# Flower Riviera, Saracen villages and rocky harbours – by motorhome along Liguria’s coast to the Cinque Terre

> 7-day road trip of about 283 km (176 mi) with 14 stops, from Ventimiglia to Lerici. About 3 h 54 min of driving in total.

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-028-liguria-cinque-terre/

**At a glance:** 7-day road trip of about 283 km (176 mi) with 14 stops, from Ventimiglia to Lerici. About 3 h 54 min of driving in total. From Ventimiglia via Dolceacqua, Finale Ligure, Genoa and Camogli to Levanto and the Gulf of Poets: about 365 km of coastal route on which you experience the finest stretches by train, boat and bike – and leave the motorhome parked in the right places.

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | 283 km (176 mi) |
| Driving | 3 h 54 min |
| Suggested days | 7 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Ventimiglia → Lerici |
| Countries | Italy |
| Updated | April 27, 2026 |

*From Ventimiglia via Dolceacqua, Finale Ligure, Genoa and Camogli to Levanto and the Gulf of Poets: about 365 km of coastal route on which you experience the finest stretches by train, boat and bike – and leave the motorhome parked in the right places.*

## The spirit of the route

Liguria is a narrow strip of land between mountains and sea, and you feel that with every kilometre. The Aurelia clings to the rock, dives into tunnels, winds around headlands and squeezes through towns where the houses reach right up to the carriageway. In the morning the air smells of pine, salt and focaccia, and on the terraces behind the coast olives, vines and basil grow. From your sliding door you see fishing boats in Camogli, ochre facades above the harbour of Portofino, the Saracen houses of Varigotti and, in the evening, the lights of the ships off Genoa. This route demands respect for narrow roads: the Cinque Terre, Portofino and Portovenere are best reached by train, bus or boat. In return it gives you cycle paths on old railway lines, coastal trails high above the sea and evenings in squares where the surf is louder than the traffic.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Ventimiglia to Sanremo (via Dolceacqua) (approx. 35 km)

- **The drive:** From Ventimiglia take the provincial road into the Nervia valley via Camporosso to Dolceacqua (just under 10 km, wide and flat), then return to the coast and follow the Aurelia SS1 via Vallecrosia and Bordighera to Sanremo. Here the Aurelia is a town street with traffic lights, roundabouts and scooters coming from left and right. Pure driving time is a good hour, noticeably more in summer.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Dolceacqua: the stone-arched bridge over the Nervia beneath the ruins of the Castello dei Doria – Claude Monet painted the scene in 1884; have a glass of Rossese di Dolceacqua in one of the wine bars in town.
  - Ventimiglia Alta: the old town on the hill with its Romanesque cathedral and a view back towards the Côte d’Azur.
  - Giardini Botanici Hanbury at La Mortola, about 6 km west of Ventimiglia: a terraced garden of palms, agaves and citrus above the sea.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Villaggio dei Fiori on the western edge of Sanremo, right on the coastal cycle path: generous pitches with electricity, good sanitary facilities, service point, open all year according to the operator. Book in high season and at Easter.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** At car park P6 in Dolceacqua, about 900 m from the centre (across the new bridge, near the cycle and footpath), there is a simple gravel motorhome area with a camper service point; according to user reports it is free of charge in 2026 and suitable for a quiet night. Under Italian law only parking is allowed there, not camping – no chairs, no awning. On the coast between Ventimiglia and Sanremo, seafront car parks often have motorhome bans or height barriers.
- **Insider tip for campers:** On Fridays Ventimiglia holds its big weekly market on the banks of the Roia – the riverside and access roads are then jammed and parking for motorhomes is practically impossible to find. Come on another day or by train. The valley road beyond Dolceacqua towards Isolabona and Pigna becomes narrower; better not to take large vehicles on a side trip into the hinterland.

