# Ice fields, hairpins and warm lakes: by motorhome over the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, through East Tyrol and Carinthia

> From Zell am See over the Hochtor to Heiligenblut, through East Tyrol past Lienz to Lake Millstatt, the Nockalm Road, Lake Ossiach and Wörthersee: around…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-248-grossglockner-hohe-tauern-kaernten/

**At a glance:** 7-day round trip of about 427 km (265 mi) with 14 stops, starting and ending in Zell am See. About 5 h 54 min of driving in total. From Zell am See over the Hochtor to Heiligenblut, through East Tyrol past Lienz to Lake Millstatt, the Nockalm Road, Lake Ossiach and Wörthersee: around 700 kilometres from the edge of a glacier to a lakeside bay.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | 427 km (265 mi) |
| Driving | 5 h 54 min |
| Suggested days | 7 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Zell am See → Zell am See |
| Countries | Austria |
| Updated | September 1, 2026 |

*From Zell am See over the Hochtor to Heiligenblut, through East Tyrol past Lienz to Lake Millstatt, the Nockalm Road, Lake Ossiach and Wörthersee: around 700 kilometres from the edge of a glacier to a lakeside bay.*

## The spirit of the route

The Grossglockner High Alpine Road is the main axis of this trip, and it is worth every gear change. Beyond Bruck the road climbs through spruce forest, then through alpine pastures, until only rock, firn and wind are left at the top. At the Fuscher Törl the marmots whistle, at the Franz-Josefs-Höhe the Pasterze lies as a dirty-white ribbon beneath Austria’s highest mountain, and the moment you step out, mountain air with a smell of snow hits you. On the south side it gets warmer with every kilometre: East Tyrol smells of larch wood and hay, in Carinthia the water turns turquoise, and the evenings grow long and mild. In between lie the Nock Mountains with their round, grassy summits, the lakes from Millstatt to Velden, and villages where Kaiserschmarrn and Carinthian Kasnudeln still come straight from the home oven. Here a motorhome is more than a means of transport: morning coffee on a pitch above the lake is the real destination.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Zell am See to Heiligenblut (approx. 80 km)

- **The drive:** From Zell am See take the B311 to Bruck and on via Fusch to Ferleiten, where the toll booth of the Grossglockner High Alpine Road (B107) stands. The High Alpine Road is 48 km long with 36 hairpins and leads over the Fuscher Törl and the Hochtor summit (just over 2,500 m) and down to Heiligenblut. Gradients reach 12%, and the road is wide and well kept, but there is oncoming traffic in the hairpins and plenty of motorcycles. Pure driving time is around 2 to 3 hours; with stops, count on a full day. The road is open in daytime only; in autumn 2025, from 1 September, hours were roughly 6 am to 7:30 pm, with the last entry 45 minutes before closing (check the 2026 times at grossglockner.at). The season usually runs from late April/early May to late October or early November, depending on snow. In October the road can close at short notice when it snows: check the closing date and weather conditions at grossglockner.at beforehand.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Fuscher Lacke and Edelweißspitze: a spur road to the highest point on the route that you can drive to, at just over 2,500 m, with a 360-degree view of more than 30 peaks above 3,000 m.
  - Hochtor tunnel and summit at the Hochtor (2,504 m): the highest point of the main route (the Edelweißspitze via the spur road is higher still), with a car park and short paths onto the meadows.
  - Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe with views of the Grossglockner and the Pasterze, the Gamsgrube, the waterfall trail and the marmot hill. The car park is extensive; the glacier trail to the glacier tongue takes a good hour.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** To start, Seecamp Zell am See or Sportcamp Woferlgut in Bruck, both with electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal. At your destination, Heiligenblut, the Nationalpark Camping Großglockner lies below the village, quiet and with mountain views, with electricity and sanitary facilities; check opening times and book a pitch in advance in high summer.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Overnighting in a vehicle is not permitted anywhere along the High Alpine Road: the road is closed at night (the car parks at the top are cleared before closing), and the Hohe Tauern is a national park. In Heiligenblut, too, the car parks are meant for day visitors. The Salzburg camping act regulates camping outside approved sites; tourist towns such as Zell am See are patrolled, so ask the municipality for details.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Fill up beforehand in Zell am See or Bruck: there is no filling station and no waste disposal on the High Alpine Road. Set off early, when the car parks are still empty and oncoming traffic is rare. Drive downhill in a low gear and do not let the brakes overheat. The toll is payable per trip before the toll booth and, for cars and motorhomes up to 3.5 t, is €46.50 for the day ticket according to ACE (as of January 2026); a supplement for day 2, multi-day tickets and season passes are also available. Vehicles over 3.5 t pay a separate tariff. Before departure, check the current tariff and the access and length restrictions for large vehicles at grossglockner.at.

