# Puffins, gannets and fog at the cape: by camper along the Irish Loop and the Avalon Peninsula

> From St. John’s via Cape Spear, Witless Bay and Cape Race to the bird cliffs of Cape St. Mary’s: around 690 kilometres of coast, lighthouses and fishing…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-199-irish-loop-avalon-newfoundland/

**At a glance:** 6-day round trip of about 423 km (263 mi) with 11 stops, starting and ending in St. John’s. About 4 h 41 min of driving in total. From St. John’s via Cape Spear, Witless Bay and Cape Race to the bird cliffs of Cape St. Mary’s: around 690 kilometres of coast, lighthouses and fishing villages in south-eastern Newfoundland.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | 423 km (263 mi) |
| Driving | 4 h 41 min |
| Suggested days | 6 |
| Stops | 11 |
| Route | St. John’s → St. John’s |
| Provinces | NL |
| Updated | September 1, 2026 |

*From St. John’s via Cape Spear, Witless Bay and Cape Race to the bird cliffs of Cape St. Mary’s: around 690 kilometres of coast, lighthouses and fishing villages in south-eastern Newfoundland.*

## The spirit of the route

Newfoundland smells of salt, peat and diesel, and on the Avalon Peninsula it is strongest. Beyond St. John’s with its colourful wooden houses (“Jellybean Row”) the landscape turns bare and wide: bogs, low spruce, rocky coasts where the fog hangs like a curtain. The Irish Loop passes fishing villages where you can still hear an Irish accent, and ends at places where history happened by the water: Ferryland, Cape Race, Trepassey. From the sliding door you see icebergs in early summer, whales in July and puffins on the islands off Witless Bay. At Cape St. Mary’s thousands of gannets stand on the rock not an arm’s length away. The route is long, lonely and weather-dependent; if you allow for fog, wind and moose, you will experience one of the most impressive coasts in North America.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: St. John’s to Witless Bay (approx. 60 km)

- **The drive:** From St. John’s take Route 11 to Cape Spear, then go back and take Route 10 (Southern Shore Highway) south to Witless Bay. The road is two-lane and well built, with views of bays and fishing villages, at 80–100 km/h. Pure driving time is around 1.5 hours; with stops, a full day. Petrol stations and supermarkets in St. John’s and Bay Bulls.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Cape Spear National Historic Site: the lighthouse (1836) is the oldest surviving one in the province and marks the easternmost point of North America. Depending on the season, whales and icebergs can be seen from the cliffs; check opening times and admission at parks.canada.ca.
  - Signal Hill National Historic Site in St. John’s: a hill at the harbour entrance with Cabot Tower and hiking trails with views of the city and sea; Marconi received the first transatlantic wireless signal here in 1901. Parking for large vehicles is limited.
  - Witless Bay Ecological Reserve: the largest puffin colony in North America breeds on the islands off the coast; boat tours from Bay Bulls and Witless Bay show puffins, kittiwakes and often whales in summer. Book tours and dates in advance.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Pippy Park Campground in St. John’s: a campground in the city park with sites in the woods, close to shops and sights; check facilities, vehicle lengths and reservations with the operator in advance. Alternatively Butter Pot Provincial Park south-west of St. John’s on the Trans-Canada Highway (note the distance from the city). On the Southern Shore there are private sites near Bay Bulls and Witless Bay; clarify availability in advance.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Newfoundland, separate rules apply to camping on Crown land; check the province’s current regulations before overnighting. In the city and at viewpoints such as Cape Spear and Signal Hill, overnighting in a vehicle is not allowed.
- **Insider tip for campers:** For the boat tours to the puffins, note the season: the birds are on the islands from about May to August; whales are more frequent in July. Fog can cancel tours, so choose a reservation with flexible dates. Before heading south, fill up and buy supplies in St. John’s.

### Stage 2: Witless Bay to Portugal Cove South (approx. 105 km)

- **The drive:** Take Route 10 (Irish Loop) south via Tors Cove, Ferryland, Renews and Cappahayden to Portugal Cove South. The road is two-lane and undulating, with wide views of bogs and coast, at 80–90 km/h. Pure driving time is around 1.5–2 hours; with stops, a full day. Petrol stations in Witless Bay and Ferryland; only a few further on, so fill up beforehand.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Ferryland: the Colony of Avalon is an archaeological dig site of the English colony of 1621; the visitor centre shows finds and leads tours of the site. The Ferryland lighthouse stands on the headland; check opening times and access in advance.
  - Coastal villages: Renews and Cappahayden are small fishing villages with an Irish heritage; in summer whales and icebergs are visible depending on weather and season.
  - Mistaken Point Ecological Reserve: the Ediacaran fossils (about 565 million years old) have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2016; the site is accessible only on guided hikes, starting at the Edge of Avalon Interpretive Centre in Portugal Cove South. Check dates and reservations in advance.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Along the Irish Loop there are mainly private and municipal campsites; check availability, vehicle length and hook-ups with the operators before you arrive. In high summer and at weekends it can get tight. Few sites lie directly on the sea.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Newfoundland, separate rules apply to camping on Crown land; check the province’s current regulations before overnighting. At harbours and viewpoints, overnighting is not advisable without express permission; communities may decide differently locally, so ask if in doubt.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Moose are common in the south of the Avalon Peninsula and one of the main causes of accidents; do not drive at night and at dusk, or drive very slowly. Before Portugal Cove South, fill up, fill your water and buy supplies; shops are rare.

