Park there are restaurants with car parks, but no designated campsite. - **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Llogara National Park, overnight stays outside designated areas are not intended; at the pass restaurants you are occasionally tolerated as a guest – only with the landlord's permission. At the Narta Lagoon north of Vlora, campers park on farm tracks, but the area is part of a protected area with bird breeding zones. - **Insider tip for campers:** Don't drive the pass road in the dark or in thick fog. Going downhill towards Dhërmi and Dukat, use second gear and engine braking, and let buses go first on the hairpins. The tunnel has its own tolls by vehicle class (motorhomes, depending on size, in a higher class than cars) and possibly restrictions for heavy vehicles – watch the signs at the entrance. ## Camping practice & local rules ### Wild camping & overnight parking - According to ADAC, wild camping is generally permitted in Albania and is mostly tolerated outside protected areas and villages. In national parks and protected areas it may be prohibited or restricted, and on private land you need the owner's permission; municipalities, police and landowners can move you on – if in doubt, ask at the municipality. - Camping is prohibited in national parks and protected areas (including Butrint, Llogara, the Blue Eye, the Vjosa Wild River National Park and the Narta Lagoon) and on private land without permission. Many beaches are leased; in summer, municipalities on the Riviera clear them regularly. - In practice: ask restaurant owners or farmers whether you may stay – in return for a meal or a few lek this is often allowed. No fires in summer (forest fire risk), leave no rubbish behind, don't drain grey water. - Useful apps: park4night, iOverlander and Campercontact; the data for Albania is often patchy or out of date – read the comments from recent months. ### Waste disposal & supplies - Service stations of the Central European kind hardly exist. Empty grey water and cassettes at campsites – ask beforehand exactly where; sometimes there are only the toilets in the sanitary block. - Tap water is not drinkable everywhere in Albania, and supply in coastal towns sometimes fails in summer. Buy drinking water in bottles or large canisters; use a water filter or disinfectant when filling the tank. Locals use spring water from roadside fountains (burim), but the quality is not guaranteed. - Gas: autogas (LPG) is widely available in Albania, and refillable bottles and gas tanks can be filled with it; carry an adapter set (Dish, bayonet, ACME). German exchange bottles are not swapped – enter the country with two full bottles. - Cash: small filling stations, car parks and many campsites take only lek or euros in cash; you can get lek from the cash machines of large banks. ### Vehicle size & traffic rules - Entry: Albania is not in the EU. Carry your vehicle registration document, driving licence and passport or ID card. The Green Card (International Motor Insurance Card) is required – check that “AL” is not crossed out; otherwise you must take out border insurance at the border. If you are not the registered keeper, you need a letter of authorisation. - Speed limits according to ADAC: cars 40 km/h in built-up areas, 80 km/h outside built-up areas, 90 km/h on expressways, 110 km/h on motorways; motorhomes (light and heavy) 40 km/h in built-up areas, 70 km/h outside built-up areas and on expressways, 90 km/h on motorways; vehicles with trailers 35 km/h in built-up areas, 70 km/h outside built-up areas and on expressways, 80 km/h on motorways. Often 30 km/h through roadworks. - Alcohol: the blood alcohol limit is 0.1 per mille – practically zero, so don't drink before driving. Phone calls only hands-free. Dipped headlights are compulsory in daytime too. Every accident must be reported to the police; with visible bodywork damage you can only leave the country with a police damage report. - Police checks with radar guns are common, especially at the entrances to towns and on the coast road. Fines should be paid via a bank or post office; if you pay in cash at the roadside, insist on an official receipt. Emergency numbers: police 129, ambulance 127, fire brigade 128. - Tolls: most roads are toll-free. Tolls are charged at the Kalimash toll station on the Rruga e Kombit (A1 Milot–Morina, cars around €5, larger vehicles more; relevant if arriving from Kosovo), since January 2025 on the Thumanë–Kashar route, and in the