# Red rocks, ancient villages and big skies: by camper through Four Corners and the Navajo Nation

> From the cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde via Canyon de Chelly and Hubbell Trading Post to Chaco: 1,180 kilometres through the land of the Diné and the…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-110-four-corners-navajo-nation/

**At a glance:** 8-day round trip of about 859 km (534 mi) with 11 stops, starting and ending in Cortez. About 9 h 32 min of driving in total. From the cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde via Canyon de Chelly and Hubbell Trading Post to Chaco: 1,180 kilometres through the land of the Diné and the Ancestral Puebloans.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | 859 km (534 mi) |
| Driving | 9 h 32 min |
| Suggested days | 8 |
| Stops | 11 |
| Route | Cortez → Cortez |
| States | CO, AZ, NM |
| Updated | September 1, 2026 |

*From the cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde via Canyon de Chelly and Hubbell Trading Post to Chaco: 1,180 kilometres through the land of the Diné and the Ancestral Puebloans.*

## The spirit of the route

Here the horizon is the main subject. On the plateau above Cortez the camper stands among Gambel oaks and juniper, and at dusk the walls of Cliff Palace glow in the rock alcoves opposite. Further west the Navajo Nation begins: roads without end, flocks of sheep at the edge of the asphalt, hogans beside corrugated-iron roofs, sandstone towers and mesas drifting past the window. At the rim of Canyon de Chelly your gaze drops 300 metres to cottonwoods and cornfields that have been farmed for centuries. In Hubbell Trading Post the floorboards still creak as they did in 1878. At Chaco you stand at night under one of the darkest skies in the USA and see the Milky Way above walls a thousand years old. The route demands respect: you are a guest in Navajo country, so drive slowly, ask before taking photos and shop at the trading post.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Cortez to Mesa Verde National Park (approx. 80 km)

- **The drive:** From Cortez take US 160 about 16 kilometres east to the park entrance, then the park road across the mesa plateau: climbs, switchbacks, speeds mostly 35 mph or less, with a drive time of around 45 minutes to Chapin Mesa. The road is fine for motorhomes, but the twelve-mile Wetherill Mesa Road is closed to long vehicles (over about 25 ft) – check lengths and the season's opening with the NPS beforehand. Fuel stations and supermarkets are in Cortez; there is little in the park.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Cliff Palace and Balcony House: access only with a ranger-led tour and a ticket from Recreation.gov; at Balcony House you climb ladders and a tunnel, not for anyone afraid of heights. Secure tickets early, as in high season they are often sold out weeks ahead.
  - Chapin Mesa Archeological Museum and Spruce Tree House: the museum explains the Ancestral Puebloans; the trail to Spruce Tree House is partly closed depending on rock stability, so ask at the visitor centre for the current status.
  - Mesa Top Loop Road: a loop drive with viewpoints over dozens of cliff dwellings, very good for campers who could no longer get a guided tour.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Morefield Campground, about four miles past the entrance in a side valley: a large site with pitches for tents, campers and motorhomes, showers and a coin laundry at Morefield Village, dump station and water; only around 15 of the roughly 267 sites have full hook-ups. It is run by a concessionaire (Aramark) and open seasonally (roughly May to mid-October, dates vary): check opening, length limits and booking route in advance at nps.gov/meve.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** On the BLM and Forest Service land around Cortez, dispersed camping is usually allowed for up to 14 days; Canyons of the Ancients National Monument has its own rules – ask at the office in Dolores. Free camping is prohibited in the national park itself.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Fill up with fuel, fresh water and groceries in Cortez; there are hardly any places to stop on the plateau road. In summer thunderstorms often build in the afternoon, and then the rock steps on the tours are slippery.

