# Glaciers, wildflowers and ash: by camper around Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens

> Two volcanoes, one loop of just under 900 kilometres: from the glacier giant of Mount Rainier National Park to the torn-open crater in Gifford Pinchot…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-155-mount-rainier-st-helens/

**At a glance:** 6-day round trip of about 540 km (335 mi) with 12 stops, starting and ending in Tacoma. About 5 h 59 min of driving in total. Two volcanoes, one loop of just under 900 kilometres: from the glacier giant of Mount Rainier National Park to the torn-open crater in Gifford Pinchot National Forest.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | 540 km (335 mi) |
| Driving | 5 h 59 min |
| Suggested days | 6 |
| Stops | 12 |
| Route | Tacoma → Tacoma |
| States | WA |
| Updated | September 1, 2026 |

*Two volcanoes, one loop of just under 900 kilometres: from the glacier giant of Mount Rainier National Park to the torn-open crater in Gifford Pinchot National Forest.*

## The spirit of the route

Mount Rainier stands above Puget Sound like a ship, 4,392 metres high and covered by 25 named glaciers. From the sliding door you see the alpenglow first thing in the morning, then the haze in the Nisqually valley, and from mid-July the slopes at Paradise colour with lupines and paintbrush. Further south the scenery changes: Douglas firs and hemlocks in the Ohanapecosh valley, then the ash and lava fields around Mount St. Helens, which lost its north flank in 1980. Tree trunks still stand there like matchsticks at Spirit Lake, and in early summer the Pumice Plain blooms. The nights are quiet, cold and strikingly dark. The route demands planning around access roads, reservations and season: high elevations are often not free of snow until July, and some roads close at the end of October. In return it rewards you with open space, forest and weather that changes within minutes.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Tacoma to Longmire (Mount Rainier National Park) (approx. 140 km)

- **The drive:** From Tacoma take SR 7 and SR 161 to Eatonville, then SR 7 and SR 706 through Ashford to the park’s Nisqually entrance. The road is gently curving as far as Ashford, then narrow and wooded, with shade and some climbing; allow about four hours with stops. The approach from Ashford to the Longmire area is no problem for motorhomes, but larger vehicles should keep an eye on the clearance height at the park buildings. The last petrol stations and supermarkets are in Eatonville and Ashford; there is no fuel in the park.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad near Elbe: a heritage railway in front of the park; check the timetable and operation beforehand. A photo of the wooden station is worth it even without a ride.
  - Longmire Historic District: the park’s oldest visitor centre, a museum and trails such as the Trail of the Shadows (a short loop past the mineral springs); an hour is enough.
  - Christine Falls and the Nisqually bridge below Longmire: short photo stops on the road between Longmire and Paradise; the car parks are small, so if there is oncoming traffic only stop to let people out.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Cougar Rock Campground (national park) in the forest near Longmire: a simple site with water and toilets, no hook-ups, open seasonally (according to the NPS in 2026 from late May to late September); reserve at Recreation.gov and note the length limits when booking. After the season ends, the national forest campgrounds near Packwood (see stage 2) offer more room; Ohanapecosh Campground is closed in 2026.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Mount Rainier National Park you may only stay overnight at designated campgrounds; parking overnight on roads or at viewpoints is prohibited. Dispersed camping is available in Gifford Pinchot and Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest outside the park, for example along the forest roads near Randle or Packwood; consult the Forest Service map (MVUM) and check for fire-danger days.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Before you enter, check whether a timed-entry reservation applies in summer for the roads to Paradise or Sunrise; the scheme has been introduced and changed in some years. Entrance fees and surcharges for foreign visitors: check current amounts on nps.gov. Observe the chain requirement in winter: the road to Paradise is open all year, but in snow you need chains or winter tyres in the vehicle.