Llogara Tunnel. Payment in cash in lek or euros, sometimes by card – no vignette. - Road conditions: main routes such as Tirana–Durrës and Fier–Vlora are well developed; in between, new asphalt, potholes and roadworks alternate without warning. Expect animals, pedestrians and risky overtaking; avoid driving at night. Winter tyres are not generally compulsory but advisable in winter on the Llogara Pass and the Muzina Pass; snow chains must be carried from 1 November to 30 April. Mobile phones: Albania is not part of the EU roaming zone. ## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist - A printed Green Card and a copy of the vehicle registration document – papers are demanded at the border and at police checks, and there is not mobile reception everywhere. - A water filter or disinfectant and two 10-litre canisters – tank water often comes from unknown pipes, and disposal and fresh water are scarce. - An adapter set for LPG filling stations and two full gas bottles when you enter the country. - Levelling ramps and sand ladders: pitches on gravel, grass and beach shingle are uneven or soft. - Lek in small notes for car parks, admissions, toll stations and small filling stations. - Mosquito repellent and a mosquito net for evenings at Lake Shkodra, Lake Butrint and the Narta Lagoon. _As of 2026-10. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._ ## Sources - [ADAC – Mit dem Fahrzeug in Albanien (Tempolimits, Promille, Licht, Grüne Karte, Camping)](https://www.adac.de/reise-freizeit/reiseplanung/reiseziele/albanien/fahrzeug) - [TCS – Länderinfos Albanien](https://www.tcs.ch/de/camping-reisen/reiseinformationen/laenderinfos/albanien.php) - [ACE – Länderinformationen Albanien](https://www.ace.de/reisen/reiseinformation/laenderinformationen/albanien/) - [Shqiptarja.com – Autostrada Kashar–Thumanë ab 4. Januar 2025 mautpflichtig](https://shqiptarja.com/lajm/pjese-e-korridorit-blu-nga-data-4-janar-2025-autostrada-kasharthumane-behet-me-pagese-kompania-koncesionare-njofton-aplikimin-e-tarifes) - [Himara.net – Llogara Tunnel: Preise, Öffnung, Sperrungen](https://himara.net/blog/llogara-tunnel-price-guide) - [Himara.net – Albania tolls and tunnel fees](https://himara.net/el/blog/albania-tolls-and-tunnel-fees) - [Himara.net – Camping an der Albanischen Riviera](https://himara.net/bg/blog/camping-albanian-riviera) - [Himara.net – Ali-Pascha-Burg Butrint](https://himara.net/fr/blog/ali-pasha-castle-butrint) - [Alan Rogers – Camping Legjenda (Shkodër)](https://alanrogers.com/campsite/camping-legjenda-northern-albania) - [Pitchup – Motorhome campsites in Albania](https://www.pitchup.com/motorhomes/albania/) ## Which stops are on the route from Shkodër to Vlorë? 1. **Shkodër** (Albania) 2. **Krujë** (Albania) 3. **Durrës** (Albania) 4. **Berat** (Albania) 5. **Gjirokastër** (Albania) 6. **Syri i Kaltër** (Albania) 7. **Sarandë** (Albania) 8. **Ksamil** (Albania) 9. **Butrint** (Albania) 10. **Himarë** (Albania) 11. **Qafa e Llogarasë** (Albania) 12. **Vlorë** (Albania) ## When is the best time for the route from Shkodër to Vlorë? The most pleasant months are usually April–May and September–October. Still fine, with some compromises, in June and November. Hot in July. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons) ## What should you know before driving the route from Shkodër to Vlorë? No motorway tolls or vignettes expected for a car. - **Albania: Tolls on some roads, bridges or tunnels.** Motorway limit for cars: 110 km/h. ## FAQs **How long is Castles, bazaars and bunker bays – by camper from Shkodra via Berat to the Albanian Riviera?** 8-day road trip of about 498 km (309 mi) with 12 stops, from Shkodër to Vlorë. About 6 h 52 min of driving in total. **How many days do you need for Castles, bazaars and bunker bays – by camper from Shkodra via Berat to the Albanian Riviera?** We suggest 8 days: about 6 h 52 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops. **Where does Castles, bazaars and bunker bays – by camper from Shkodra via Berat to the Albanian Riviera start and end?** It starts in Shkodër and ends in Vlorë. **Which countries does Castles, bazaars and bunker bays – by camper from Shkodra via Berat to the Albanian Riviera pass through?** Albania. **Where can you camp along Castles, bazaars and bunker bays – by camper from Shkodra via Berat to the Albanian Riviera?** OpenStreetMap lists 6 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Dionysus Camping Village, Karda Beach and Κάμπινγκ: Παραλία Σαγιάδας.