# Capes, volcanoes and the Tramuntana – by camper from Barcelona along the Costa Brava and the Empordà to Girona

> Around 510 kilometres from the Maresme beaches via Tossa, Begur and the ruins of Empúries to Cap de Creus, then inland through Besalú and the volcanoes of…

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-041-costa-brava-catalonia/

**At a glance:** 8-day road trip of about 328 km (204 mi) with 14 stops, from Barcelona to Girona. About 4 h 32 min of driving in total. Around 510 kilometres from the Maresme beaches via Tossa, Begur and the ruins of Empúries to Cap de Creus, then inland through Besalú and the volcanoes of the Garrotxa to Girona: a route of many short stages in which coastal footpaths and basalt forests play the leading roles.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | 328 km (204 mi) |
| Driving | 4 h 32 min |
| Suggested days | 8 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Barcelona → Girona |
| Countries | Spain |
| Updated | September 30, 2026 |

*Around 510 kilometres from the Maresme beaches via Tossa, Begur and the ruins of Empúries to Cap de Creus, then inland through Besalú and the volcanoes of the Garrotxa to Girona: a route of many short stages in which coastal footpaths and basalt forests play the leading roles.*

## The spirit of the route

The Costa Brava is not a straight coastal road but a sequence of bends, pines and small coves where the water shifts from turquoise to deep blue. The camper rolls through cork-oak woodland down to Tossa, where the walls of the Vila Vella stand above the sea, and Begur’s castle looks over the coves of Aiguablava. Further north the landscape opens up: rice fields, lagoons and the flamingos of the Aiguamolls, then the rugged slate capes of Cadaqués, where the Tramuntana sweeps the sky clean and Dalí’s white fishermen’s houses stand at Portlligat. Turn inland and you find a Romanesque bridge at Besalú and beech forest on frozen lava in the Garrotxa. The distances are short – the appeal lies in getting out: on the Camí de Ronda, in the morning light on the ramparts, over the first coffee at the harbour.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Barcelona to Tossa de Mar (approx. 95 km)

- **The drive:** From Barcelona take the Ronda Litoral and the C-32 Nord (toll-free since its release in 2021) along the Maresme coast, then on via Blanes and Lloret de Mar to Tossa. The last 12 km or so on the GI-682 are twisty and in places narrow, with buses and queues in high season. Allow a good 2 hours of driving, considerably more at summer weekends.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Blanes: the Jardí Botànic Marimurtra on the cliffs above Cala Forcadera, with coastal views and Mediterranean flora from all over the world.
  - Lloret de Mar: the Jardins de Santa Clotilde, a Renaissance-style terraced garden on cliffs above the sea.
  - Tossa de Mar: the walled Vila Vella with its towers and lighthouse above the beach; in the evening walk the ramparts and continue on the Camí de Ronda to Cala Pola.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** There are hardly any motorhome pitches in Barcelona itself. The Àrea d’autocaravanes at the Colònia Güell in Santa Coloma de Cervelló lies on the edge of the city with an FGC rail link into the centre; only around 6 places, so check ahead. In the Maresme the Area Camper Barcelona Beach near Cabrera de Mar offers a pitch close to the coast, and several campsites such as Camping Barcelona near Mataró also lie along the route. In Tossa itself, Càmping Tossa and Càmping Cala Llevadó sit a little outside the old town; both are seasonal, so book early in summer.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Sleeping in your vehicle is not banned in Catalonia as such, but camping behaviour (chairs, awning, levelling legs) is prohibited outside campsites and pitches. In summer the coastal municipalities of Lloret de Mar, Blanes and Tossa often ban overnighting in vehicles on public land and carry out checks; signs and local ordinances take precedence. Fines vary greatly by municipality and protection status and can reach four figures in protected areas.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Barcelona’s low-emission zone (ZBE Rondes, Mon–Fri 7 am–8 pm) also applies to foreign motorhomes: vehicles without a Spanish environmental sticker need to register with the metropolitan register (zberegistre.ambmobilitat.cat), otherwise a fine of around 200 euros is possible; older diesels and petrol vehicles are excluded. If you want to visit the city centre, park on the outskirts and go in by train or metro. Tossa’s old town is closed to motorhomes; use the campsites and walk.