### Stage 2: Sanremo to Finale Ligure (via Albenga) (approx. 80 km)

- **The drive:** Follow the Aurelia SS1 via Imperia, Cervo, Alassio, Albenga, Loano and Pietra Ligure to Finale Ligure. The road follows every bay and passes through countless town centres with traffic lights and zebra crossings; allow 2.5 to 3 hours. If you want to save time, drive some sections on the A10 (Autostrada dei Fiori) with its long tunnel and viaduct stretches and take only the most beautiful coastal sections, such as between Cervo and Alassio, on the Aurelia.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Cycle path in the Parco Costiero Riviera dei Fiori: paved former railway line from Ospedaletti via Sanremo to San Lorenzo al Mare, with tunnels and sea views – best early in the morning before you set off.
  - Cervo: a village on a rocky spur with the Baroque church of San Giovanni Battista, known as “dei Corallini” because of its facade.
  - Albenga: medieval old town with tower houses and an early Christian baptistery; the old Roman road Via Julia Augusta leads here from Alassio as a footpath above the sea.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Finale Ligure the municipal Area Sosta Caprazoppa sits panoramically on the cliff west of the centre: room for about 100 motorhomes on gravel according to listings, barrier and payment by app, service point, toilets and showers, no electricity, stay limited in time, awnings and furniture prohibited. After storm damage the site was closed in January 2026 according to user reports – check the current status beforehand. With electricity and sanitary facilities: Campeggio Del Mulino on Via Castelli above the centre, quiet with a view of the town and sea; ask about pitch lengths in advance.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Albenga used to have a free motorhome area on the piazzale next to the railway line (Piazza Onorevole Bolla); users reported as early as 2023 that motorhomes are no longer tolerated there. Follow the signs on site. Along the Riviera di Ponente, free overnight spots by the sea are rare; many municipalities have banned motorhomes from beach car parks by ordinance.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Albenga is the centre of the Riviera’s vegetable and herb growing: you can buy the violet asparagus and “Cuore di bue” tomatoes directly from the farms on the plain. Fuel at motorway service areas is noticeably more expensive than at filling stations along the Aurelia or at supermarkets in the hinterland.

### Stage 3: Finale Ligure to Bogliasco (Genoa) (approx. 85 km)

- **The drive:** On the Aurelia over the headland at Varigotti, through Noli and Spotorno to Savona (about 25 km, winding, with short tunnels at Capo Noli), then on the A10 past Varazze and Arenzano and over the Ponte San Giorgio to Genoa; take the A12 to the Genova Nervi exit and continue on the Aurelia to Bogliasco. Just under 2 hours without stops; Genoa’s city traffic is unpredictable.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Varigotti: the low, pastel-coloured Saracen houses right on the beach and the Baia dei Saraceni; from the hamlet the Sentiero del Pellegrino leads over Punta Crena and the ruins of San Lorenzo Vecchio to Noli.
  - Finalborgo: walled old town behind Finale Ligure with a view of Castel Gavone – plus the limestone cliffs of the hinterland, one of Italy’s best-known climbing and mountain-biking areas.
  - Genoa: the Palazzi dei Rolli on Via Garibaldi (UNESCO World Heritage), the alleys (“caruggi”) of the old town, the Porto Antico and, in the evening, the fishing quarter of Boccadasse.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Genova Est on the hillside above Bogliasco, east of the city: terraced pitches with electricity, sanitary facilities, service point, open seasonally (according to listings from late March to mid-October, motorhomes up to about 9 m only); the approach is steep and narrow, so check the length of large vehicles in advance. Regional trains run from Bogliasco to Genova Brignole in about 15 minutes. West of the city are Camping Villa Doria in Pegli and the Caravan Park La Vesima on the Aurelia.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Genoa itself there is no legal free camping in the camping sense. For a day visit by motorhome, the city portal names the Marina Park car park on Via della Marina with its own motorhome rates (according to the city portal hourly up to 7 hours, a day rate beyond that); equipped pitches with waste disposal are offered by Pons Caravan. Check rates beforehand.
- **Insider tip for campers:** On the A10 between Spotorno and Finale Ligure (Galleria Orco), a tunnel renovation has been under way since 28 September 2026 until shortly before Christmas: the carriageway towards Savona is closed and traffic runs two-way on the other carriageway – one more reason to take the Aurelia as far as Savona; check the current situation with the motorway operator. The Aurelia between Arenzano and Vesima is repeatedly closed after rockfalls; in heavy rain (“allerta rossa”) Liguria’s civil protection also closes coastal roads at short notice. Genoa’s old town is a ZTL with cameras.