### Stage 2: Heiligenblut to Lienz (East Tyrol) (approx. 80 km)

- **The drive:** First, from Heiligenblut take the Gletscherstraße (a spur of the toll-charging High Alpine Road) 8 km up to the Franz-Josefs-Höhe (if you have not already been there in stage 1) and back, then take the B107 down to Winklern and over the Iselsberg (around 1,200 m), with double-digit gradients, to Lienz. The Iselsberg road is well built but steep; use a low gear going downhill. Allow a good 1.5 hours of driving without detours.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Parish church of St Vinzenz in Heiligenblut: the Gothic pointed church in front of the Grossglockner is one of the best-known views in the Alps; it is a few minutes’ walk from the car park.
  - Schloss Bruck in Lienz: the town museum above the Isel, with views of the Lienz Dolomites.
  - Roman town of Aguntum in Dölsach: excavations of a Roman town with a museum, a few kilometres before Lienz.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Comfort Camping Falken in Lienz, close to the town, with electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; alternatively Dolomiten Camping Amlacherhof in Tristach, east of the town, quietly on the hillside with views of the Lienz Dolomites. Reserve both sites in good time in high summer; check opening times and season beforehand.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In East Tyrol the Tyrolean Camping Act applies: camping outside approved sites is generally not allowed, and parking in public places for rest is regulated differently from one municipality to the next. Additional restrictions apply in the Hohe Tauern National Park. Around Lienz, too, hiking car parks are not motorhome sites; where signs ban motorhomes, they mean it literally.
- **Insider tip for campers:** From Lienz there are two good detours: the Virgental with its waterfalls, and the Kalser Tal towards the Lucknerhaus with a view of the Grossglockner (a toll-charging spur road; check the tariff and motorhome access beforehand). Lienz itself is the starting point for the Felbertauern road back to Mittersill; the tunnel is a toll road (single journey for vehicles up to 3.5 t €13.50 according to ACE as of January 2026; check the current tariff).

### Stage 3: Lienz to Lake Millstatt (Seeboden) (approx. 85 km)

- **The drive:** Take the B100 through the Drau valley via Oberdrauburg, Greifenburg and Spittal an der Drau, then on to Seeboden at the northern end of Lake Millstatt. A broad, well-built main road with only a few narrow points in the villages; the landscape changes from larch-covered slopes to orchards and lakeland. A good 1.5 hours of driving. At the Gailbergsattel (south of Oberdrauburg) you can take an alternative via the Gail valley, but the B111 is narrower and time-consuming for long vehicles.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Schloss Porcia in Spittal an der Drau: a Renaissance castle with an arcaded courtyard, the venue for festival performances in summer.
  - Stift Millstatt above the lakeshore: cloister with Romanesque sculptures and the abbey church.
  - Millstatt lakeside promenade with a view across the lake; swimming in Seeboden or Döbriach.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Gold Camping Seeboden on the lake, with electricity, sanitary facilities, fresh water and waste disposal, and its own lake access, or Seecamping Mössler in Döbriach on the eastern shore. All sites on Lake Millstatt are very busy in July and August; book early. Between September and May many sites reduce their opening hours and services.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Carinthia, camping and leaving caravans in open countryside are prohibited under the Carinthian Nature Conservation Act (an administrative offence); only licensed campsites are permitted. Daytime parking is allowed; overnighting in a motorhome in public car parks and lakeside car parks is regulated by the municipalities and, depending on the place, strictly enforced. On Lake Millstatt the chances of being tolerated are slim; plan on proper sites.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Plan a shopping stop in Spittal: the supermarkets on the edge of town are large and have motorhome parking, and food is cheaper here than in the lakeside resorts. The lake is warm in summer but deep; observe the signs about diving bans and bathing zones.