### Stage 2: Tossa de Mar to Begur (approx. 70 km)

- **The drive:** Take the coast road GI-682 to Sant Feliu de Guíxols, then via S’Agaró, Platja d’Aro and Palamós to Palafrugell and up to Begur. The stretch Tossa–Sant Feliu is the twistiest of the whole route, with cliff views and tight hairpins; drive it slowly, and even more so with a trailer or a long motorhome. Beyond Palamós the road is wider but slow in summer traffic. Around 2 hours.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Camí de Ronda between Sant Feliu de Guíxols and S’Agaró: the coastal path past coves and villas, a walk of a good hour.
  - Jardí Botànic Cap Roig near Calella de Palafrugell: a terraced garden above the cliffs; a concert series runs in summer.
  - Begur: the castle above the old town with a panorama over the coast, plus the coves of Aiguablava and Sa Tuna and the houses of the Indianos, who returned from Cuba.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Càmping Begur lies at Begur and Càmping Tamariu at Tamariu; both fill up early in summer. Around Palamós you will find Camping Palamós, Internacional Palamos and Camping Costa Brava, in Santa Cristina d’Aro the Àrea d’Autocaravanes Santa Cristina d’Aro and in S’Agaró the S’Agaró Àrea (a small site with electricity, check the current status beforehand). Outside high season the choice of pitches stays more flexible.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Palamós, Pals and Sant Antoni de Calonge are known for motorhome bans, in places day and night; expect signs banning motorhomes and caravans at beach car parks. The coastal strips fall under coastal law (Ley de Costas), and the municipalities check strictly in summer. Campsites and motorhome pitches are the legal option.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Drive the Tossa–Sant Feliu road in the morning and outside holiday weekends, before the coaches and day-trippers are out. Fuelling up and shopping are straightforward in Palafrugell and Palamós; the coastal villages beyond have only small shops. In Begur and Pals the old-town lanes and car parks are tight; park at the edge of the village and walk. Palafrugell has a market on Sundays.

### Stage 3: Begur to L’Escala (approx. 55 km)

- **The drive:** From Begur via Pals to Torroella de Montgrí, then either directly or via L’Estartit to the Bay of Roses and on to L’Escala. Flat through rice fields and orchards, with some shelter from the wind behind the Montgrí slopes; only the access roads to the capes are narrow. About 1.5 hours.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Pals: a medieval village centre with the Torre de les Hores and a view over the rice fields to the sea; if time allows, add Peratallada and the Iberian town of Ullastret.
  - Torroella de Montgrí: the castle on the limestone crag above the town, with a wide view over the Empordà.
  - L’Estartit and the Illes Medes: the marine reserve off the coast, which you can experience by glass-bottom boat or by snorkelling.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In L’Escala you will find the Àrea de L’Escala (a small motorhome site) as well as the campsites Càmping L’Escala and Illa Mateua Camping Resort near Sant Martí d’Empúries. Near Torroella are the Àrea Massís del Montgrí Camper Park and the Àrea Camper La Tallada d’Empordà; in L’Estartit the campsites Càmping Estartit and Càmping Castell Montgrí. Check opening times and availability beforehand.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** L’Estartit bans motorhomes from public car parks, and in the Montgrí massif too overnighting outside designated sites is prohibited. The Aiguamolls to the north and the coastal lagoons are protected. The legal option is the pitch or the campsite.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The Empúries excavation site (the Greek Neapolis and the Roman city) is the highlight of the day: visit in the morning while it is cooler, then walk over to Sant Martí d’Empúries afterwards. In L’Escala anchovies (anxoves) are the speciality, traditionally salted and preserved. The Tramuntana can bring whole days of gale here: take in the awning before you leave the pitch.