### Stage 4: Bogliasco to Santa Margherita Ligure (via Camogli) (approx. 30 km)

- **The drive:** On the Aurelia SS1 via Sori and Recco, then up to Ruta and over the saddle on Monte di Portofino down to Rapallo and Santa Margherita. Narrow and winding, with retaining walls right beside the carriageway and buses coming the other way; the approach down into the centre of Camogli is steep and narrow. About an hour, half a day with a stop in Camogli.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Camogli: the tall, colourful house fronts above the fishing harbour and the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta on its rocky point.
  - San Fruttuoso: the Benedictine abbey in a bay with no road access – by boat from Camogli or on foot through the Parco di Portofino from San Rocco or Ruta (demanding, with chain-secured sections on the route over the batteries).
  - Portofino: the Piazzetta, Castello Brown and the path to the lighthouse at Punta del Capo – from the motorhome only by bus, boat or on foot.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Municipal Area Camper in Santa Margherita Ligure on Via Garibotti, about 2.5 km from the harbour: a good dozen asphalt pitches, fresh water and grey water, no black water according to user reports, no electricity. About €25 per 24 hours according to 2025 reports; trains and a substation can be heard at night. For electricity and sanitary facilities, campsites in the hinterland of Rapallo and Chiavari are an option.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In Camogli, a temporary ban on stopping and parking for motorhomes and caravans was imposed by ordinance in January 2024 on the car park on Via Molfino because of the unstable cliffs (until the end of the stabilisation works); check the signs on site to see whether it still applies in 2026. A paid car park in Ruta on the Aurelia with a bus stop is a good day-parking option. Camping is prohibited in the Portofino Regional Park.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Do not drive to Portofino in the motorhome: the SP227 from Santa Margherita is narrow, without passing places, and Portofino has no pitches for motorhomes. In season a traffic filter at Cervara regulates access and private vehicles are stopped when the car parks are full; the municipality sets the periods anew each year. Whether a motorhome ban is also signposted should be checked on site. Scheduled bus or boat from Santa Margherita or Rapallo is more convenient.

### Stage 5: Santa Margherita Ligure to Levanto (via Sestri Levante) (approx. 65 km)

- **The drive:** On the Aurelia via Zoagli, Chiavari and Lavagna to Sestri Levante (about 25 km, coastal road with galleries). From Sestri take the A12 to Carrodano and the SP566 in many hairpins down to Levanto. The coastal road from Sestri through the single-lane, traffic-light-controlled tunnels of the old railway line only goes as far as Moneglia and Deiva Marina, not to Levanto; note the height limits at the tunnel entrances. Just under 2 hours in total.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Sestri Levante: the Baia del Silenzio between colourful houses and the Baia delle Favole, plus the path up to Punta Manara with a view over the Gulf of Tigullio.
  - Moneglia: fishing village with a seafront promenade, reached via the tunnel road from Riva Trigoso.
  - Ciclopedonale Maremonti: cycle and footpath through the tunnels of the old railway line from Levanto via Bonassola to Framura, with windows to the sea.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Area Sosta Moltedi in Levanto behind the station, on the road towards the motorway: paid, about 16 motorhome pitches plus car park, service point, a few minutes’ walk to the train. Not entirely quiet because of the road. With electricity and sanitary facilities: Camping Acqua Dolce near the town centre, a few hundred metres from the beach; give the length in advance for larger vehicles. More campsites lie on the edge of town and in the hills.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The Cinque Terre National Park begins directly beyond Levanto. The park expressly prohibits sleeping in a motorhome in car parks or pitching tents. In Bonassola, on the Lungomare Discovolo, there is a car park with spaces for motorhomes without services, listed as usable for motorhomes only from October to May, paid – check the current signage.
- **Insider tip for campers:** On the A12 between Lavagna and Sestri Levante, roadworks with lane switches (one lane in each direction) begin on 12 October 2026, and from 2 November the Lavagna entrance (on-ramp) towards Genoa is also closed; check the current plan with the motorway operator. The SP566 down to Levanto is wide enough, but downhill it calls for low gears – spare your brakes.

