# Aglianico, witches and monastery heights – by motorhome from Benevento through Sannio and Irpinia to Lago Laceno

> About 255 km through the green hinterland of Campania: from Benevento’s triumphal arch via Sant’Agata de’ Goti and the mountain monastery of Montevergine to…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-137-irpinia-sannio-benevento/

**At a glance:** 7-day road trip of about 161 km (100 mi) with 8 stops, from Benevento to Conza della Campania. About 2 h 13 min of driving in total. About 255 km through the green hinterland of Campania: from Benevento’s triumphal arch via Sant’Agata de’ Goti and the mountain monastery of Montevergine to the vineyards of Taurasi, the karst lake of Lago Laceno and Goleto Abbey, as far as Lago di Conza.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | 161 km (100 mi) |
| Driving | 2 h 13 min |
| Suggested days | 7 |
| Stops | 8 |
| Route | Benevento → Conza della Campania |
| Countries | Italy |
| Updated | September 1, 2026 |

*About 255 km through the green hinterland of Campania: from Benevento’s triumphal arch via Sant’Agata de’ Goti and the mountain monastery of Montevergine to the vineyards of Taurasi, the karst lake of Lago Laceno and Goleto Abbey, as far as Lago di Conza.*

## The spirit of the route

If you know Campania only from the coast, you miss its heart. Behind Naples the land rises: tuff-stone towns on rocky spurs, vineyards with ancient Aglianico vines, chestnut and beech forests, mountains that turn white in winter. Benevento tells of Romans, Lombards and the witches who gave their name to the Strega liqueur. At Montevergine people have made pilgrimages to the Black Madonna for centuries. Irpinia bears the scars of the 1980 earthquake, but also the pride of a region that rebuilt its villages. From the sliding door you see rows of vines, castles on hilltops and, in the evening, smoke from chimneys. On the plate there are chestnuts, black truffle, torrone and bread that tastes of wood fire. It is an Italy where you are still a stranger and at the same time a welcome guest.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Benevento to Sant’Agata de’ Goti (approx. 35 km)

- **The drive:** From Benevento take the SS7 Appia and provincial roads towards Montesarchio, then on to the old town of Sant’Agata de’ Goti. Well built, but with village streets; about 50 minutes. The old town itself is narrow, so the motorhome stays on the edge.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Benevento: the Arco di Traiano, the Roman theatre and the church of Santa Sofia, part of the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Lombards.
  - The Rocca dei Rettori with the city museum, and the Strega liqueur made in Benevento.
  - Sant’Agata de’ Goti: an old town on a tuff-stone rock with a castle and views into the gorge.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Benevento aires are listed on the edge of town; ask about facilities, opening times and prices beforehand. For Sant’Agata de’ Goti aires on the edge of the village are usual; ask the municipality about current options.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Italian law allows overnighting in a motorhome wherever parking is permitted, as long as nothing is put out. In the old towns of Benevento and Sant’Agata a ZTL applies; park only in designated car parks on the edge.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Benevento’s old town is a camera-monitored ZTL, so use the aires outside and go on foot. Strega liqueur and torrone are cheaper in town than in the tourist packaging. The wines of the area, Falanghina and Aglianico del Taburno, are regionally award-winning.

### Stage 2: Sant’Agata de’ Goti to Avellino (approx. 55 km)

- **The drive:** Via Montesarchio and the SS7 Appia to Avellino, partly on the expressway. Traffic around Avellino is dense, and there are roadworks too; about an hour and 15 minutes. The A16 Napoli–Canosa motorway is a toll road, but more direct.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Montesarchio: a Lombard castle above the town with views into the valley.
  - Avellino: the old town, the Duomo and the clock-tower piazza, a walk through the town that was rebuilt after the 1980 quake.
  - Mastroberardino in Atripalda: a historic winery for Taurasi, Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino, visits by appointment only.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Aires are rare around Avellino; the Area sosta Volturara Irpina is a listed option in the mountains above the town. Ask about facilities and access beforehand. In town overnighting in car parks on the edge is usual, where parking is permitted.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Avellino a ZTL applies in the old town. Outside the town, overnighting in public car parks is allowed where parking is permitted; observe the signs.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Avellino has a ZTL zone in the centre, so use car parks on the edge of town. The region is wine country: the DOCG wines Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo; many wineries open only by appointment. If you taste more than a glass, you are better off staying on the site.