### Stage 4: L’Escala to Roses (approx. 45 km)

- **The drive:** From L’Escala north via Sant Pere Pescador and Castelló d’Empúries to Empuriabrava and Roses. Flat coastal land between lagoons and canals, well-built country roads with a number of roundabouts; in a Tramuntana the open plain is very exposed to the wind. Around 1 hour of pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l’Empordà: the wetland with observation hides, flamingos and migratory birds; visitor centre El Cortalet.
  - Castelló d’Empúries: the Gothic basilica of Santa Maria, called the “Cathedral of the Empordà” because of its size.
  - Roses: the Ciutadella, a 16th-century fortress with remains of a Greek settlement; also the beach of Santa Margarida.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Roses lies the Autocaravaningpark Roses, a motorhome park with around 70 pitches, electricity, service point and sanitary facilities (check the fees beforehand). In Empuriabrava there is the Empuriabrava Autocaravaning and, nearby, a free zone whose status changes – follow the signs. Peralada has a service site for motorhomes. The campsites around Roses and Empuriabrava are numerous but fill up quickly in summer.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The Aiguamolls nature reserve is no place to overnight: tents, camping and fires are prohibited. In Roses and Empuriabrava, too, overnighting in a vehicle outside the sites is mostly banned in summer. The legal options are the motorhome parks and campsites.
- **Insider tip for campers:** In the Empordà mosquitoes are a nuisance in early summer and after rain – pack mosquito nets and repellent. In a gale never park the vehicle side-on to the wind. In summer the main road through Roses is heavily loaded; drive in the morning.

### Stage 5: Roses to Cadaqués (approx. 25 km)

- **The drive:** From Roses on the GI-614 through the Cap de Creus natural park to Cadaqués: many bends over the Coll de Perafita, in places narrow and without a verge, with views of pines, slate and sea. About 45 minutes without stops, longer in summer with oncoming traffic. In a Tramuntana the pass summit is exposed to gales.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Cadaqués: white houses around the bay, the church of Santa Maria and the lanes between the harbour and the viewpoint.
  - Portlligat: the house of Salvador Dalí, which can only be visited with an advance ticket for a fixed time slot.
  - Cap de Creus: the easternmost point of the peninsula with its lighthouse, rock formations and walking trails; closed to private vehicles in summer (see tip).
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Cadaqués lies Càmping Cadaqués (Wecamp group) on the edge of the village with electricity, sanitary facilities, a pool and a restaurant; book early in summer. On the next stage you come to Càmping Port de la Selva in Port de la Selva; in Roses the Autocaravaningpark Roses remains the alternative. Motorhome pitches in Cadaqués itself are rare.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Camping is prohibited in the Cap de Creus natural park, and overnighting in a vehicle at the coves and on the way to the lighthouse is not allowed; in summer the park wardens patrol these zones. The only legal options are the campsite in Cadaqués or a pitch in Roses.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Access to Cap de Creus: in summer 2026 the road to the lighthouse was closed to motor vehicles daily from 9.30 am to 9.30 pm from 20 June to 31 August, and motorhomes were not allowed up. Instead a shuttle runs from Cadaqués (Corral d’en Morell car park) to the lighthouse; a return trip most recently cost 7 euros. Check the autumn and winter dates beforehand with the park administration or the municipality. Book Dalí’s house at Portlligat online in good time.