### Stage 6: Levanto (Cinque Terre by train) to La Spezia (approx. 45 km)

- **The drive:** You spend the day in the Cinque Terre by train: from Levanto to Monterosso it is a few minutes, to Riomaggiore about 20 minutes. In the afternoon or the next morning, return over the SP566 to Carrodano and on the A12 to La Spezia, about 45 minutes. The high roads above the villages (SP38, Litoranea SP370) are narrow, without passing places, and the villages have no parking – unsuitable for motorhomes.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Sentiero Azzurro from Monterosso to Vernazza and on to Corniglia: the classic coastal path with steps, vineyard terraces and a view of Vernazza’s harbour. The Corniglia–Manarola section has been closed for years after a landslide; the alternative route is via Volastra, so check the current status with the national park.
  - Via dell’Amore between Riomaggiore and Manarola: since reopening in 2024 only with a booked time slot (maximum 30 minutes) and in one direction only, from Riomaggiore to Manarola.
  - Manarola in the evening: the houses above the rocky harbour seen from the viewpoint path by the cemetery.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Area Camper ATCPM in La Spezia (Loc. Pagliari): about 36 asphalt pitches, electricity hook-ups for a fee, hot showers, service point, accessible around the clock by machine and barrier, registration with ID at the terminal. Bus to the centre about 500 m away. Some road noise according to users.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In and above the five villages there is no possibility of free camping. Monterosso has the Area Sosta Il Poggio (SP38, about 3 km above the village), a small equipped site with a good dozen pitches, electricity and waste disposal plus a shuttle down to the village – only worthwhile with a reservation. At the Fegina beach car park in Monterosso motorhomes are according to listings admitted only in the low season (mid-September to late March); check the status beforehand.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The Cinque Terre Treno Card includes unlimited trips on the regional trains between Levanto and La Spezia, the paid hiking trails and the park buses; the Trekking Card covers only trails and buses. Prices in 2026 depend on the season. Buy the card online or at the information points in the stations; it is valid on the chosen date and, according to the park, does not need to be validated. The Via dell’Amore additionally requires booking the time slot. Trains run frequently in summer but are overcrowded at midday – start early.