### Stage 2: Longmire to Packwood (approx. 95 km)

- **The drive:** From Longmire climb to Paradise (about 20 km, over 600 metres of ascent), then return and take Stevens Canyon Road, which is open seasonally (in 2026, according to the NPS, until about 26 October, subject to change with the weather; the tunnel is 12 ft 6 in, about 3.8 m, a height limit), past Reflection Lakes, Box Canyon and Backbone Ridge. It is winding, with some narrow sections and passing places; motorhomes go slowly here. At the Stevens Canyon Entrance head towards Ohanapecosh, then take SR 123 and US-12 to Packwood. Driving time is just under three hours, a full day with hiking stops.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Paradise: a century-old lodge, a visitor centre and trails across wildflower meadows; the Skyline Trail is a long loop, while shorter paths such as the Nisqually Vista Trail take an hour. The car park is often full from mid-morning, so arrive early.
  - Reflection Lakes: the volcano’s reflection on windless early mornings, right beside the road.
  - Grove of the Patriarchs near Ohanapecosh: a short, level path to ancient cedars and Douglas firs on a river island; the route over the suspension bridge is often closed seasonally, so check the status beforehand.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Ohanapecosh Campground in the national park is closed in 2026 because of renovation work (according to the NPS until at least November). Go instead to La Wis Wis Campground (Gifford Pinchot National Forest) on the Cowlitz River near Packwood, also bookable via Recreation.gov; check length limits and season dates beforehand.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** On the forest roads east of Packwood (Gifford Pinchot National Forest) dispersed camping is allowed at sites already in use, usually for up to 14 days; fire bans are frequent in dry summers. Not permitted in the national park itself.
- **Insider tip for campers:** There is no fresh water or dump station in the park itself; fill up in Packwood or Randle beforehand. Stevens Canyon Road may close earlier or open later because of snow or construction work, and from 1 November chains are required in the park; check road status at nps.gov/mora or on 360-569-2211. Expect oncoming traffic on bends, and keep an eye out for wildlife (black bears, marmots).

### Stage 3: Packwood to Randle and Windy Ridge (approx. 130 km)

- **The drive:** Take US-12 to Randle (about 30 km), then Forest Road 25 south and Forest Road 99 up to the Windy Ridge Viewpoint at Spirit Lake. The route is mostly paved but narrow, with climbs and passing places; the season depends on snow and road condition (usually early summer to autumn); check the status with the Forest Service beforehand. Driving time to Windy Ridge is about 1.5 hours from Randle, and you return the same way. There is hardly any mobile signal. Fill up with petrol in Packwood or Randle.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Windy Ridge Viewpoint: a view into the crater, across the Pumice Plain and onto Spirit Lake with its floating logs; a staircase leads up the hill there. It is cool here even in summer when the wind blows.
  - Miners Car and Meta Lake: short paths in the blast zone with information on the recolonisation of the land; the Meta Lake Trail is easy and short.
  - Ape Cave is easier to reach from stage 5; here it is better to visit the Mount St. Helens Science and Learning Center at Coldwater Lake instead, if the access road is open.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Iron Creek Campground (Gifford Pinchot National Forest) near Randle: in old forest on the Cispus River, water and toilets, no hook-ups; reserve via Recreation.gov and note length limits. Higher up and usable only seasonally is Takhlakh Lake Campground; check the condition of the access road beforehand.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Gifford Pinchot National Forest dispersed camping is generally allowed, except in marked areas (special rules apply, for example, near Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument). Read the notices on site and the MVUM; fires only if the current rules allow it.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The Windy Ridge area has no food and no fuel supply. Bring water and provisions. The road can close at short notice because of landslides or snow: check current reports with the Forest Service (Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument). In fog and rain visibility is poor, so it is better to go on another day.

### Stage 4: Randle to Silver Lake and Spirit Lake Highway (approx. 190 km)

- **The drive:** From Randle take US-12 west and I-5 south to Castle Rock, then SR 504 (Spirit Lake Highway) for about 80 km to the barrier at milepost 45.2 (Hummocks Trailhead). The road is mostly two-lane and well built, but with climbs and bends. Since the landslide of May 2023 the upper section has been closed: Johnston Ridge Observatory is not reachable in 2026, and the Forest Service gives 2027 at the earliest; check the current status with the Monument (360-449-7800) beforehand. Driving time with stops is about five hours.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Mount St. Helens Visitor Center at Silver Lake: an exhibition on the 1980 eruption, a film and a short path along the lake; check admission and opening times beforehand.
  - Johnston Ridge Observatory: a view straight into the crater and onto the Pumice Plain; the volcanologist David Johnston was killed here in 1980. Not reachable in 2026 because of the 2023 landslide on SR 504 and, according to the Forest Service, not accessible again before 2027 at the earliest; use the viewpoints and trails in front of the barrier instead.
  - Hoffstadt Bluffs and Coldwater Lake: viewpoints and a short path along the lake on SR 504 before the closure, where open; car parking for large vehicles is limited.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Seaquest State Park, opposite the Mount St. Helens Visitor Center: sites with electricity and water as well as simple sites, showers, dump station; reserve via Washington State Parks and check vehicle lengths when booking.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** There are hardly any legal places along SR 504; the area is partly a national volcanic monument and partly private land. Staying overnight in viewpoint car parks is not permitted. Use the designated campgrounds.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Fill up in Castle Rock or Toutle; beyond Toutle there is no petrol station on SR 504. Combination length and height on bridges apply; the road has narrow sections in its upper part. Visitors with a national parks pass (America the Beautiful) may get a discount at some facilities; check the details with the Forest Service and Washington State Parks.