### Stage 3: Avellino to Montevergine (Mercogliano) (approx. 20 km)

- **The drive:** From Avellino to Mercogliano and from there the mountain road in hairpins up to the sanctuary at about 1,270 m. The road is narrow, winding and tiresome for large motorhomes, especially on pilgrimage days; about 40 minutes. Alternatively there is a rail link up from Mercogliano; check operation in advance.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Santuario di Montevergine: a place of pilgrimage with the Black Madonna, venerated as “Mamma Schiavona”, and a wide view as far as the sea.
  - Trails in the Partenio nature park through beech and chestnut forests.
  - Monastery and library with manuscripts; access is possible only at certain times.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** There are no campsites above Mercogliano; use the aires in the valley or an agriturismo in Avellino. For motorhomes the car park at the sanctuary can be used during the day; overnighting is not provided for.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** At the Santuario the monastic community’s rules apply; overnighting in the vehicle in the car park is not provided for, and pilgrims and services take priority.
- **Insider tip for campers:** On 2 February the pilgrimage to the Madonna takes place at Candelora, and on that day the access road is heavily loaded. In winter there may be snow on the mountain, so check winter equipment. Check with the operator in advance whether the funicular from Mercogliano to the sanctuary is currently running.

### Stage 4: Mercogliano to Taurasi (approx. 35 km)

- **The drive:** From Mercogliano via Avellino and Atripalda into the hill country of Taurasi, on provincial roads through rows of vines and olive groves. The roads are narrow but little used; about 50 minutes. Village streets in the hill villages can be very tight.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Taurasi: the wine town of Campania’s first DOCG, with a castle above the valley and wine cellars in the village centre.
  - Vineyards with Aglianico vines: the harvest is in October, and walks between the rows of vines are possible at any time.
  - Enoteca Regionale and wineries of the region, some with tastings by appointment.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In and around Taurasi there are agriturismi that take motorhomes; clarify facilities and access in advance. For the vineyards choose a site at a winemaker’s, which often offers electricity and water.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In small villages a quietly parked motorhome is tolerated; putting out an awning and chairs is forbidden. Observe the signs and the municipality’s bylaws.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The autumn grape harvest puts tractors on the narrow roads; allow more time. Many winemakers sell direct, cartons are cheap and travel well in a motorhome. Do not drive yourself after a tasting; the alcohol limit is 0.5.

### Stage 5: Taurasi to Lago Laceno (Bagnoli Irpino) (approx. 45 km)

- **The drive:** From Taurasi on provincial roads to Montella and Bagnoli Irpino, then up to Lago Laceno at about 1,050 m. The route runs through chestnut forests, has many bends and some narrow sections; about an hour and 15 minutes. In winter the plateau is snow-covered.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Lago Laceno: a karst lake on the plateau with trails and, in winter, a small ski area.
  - Grotte del Caliendo near Bagnoli Irpino: a stalactite cave with guided tours; check times in advance.
  - Bagnoli Irpino: the town of the black truffle, with regional specialities in the inns.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** At Lago Laceno an aire for motorhomes is listed; ask about facilities and season beforehand. In high season and in winter, when the skiing is open, the plateau is heavily visited. For alternatives use agriturismi in Bagnoli Irpino.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Monti Picentini nature park the management’s rules apply; overnighting outside designated sites and open fires are not permitted.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The plateau lies at about 1,050 m, and at night it turns cool even in summer. In winter snow chains may be compulsory. Black truffle is offered in autumn and winter; ask about prices beforehand.

### Stage 6: Bagnoli Irpino to Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi (Goleto Abbey) (approx. 40 km)

- **The drive:** From Bagnoli via Nusco and provincial roads to Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi and Goleto Abbey. The roads are winding and run over ridges with wide views; about an hour. Some village streets are narrow.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Goleto Abbey: a monastery complex from the 12th century, founded by William of Vercelli, with a church and the tower of Emperor Frederick II.
  - Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi: a castle and an old town rebuilt after the 1980 earthquake.
  - Nusco: a hill town overlooking the Ofanto valley, one of the highest-lying towns in Irpinia.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Around Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi aires are rare; ask the municipality or an agriturismo in advance. Near the abbey agriturismi that take motorhomes are usual.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** At Goleto monastery the management’s rules apply; overnighting is not provided for there. In small places quiet parking is mostly possible where parking is permitted.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The earthquake of 23 November 1980 shapes the region, with a museum and memorial sites in the town. Check the abbey’s opening times beforehand. Filling stations with LPG are rare on this stretch.