### Stage 4: Lake Millstatt to Lake Millstatt (Nockalm Road, round trip) (approx. 130 km)

- **The drive:** From Seeboden via Radenthein and Bad Kleinkirchheim to Ebene Reichenau, where the toll booth of the Nockalm Road stands. 34 km with 52 hairpins through the Nockberge Biosphere Park, highest point Eisentalhöhe at just over 2,040 m, as far as Innerkrems; on to Kremsbrücke on the Katschberg road and back to Seeboden via Gmünd. The road is well built but full of hairpins; motorcycles ride in groups in summer. Around 3.5 hours of pure driving time, a day trip. The season runs roughly from early May to late October, daily in daytime only (according to Auto Revue 2024, about 8 am to 6 pm; check the 2026 times with the operator); snowfall in October can close it early. The loop can also be driven in the opposite direction.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Eisentalhöhe with a wide view over the rounded Nock Mountains, and on clear days as far as the Hohe Tauern.
  - Karlbad and Windebensee: short walks to alpine lakes, plus mountain inns serving Carinthian Kasnudeln and buttermilk.
  - The thermal baths of Bad Kleinkirchheim (St. Kathrein and Römerbad) to wind down after the drive.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** A second night on the same site on Lake Millstatt. If you would rather stay at the foot of the Nock Mountains, there are campsites near Radenthein and Bad Kleinkirchheim with differing seasons; ask about opening times in advance.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Overnighting is not permitted on the Nockalm Road; the car parks lie within the biosphere park. Wild camping at the roadside or at the alpine pastures is prohibited under the Carinthian Nature Conservation Act.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The Nockalm Road is overcrowded in high season; come early in the morning or in the late afternoon in the shoulder season. Motorhomes and combinations up to 3.5 t pay the car tariff (day ticket €25 according to ACE as of January 2026; check the current tariff with the operator), heavier vehicles a higher rate. The road is sometimes closed after storms or landslides (access via Innerkrems or Kremsbrücke depending on the situation). Ask about current closures before setting off; fill up in Radenthein or Gmünd, as there is no filling station on the road itself.

