# Scent of Swiss stone pine, glacier streams and mountain hairpins – by camper through Graubünden and the Engadin to the Valtellina border

> From Chur over the Julier, Maloja and Ofen passes into the Val Müstair, over the Bernina to Poschiavo and back over the Albula: a good 500 kilometres…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-242-graubuenden-engadin/

**At a glance:** 8-day round trip of about 358 km (222 mi) with 14 stops, starting and ending in Chur. About 4 h 56 min of driving in total. From Chur over the Julier, Maloja and Ofen passes into the Val Müstair, over the Bernina to Poschiavo and back over the Albula: a good 500 kilometres through the land of three languages, where every pass has its own logic of bends.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | 358 km (222 mi) |
| Driving | 4 h 56 min |
| Suggested days | 8 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Chur → Chur |
| Countries | Switzerland, Italy |
| Updated | September 1, 2026 |

*From Chur over the Julier, Maloja and Ofen passes into the Val Müstair, over the Bernina to Poschiavo and back over the Albula: a good 500 kilometres through the land of three languages, where every pass has its own logic of bends.*

## The spirit of the route

Graubünden is a land of steps: the Rhine gorge, slate villages, then the passes that lead up into a high valley with a strangely clear light. In the Engadin the lakes lie like sheets of glass between larch woods, whitewashed houses with sgraffito and deep window recesses stand on the terraces, and in the villages you hear Romansh, German and Italian in a single sentence. From your sliding door you see mist over Lake Silvaplana in the morning, the Morteratsch Glacier in the afternoon and, in the evening, the Red Train creeping across viaducts above gorges. On the Ofen Pass the air smells of mountain pine, in the National Park marmots whistle, and beyond the Bernina the air changes within minutes to palms, chestnuts and espresso. This loop is small in scale and big in elevation profile – with time for hikes you won’t want to cut short.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Chur to Silvaplana (over the Julier Pass) (approx. 85 km)

- **The drive:** From Chur take the main road over Churwalden and down through the Lenzerheide to Tiefencastel, then through the Surses region with Savognin and Bivio up to the Julier Pass (around 2,280 m) and into the Upper Engadin. The road is well built but has many bends and climbs up to the pass; the Julier route is open all year, in winter only with chains or winter tyres. Around 2 hours of pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Old town of Chur with its cathedral and winding lanes, still quiet in the morning before you set off.
  - Heidsee at the Lenzerheide, a short stroll along the lakeside boardwalk.
  - Julier Pass: the remains of the Roman columns at the pass and the view down to Lake Silvaplana.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Silvaplana lies between the road and Lake Silvaplana, with electricity, sanitary facilities and service points; check the season and the number of motorhome pitches with the operator in advance. Alternatively Camping St. Moritz, around 5 km away. Before the start, Camp Au on the Rhine near Chur is an option; check motorhome pitches in advance.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Graubünden, wild camping is a matter for the municipalities, and in the Engadin overnighting in vehicles at passes, lakes and hiking car parks is increasingly checked and fined. Don’t count on free camping on the Julier, in Bivio or at Lake Silvaplana; for a stopover there is a small motorhome pitch at the ski lift (Tua) in Bivio with waste disposal; check facilities, pitches and price with the operator in advance.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Fill up with fuel in Chur or Tiefencastel before the climb; on the pass and Engadin side fuel and groceries are much more expensive. On the northern ramp of the Julier there are lay-bys for photo stops; drive downhill in a low gear, as the hairpins beyond Bivio are long.

### Stage 2: Silvaplana to Morteratsch (Pontresina) (approx. 55 km)

- **The drive:** First along Lake Silvaplana and Lake Sils to Sils and Maloja (around 1,800 m), then on to the top of the pass with a view of the Maloja hairpins down into the Bergell, and back via St. Moritz, Celerina and Pontresina into the Val Morteratsch. The road is wide in the Upper Engadin, narrow with oncoming traffic on the Maloja hairpins. About 1.5 hours of pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Maloja: the view from the top of the pass and the glacial potholes on the edge of the village.
  - Sils Maria and the Fex Valley: cars are banned in the rear of the valley, which you visit on foot or by horse-drawn carriage.
  - Morteratsch Glacier: glacier trail from the station, with markers showing the former extent of the ice.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Campingplatz Morteratsch at the valley entrance, with electricity, sanitary facilities and service points, open in summer only; the Bernina Railway passes nearby. Alternatives are TCS Camping Samedan near the river or Camping Gravatscha near Samedan.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Val Morteratsch and the Fex Valley, overnighting outside the campsites is not permitted. At Diavolezza and Lagalb there are motorhome pitches run by Campingplatz Morteratsch; ask there in advance about season, fees and conditions.
- **Insider tip for campers:** For the train ride from Pontresina, the chairlift or gondola operation and the Fex Valley carriages, check seats and tickets in advance in summer. In St. Moritz, parking a motorhome in the centre is scarce – better to leave it in Celerina or Pontresina and take the bus.