### Stage 3: Portugal Cove South to Trepassey (approx. 75 km)

- **The drive:** From Portugal Cove South take the access road (partly unpaved) to Cape Race and back, then Route 10 west to Trepassey. The stretch to Cape Race is narrow and partly gravel; in rain or fog take care with large motorhomes, and check the condition beforehand. Pure driving time is around 2 hours including the track to the cape. Petrol stations in Trepassey; fill up beforehand.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Cape Race Lighthouse: the lighthouse stands at the far south-eastern end of the Avalon Peninsula; the Marconi station here picked up the Titanic’s distress calls in 1912. Access is seasonal and weather-dependent; check opening times and road condition in advance.
  - Mistaken Point and the Edge of Avalon Interpretive Centre: information on the geology and the fossils; the hike to the site is possible only with a guide, so check dates in advance.
  - Trepassey: a harbour town with a view of Trepassey Bay; the Trepassey Area Museum recalls the history of fishing and Amelia Earhart, who set off from here on her Atlantic flight in 1928.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Trepassey and the surrounding area there are mainly private and municipal campsites; check availability, vehicle length and hook-ups with the operators in advance. Mobile reception is patchy along the route.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Newfoundland, separate rules apply to camping on Crown land; check the province’s current regulations before overnighting. Cape Race and Trepassey have no designated free-standing provision; overnight on campsites or with the community’s permission.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The fog at Cape Race can hang for days, and the view is then poor. If you want to see the lighthouse, plan a buffer day. Pack a camera and ear protection against the wind.

### Stage 4: Trepassey to Placentia (approx. 180 km)

- **The drive:** From Trepassey take Route 10 north, then follow St. Mary’s Bay on Route 90 and on towards Placentia; the stretch runs through wide peat bogs and fishing villages. The roads are two-lane, at 80–90 km/h, 50 in villages. Pure driving time is around 3 hours; with stops, a full day. Petrol stations in Trepassey, St. Vincent’s and Placentia; check the routing with a map app.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - St. Vincent’s: the beach and coast at St. Vincent’s are known for whale watching in summer, when humpback whales feed close to shore. Watch the weather and visibility.
  - St. Mary’s Bay: a wide coastal road with views of the water and small fishing villages.
  - Placentia: Castle Hill National Historic Site with remains of the 17th-century French fortress of Plaisance; check opening times and access at parks.canada.ca.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Around Placentia there are mainly private and municipal campsites; check availability, vehicle length and hook-ups with the operators in advance. Note: the Argentia ferry terminal (Marine Atlantic) is nearby; during the season the sites there are in demand.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Newfoundland, separate rules apply to camping on Crown land; check the province’s current regulations before overnighting. In Placentia and Argentia, overnighting in a vehicle in public places and in the harbour area is not allowed.
- **Insider tip for campers:** In season Marine Atlantic links North Sydney (Nova Scotia) with Argentia; state vehicle height and length when booking, and early reservation is recommended. On the long stretch, plan for supplies, water and fuel.

### Stage 5: Placentia to Cape St. Mary’s and back (approx. 135 km)

- **The drive:** From Placentia take the coastal road (Cape Shore) south to Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve and back; the access road has a partly poor surface and potholes, with limited visibility in fog, at 50–80 km/h. Pure driving time is around 2.5 hours. Petrol stations in Placentia; none on the Cape Shore, so fill up beforehand.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve: thousands of gannets, kittiwakes and murres nest on Bird Rock, which you see from the trail at a distance of a few metres. The path from the car park to the viewpoint is short, and the cliffs are unfenced. Check the visitor centre, opening times and breeding season in advance.
  - Cape Shore: a coastal road with fishing villages and views of the sea; icebergs are possible in early summer.
  - Castle Hill National Historic Site near Placentia (if not visited in stage 4): fortress remains with a view over the harbour.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Return to Placentia or go to the private sites on the Cape Shore; check availability, vehicle length and hook-ups with the operators in advance. There is no campground at Cape St. Mary’s itself.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Newfoundland, separate rules apply to camping on Crown land; check the province’s current regulations before overnighting. At Cape St. Mary’s and in the car park, overnighting in a vehicle is not provided for.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Warm clothing and wind protection are a must at Bird Rock; even in summer it can be cool and foggy. A visit in the early morning or late afternoon is quieter. Keep your distance from the birds.