### Stage 2: Mesa Verde National Park to Chinle (approx. 330 km)

- **The drive:** From the park back to Cortez and west on US 160 via Towaoc, past Ute Mountain land, to Four Corners Monument near Teec Nos Pos (turn-off); then continue on US 160 to Mexican Water and south on US 191 via Round Rock and Many Farms to Chinle. The roads are two-lane, wide and quiet, speeds mostly 55–65 mph; there are almost no services between the towns. Pure driving time is around 5 hours, so start early.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Four Corners Monument: Utah, Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico meet here. The site is run by the Navajo Nation, an entrance fee is charged, opening hours are seasonal and there are stalls selling crafts – payment is often cash only.
  - Ute Mountain Tribal Park (Towaoc): guided tours to cliff dwellings and petroglyphs, only with a tribal guide, register in advance.
  - Scenery on US 191: Round Rock, the Lukachukai Mountains to the west and the Chuska Mountains; along the way, photographing people and homes without permission is taboo.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Cottonwood Campground at the Canyon de Chelly visitor centre in Chinle: under cottonwoods, sites mostly without hook-ups, toilets and water available; run by the Navajo Nation, so check length limits, opening, fees and reservations in advance. As an alternative, guidebooks mention the private Spider Rock Campground on the South Rim (primitive camping, dusty track, rather unsuitable for large vehicles).
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Free camping on Navajo land is not allowed without a permit; backcountry permits are issued by Navajo Nation Parks & Recreation. Do not stop on pastures, farm tracks or private land.
- **Insider tip for campers:** In summer the Navajo Nation switches to daylight saving time, the rest of Arizona does not: clocks in Navajo Nation towns are then an hour ahead. Drive to Four Corners Monument in the morning and take cash; fill up in Mexican Water and Chinle beforehand.

### Stage 3: Chinle to Canyon de Chelly National Monument (approx. 90 km)

- **The drive:** Two rim drives: the South Rim Drive (about 37 miles there and back) runs past twelve viewpoints to Spider Rock, the North Rim Drive (about 34 miles) to the overlooks at Antelope House and Mummy Cave. Both roads are paved, partly with short gravel car parks, fine for campers but without shelter from the wind and with side gusts. Allow about 3 hours per rim with stops.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Spider Rock Overlook: a 240-metre rock spire, best in late-afternoon light.
  - White House Overlook Trail: the only trail to the canyon floor without a Navajo guide, about 2.5 miles there and back over steps and tunnels to a ruin by the river. Otherwise access to the canyon floor is only possible with a Navajo guide; the jeep or horseback tours that go with it are booked in Chinle.
  - Antelope House Overlook (North Rim): ruins beneath the cliff wall and peach orchards on the canyon floor.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Cottonwood Campground by the visitor centre again: rows of sites under cottonwoods, short walks to the shops and to the visitor centre. Alternatively, Spider Rock Campground offers a view of Spider Rock, but only via a gravel track. Check current opening and fees by phone before you arrive.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Wild camping is prohibited in the monument; permit requirements apply on Navajo land. Anyone without a site has to move on to Gallup.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Entry to the monument is free; guides for the canyon floor are Navajo guides and cost extra. Photograph residents only with their explicit consent; drones are prohibited. Fill up with drinking water before the rim drive, as there are no shops on the plateau.

### Stage 4: Chinle to Window Rock (approx. 110 km)

- **The drive:** South on US 191 via Sawmill to Ganado (about 60 km), where you turn off for Hubbell Trading Post, then east on AZ 264 to Window Rock. Two-lane and quiet, desert road surfaces with the occasional sheep on the road, two to two and a half hours of pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site in Ganado: a trading post operating since 1878, now managed by the NPS; rugs, silver jewellery and tinned goods are still sold, and the main house can be visited on a guided tour. Entry is free.
  - Window Rock Tribal Park and Navajo Nation Council Chamber: capital of the Navajo Nation, named after the rock arch in the sandstone; next to it are the Navajo Nation Museum and the Veterans Memorial Park.
  - Navajo Nation Zoo and Botanical Park: a small zoo with native animals, on the edge of Window Rock.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In and around Window Rock there are mainly small municipal or private sites; the choice is limited, so ask by phone about opening and length limits. If you want a decent site with hook-ups, plan to continue to Gallup (Red Rock Park).
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Free camping in the Navajo Nation only with a permit. Spending the night in the car park at Hubbell Trading Post or at fuel stations is not intended.
- **Insider tip for campers:** At Hubbell Trading Post the unwritten rule is not to touch anything that is not expressly for sale; rugs cost four figures, which reflects craftsmanship and is not a souvenir price. Navajo tacos and frybread are served in small restaurants from Ganado to Window Rock.