### Stage 3: Morteratsch to Zernez (approx. 55 km)

- **The drive:** Down the valley to Samedan, then on the main road in the Lower Engadin via Zuoz and S-chanf to Zernez. Well built, gentle gradients, a few villages with a 50 km/h limit. A good hour’s driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Zuoz: the old town with sgraffito façades and the typical Engadin house, a half-hour walk.
  - Banks of the Inn at S-chanf, a quiet cycle path that follows the river to Zernez.
  - Swiss National Park Centre in Zernez with an exhibition on Alpine fauna and tour advice.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Cul in Zernez on the edge of the village with electricity, sanitary facilities and service points; ask the operator in advance about opening times and space for motorhomes. For an earlier destination, Camping Chapella near S-chanf is an option, quiet on the Inn.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Swiss National Park overnighting is forbidden, even in a vehicle, and the rangers enforce the rule. At car parks on the Ofen Pass road such as Il Fuorn, “daytime parking only” applies – don’t stay overnight. On municipal car parks in Zernez and S-chanf overnighting in a motorhome is generally not permitted; follow the signs.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The National Park Centre books hikes and gives current trail conditions. Under the park rules, dogs are not allowed into the National Park, not even carried – if you have a dog, plan an alternative programme. There is no petrol station on the Ofen Pass, so fill up completely in Zernez.

### Stage 4: Zernez to Müstair (Val Müstair, over the Ofen Pass) (approx. 40 km)

- **The drive:** From Zernez through the Fuorn Valley on the Ofen Pass road through the National Park up to the Ofen Pass (around 2,150 m), then through Tschierv and Fuldera down into the Val Müstair as far as Müstair. Two lanes, with wide bends and gentle climbs, but shady in the forest and with game crossing the road. A good hour of pure driving time, half a day with stops.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Margunet and other National Park hikes from car parks on the pass road, with deer and marmots.
  - Santa Maria with its church and a view of the Umbrail Pass, a chance for a photo stop.
  - St. John’s Abbey in Müstair, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with Carolingian frescoes.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Pe da Munt in Santa Maria in the Val Müstair, a simple campsite with sanitary facilities; facilities – there are further sites and farm stays in the Val Müstair – ask the operator or the tourist office in advance about season and motorhome pitches.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the National Park bivouacking, fires and overnighting in car parks are forbidden; in the Val Müstair municipal and nature conservation rules apply, and free camping is not permitted. Do not stay overnight in the car parks on the Ofen Pass.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The Umbrail Pass to Italy is partly unpaved on the Swiss side and not recommended for motorhomes; the way back leads over the same Ofen Pass. If you want to skip the pass, take the PostBus and leave the camper in Zernez. Take water with you: there are no shops on the Ofen Pass.

### Stage 5: Müstair to Madulain (approx. 60 km)

- **The drive:** Back over the Ofen Pass to Zernez and on the main road in the Upper Engadin via Zuoz to Madulain. The same route as the day before in the opposite direction; the descent from the Ofen Pass to Zernez is long, followed by the wide valley road along the Inn. About 1 hour 15 minutes of driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Top of the Ofen Pass with its mountain pine forest; a short walk from the car park is worthwhile in the late-afternoon light.
  - Sgraffito house and village fountain in Madulain.
  - Walk along the Inn between Zuoz and Madulain.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Madulain with electricity, sanitary facilities and service points, quiet and away from the main road; book in good time in high summer. The site has off-season closing periods in spring and autumn (in 2024 roughly 21 October to 20 December), so check the opening dates for your travel date.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Upper Engadin there are no suitable places for free camping; overnighting on municipal car parks is mostly prohibited. During the day you can park in Zernez and Zuoz.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Buy groceries near Zuoz or Samedan: on the way to the Bernina there is no more supermarket, but in Poschiavo there are shops. On Saturdays, when holiday flats change over, traffic on the Engadin main road can be slow – drive early.