### Stage 5: Silver Lake to Cougar (approx. 110 km)

- **The drive:** From Castle Rock take I-5 south to Woodland, then SR 503 and Lewis River Road (Cougar) along Merwin Lake and Yale Lake. The speed limit is 45–55 mph, and the road is partly winding and wooded. Driving time is about two hours. Cougar has a small shop and a petrol station, with limited opening hours. The forest roads to Ape Cave and Lava Canyon are partly narrow and steep and are closed in winter.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Ape Cave: one of the longest lava tubes in North America, open to the public; you need a torch and warm clothing, as it is around 4–6 °C inside. In summer the Forest Service programme offers lantern hire; check the conditions and whether a reservation is required. About 1.5–2.5 hours.
  - Lava Canyon Trail: a short to medium-length path with a suspension bridge across the gorge; Forest Road 83 is seasonal, so check its condition beforehand.
  - Lewis River Falls: several waterfalls (Lower, Middle, Upper) along the Lewis River Trail; some of the viewpoints are reachable after a short walk.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Lewis River Campground (Gifford Pinchot National Forest) near Cougar: simple sites by the river, toilets, drinking water partly limited; seasonal. Alternatively Beaver Bay Campground on Yale Lake (PacifiCorp): lakeside sites, toilets and showers; reserve via PacifiCorp and check vehicle lengths.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Gifford Pinchot National Forest dispersed camping is generally allowed, but not in the immediate surroundings of Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument and not at Ape Cave. Read the notices and observe fire bans.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Ape Cave and Lava Canyon lie on forest roads that are not always suitable for large motorhomes. It is better to leave the vehicle at Cougar or at suitable campgrounds. There is largely no mobile signal; carry a paper map or an offline map.

