# Strudengau, apricot blossom and a sea of reeds – by motorhome from Passau through the Wachau and Vienna to Lake Neusiedl

> From Passau, the city of three rivers, along the Danube through the Schlögen Loop, Mauthausen and the Wachau to Vienna and on into Pannonian Burgenland, to…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-250-wachau-vienna-burgenland/

**At a glance:** 8-day road trip of about 400 km (248 mi) with 14 stops, from Passau to Mörbisch am See. About 5 h 31 min of driving in total. From Passau, the city of three rivers, along the Danube through the Schlögen Loop, Mauthausen and the Wachau to Vienna and on into Pannonian Burgenland, to wine villages, salt pans and stork nests: around 545 kilometres, best covered in short stages with bicycles on board.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | 400 km (248 mi) |
| Driving | 5 h 31 min |
| Suggested days | 8 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Passau → Mörbisch am See |
| Countries | Germany, Austria |
| Updated | September 1, 2026 |

*From Passau, the city of three rivers, along the Danube through the Schlögen Loop, Mauthausen and the Wachau to Vienna and on into Pannonian Burgenland, to wine villages, salt pans and stork nests: around 545 kilometres, best covered in short stages with bicycles on board.*

## The spirit of the route

Here the Danube is not a river you cross but one you follow. Beyond Passau it squeezes through dark granite forests in meanders, at Schlögen it almost turns back on itself, and from your sliding door you watch cargo ships glide past as silently as clouds. Further downstream, forests give way to terraced vineyards: in the Wachau, apricot trees stand between dry-stone walls, castle ruins perch on the rocks, and in the evening the air smells of Heuriger fires. In Vienna the trip turns into a city break for two days, with a tram instead of an accelerator. Then the sky opens up: beyond Parndorf the Pannonian Plain begins, a land of wind, reeds and salt pans, where greylag geese call across the shallow water and storks nest on the roofs of Rust. This route is quiet, flat and full of good things to eat and drink – a trip for cyclists, birdwatchers and wine lovers who would rather arrive than tick things off.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Passau to Linz (via the Schlögen Loop) (approx. 120 km)

- **The drive:** From Passau across the border and along the B130 Donau Straße downstream: Engelhartszell, Schlögen, Aschach, then through the Eferding Basin to Linz. The road needs no vignette, follows the river in many bends and is often shared closely with cyclists; allow about 2.5 to 3 hours of pure driving time. The motorway option via the A3/A8/A7 is faster, but needs a vignette and skips the loop.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Passau: the Dreiflüsseeck, where the Danube, Inn and Ilz meet, and St Stephen’s Cathedral with one of the largest church organs in the world.
  - Schlögen Loop: view from the Schlögener Blick over the almost circular river bend, with a climb on foot.
  - Engelszell Abbey: Austria’s only Trappist abbey, with a monastery shop selling liqueur and beer.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Schlögen, Camping Schlögen lies right on the river, handy for the loop and the cycle path. In Linz, the campsite at Pichlingersee in the south-east of the city is a good choice, with electricity and sanitary facilities; check season and opening times in advance. In Passau, the motorhome pitches at the Ilzbrücke and in the Winterhafen Racklau are run by the city.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Upper Austria the municipalities decide on camping outside of campsites; along the Danube, car parks and riverbank strips are often expressly excluded. In Passau, overnight stays are only permitted on the designated pitches. The nature reserve and riverbank at the Loop are sensitive – do not free-camp.
- **Insider tip for campers:** If you want to see the Loop, plan your break for midday, when the cycling groups head for the inn. In Linz, avoid the city centre; head for Pichlingersee, from where you can take a bus or bike into the centre.

### Stage 2: Linz to Grein (via Mauthausen) (approx. 70 km)

- **The drive:** From Linz on the B3 through the Machland to Mauthausen, then through the Enns-Donau-Auen and Perg into the Strudengau, with the former rapids and whirlpools near Struden. The road keeps a good distance from the Danube, and the villages are often tight. About two hours of driving, not including stops.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Mauthausen Concentration Camp Memorial: the former granite quarry with the Stairs of Death; with its visitor centre, a visit is a serious, well-supported experience lasting anywhere from an hour to half a day.
  - Strudengau: the narrow gorge of the Danube near Struden, with the view from the Hausstein.
  - Grein: Greinburg Castle above the old town and the town theatre of 1791.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Donau Camping Grein lies in Grein directly on the Danube, with electricity, fresh water and waste disposal, and sanitary facilities; check the season beforehand. Camping Au an der Donau lies a few kilometres beyond Mauthausen and is a quieter alternative.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** This stage is in Upper Austria, where the municipalities regulate camping outside of campsites in different ways; on car parks and on the Danube embankment it is usually excluded. Car parks at the memorial, the castle and the Danube embankment are for day visits only.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Visit the memorial early in the day, before tour groups arrive; the memorial has its own car park, so clarify the size and access for motorhomes in advance. There is no expressway in the Strudengau: be patient with cyclists and use the lay-bys.