### Stage 6: Cadaqués to Figueres (approx. 90 km)

- **The drive:** Back on the GI-614 to Roses, then on the C-260 via Llançà to Port de la Selva, up to the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes and via Vilajuïga to Figueres. The climb to the monastery is narrow and twisty; otherwise good country roads. About 2 hours without sightseeing.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Port de la Selva: a fishing village with white lanes, its harbour and the bay.
  - Monestir de Sant Pere de Rodes: a Romanesque monastery complex high above the sea with views as far as Cap de Creus.
  - Figueres: the Teatre-Museu Dalí, which Dalí designed himself, plus the Castell de Sant Ferran.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Figueres itself has no designated motorhome pitches in the centre; the service site in Peralada is a nearby alternative. More campsites lie inland and on the coast at Llançà and Port de la Selva. Check opening times beforehand.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Overnighting is banned in the monastery car park and at the viewpoints of Sant Pere de Rodes (Cap de Creus natural park), and in Figueres the town regularly checks car parks on the outskirts. Do not count on tolerance.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Reserve tickets for the Teatre-Museu Dalí online in advance and check the time slot. In Figueres park on the outskirts; underground car parks have height limits. Thursday is market day. Do your water and cassette before driving into the Garrotxa: there are only a few service points there.

### Stage 7: Figueres to Olot (approx. 60 km)

- **The drive:** From Figueres on the N-260 (Eix Pirinenc) to Besalú, then on via Castellfollit de la Roca to Olot. A good, partly twisty road through hills and river valleys, noticeably more rural beyond Besalú. About 1 hour.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Besalú: the Romanesque fortified bridge over the Fluvià, the medieval Jewish quarter with the Miqvé (ritual bath) and the monastery of Sant Pere.
  - Castellfollit de la Roca: the village on a basalt cliff about 50 m high above the confluence of the Fluvià and the Toronell.
  - Olot: the Montsacopa volcano with its crater in the middle of town, and the Museu dels Volcans in the Parc Nou.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Near Besalú lies Camping Besalú not far from the old town; check opening and facilities beforehand. Near Olot are the Àrea d’autocaravanes Sant Joan les Fonts (around 20 pitches) and, close to the Fageda d’en Jordà, Càmping La Fageda; also Càmping Les Preses Natura and Camping Lava Ecològic.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Tents and camping are prohibited in the natural park of the Garrotxa volcanic zone; the car parks in the beech woods can be used during the day. In Besalú and Olot the municipalities steer motorhomes to the designated sites. In high wildfire risk, access to forests can be closed.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Besalú has a market on Tuesdays; the old town is tight, so park the vehicle on the outskirts. Castellfollit de la Roca lies on the road: the car park at the viewpoint is small. Olot has a market on Mondays. The park asks for care with fire: open fires and barbecues in Catalan forests are generally banned from 15 March to 15 October, with additional access restrictions at high risk (Pla Alfa); check the current status beforehand.