### Stage 6: Cougar to Tacoma (approx. 190 km)

- **The drive:** Return on SR 503 to Woodland and take I-5 north to Olympia and Tacoma. A main motorway with few climbs, speeds of 60–70 mph. Traffic between Olympia and Tacoma is dense on weekdays, especially in the afternoon. Driving time is about 2.5 hours without congestion.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Olympia and the Washington State Capitol: the state government campus lies on Capitol Lake; parking is tight in the city centre; a short walk.
  - Tacoma, Museum of Glass and Chihuly Bridge of Glass: a footbridge with glass sculptures; parking for motorhomes is limited.
  - Point Defiance Park in Tacoma: a forest park with sea views, a zoo and Fort Nisqually; a quiet finish on Puget Sound.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Millersylvania State Park near Olympia: sites with electricity and water as well as simple sites on Deep Lake, showers, dump station; reserve via Washington State Parks. For the last night near Tacoma, rental depots are often in Seattle; plan to stay overnight there.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Olympia–Tacoma region staying overnight in a vehicle on roads and car parks is largely prohibited; cities and counties enforce this. There is no legal free-camping alternative in the urban area.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Before returning the vehicle, empty fresh water and waste water at a dump station (State Parks usually offer them for a fee). I-5 in Tacoma has bottlenecks; use navigation with traffic reports. Rental motorhomes often require cleaned tanks.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- In the state of Washington, staying overnight in vehicles on roads and car parks is prohibited depending on the municipality; enforcement is in cities and at tourist spots. In national parks such as Mount Rainier, camping is allowed only at designated sites.
- Dispersed camping is allowed in the National Forests (Gifford Pinchot, Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie) at sites already in use, usually for up to 14 days, keeping your distance from water and roads as posted. Fire bans in summer are frequent; if in doubt, use only a gas stove and ask locally.
- Special rules apply in Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument: camping or hiking off the trails is not allowed everywhere; heed the notices posted.
- Supermarket and casino car parks often no longer allow overnight stays; ask in the shop, otherwise do not risk it. Rest areas on I-5 are for short breaks, not for camping.
- Wildlife: black bears, cougars and snakes live in the forests; keep food in the vehicle or in bear boxes at night, never in the tent. At Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens keep your distance from marmots and mountain goats, and do not feed them.
- Useful apps and sites: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, Recreation.gov (national park and national forest campgrounds), Washington State Parks reservations. Road status: WSDOT and nps.gov/mora.
- Reservations for Mount Rainier and Forest Service campgrounds are booked up early in high season; plan flexibly and note down sites in Packwood, Randle and Cougar as alternatives.
- If checked, stay friendly and leave the site; fines for rental motorhomes are usually passed on by the rental company.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Dump stations: Seaquest State Park, Millersylvania State Park and some private sites for a fee; in Mount Rainier National Park there is no dump station at the campgrounds, only in the surrounding area (check Ashford or Packwood). Overview at sanidumps.com.
- Drinking water: campgrounds in the national park and in State Parks have taps; at national forest campgrounds sometimes only seasonally. For sites without water take a jerry can, and filter water from streams and rivers.
- Never discharge grey water onto the ground or into streams; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane in Eatonville, Packwood, Castle Rock and Olympia; European gas bottles need an adapter and are rarely refilled.
- Fuel: petrol stations in Eatonville, Ashford, Packwood, Randle, Castle Rock and Cougar; none in Mount Rainier National Park or along the forest roads to Windy Ridge.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Eatonville, Packwood, Castle Rock and Woodland; in Ashford only small shops with higher prices.
- Electricity: sites with hook-ups usually offer 30 and 50 A at 120 V; no electricity at national park and national forest campgrounds. Generators only at set times.
- Laundry and rubbish: coin laundries in Castle Rock, Olympia and Tacoma; dispose of rubbish as required, and use bear boxes.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits: motorways up to 60–70 mph, highways 55 mph, in towns 25–35 mph, in national parks usually 25–35 mph. In Washington, slow vehicles must let other traffic pass on roads with passing places.
- Tolls: no toll roads on the route; the Tacoma Narrows Bridge (SR 16) is a toll bridge but is not on the loop.
- Parks and entrance fees: Mount Rainier National Park charges an entrance fee; the America the Beautiful Pass is valid on federal land, not in State Parks. Higher fees sometimes apply to visitors without US residence: check current amounts on nps.gov. Washington State Parks require the Discover Pass or a day fee.
- Dimensions and lengths: many sites in the national park and national forest are limited to 30–40 ft; check length limits when booking. Observe height restrictions on bridges and in car parks.
- Reservations: Recreation.gov for Mount Rainier and National Forest sites, Washington State Parks reservations up to nine months ahead; book high-season sites early.
- Weather and season: high elevations are usually free of snow from July to September; wildflowers bloom from about mid-July to August. At Paradise nights are only a few degrees even in summer. Winter brings chains and snowfall.
- Traffic law: right turn on red after stopping is allowed, open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited, phones at the wheel only hands-free. A German driving licence is sufficient for tourists.
- Emergency: 911; mobile signal drops out in the valleys and on forest roads. In thunderstorms and fog abandon hikes; never leave the trails on glacier and lava fields without equipment.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Levelling ramps and wheel chocks – many national forest sites and lay-bys are sloping, and gravel ground is soft.
- Warm layers, a hat and a rain jacket: at Paradise and Windy Ridge it is often only 5–10 °C even in August, and a cold wind blows at the volcano.
- Head torch and sturdy shoes for Ape Cave (around 4–6 °C, uneven lava floor) as well as binoculars for marmots and mountain goats.
- Offline maps, a paper map and printed reservations – there is hardly any reception on the forest roads around Mount St. Helens.
- Water containers (20 l) and a gas stove: many national forest sites have no drinking water, and fire bans in summer are frequent.
- Insect repellent: mosquitoes and black flies are numerous at lakes and wet meadows in early summer.

_As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Stop-by-stop itinerary

1. **Tacoma** (WA)
2. **Eatonville** (WA)
3. **Longmire** (WA)
4. **Paradise** (WA)
5. **Ohanapecosh** (WA)
6. **Packwood** (WA)
7. **Randle** (WA)
8. **Windy Ridge** (WA)
9. **Castle Rock** (WA)
10. **Johnston Ridge Observatory** (Toutle, WA): A viewpoint looking straight into the crater of Mount St. Helens, five miles from the 1980 blast.
11. **Cougar** (WA)
12. **Tacoma** (WA)

## Best time to go

The most pleasant months are usually May–June and August–September. Still fine, with some compromises, in April, July and October. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## FAQs

**How long is Glaciers, wildflowers and ash: by camper around Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens?**
6-day round trip of about 540 km (335 mi) with 12 stops, starting and ending in Tacoma. About 5 h 59 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Glaciers, wildflowers and ash: by camper around Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens?**
We suggest 6 days: about 5 h 59 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Glaciers, wildflowers and ash: by camper around Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens start and end?**
It is a round trip that starts and ends in Tacoma.

**Which states does Glaciers, wildflowers and ash: by camper around Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens pass through?**
Washington.

**Where can you camp along Glaciers, wildflowers and ash: by camper around Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens?**
OpenStreetMap lists 132 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 19 mi of the stops on this route. For example: Cougar Rock Campground, Ohanapecosh Campground and Dash Point Campground.

**When is the best time for Glaciers, wildflowers and ash: by camper around Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens?**
The most pleasant months are usually May–June and August–September. Still fine, with some compromises, in April, July and October. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)