### Stage 5: Lake Millstatt to Velden am Wörthersee (via Lake Ossiach and the Gerlitzen) (approx. 85 km)

- **The drive:** From Seeboden via Spittal to Villach, then along the north shore of Lake Ossiach via Annenheim and Ossiach. From Annenheim the toll-charging Gerlitzen Alpine Road leads up to the Gerlitzen from Treffen (cars last cost €10 according to the municipality of Treffen); it can be closed in heavy snowfall. Ask the operator beforehand about the tariff for motorhomes and access for longer vehicles. Cable cars run as an alternative. Afterwards continue via Villach and the B83 to Velden am Wörthersee. Between Ossiach and Velden it is about 35 km through rolling hills. In total a good 2 hours of driving without detours.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Gerlitzen: a viewpoint mountain with views of Lake Ossiach, the Karawanks and the Hohe Tauern, reached either by the Alpine Road or by the Kanzelbahn from Annenheim or the Gipfelbahn from Bodensdorf.
  - Stift Ossiach on the lakeshore, known for the Carinthian Summer festival; a short stroll along the shore.
  - Landskron castle ruin near Villach with a bird-of-prey show and views over Lake Ossiach.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** There are several lakeside campsites on Lake Ossiach, including Terrassencamping Ossiacher See and Seecamping Hoffmann near Steindorf. In Velden the Rast-Stellplatz Velden am Wörthersee is available for motorhomes; check facilities, length of stay and season beforehand. The campsites on Wörthersee lie mainly on the south and east shores.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** On Lake Ossiach and Wörthersee, camping outside designated sites is prohibited, and the lakeside municipalities carry out checks in season. Lakeside car parks often charge a fee, some with a night-time ban. If you are only coming to swim, it is best to park on the edge of the village.
- **Insider tip for campers:** On Lake Ossiach and Wörthersee there are cycle paths around the lake; it is worth bringing bikes, because the lakeside roads move slowly in summer. Fill up with fuel and water in Villach; prices are considerably higher in the lakeside resorts.

### Stage 6: Velden am Wörthersee to Klagenfurt am Wörthersee (approx. 50 km)

- **The drive:** Along the south shore of Wörthersee via Maria Wörth to Reifnitz and Klagenfurt; a detour leads to the Pyramidenkogel near Keutschach. Narrow village roads and heavy traffic in summer; the south-shore road is narrow in places. Around 1.5 hours of driving without stops.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Maria Wörth peninsula with the two churches on the rock, reachable on foot from the car park.
  - Pyramidenkogel: the 100 m high wooden observation tower near Keutschach with views over the lake and the Karawanks.
  - Klagenfurt: the Lindwurm fountain, Neuer Platz and Landhaushof, plus the lakeside promenade and the lido.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Campingplatz Klagenfurt am Wörthersee on the lakeshore (Metnitzstrand) with electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; check season and prices beforehand. Near Klagenfurt there are also smaller sites in the surrounding area.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the city of Klagenfurt and in the lakeside resorts, overnighting outside campsites is not permitted. Motorhomes park in the car parks by the lake during the day; in the evening you should move to the campsite.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Avoid Klagenfurt centre in a motorhome and take a bike or bus from the campsite. Multi-storey car parks have height limits. On Wörthersee in high summer it is better to start early, as traffic stalls from midday.