### Stage 6: Madulain to Poschiavo (over the Bernina Pass) (approx. 55 km)

- **The drive:** Via Samedan and Pontresina up to the Bernina Pass (around 2,330 m) with Lago Bianco, then in hairpins past Alp Grüm down to Poschiavo. The road follows the Bernina Railway, is open all year and can be closed in snow. A good 1.5 hours of driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Lago Bianco at the pass with its dam wall, the glaciers of Piz Palü on the left.
  - Alp Grüm: a break at the station with a view of the Palü Glacier and the Valposchiavo far below.
  - Poschiavo: the main square and the “Spanish Quarter” with its colourful palazzi.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Cavresc on Lago di Poschiavo near Le Prese, with sanitary facilities; ask in advance about electricity, waste disposal and season. Camping Boomerang is also on the lake; check facilities and motorhome pitches in advance. There is also a small motorhome pitch at the lake.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Valposchiavo the same line applies as in the Engadin: parking yes, camping no. Free camping at the lake is forbidden and checked; the pitches are small and fill up quickly in summer.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Italian is the everyday language here; prices are in francs, and cards are accepted almost everywhere. A trip on the Bernina Railway from Poschiavo to Tirano or Pontresina is worthwhile as a rest day without the camper.

### Stage 7: Poschiavo to Bergün (Tirano excursion, Albula Pass) (approx. 90 km)

- **The drive:** Optionally first on the valley road to Campocologno at the border and on to Tirano in the Valtellina (around 25 km, about 50 km extra there and back), then the same way back over the Bernina Pass to Samedan and La Punt and over the Albula Pass (around 2,315 m) to Bergün. The Albula is narrow, steep and twisty, parts without a centre line; according to the TCS the limits are 3.3 m height, 11 t and 12% gradient, and the TCS advises against driving it with a motorhome or caravan. If you are unsure, take the Julier instead. A good 3 hours of pure driving time, a long day with Tirano.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Brusio: the Bernina Railway’s circular viaduct, unique when a train passes through.
  - Tirano in the Valtellina: the pilgrimage church Madonna di Tirano and the station where the Bernina Railway ends.
  - Albula Pass: the top of the pass with a small lake and a view of the Graubünden mountains, railway educational trail Bergün–Preda.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Bergün there are small motorhome pitches; directories contradict one another on the number of pitches, electricity and season (one site lists only 4 pitches, open roughly 15 April to 13 November), so check with the tourist organisation in advance. Alternatively Camping Cumpogna in Tiefencastel at the foot of the Albula ramp.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Free camping is not permitted on the Albula, not even in pass car parks; the authorities are strict. In Tirano Italian rules apply (parking yes, camping no); traffic restrictions (ZTL) are possible for the old town, so follow the signs. The paid motorhome site on Via alla Polveriera is around 1 km from the centre.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Before setting off, check the pass status with the TCS or the Graubünden traffic information: the Albula is closed in winter (usually December to May); on individual Sundays passes are temporarily open to cyclists only, in 2026 on the Albula on 6 September from 10 am to 4 pm. Carry your passport or ID for crossing the border. In Italy other speed limits apply (outside built-up areas 90 km/h for motorhomes up to 3.5 t) and other rules on tolls and environmental zones.