### Stage 5: Window Rock to Gallup (approx. 65 km)

- **The drive:** East on AZ 264 or NM 264 to Gallup (about 50 kilometres), then via I-40 Business / Route 66 to Red Rock Park (Church Rock). A short stage for a rest, mainly time for Gallup and town life.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Gallup: the capital of Native American art in the Southwest, with numerous trading posts and shops along historic Route 66; the El Rancho Hotel of 1937 stands as a landmark on the main street.
  - Red Rock Park with the Red Rock Museum: sandstone walls, a museum on the culture of the region and the venue of the Intertribal Ceremonial in August.
  - Trading posts in the town centre: rugs, pottery and silver jewellery; the dealers are happy to explain patterns and origin, and you are welcome to just look.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Red Rock Park (McKinley County, Church Rock): campground with pitches beneath red rock walls, sites with hook-ups, water and a dump station according to the operator, access from the highway. Check length limits, prices and opening with the county before you arrive. There are also private RV parks in Gallup.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Gallup itself, spending the night in a vehicle on streets or car parks is prohibited, and the surrounding Navajo land requires a permit; check BLM land to the north of town.
- **Insider tip for campers:** When buying silver and turquoise, ask about origin and artist; genuine Navajo work often comes with an artist's hallmark or a statement of authenticity. Do laundry and big shopping trips in Gallup, as Chaco is thinly supplied.

### Stage 6: Gallup to Farmington (approx. 165 km)

- **The drive:** North on US 491 (formerly US 666) through Yah-Ta-Hey and Shiprock, then east on US 64 to Farmington. Long straights with wide views, speeds mostly 65 mph. At Shiprock, Shiprock Peak (Tsé Bit’a’í) rises 480 metres above the plain. About 2 hours of pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Shiprock (Tsé Bit’a’í): a sacred rock of the Diné; climbing it is prohibited, and the view from US 491 and from the side road NM 134 is quite enough.
  - Aztec Ruins National Monument (north of Farmington): a reconstructed Great Kiva, ruins from the 12th century you can walk through and a small museum; an hour is enough.
  - Salmon Ruins and Heritage Park (Bloomfield): a pueblo settlement on the San Juan River with a museum, fitting in with the story of Chaco.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Lions Wilderness Park Campground on the edge of Farmington (municipal): sites with and without hook-ups close to the Animas River; check length limits, opening and reservations with the operator. Farmington also has private RV parks with full hook-ups.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Around Farmington there is BLM land (Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness, Aztec Ruins), but without designated camper sites; dispersed camping only on permitted tracks, and access roads are impassable in rain.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Farmington is the last large town for supplies before Chaco: fuel, shopping, water and waste disposal beforehand. The Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness with its hoodoos lies south of the town and can only be reached on gravel tracks; do not drive them after rain.

### Stage 7: Farmington to Chaco Culture National Historical Park (approx. 125 km)

- **The drive:** South on US 550 (NM 550) as far as Nageezi, then into the park: the official main access is County Road 7900, about 21 miles, of which around 13 miles are unpaved, washboard and muddy or impassable after rain. Drive the last stretch slowly in a motorhome (15–25 mph) and do not walk on gravel in a thunderstorm. Allow about 3 hours.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Pueblo Bonito and Chetro Ketl: the largest ‘Great Houses’ of Chaco Canyon with hundreds of rooms, around 1,000 years old; a loop trail runs along the walls.
  - Casa Rinconada: a large circular kiva, aligned exactly to the cardinal directions.
  - Starry sky: Chaco is an International Dark Sky Park; astronomy programmes are held on site from time to time, so ask locally for times.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Gallo Campground in the park: simple pitches at the foot of the cliff wall, no electricity, limited water and waste disposal; check length limits and reservations via Recreation.gov or the NPS beforehand. Overnighting outside the campground is not allowed in the park.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Free camping in the park is prohibited. Outside it lie BLM and Navajo Nation lands; on Navajo land a permit is again required, and unpaved tracks are impassable in rain.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Ask about the road condition before setting off, by phone to the park or on nps.gov/chcu: the access road is regularly closed after heavy rain. Fill the tank completely in Nageezi and carry enough water (at least 20 litres) – drinking water in the canyon is limited.