### Stage 7: Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi to Conza della Campania (approx. 25 km)

- **The drive:** On provincial roads and the SS7 to Conza della Campania on Lago di Conza. The road runs over hills and is good but winding; about 40 minutes. On arrival the lake lies in the hollow, with bridges and viewpoints.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Parco Archeologico di Compsa near Conza: remains of the ancient town, destroyed by the quakes, with a museum.
  - WWF Oasis Lago di Conza: a reservoir with observation hides for migratory birds, especially rewarding in autumn and spring.
  - Views over the Ofanto valley and the hills towards Basilicata.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Conza della Campania an aire is listed; ask about facilities in advance. An alternative overnight stop is at agriturismi in the surrounding area. For longer stretches into Basilicata use this station to fill up.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the WWF oasis the conservation rules apply; overnighting is not permitted. Overnighting is usual at the aire in Conza.
- **Insider tip for campers:** At Lago di Conza the oasis’s observation towers are open only at certain times; take binoculars. From here the route continues into Basilicata or back onto the A16 towards Naples.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): a motorhome may overnight where parking is allowed, as long as only its wheels touch the ground. Chairs, tables, awnings, stabilisers, wedges and discharged grey water are forbidden.
- In Irpinia and Sannio a quietly parked motorhome is often tolerated in small places; legally, municipal bylaws and signs decide. In Benevento and Avellino ZTL zones apply.
- In the Partenio and Monti Picentini nature parks and in the Conza WWF oasis their own rules apply; fires and overnighting outside designated sites are not permitted.
- Aires are rare in the region. Useful apps: park4night, CamperOnline and Campercontact; confirm by phone before arriving.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Service points are called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. In Irpinia they are found only occasionally, for example at the aire in Benevento; fill up with water before driving into the mountains.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the service point; wild dumping is a main reason for new motorhome bans.
- Tap water is mostly drinkable; look for “acqua potabile”.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at GPL filling stations using the Italian adapter; in the hinterland they are rare.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on the motorway; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on the motorway. Vehicles towing a caravan: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights outside built-up areas even in daytime.
- ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) with camera monitoring exists in Benevento, Avellino and many old towns; fines arrive by post, often months later.
- Tolls: the A16 Napoli–Canosa is a toll road; the country roads of the route are toll-free.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, such as bicycles on a rear carrier, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory. Alcohol limit 0.5, for novice and professional drivers 0.0; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit. From 15 November to 15 April winter equipment may be required on mountain roads.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Hiking boots for Montevergine, the Partenio forests and the paths at Lago Laceno.
- A warm layer and a rain jacket: at 1,000 to 1,300 m it turns cool even in summer.
- Levelling wedges for the sloping meadows of the agriturismi.
- Cool box and cartons for wine, cheese and truffle that you buy direct from the producer.
- Binoculars for the migratory birds at Lago di Conza.

_As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Stop-by-stop itinerary

1. **Benevento** (Italy)
2. **Sant’Agata de’ Goti** (Italy)
3. **Avellino** (Italy)
4. **Mercogliano** (Italy)
5. **Taurasi** (Italy)
6. **Bagnoli Irpino** (Italy)
7. **Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi** (Italy)
8. **Conza della Campania** (Italy)

## Best time to go

The most pleasant months are usually April–May and September–October. Still fine, with some compromises, in March, June, August and November. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## Practical notes for the road

- **Italy: Motorway tolls.** Tolls on most autostrade; pay at the barrier by card or cash. Motorway limit for cars: 130 km/h.

## FAQs

**How long is Aglianico, witches and monastery heights – by motorhome from Benevento through Sannio and Irpinia to Lago Laceno?**
7-day road trip of about 161 km (100 mi) with 8 stops, from Benevento to Conza della Campania. About 2 h 13 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Aglianico, witches and monastery heights – by motorhome from Benevento through Sannio and Irpinia to Lago Laceno?**
We suggest 7 days: about 2 h 13 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Aglianico, witches and monastery heights – by motorhome from Benevento through Sannio and Irpinia to Lago Laceno start and end?**
It starts in Benevento and ends in Conza della Campania.

**Which countries does Aglianico, witches and monastery heights – by motorhome from Benevento through Sannio and Irpinia to Lago Laceno pass through?**
Italy.

**Where can you camp along Aglianico, witches and monastery heights – by motorhome from Benevento through Sannio and Irpinia to Lago Laceno?**
OpenStreetMap lists 12 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 20 km of the stops on this route. For example: Area sosta "Feudo di San Martino", Area sosta Sannio camper club and Oasi WWF.

**When is the best time for Aglianico, witches and monastery heights – by motorhome from Benevento through Sannio and Irpinia to Lago Laceno?**
The most pleasant months are usually April–May and September–October. Still fine, with some compromises, in March, June, August and November. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)