### Stage 6: Placentia to St. John’s (approx. 130 km)

- **The drive:** From Placentia take Routes 100 and 1 (Trans-Canada Highway) east and north to St. John’s. The road is mostly two-lane, with multi-lane sections near St. John’s, at mostly 80–100 km/h. Pure driving time is around 2 hours. Petrol stations and shops in Placentia, Whitbourne and the St. John’s area.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Trans-Canada Highway: the route runs through bogs and forests, with occasional viewpoints; in autumn, berry picking at the roadside is possible (observe the rules).
  - St. John’s: the old town with George Street, the harbour and the coloured houses of Jellybean Row; parking for large vehicles is scarce.
  - Quidi Vidi: a small fishing village on the lake with a brewery and a view; the approach is tight and difficult for large vehicles.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Pippy Park Campground in St. John’s (see stage 1) or private sites in the St. John’s area; for the last night, a site near the city is a good choice if the handover is early in the day. Clarify availability and conditions in advance.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In St. John’s, overnighting in a vehicle on the street and in public car parks is not allowed.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Before the handover in St. John’s, visit a dump station and a petrol station; disposal facilities are rare in the city. Streets in the old town are steep and narrow; park large motorhomes outside.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- In Newfoundland, separate rules apply to camping on Crown land; check the province’s current regulations before overnighting. Private land, harbour areas and conservation areas (Ecological Reserves) are off limits; enforcement is local.
- In dry spells the province imposes fire and access bans on the forest; check the status before every stage at gov.nl.ca.
- Overnighting in the car parks of supermarkets, harbours and museums is not generally allowed; if in doubt, ask.
- Wildlife: moose are numerous on the Avalon Peninsula and one of the main causes of accidents; black bears live on the island of Newfoundland but are rare on the Avalon Peninsula. Keep food in the vehicle at night.
- Apps and sites: Campendium, iOverlander, The Dyrt, plus the reservation systems of the provincial parks and Parks Canada.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Dump stations are found on many campsites and at some petrol stations; apps such as Campendium or iOverlander help with the search. Along the Irish Loop, check availability in advance.
- Tap water in the towns is generally drinkable; follow the signs, as boil water advisories occasionally apply.
- Do not drain grey water onto the ground or into watercourses; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane: petrol stations and dealers refill bottles; European bottles need an adapter and are mostly not refilled.
- Fuel: petrol stations in St. John’s, Bay Bulls, Ferryland, Trepassey, St. Vincent’s and Placentia; between the towns and on the Cape Shore only a few or none.
- Electricity: serviced sites offer 15, 30 or 50 A; rental motorhomes usually have the matching cable.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits in km/h: Trans-Canada Highway mostly 100, in places 90; coastal roads 80–90; in built-up areas 50. Watch for moose, especially at dusk.
- Tolls: there are no tolls on the routes described; the Marine Atlantic ferry (North Sydney–Argentia) charges a fare and is seasonal.
- Dimensions and height: in Canada a maximum height of about 4.1 m (13 ft 6 in) generally applies.
- Traffic law: turning right on red is permitted after a full stop unless a sign prohibits it; open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited; phones at the wheel only hands-free. A German driving licence is generally sufficient, though an international one is recommended.
- Parks: for Cape Spear, Signal Hill and Castle Hill, Parks Canada admission fees and the Discovery Pass apply; check current amounts at parks.canada.ca.
- Weather: cool summers (15–20 °C), fog and wind frequent; icebergs possible in early summer; note remnants of hurricanes in late summer and autumn.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception is patchy in places on the Southern Shore and the Cape Shore.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Warm layers, windproof jacket and rain jacket: fog and wind are usual even in high summer.
- Binoculars for whales, puffins and gannets.
- Insect repellent: mosquitoes and black flies by bogs and hiking trails.
- Hiking boots for coastal paths, which are often wet and rocky.
- Copy of the reservations (boat tours, ferry, Mistaken Point guided hike) and offline maps.
- Spare water canister and a tyre pressure gauge for gravel and pothole stretches.

_As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Stop-by-stop itinerary

1. **St. John’s** (NL)
2. **Cape Spear** (NL)
3. **Bay Bulls** (NL)
4. **Witless Bay** (NL)
5. **Ferryland** (NL)
6. **Cape Race** (NL)
7. **Portugal Cove South** (NL)
8. **Trepassey** (NL)
9. **Cape St. Mary’s** (NL)
10. **Placentia** (NL)
11. **St. John’s** (NL)

## Best time to go

The most pleasant months are usually June–September. Still fine, with some compromises, in May. Cold, short days in November–March. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## FAQs

**How long is Puffins, gannets and fog at the cape: by camper along the Irish Loop and the Avalon Peninsula?**
6-day round trip of about 423 km (263 mi) with 11 stops, starting and ending in St. John’s. About 4 h 41 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Puffins, gannets and fog at the cape: by camper along the Irish Loop and the Avalon Peninsula?**
We suggest 6 days: about 4 h 41 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Puffins, gannets and fog at the cape: by camper along the Irish Loop and the Avalon Peninsula start and end?**
It is a round trip that starts and ends in St. John’s.

**Which provinces does Puffins, gannets and fog at the cape: by camper along the Irish Loop and the Avalon Peninsula pass through?**
Newfoundland and Labrador.

**When is the best time for Puffins, gannets and fog at the cape: by camper along the Irish Loop and the Avalon Peninsula?**
The most pleasant months are usually June–September. Still fine, with some compromises, in May. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)