### Stage 8: Chaco Culture National Historical Park to Cortez (approx. 215 km)

- **The drive:** Back along the gravel road to Nageezi, then north on US 550 and via Bloomfield/Farmington on US 64 and NM 170/US 160 to Cortez. Between Farmington and Durango the road is fast, and there are climbs in the Hesperus and Mancos section; about 3.5 hours of pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Aztec Ruins National Monument as an intermediate stop, if you skipped it on the way out.
  - Mancos: a small town with Mancos State Park and a view of the La Plata Mountains.
  - Cortez: Cultural Center with a museum on the Ancestral Puebloans and art sales by the Ute, Navajo and Pueblo communities.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Mancos State Park (Jackson Gulch Reservoir): campground with pitches by the reservoir, electricity and water at some of them; opening times are seasonal, so check length limits and reservations with Colorado Parks and Wildlife. In Cortez, private RV parks offer hook-ups.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** On San Juan National Forest near Mancos and Dolores, dispersed camping is usually allowed for up to 14 days; fire bans in summer are common.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Deal with fresh water and rubbish in Cortez before the journey back. If you still have time, you can add Hovenweep National Monument (Utah) with its 13th-century towers, or visit the Wetherill section of Mesa Verde in a car instead of the motorhome.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- On the Navajo Nation (parts of Arizona, New Mexico, Utah), free camping and backcountry camping are not allowed without a permit from Navajo Nation Parks & Recreation; hiking off the trails often requires a permit as well. Alcohol is prohibited on Navajo land, and violations are prosecuted by Navajo Police.
- In the state of Colorado, dispersed camping on National Forest and BLM land is usually allowed for up to 14 days in one place, except in national parks, protected areas and marked closed zones; in summer fire restrictions often apply on forest and BLM land.
- In New Mexico, dispersed camping on BLM and National Forest land is also allowed; State Trust Land, by contrast, requires a permit. Streets and car parks in towns often prohibit overnighting in a vehicle.
- Photography: in the Navajo Nation, photograph people, hogans, herds and homesteads only with express permission; drone flights are prohibited in parks and on Navajo land. Do not enter sacred places such as Shiprock.
- Wildlife and terrain: rattlesnakes, scorpions and, in summer, flash floods in arroyos; never park in dry washes when thunderstorms are building. Sheep and horses roam freely on the road.
- Useful apps and sites: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, Recreation.gov (Chaco, Mesa Verde, Forest Service), the NPS pages of the individual parks. Navajo Nation Parks & Recreation for permits and fees.
- Observe the rules of conduct: on Navajo land hospitality is a matter of course, but questions about religion and ceremonies are unwelcome; please buy from trading posts and craftspeople fairly and without haggling.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Dump stations: Morefield Campground (Mesa Verde), Cottonwood Campground (Chinle) according to the operator, Red Rock Park (Gallup), Lions Wilderness Park or private RV parks in Farmington and Cortez. Ask about availability and fees in advance; Sanidumps.com lists stations.
- Drinking water: tap water in towns (Cortez, Gallup, Farmington) is drinkable; on the Navajo Nation there are households without running water, so bring containers and respect water points. Water is limited at Chaco and Canyon de Chelly.
- Fuel: fuel stations in Cortez, Teec Nos Pos/Mexican Water, Chinle, Ganado, Window Rock, Gallup, Shiprock, Farmington and Nageezi; between the towns it is often 80–100 km without a fuel station. Fill up at half a tank.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Cortez, Gallup, Farmington; Chinle and Window Rock have smaller supermarkets. Buy fresh produce before Chaco.
- Gas: propane in Cortez, Gallup and Farmington; European bottles need an adapter, and rental motorhomes have permanently installed US tanks.
- Electricity and mobile coverage: hook-ups only at individual sites; in the Navajo Nation and at Chaco there is often no reception. Download offline maps.
- Laundry and showers: coin laundries in Cortez, Gallup and Farmington; Morefield Village has showers and a laundrette.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits in mph: highways outside towns mostly 55–65, in built-up areas 25–35; Navajo Nation roads are narrow and have grazing livestock. Towing outfits should observe the respective state rules.
- Admission: Mesa Verde, Chaco, Aztec Ruins and Hubbell belong to the NPS; since 2026, visitors without US residence face partly higher fees or surcharges in heavily visited parks – check current amounts on nps.gov. Four Corners Monument and Navajo parks charge their own admission; Navajo Nation Parks & Recreation sells its own permits.
- Reservations: Cliff Palace and Balcony House tours via Recreation.gov, Gallo Campground likewise under the NPS's current rules; plan Morefield as early as possible.
- Dimensions and lengths: many access roads (Wetherill Mesa, CR 7900 to Chaco, Spider Rock Road) are unsuitable for long or heavy vehicles; the park road in Mesa Verde has climbs and tight bends. Maximum height in the USA is 13 ft 6 in (4.11 m) up to 14 ft.
- Time zones: the Navajo Nation observes daylight saving time, the rest of Arizona does not; the Hopi Reservation does not either. For opening hours, always go by local time.
- Weather and season: the best time is April to June and September to October; summer is hot with thunderstorms and flash floods, winter is cold with snow on the Mesa Verde plateau. Monsoon season is July to September; stay off roads after heavy rain.
- Traffic law for travellers: turning right on red after stopping is allowed unless prohibited; open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited, and on Navajo land alcohol is banned completely. A German driving licence is enough, an international one is often recommended.
- Emergency: 911; mobile phones have no reception over long stretches, and in the Navajo Nation help comes via Navajo Police and rangers. Watch out for heat, thunderstorms and altitude (Cortez 2,000 m, Mesa Verde over 2,100 m) and drink plenty.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Water containers (at least 20 l) and a drinking-water hose: there is little drinking water at Chaco, Canyon de Chelly and on long stages.
- Cash in small notes: Four Corners Monument, trading posts, admission fees and Navajo stalls often accept only cash.
- Head torch with red light and a star chart: the night skies at Chaco and Cortez are dark, and you don’t want to dazzle your eyes.
- Sturdy shoes and sun protection (hat, sun cream): the ruin trails at Chaco and Mesa Verde are dusty and shadeless.
- Emergency satellite communicator or offline maps: there is no mobile coverage in large parts of the Navajo Nation.
- Levelling ramps and a shovel: pitches on gravel and the access road to Chaco are uneven and slippery after rain.