### Stage 3: Grein to Melk (approx. 55 km)

- **The drive:** Onward through the Nibelungengau: on the north bank via Persenbeug and Marbach, on the south bank via Ybbs and Pöchlarn to Melk; the Danube is crossed at Ybbs-Persenbeug or Melk. The roads are wide but slow because of the villages you pass through; the Ybbs-Persenbeug and Melk hydroelectric power stations shape the river. About 1.25 hours of driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Persenbeug Castle, birthplace of Emperor Charles I, high above the river.
  - Ybbs: old town and Danube promenade, a stopover with a cycle path.
  - Melk Abbey: the Baroque Benedictine abbey on its rock, with abbey garden and library.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Campingplatz Melk lies on the Danube with a view of the abbey, with electricity, fresh water and waste disposal, and sanitary facilities; there is a cycle and footpath to the old town. In Ardagger Markt there is also a motorhome pitch with service facilities.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In and around Melk, overnighting on car parks is not permitted; Lower Austria bans camping outside of campsites in general. The car parks at the abbey are day car parks; check height restrictions beforehand.
- **Insider tip for campers:** From March to October, Melk Abbey is the main draw for the Wachau coaches: it is better to visit early or in the late afternoon. Leave the motorhome at the campsite and walk the roughly one and a half kilometres or go by bike.

### Stage 4: Melk to Krems an der Donau (through the Wachau) (approx. 45 km)

- **The drive:** From Melk through the UNESCO World Heritage landscape: on the south bank (B33) via Schönbühel and Rossatz, on the north bank (B3) via Aggsbach, Willendorf, Spitz, Weißenkirchen and Dürnstein; at Mautern and Krems, bridges switch you to the other side. The road is winding, the roads through the villages are narrow, and in summer and at apricot blossom time it gets crowded. A good hour of driving time, but with breaks it is really half a day.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Aggstein ruins on the rock above the river, with a short climb on foot.
  - Spitz: the Tausendeimerberg terraced vineyard and the Spitz–Arnsdorf cable ferry.
  - Dürnstein: the blue abbey tower landmark and the castle path to the ruins where Richard the Lionheart is said to have been held prisoner.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Wachau Camping Schönbühel lies on the south bank of the Danube with electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal. Campingplatz Rossatz is an alternative on the south bank; Wohnmobilcamping Artner in Rossatz and the Weingut Hutter in Mautern have small pitches. Aggsbach Markt has a motorhome pitch; check facilities and season for each site beforehand.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Wachau, Lower Austrian laws apply: camping outside of campsites is generally prohibited, and the World Heritage municipalities carry out checks. Wineries that offer pitches are the legal route – usually with a Heuriger evening.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Drive the Wachau on a weekday if you can, and before 10 am; on the B3 you share the road with coaches and cycling groups. Before driving through villages such as Dürnstein and Weißenkirchen, check width and length restrictions. The apricot blossom (from the end of March) and the grape harvest in September and October are peak season – book early.