### Stage 7: La Spezia to Ameglia (via Lerici, Portovenere by boat) (approx. 25 km)

- **The drive:** You reach Portovenere without the motorhome: by boat from the Passeggiata Morin in La Spezia or by scheduled bus. Then drive the motorhome along the waterfront road via San Terenzo to Lerici, on up to Montemarcello and downhill to the mouth of the Magra at Bocca di Magra and Ameglia. The route over the promontory is narrow and winding; about 45 minutes.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Portovenere: the church of San Pietro on the rock above the sea, the Grotta Byron and the Doria fortress; opposite lies the island of Palmaria, reached by ferry.
  - Lerici: the castle above the harbour and the waterfront path to San Terenzo with the Villa Magni, where Percy Shelley lived – hence the name “Golfo dei Poeti”.
  - Tellaro: fishing village on the cliffs at the end of a narrow dead-end road; reach it on foot or by bus from Lerici, not by motorhome.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping River near Ameglia: open seasonally – ask in advance about facilities for motorhomes (electricity, service point), the end of the season and pitch lengths. The small Camping Maralunga in Lerici is no longer in operation according to user reports – check beforehand.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Motorhomes are not allowed into the centre of Portovenere. According to the municipal website there is the Area Il Golfo in Cavo (about 1.5 km away, about 20 spaces, water and waste disposal, paid by the hour in high season, bus) and a shared car park with a few motorhome spaces in Le Grazie; on Via Olivo, user reports say only a few spaces without services remain. Check rates and opening beforehand. The Montemarcello-Magra-Vara Regional Park prohibits camping; free overnighting at viewpoints is not tolerated.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The SP530 to Portovenere is narrow, runs through Le Grazie and Fezzano with parked cars on both sides and ends in a village that is almost always full. The boat from La Spezia runs several times a day in season; some boats continue to the Cinque Terre. In Lerici itself, parking for motorhomes is scarce – better to come in by bus from the direction of Sarzana or Ameglia.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): a motorhome may park, including overnight, wherever parking is allowed. Camping behaviour is prohibited – chairs, tables, awning, extended stabilisers, wedges, grey water on the ground.
- Liguria’s coastal municipalities restrict this heavily: many beach and harbour car parks carry motorhome ban signs or height barriers, Camogli has at times barred motorhomes by ordinance from the car park on Via Molfino, and Portovenere keeps motorhomes out of the centre and points them to a few spaces outside. Expect fines and towing.
- In the Cinque Terre National Park, sleeping in a motorhome in car parks and camping in tents are expressly prohibited. Camping is likewise prohibited in the Portofino and Montemarcello-Magra-Vara regional parks.
- You can stay overnight legally on campsites and in the “aree di sosta camper”, whose rules (maximum stay, app payment, awning ban) are often strict. Useful: CamperOnline (Italian directory of motorhome pitches with current user reports), park4night, Campercontact.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Service points are called “camper service” or “carico e scarico” in Italy; stations can be found in Dolceacqua, Finale Ligure, Levanto and La Spezia, often operated with coins, tokens or an app. Not every site accepts black water – in Santa Margherita, for example, only grey water according to users.
- Never empty the cassette or grey water into drains or on car parks: in the narrow coastal towns this is one of the main reasons for the motorhome bans.
- Tap water in Liguria is generally drinkable but often tastes of chlorine; look for “acqua potabile” at service stations. In high summer water is scarce in some places – fill your tank on the campsites.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at GPL filling stations using the Italian dish adapter; often only staff do the filling, and foreign exchange cylinders are not refilled. Arrive with two full cylinders.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on the motorway (110 km/h in the wet); over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas, 100 km/h on the motorway. Vehicles with trailers: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights are required outside built-up areas even in daytime.
- Tolls: the A10 and A12 are toll roads, charged by axles and height above the front axle (limit 1.30 m) – most two-axle motorhomes are in class B, three-axle vehicles in class 3. Pay at the station in cash, by card or electronically via Telepass or an EU toll box. In 2026 there are numerous roadworks with lane switches on the A10 and A12; the current plan is available from the motorway operators and in regional media.
- ZTL: the old towns of Genoa, La Spezia, Sanremo and many coastal towns are camera-monitored zones with restricted traffic; fines arrive by post, even months later. Watch for the “Zona Traffico Limitato” sign before entering a town.
- If a load projects beyond the rear – such as bicycles on a rear carrier – the red-and-white reflective warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is mandatory.
- Alcohol: 0.5 per mille, and 0.0 for drivers who have held a licence for under three years and for vehicles over 3.5 t. Since the reform of the road traffic code at the end of 2024, using a mobile phone at the wheel is punished much more severely, up to licence withdrawal.
- Winter equipment (winter tyres or chains on board) is required from 15 November to 15 April on many motorway sections and roads into the hinterland; snow is rare on the coast itself, but possible on the Passo del Bracco or in the Nervia valley.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Bicycles with lock and warning panel for the rear carrier – the Riviera dei Fiori cycle path and the Maremonti tunnel route near Levanto are day highlights on which the motorhome stays parked.
- Italian dish adapter for GPL filling stations and two full gas cylinders on entry.
- Ankle-high hiking boots and poles for the Sentiero Azzurro and the trails in the Parco di Portofino – the paths are stony, steep and slippery after rain.
- Mosquito nets for windows and roof vent, plus insect repellent: the tiger mosquito is active along the whole coast until October.
- Smartphone with data allowance, Cinque Terre Card app and booking confirmations – the Via dell’Amore and pitch apps with barrier and payment all work digitally.
- Compact levelling ramps: pitches on Liguria’s slopes are rarely level, and wedges belong only on campsites and official pitches.

_As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Stop-by-stop itinerary

1. **Ventimiglia** (Italy)
2. **Dolceacqua** (Italy)
3. **Sanremo** (Italy)
4. **Albenga** (Italy)
5. **Finale Ligure** (Italy)
6. **Varigotti** (Italy)
7. **Genoa** (Italy)
8. **Camogli** (Italy)
9. **Portofino** (Italy)
10. **Sestri Levante** (Italy)
11. **Levanto** (Italy)
12. **La Spezia** (Italy)
13. **Portovenere** (Italy)
14. **Lerici** (Italy)

## FAQs

**How long is Flower Riviera, Saracen villages and rocky harbours – by motorhome along Liguria’s coast to the Cinque Terre?**
7-day road trip of about 283 km (176 mi) with 14 stops, from Ventimiglia to Lerici. About 3 h 54 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Flower Riviera, Saracen villages and rocky harbours – by motorhome along Liguria’s coast to the Cinque Terre?**
We suggest 7 days: about 3 h 54 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Flower Riviera, Saracen villages and rocky harbours – by motorhome along Liguria’s coast to the Cinque Terre start and end?**
It starts in Ventimiglia and ends in Lerici.

**Which countries does Flower Riviera, Saracen villages and rocky harbours – by motorhome along Liguria’s coast to the Cinque Terre pass through?**
Italy.