### Stage 8: Bergün to Chur (approx. 75 km)

- **The drive:** From Bergün through the Albula Gorge to Filisur and Tiefencastel, then via Alvaschein and the Schin Gorge to Thusis, on past the Via Mala and through the Domleschg to Chur. A well built route, with bridges and short narrow sections in the Schin Gorge. Around 1.5 hours of driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Landwasser Viaduct near Filisur, 65 m high, a spot for train photos from the viewpoint.
  - Via Mala Gorge near Thusis, the gorge can be walked on footbridges.
  - Rhäzüns Castle and the Domleschg, the valley with the most castles in Switzerland.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camp Au in Chur on the Rhine as a finale (check motorhome pitches in advance), or TCS Camping Thusis Viamala. Check season and service points in advance.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Domleschg and the Chur Rhine Valley there is no tolerated free camping; use motorhome pitches and campsites.
- **Insider tip for campers:** To finish, in Chur plan water, waste disposal and diesel for the journey home; ask the campsite in advance about disposal facilities. A footpath leads to the Landwasser Viaduct from Filisur station; never step onto the railway tracks for photos.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- In Switzerland the cantons and municipalities regulate wild camping. Motorhomes may park where it is permitted, including overnight to rest; camping behaviour such as tables, chairs, awning or barbecuing can be fined. In the Engadin and the Valposchiavo, pass car parks and lakesides are often covered by prohibition signs.
- In the Swiss National Park bivouacking, fires and overnighting in car parks are forbidden, and dogs may not be taken in. The park administration punishes violations with fines; the rangers carry out checks.
- Legal alternatives are campsites (TCS, camping.ch), motorhome pitches and farm stays. Useful sources: park4night, Campercontact and camping.ch.
- In the Valtellina and near Tirano, Italy’s rules apply: parking yes, camping no; municipalities may have further bans.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Waste disposal and fresh water are available at most campsites and at some motorhome pitches, often for a fee; keep coins or a card ready. Empty the chemical toilet only at the disposal point, and never drain grey water in car parks.
- Tap water in Switzerland is drinking water; fountains are marked (watch for “Kein Trinkwasser”, not drinking water).
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped; Campingaz and propane are available at petrol stations and DIY stores. LPG stations are rare; fill refillable bottles beforehand and bring an adapter. Two full bottles on entering the country are the safe reserve.
- Diesel is more expensive in the Engadin than in the lowlands; fill up before Chur or in Zernez.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Motorway vignette (CHF 40, digital or sticker) for vehicles up to 3.5 t, valid from 1 December of the previous year to 31 January of the following year; trailers need their own. Without a vignette you risk a fine of CHF 200. Motorhomes over 3.5 t pay the LSVA (heavy vehicle charge) or the flat-rate PSVA, paid via the customs authority’s (BAZG) Via app; check the rate by weight and period in advance. This route runs mostly on country roads, but the vignette is still compulsory as soon as you drive onto a motorway.
- Dimensions: maximum 4.00 m height, 2.55 m width, 12 m length for single vehicles, 18.75 m for combinations; on narrow passes such as the Albula (according to the TCS 3.3 m height, 11 t) and the Ofen, watch dimensions and overhang.
- Speed limits: motorway 120 km/h (motorhome up to 3.5 t), expressway 100, country road 80, built-up area 50; motorhome over 3.5 t motorway 100; combination outside built-up areas 80, on motorway and expressway 80 (100 for a trailer up to 3.5 t, if the registration allows it). Dipped headlights are compulsory in daytime as well. 0.5 per mille alcohol limit, mobile phone only with a hands-free kit.
- Winter equipment: no general obligation, but in snow pass roads are closed or require chains or winter tyres; the Albula is closed in winter (usually December to May), Bernina, Julier, Ofen and Maloja are open all year and in snow can sometimes only be driven with chains or winter tyres. Summer tyres with M+S are permitted; chains belong on board in spring and autumn.
- Rear-mounted bike rack: number plate and lights must remain visible, and projecting loads must be marked. On individual Sundays Graubünden passes are temporarily open to cyclists only (2026 Albula on 6 September), check the dates. Carry ID for entering Italy.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Snow chains or textile chains (with a trial fitting before the trip) – snow can lie on the Julier, Bernina and Albula in spring and autumn.
- Warm clothing, a hat and a rain jacket for pass tops above 2,000 m, where frost is possible even in July.
- Binoculars for marmots, ibex and deer on the Ofen Pass and in the National Park.
- Hiking map or offline map for the National Park and Morteratsch, as the mobile network in the valleys is patchy.
- Spare gas bottle with adapter, as supply is thin in the Engadin.
- Brake fluid and brake pad check before the trip – the descents from the Julier, Bernina and Albula are long.