### Stage 5: Krems an der Donau to Vienna (via Tulln and Klosterneuburg) (approx. 80 km)

- **The drive:** From Krems via Traismauer and Tulln across the Tullnerfeld, then past the Vienna Woods to Klosterneuburg and into the city. Well-built main roads and an expressway (note the vignette), with denser traffic only around Vienna. About 1.5 hours of driving time without city traffic.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Krems-Stein: the Kunstmeile, old town with the Steiner Tor, and wine town.
  - Klosterneuburg Abbey, an Augustinian canons’ abbey with wine-growing and the Verdun Altar.
  - The Viennese Heuriger villages on the Kahlenberg and in Nussdorf, with a view of the Danube and the city.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Donaupark Camping Tulln (a large, flat site on the Danube) or Donaupark Camping Klosterneuburg on the edge of the city, with electricity, sanitary facilities and bus and rail links to Vienna. In Vienna itself there are MICAMPA Wien Donau and MICAMPA Wien Wienerwald (campsites) and the large Reisemobil-Stellplatz Wien in the south of the city with service facilities; booking recommended.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Vienna, camping outside of campsites is generally prohibited; city car parks are not meant for overnight stays either. Park-and-ride garages in particular have height restrictions for motorhomes.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Leave the motorhome at the campsite and take public transport into the city; day tickets from Wiener Linien are worth it. Fill up on water and empty your waste before the city (Tulln, Klosterneuburg). Plan more than one day in Vienna: St Stephen’s Cathedral, Schönbrunn, the Naschmarkt and the Prater easily fill two.

### Stage 6: Vienna to Podersdorf am See (approx. 70 km)

- **The drive:** From Vienna on the A4 Ostautobahn towards the airport and Parndorf, then on the regional road via Neusiedl am See to the east shore of the lake at Podersdorf. The transition from the Vienna Woods and the city to the open expanse of the Pannonian Plain is clearly noticeable, and wind turbines line the route. About 1 to 1.25 hours of driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Neusiedl am See: town centre, Tabor ruins and the harbour on the reed belt.
  - Podersdorf: lighthouse, lakeside promenade and the beach, known for surfers and kitesurfers.
  - Cycle path around Lake Neusiedl: sections can be ridden by bike from Podersdorf.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Strandcamping Podersdorf am See lies right on the shore with electricity, fresh water and waste disposal, and sanitary facilities; the season is geared to the warm months. In Podersdorf, the wineries Sloboda, Schaller and Fettl offer small motorhome pitches; ask about facilities in advance. In Neusiedl am See there is also a municipal motorhome pitch.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Burgenland prohibits camping in open countryside outside of approved sites (Camping- und Mobilheimplatzgesetz, Naturschutzgesetz), and also leaving motorhomes parked there; only short-term parking on car parks is permitted. The Podersdorf lakeshore and the dykes are not pitches.
- **Insider tip for campers:** In Podersdorf the wind is often strong: bring in the awning and have wedges ready for the run-up area. Gelsen (mosquitoes) are numerous by the reeds – pack fly screens and mosquito repellent. In high summer and at weekends, book early.

### Stage 7: Podersdorf am See to Podersdorf am See (Illmitz and the Seewinkel) (approx. 45 km)

- **The drive:** Round trip through the Seewinkel: Podersdorf – Illmitz – Apetlon – back on minor roads. Flat and dead straight, with farm tracks that are often open only to cyclists and walkers. A good hour of driving; the rest is observing and walking.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Neusiedler See – Seewinkel National Park (since 1993): salt pans, reeds and steppe, home to greylag geese, spoonbills, great egrets and many migratory birds; cranes rest here in autumn.
  - Lange Lacke near Illmitz: one of the best-known salt pans in the area, with observation points.
  - National park information centre in Illmitz with an exhibition and ranger-led tours.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** A second night in Podersdorf, or the Strommer Wohnmobilstellplatz in Illmitz (service facilities, electricity, sanitary facilities). Camping Paula in Frauenkirchen is another site in the Seewinkel, open only in the warm season.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the national park, leaving the paths outside the visitor zones is prohibited, and camping, fires and vehicles off the roads are banned; ask the national park in advance about rules for dogs. The Burgenland legal position (camping only on approved sites) applies here too.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The best observation times are morning and early evening; binoculars are the most important piece of equipment. In summer the salt pans partly dry out, and the water level varies from year to year – ask at the information centre where birds can currently be seen. Do not drive the motorhome on the farm tracks, even if the way seems open.