### Stage 7: Klagenfurt to Zell am See (approx. 190 km)

- **The drive:** From Klagenfurt take the A2 to Villach, then the A10 Tauern Autobahn via Spittal, the Katschberg Tunnel and the Tauern Tunnel north to Flachau and Eben, then to Bischofshofen and back to Zell am See via the B311 Pinzgauer Straße. The A10 has many tunnels; the Tauern and Katschberg tunnels are subject to a special toll in addition to the vignette. A good 2.5 to 3 hours of driving; on Saturdays and Sundays in summer there is a risk of tailbacks before the tunnel portals.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Liechtensteinklamm near St. Johann im Pongau: a deep gorge with wooden walkways, about an hour’s circuit.
  - Kitzlochklamm near Taxenbach: a gorge path to the waterfall, open from May to October (check times beforehand).
  - Zell am See: promenade by the lake, Schmittenhöhe cable car with a panorama over the Zeller See.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Back in Zell am See at Seecamp Zell am See, the site you started from; alternatively the Sportcamp Woferlgut in Bruck. In cool weather in October or later, many sites have only limited opening; call before arriving.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Zell am See and in the Pinzgau, overnighting in public car parks is not permitted under Salzburg law and local rules; short-term parking to visit sights is possible. Plan the last night on a campsite.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Buy the vignette before setting off and check when its validity begins. If you want to save the tunnel toll, you can instead drive over the Katschberghöhe (B99) and the Radstädter Tauern (B99), but expect a considerably longer journey time. Fill up in Bischofshofen.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- In Austria the federal states regulate camping themselves: Salzburg, Tyrol (East Tyrol) and Carinthia generally prohibit camping outside approved sites; exceptions are narrowly limited (such as a one-off bivouac in the mountains). In Carinthia this is regulated in the Nature Conservation Act, in Tyrol in the Tyrolean Camping Act. Parking a motorhome for rest is regulated by municipality and is strictly enforced in tourist towns such as Zell am See, on Lake Millstatt and on Wörthersee.
- In the Hohe Tauern National Park (Salzburg, Carinthia, Tyrol) and in the biosphere parks (Nockberge), overnighting in a vehicle and camping outside the sites are prohibited. Fines can be substantial; the amount depends on the state and the offence.
- Legal options: campsites, motorhome stopovers such as the Rast-Stellplatz in Velden, and pitches at farms and inns. Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact, plus the websites of the tourism associations.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Fresh water and waste disposal are available at most campsites and motorhome stopovers; there is no waste disposal along the High Alpine Road itself. Empty grey and black water at dump stations, not into drains or streams: heavy fines threaten in the national park.
- Tap water is drinkable almost everywhere in Austria; at huts and alpine pastures, not every spring is suitable for drinking water, so watch for signs.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Austria; the cylinders have different connections. Autogas (LPG) is available at many filling stations, and an adapter is needed. Arrive with two full cylinders and check refillable cylinders in advance.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- A vignette is required on motorways and expressways for vehicles up to 3.5 t: 10-day, 2-month and annual vignettes, as a digital vignette or a sticker. When buying a digital vignette, check the start of validity. Vehicles over 3.5 t pay the distance-based GO toll (GO-Box). In 2026 the 10-day vignette for cars costs €12.80, the 2-month vignette €32 and the annual vignette €106.80. The Grossglockner High Alpine Road, the Nockalm Road, the Felbertauern road and the tunnels of the A10 (Tauern and Katschberg tunnels) have their own separate section tolls in addition.
- Speed limits: cars and motorhomes up to 3.5 t 50 km/h in built-up areas, 100 outside them, 130 on the motorway; over 3.5 t 70 outside built-up areas and 80 km/h on the motorway. Combinations (car with caravan) drive at a maximum of 100 km/h on the motorway and slower outside built-up areas depending on weight and signage; check the limits in advance. On the A10 and A2, additional restrictions apply on some sections (IG-L, roadworks); observe the signs.
- Dimensions: vehicle height up to 4.0 m, width 2.55 m, length of motorhome 12 m, combination 18.75 m. For the High Alpine Road, the operator’s access and length restrictions apply (grossglockner.at); the hairpins are tight, and oncoming traffic is normal.
- Winter equipment is mandatory from 1 November to 15 April in wintry conditions (winter tyres, snow chains if necessary); even in autumn it can snow on the passes, and the High Alpine Road then closes without much warning.
- Alcohol: 0.5 per mille; mobile phones at the wheel only with a hands-free kit. Keep dogs on a lead in the national park and biosphere park; check the rules of the toll roads with the operator.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Snow chains and winter tyres for autumn: it can snow on the Hochtor in October, and the road then closes.
- Warm layers, a hat and gloves: at the Franz-Josefs-Höhe it is often only a few degrees, even in summer.
- Infrared thermometer for rims and brakes after the long descents from the Hochtor and the Nockalm Road.
- Binoculars for marmots, ibex and chamois at the Fuscher Törl and Franz-Josefs-Höhe.
- Coins and a card for the toll booths of the High Alpine Road, the Nockalm Road and the tunnels; print or save tickets and the vignette online in advance.