_As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Stop-by-stop itinerary

1. **Cortez** (CO)
2. **Mesa Verde National Park** (Mancos, CO): Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings tucked under canyon overhangs. Ranger-led tours reach Cliff Palace.
3. **Teec Nos Pos** (AZ)
4. **Chinle** (AZ)
5. **Ganado** (AZ)
6. **Window Rock** (AZ)
7. **Gallup** (NM)
8. **Shiprock** (NM)
9. **Farmington** (NM)
10. **Chaco Culture National Historical Park** (Nageezi, NM): Great houses of the Ancestral Puebloan world, including Pueblo Bonito. The last 21 km of the approach from US-550 (CR 7900/7950) is rough dirt, impassable after rain and unsuitable for large RVs.
11. **Cortez** (CO)

## Best time to go

The most pleasant months are usually April–May and September–October. Still fine, with some compromises, in June and November. Hot in July–August. July and August are the busiest months: book campsites early. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## FAQs

**How long is Red rocks, ancient villages and big skies: by camper through Four Corners and the Navajo Nation?**
8-day round trip of about 859 km (534 mi) with 11 stops, starting and ending in Cortez. About 9 h 32 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Red rocks, ancient villages and big skies: by camper through Four Corners and the Navajo Nation?**
We suggest 8 days: about 9 h 32 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Red rocks, ancient villages and big skies: by camper through Four Corners and the Navajo Nation start and end?**
It is a round trip that starts and ends in Cortez.

**Which states does Red rocks, ancient villages and big skies: by camper through Four Corners and the Navajo Nation pass through?**
Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico.

**Where can you camp along Red rocks, ancient villages and big skies: by camper through Four Corners and the Navajo Nation?**
OpenStreetMap lists 37 campsites and motorhome stopovers within 19 mi of the stops on this route. For example: Sundance RV Park, Morefield Campground and USA RV Park.

**When is the best time for Red rocks, ancient villages and big skies: by camper through Four Corners and the Navajo Nation?**
The most pleasant months are usually April–May and September–October. Still fine, with some compromises, in June and November. (Estimate from long-term temperature averages, terrain and pass seasons)

## Part of these destinations

- [Mesa Verde National Park](https://camping-spirit.com/destinations/mesa-verde/)