### Stage 8: Olot to Girona (approx. 70 km)

- **The drive:** From Olot via Santa Pau and the Fageda d’en Jordà to Banyoles and on via the C-66 to Girona. Through beech forest, hills and farmland, mostly well-built country roads with short, narrow village streets. About 1.5 hours.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Fageda d’en Jordà: beech forest on frozen lava with walking trails; the volcanic field of the Garrotxa with craters such as Santa Margarida and Croscat. Also Santa Pau with its medieval centre and the Firal dels Bous square.
  - Banyoles: the lake Estany with a lakeside path, the rowing course of the 1992 Olympic Games.
  - Girona: the Barri Vell with the cathedral, the colourful houses on the Onyar and the Call, the old Jewish quarter.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Santa Pau lies the Area Municipal Santa Pau with around 25 pitches (water, electricity, waste disposal; fee-charging, maximum 48 hours, book ahead). In Girona there is the Area Autocaravanes Vayreda La Devesa next to the Parc de la Devesa (fee-charging, with service point and electricity, check the current status beforehand) and, most recently, a municipal area in the Domeny district (free, maximum stay 72 hours, check the current status). South of Girona, at Caldes de Malavella, there is a small motorhome site.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Girona has no tolerance for wild overnighting: in the city parking applies, not camping, and checks are frequent. Use the designated site.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Girona has a ZBE (Mon–Fri 7 am–8 pm) with 20 cameras; vehicles without a sticker may enter up to 24 days a year, after that a fine of 200 euros (100 euros if paid within 20 days). Park on the outskirts and walk into the old town. For the return to Barcelona (about 100 km) the AP-7 is toll-free; the train (AVE) takes less than 40 minutes. The Catalan government is examining reintroducing tolls on the AP-7 – check the current status before you travel.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- Spanish traffic law treats a motorhome that is regularly parked and used only for sleeping as a parked vehicle. As soon as you settle in – awning, table and chair, levelling legs or wedges, roof tent, draining water – it counts as camping. In Catalonia, moreover, the natural spaces law (Llei 12/1985) and the tourism decree (Decret 75/2020) provide that camping is allowed only on authorised sites; municipalities may impose stricter rules.
- On the Costa Brava the rules are especially strict in summer: many coastal municipalities (Lloret de Mar, Blanes, Tossa, Palamós, Pals, Cadaqués, Estartit) ban the parking and overnighting of motorhomes in public car parks, in places with “prohibit autocaravanes” signs. Fines of roughly 60 to 600 euros are usual, and in protected areas they can reach four figures.
- Tents and camping are prohibited in the natural parks of Cap de Creus, Aiguamolls de l’Empordà and the Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa; the car parks can be used during the day. Open fires and barbecues are generally banned in forests from 15 March to 15 October; at high risk, access to forests can be closed.
- You can legally overnight at campsites and in the municipal or private motorhome sites (“àrees d’autocaravanes”), which are often limited to 48 to 72 hours. Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact, Areasac. The Tramuntana, the cold north wind, often blows at gale force in the Empordà; secure your motorhome well when outdoors.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Service points: motorhome sites and many campsites have service stations; many work with coins or card, some only for guests. In the Garrotxa and the hinterland the stations are rare – fill up and empty before driving inland.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the stations, not in drains or on the ground; penalties for dumping in nature are high.
- Tap water in Catalonia is mostly drinkable, but on the coast it often tastes of chlorine. In drought years local water-saving measures apply – follow the notices of the municipalities.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not swapped in Spain; Campingaz cylinders are widespread (also in supermarkets and at petrol stations), while the Spanish butane cylinder (Repsol) has its own connector. Autogas (LPG) is less common at petrol stations than in France; depending on the station you need an ACME, Dish or bayonet adapter – bring an adapter set and a full spare.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t drive like cars – motorway and expressway 120 km/h, on country roads outside built-up areas 90 km/h, in towns mostly 50 km/h, in residential streets 30 or 20 km/h. Above 3.5 t it is 90 km/h on the motorway and 80 km/h outside built-up areas; vehicle-trailer combinations 90 and 80 km/h respectively. On Barcelona’s Ronda 80 km/h applies, in the city mostly 30 km/h. Speed cameras and section control are frequent.
- Low-emission zones: the ZBE Rondes de Barcelona (Mon–Fri 7 am–8 pm) and the ZBE Girona (Mon–Fri 7 am–8 pm) exclude vehicles without a sticker. Foreign vehicles must register with the metropolitan register for Barcelona; Girona lets vehicles without a sticker in up to 24 days a year. Fine 200 euros.
- Tolls: no vignette. The AP-7 between La Jonquera, Girona and Barcelona has been toll-free since 1 September 2021, as has the C-32 Nord in the Maresme; tolls remain, for example, on the Vallvidrera tunnels (C-16) in Barcelona and the C-32 Sud towards Tarragona. An electronic device (Vía-T) is not needed on this route. The Catalan government is examining reintroducing tolls on the AP-7 – check the current status.
- Emergencies: since 1 January 2026 the connected V16 warning light has been mandatory for vehicles registered in Spain and replaces the warning triangles. According to the DGT, vehicles registered abroad may continue to carry the warning triangles required in their own country; even so, a V16 (around 50 euros) is advisable. A high-visibility vest is compulsory; for Spanish vehicles a missing V16 costs 80 euros.
- Warning panel: if a load – such as bicycles on a rear carrier – projects beyond the rear, the reflective warning panel (50 × 50 cm, V-20) is compulsory.
- Alcohol and phone: 0.5 per mille, 0.3 for novice and professional drivers. Using a phone at the wheel is prohibited, with a fine of 200 euros and penalty points; hands-free only.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Storm guy lines and pegs for the awning: the Tramuntana in the Empordà often blows at gale force and rips awnings off walls.
- A V16 warning light plus a high-visibility vest in the glovebox: it is compulsory for Spanish vehicles in Spain and a sensible safeguard for you.
- An adapter set for autogas (ACME, Dish, bayonet) and a Campingaz cylinder as a spare: German cylinders cannot be exchanged.
- Sturdy walking shoes or water sandals for the Camí de Ronda and the rocky coves from Begur to Cadaqués.
- Mosquito nets and repellent: the Aiguamolls and the coastal lagoons are full of mosquitoes.
- Printed or offline-saved tickets for the Teatre-Museu Dalí and the house at Portlligat, both with a fixed time slot.