### Stage 8: Podersdorf am See to Mörbisch am See (via Rust) (approx. 60 km)

- **The drive:** Around the northern tip of the lake via Neusiedl am See, Breitenbrunn, Purbach and Donnerskirchen to Rust and Mörbisch. A well-built country road through wine villages, with plenty of cycle traffic and excursion coaches in summer. About 1.25 hours without breaks.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Rust: free city on the lake with stork nests on the roofs, Ruster Ausbruch wine and old town, part of the Fertő/Neusiedler See World Heritage site.
  - Purbach and Donnerskirchen: wine villages with cellar lanes and Heurigen.
  - Mörbisch am See: lake stage (summer festival) and jetties into the reeds.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Storchencamp Rust at the Seebad, with electricity, fresh water and waste disposal, and sanitary facilities; in Mörbisch, CamÖ offers a site with electricity and water. Storchencamp Purbach and Campingplatz Sonnenwaldbad in Donnerskirchen are further options; check season and opening times in advance.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Rust and Mörbisch border on a nature conservation and World Heritage zone; wild camping is prohibited under Burgenland law, including on car parks by the lake.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Rust is overcrowded at weekends and during the grape harvest; come early or cycle over from Mörbisch. Return journey: Eisenstadt and the A3/A2 towards Vienna.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- Austrian law is a matter for the federal states: in Vienna and Lower Austria, camping outside of campsites is generally prohibited, while in Upper Austria the municipalities decide. In Burgenland, camping in open countryside outside of approved sites is prohibited, as is leaving motorhomes parked there; short-term parking on car parks is permitted (as of the oesterreich.gv.at page, March 2026).
- Distinguish between parking and camping: chairs, a table, an awning, extended stabilisers or grilling count as camping. Sleeping in the vehicle is not allowed everywhere just because nothing is set up – observe local and state law.
- In the Neusiedler See – Seewinkel National Park, the Fertő/Neusiedler See World Heritage zone and nature reserves, fines of up to several thousand euros are possible; the ÖAMTC cites up to 14,500 euros for protected areas.
- Legal alternatives are campsites, municipal pitches and wineries. Farm-pitch programmes such as “Schau aufs Land”, Landvergnügen and Nomady allow one night with winegrowers. Apps: park4night, Campercontact, Stellplatzführer.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Service facilities (fresh water and waste disposal) are available at most campsites and at municipal pitches such as Melk, Ardagger, Aggsbach, Neusiedl and Vienna; some stations can only be used by guests, others work with coins or a card.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at disposal stations, not into street drains or vineyards. Tap water in Austria is generally drinking water.
- Gas: Austrian and German exchange cylinders are not always compatible; Campingaz is widespread. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks can be filled at LPG filling stations with a suitable adapter (Dish, ACME, Euro); not every station has all the connections. Arrive with two full cylinders.
- Check the facilities and season of each site beforehand, especially in Burgenland, where many sites are open only from April to October.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t, motorway 130 km/h, country road 100 km/h, built-up areas 50 km/h. With a trailer the limit depends on registration and gross weight (70 to 100 km/h); check the registration certificate. Above 3.5 t, the motorway limit is 80 and the country road limit 70 km/h. Check the current position before you travel.
- Tolls: for motorways and expressways up to 3.5 t you need the vignette (digital or sticker; digital also available for 1 day; 10 days, 2 months, a year). Above 3.5 t: GO toll with a GO-Box, charged by distance. The B3 and B130 need no vignette. The digital annual and 2-month vignette is valid only 18 days later when bought online, unless you actively waive the right of withdrawal; the 1-day and 10-day vignettes are valid immediately. Check current prices in the ASFINAG shop.
- Low-emission zones: a sticker requirement like in German low-emission zones is not known on this route. In places, speed limits apply on motorways under the Immissionsschutzgesetz Luft (IG-L). Check the current position before the trip.
- Vienna: short-term parking zones apply across the whole city, usually Monday to Friday 9 am to 10 pm (public holidays excepted), with parking vouchers or mobile parking, maximum stay usually two hours; without a Viennese Parkpickerl there is no right to long-term parking. The first district is largely traffic-calmed. Motorhomes belong on campsites.
- Dimensions: height 4.00 m, width 2.55 m, length of a single vehicle 12 m, combination 18.75 m. Winter equipment applies from 1 November to 15 April as the situation requires, in snow, slush and ice. Alcohol limit 0.5 per mille, mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Bicycles or e-bikes with a rear carrier and lock – the Danube Cycle Path and the Lake Neusiedl cycle path are the real roads of this route.
- Binoculars and a bird guide for the Seewinkel and the Danube floodplains – the national park lives on sightings, not on paths.
- Mosquito repellent, fly screens and insect spray against Gelsen by the reeds and on the Danube.
- Gas adapter set (Dish, ACME, Euro) and two full cylinders for LPG and refillable cylinders.
- A wind-resistant awning, storm straps and wedges: the Pannonian wind in Podersdorf sends chairs flying.
- Digital vignette bought in good time before the trip and number plate checked, plus Vienna day tickets.