_As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Sources

- [Kanton Graubünden Tiefbauamt – Passstrassen erwachen aus dem Winterschlaf](https://www.gr.ch/DE/institutionen/verwaltung/diem/tba/aktuelles/Seiten/Passstrassen-erwachen-aus-dem-Winterschlaf.aspx)
- [TCS – Kleine Pässe Schweiz (Albula, Bernina, Julier: Status, Limits)](https://www.tcs.ch/de/tools/verkehrsinfo-verkehrslage/kleine-paesse-schweiz.php)
- [Bundesverwaltung ch.ch – Autobahnvignette](https://ch.ch/de/autobahnvignette)
- [BAZG – Pauschale Schwerverkehrsabgabe (PSVA) für im Ausland immatrikulierte Fahrzeuge](https://www.bazg.admin.ch/de/pauschale-schwerverkehrsabgabe-psva-fuer-im-ausland-immatrikulierte-fahrzeuge)
- [Kanton Graubünden – Verordnung über den Schweizerischen Nationalpark (BR 498.200)](https://gr.lexwork.naz.ch/de/dta/498.200.pdf)
- [TCS – Verkehrsregeln, Gesetze und Hinweise für Camper](https://www.tcs.ch/de/camping-reisen/camping-insider/ratgeber/sicheres-reisen/verkehrsregeln-gesetze-und-hinweise-fuer-camper.php)
- [ADAC – Tempolimits Schweiz](https://www.adac.de/reise-freizeit/reiseplanung/reiseziele/schweiz/uebersicht/tempolimits)
- [BIKE Magazin – Autofreie Passstrassen 2026, Albulapass (6. September 2026)](https://www.bike-magazin.de/touren/schweiz/autofreie-passstrassen-2026-20-jubilaeum-am-albulapass/)
- [Engadin St. Moritz – Camping Madulain (Öffnungszeiten)](https://www.engadin.stmoritz.ch/sommer/en/camping/camping-madulain/)
- [Graubünden Ferien – Camping Cul Zernez](https://www.app.graubuenden.ch/en/camping-cul-zernez)
- [stellplatz.info – Zops Bergün](https://stellplatz.info/wohnmobilstellplatz/zops-bergun)
- [camperonline.it – Area camper Tirano](https://www.camperonline.it/sosta-camper/aree-di-sosta/italia/lombardia/area-camper-tirano/1333)

## Stop-by-stop itinerary

1. **Chur** (Switzerland)
2. **Julierpass** (Switzerland)
3. **Silvaplana** (Switzerland)
4. **Maloja** (Switzerland)
5. **Pontresina** (Switzerland)
6. **Zernez** (Switzerland)
7. **Ofenpass** (Switzerland)
8. **Müstair** (Switzerland)
9. **Berninapass** (Switzerland)
10. **Poschiavo** (Switzerland)
11. **Tirano** (Italy)
12. **Albulapass** (Switzerland)
13. **Bergün** (Switzerland)
14. **Chur** (Switzerland)

## Best time to go

The most pleasant months are usually June–August. Still fine, with some compromises, in September. Cold, short days in November–March. Mountain passes on this route are usually open June–October. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## Practical notes for the road

- **Switzerland: Vignette needed for motorways.** Vehicles over 3.5 t pay the heavy vehicle charge instead of the vignette. Motorway limit for cars: 120 km/h.
- **Italy: Motorway tolls.** Tolls on most autostrade; pay at the barrier by card or cash. Motorway limit for cars: 130 km/h.
- **Passo dello Stelvio (2,757 m).** Usually open June–October; outside that window the road can be closed by snow. Alternative: Via the Reschen and Ofen passes, or the valley roads around it.

## FAQs

**How long is Scent of Swiss stone pine, glacier streams and mountain hairpins – by camper through Graubünden and the Engadin to the Valtellina border?**
8-day round trip of about 358 km (222 mi) with 14 stops, starting and ending in Chur. About 4 h 56 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Scent of Swiss stone pine, glacier streams and mountain hairpins – by camper through Graubünden and the Engadin to the Valtellina border?**
We suggest 8 days: about 4 h 56 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Scent of Swiss stone pine, glacier streams and mountain hairpins – by camper through Graubünden and the Engadin to the Valtellina border start and end?**
It is a round trip that starts and ends in Chur.

**Which countries does Scent of Swiss stone pine, glacier streams and mountain hairpins – by camper through Graubünden and the Engadin to the Valtellina border pass through?**
Switzerland and Italy.

**Where can you camp along Scent of Swiss stone pine, glacier streams and mountain hairpins – by camper through Graubünden and the Engadin to the Valtellina border?**
OpenStreetMap lists 101 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Camping Pradafenz, Camping Trin and Camping St. Moritz.

**When is the best time for Scent of Swiss stone pine, glacier streams and mountain hairpins – by camper through Graubünden and the Engadin to the Valtellina border?**
The most pleasant months are usually June–August. Still fine, with some compromises, in September. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)