_As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Sources

- [DGT – Dispositivos de preseñalización V16](https://www.dgt.es/muevete-con-seguridad/tecnologia-e-innovacion-en-carretera/Dispositivos-de-presenalizacion-V16/)
- [Àrea Metropolitana de Barcelona – Registre i autorització de vehicles (ZBE)](https://zberegistre.ambmobilitat.cat/)
- [Àrea Metropolitana de Barcelona – ZBE: preguntes freqüents](https://www.amb.cat/ca/web/mobilitat/mobilitat-sostenible/zbe/zones-baixes-emissions/faqs)
- [Parcs naturals de Catalunya (Generalitat) – Regulació d'activitats](https://parcsnaturals.gencat.cat/ca/detalls/Article/Regulacio-dactivitats-00005)
- [Parcs naturals de Catalunya (Generalitat) – Normativa del Parc Natural del Cap de Creus](https://parcsnaturals.gencat.cat/ca/xarxa-de-parcs/cap-creus/coneix-la-nostra-feina/normativa-parc/index.html)
- [Parcs naturals de Catalunya (Generalitat) – Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa](https://parcsnaturals.gencat.cat/es/xarxa-de-parcs/fitxes-dels-parcs/fitxa-garrotxa/index.html)
- [Museu d'Arqueologia de Catalunya – Planifica la visita a Empúries](https://www.mac.cat/ca/Visita-ns-Portada/Empuries-Portada-Seu/Planifica-la-visita-Empuries)

## Stop-by-stop itinerary

1. **Barcelona** (Spain)
2. **Tossa de Mar** (Spain)
3. **Sant Feliu de Guíxols** (Spain)
4. **Begur** (Spain)
5. **Pals** (Spain)
6. **L'Escala** (Spain)
7. **Roses** (Spain)
8. **Cadaqués** (Spain)
9. **Figueres** (Spain)
10. **Besalú** (Spain)
11. **Olot** (Spain)
12. **Santa Pau** (Spain)
13. **Banyoles** (Spain)
14. **Girona** (Spain)

## FAQs

**How long is Capes, volcanoes and the Tramuntana – by camper from Barcelona along the Costa Brava and the Empordà to Girona?**
8-day road trip of about 328 km (204 mi) with 14 stops, from Barcelona to Girona. About 4 h 32 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Capes, volcanoes and the Tramuntana – by camper from Barcelona along the Costa Brava and the Empordà to Girona?**
We suggest 8 days: about 4 h 32 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Capes, volcanoes and the Tramuntana – by camper from Barcelona along the Costa Brava and the Empordà to Girona start and end?**
It starts in Barcelona and ends in Girona.

**Which countries does Capes, volcanoes and the Tramuntana – by camper from Barcelona along the Costa Brava and the Empordà to Girona pass through?**
Spain.