_As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Sources

- [Bundesland Burgenland – Burgenländisches Nationalparkgesetz (Bgld. NPG 2026), § 5 Betreten der Zonen](https://gesetzefinden.at/landesrecht/landesgesetze/bgld-npg-2026_2)
- [Oberösterreich Tourismus – KZ-Gedenkstätte Mauthausen (Anreise, Öffnungszeiten)](https://www.oberoesterreich.at/oesterreich-poi/detail/400933/kz-gedenkstaette-mauthausen-memorial.html)
- [ADAC – Mit dem Fahrzeug in Österreich: Tempolimits](https://www.adac.de/reise-freizeit/reiseplanung/reiseziele/oesterreich/uebersicht/tempolimits/)
- [ASFINAG – Vignette](https://www.asfinag.at/en/toll/vignette/)
- [Vienna.at – Vignette 2026: So viel kostet das Pickerl](https://www.vienna.at/vignette-2026-so-viel-kostet-das-pickerl-fuers-naechste-jahr/9785300)
- [Wandern und mehr – Kurzparkzone in Wien (Zeiten, Höchstdauer)](https://www.wandernundmehr.at/faq/wie-erkenne-ich-eine-kurzparkzone-in-wien)
- [Campercontact – Camping-Paula, Frauenkirchen](https://www.campercontact.com/en/austria/burgenland/frauenkirchen/156741/camping-paula)
- [promobil – Stellplatz am Weingut Sloboda, Podersdorf am See](https://www.promobil.de/stellplatz/stellplatz-am-weingut-sloboda-588f1e2e721d54a52815ed75.html)
- [promobil – Wohnmobilstellplatz beim Weingut Schaller, Podersdorf am See](https://www.promobil.de/stellplatz/wohnmobilstellplatz-beim-weingut-schaller-588f1dc3721d54a52815e039.html)
- [OpenStreetMap-Auszug (data/osm/camps/AT.json, DE.json) – Camps und Stellplätze](https://www.openstreetmap.org/)

## Stop-by-stop itinerary

1. **Passau** (Germany)
2. **Schlögen** (Austria)
3. **Linz** (Austria)
4. **Mauthausen** (Austria)
5. **Grein** (Austria)
6. **Melk** (Austria)
7. **Spitz** (Austria)
8. **Dürnstein** (Austria)
9. **Krems an der Donau** (Austria)
10. **Vienna** (Austria)
11. **Podersdorf am See** (Austria)
12. **Illmitz** (Austria)
13. **Rust** (Austria)
14. **Mörbisch am See** (Austria)

## Best time to go

The most pleasant months are usually May–September. Still fine, with some compromises, in October. Cold, short days in December–February. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## Practical notes for the road

- **Germany: No motorway tolls for cars.** No general motorway speed limit (130 km/h advised) and no tolls for cars.
- **Austria: Vignette needed for motorways.** Vehicles over 3.5 t need a GO-Box for distance-based tolls. Motorway limit for cars: 130 km/h.

## FAQs

**How long is Strudengau, apricot blossom and a sea of reeds – by motorhome from Passau through the Wachau and Vienna to Lake Neusiedl?**
8-day road trip of about 400 km (248 mi) with 14 stops, from Passau to Mörbisch am See. About 5 h 31 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Strudengau, apricot blossom and a sea of reeds – by motorhome from Passau through the Wachau and Vienna to Lake Neusiedl?**
We suggest 8 days: about 5 h 31 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Strudengau, apricot blossom and a sea of reeds – by motorhome from Passau through the Wachau and Vienna to Lake Neusiedl start and end?**
It starts in Passau and ends in Mörbisch am See.

**Which countries does Strudengau, apricot blossom and a sea of reeds – by motorhome from Passau through the Wachau and Vienna to Lake Neusiedl pass through?**
Germany and Austria.

**Where can you camp along Strudengau, apricot blossom and a sea of reeds – by motorhome from Passau through the Wachau and Vienna to Lake Neusiedl?**
OpenStreetMap lists 98 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Zeltplatz Passau, Camping Pumberger and Hofmühle.

**When is the best time for Strudengau, apricot blossom and a sea of reeds – by motorhome from Passau through the Wachau and Vienna to Lake Neusiedl?**
The most pleasant months are usually May–September. Still fine, with some compromises, in October. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)