_As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Sources

- [ACE – Mautstrecken Österreich (Stand 01/2026)](https://ace.de/content/dam/ace/dokumente/reisen/mautstrecken-oesterreich.pdf)
- [Auto Revue – Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße: Maut & Öffnungszeiten 2025](https://autorevue.at/ratgeber/grossglockner-hochalpenstrasse)
- [Auto Revue – Nockalmstraße: Preise, Sperren, Öffnungszeiten](https://www.autorevue.at/ratgeber/nockalmstrasse)
- [Österreich Werbung – Großglockner Hochalpenstraße](https://www.austria.info/de-at/locations/grossglockner-hochalpenstrasse/)
- [Marktgemeinde Treffen / Visit Villach – Gerlitzen Mautstraße ab Treffen](https://www.visitvillach.at/en/treffen-am-ossiacher-see/info/gerlitzen-mautstrasse-ab-treffen.html)
- [oesterreich.gv.at – Campen in Kärnten](https://www.oesterreich.gv.at/de/themen/reisen_und_freizeit/freizeit-in-der-natur/campen/Seite.3390003)
- [oesterreich.gv.at – Campen in Tirol](https://www.oesterreich.gv.at/de/themen/reisen_und_freizeit/freizeit-in-der-natur/campen/Seite.3390007.html)
- [motorradundreisen.de – Vignetten-Preise 2026: Österreich erhöht](https://www.motorradundreisen.de/technik-ratgeber/vignetten-preise-2026-oesterreich-erhoeht-schweiz-slowenien/9910/)
- [motorradundreisen.de – Nockalmstraße (AK 25)](https://www.motorradundreisen.de/alpenpaesse/223_nockalmstrasse.html)

## Stop-by-stop itinerary

1. **Zell am See** (Austria)
2. **Bruck an der Großglocknerstraße** (Austria)
3. **Hochtor** (Austria)
4. **Heiligenblut** (Austria)
5. **Franz-Josefs-Höhe** (Austria)
6. **Lienz** (Austria)
7. **Millstatt** (Austria)
8. **Ebene Reichenau** (Austria)
9. **Gerlitzen** (Austria)
10. **Ossiach** (Austria)
11. **Velden am Wörthersee** (Austria)
12. **Maria Wörth** (Maria Wörth, Austria): Two churches on a small peninsula in the Wörthersee, one of Carinthia’s most photographed views. Parking is tight in summer, so arrive early.
13. **Klagenfurt am Wörthersee** (Austria)
14. **Zell am See** (Austria)

## Best time to go

The most pleasant months are usually June–September. Still fine, with some compromises, in May. Cold, short days in December–February. Mountain passes on this route are usually open May–October. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## Practical notes for the road

- **Austria: Vignette needed for motorways.** Vehicles over 3.5 t need a GO-Box for distance-based tolls. Motorway limit for cars: 130 km/h.
- **Großglockner-Hochalpenstraße (2,504 m).** Usually open May–October; outside that window the road can be closed by snow. Alternative: The Felbertauern tunnel is open all year.

## FAQs

**How long is Ice fields, hairpins and warm lakes: by motorhome over the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, through East Tyrol and Carinthia?**
7-day round trip of about 427 km (265 mi) with 14 stops, starting and ending in Zell am See. About 5 h 54 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Ice fields, hairpins and warm lakes: by motorhome over the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, through East Tyrol and Carinthia?**
We suggest 7 days: about 5 h 54 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Ice fields, hairpins and warm lakes: by motorhome over the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, through East Tyrol and Carinthia start and end?**
It is a round trip that starts and ends in Zell am See.

**Which countries does Ice fields, hairpins and warm lakes: by motorhome over the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, through East Tyrol and Carinthia pass through?**
Austria.

**Where can you camp along Ice fields, hairpins and warm lakes: by motorhome over the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, through East Tyrol and Carinthia?**
OpenStreetMap lists 106 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Panorama Camp, Sportcamp Woferlgut and Lampenhäusl Camping.

**When is the best time for Ice fields, hairpins and warm lakes: by motorhome over the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, through East Tyrol and Carinthia?**
The most pleasant months are usually June–September. Still fine, with some compromises, in May. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)