# Hairpins, limestone spires and alpenglow: driving the Great Dolomite Road and the Dolomite passes by motorhome

> 7-day round trip of about 248 km (154 mi) with 14 stops, starting and ending in Bolzano. About 3 h 25 min of driving in total.

Source: https://camping-spirit.com/guides/rf-021-great-dolomite-road-italy/

**At a glance:** 7-day round trip of about 248 km (154 mi) with 14 stops, starting and ending in Bolzano. About 3 h 25 min of driving in total. From Bolzano (Bozen) over Passo di Costalunga (Karerpass), the Sellaronda and Passo Falzarego to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and back through the Val Pusteria (Pustertal): a loop over seven passes on which your brakes deserve as much attention as the evening light on the Catinaccio (Rosengarten).

| | |
|---|---|
| Distance | 248 km (154 mi) |
| Driving | 3 h 25 min |
| Suggested days | 7 |
| Stops | 14 |
| Route | Bolzano → Bolzano |
| Countries | Italy |
| Updated | April 27, 2026 |

*From Bolzano (Bozen) over Passo di Costalunga (Karerpass), the Sellaronda and Passo Falzarego to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and back through the Val Pusteria (Pustertal): a loop over seven passes on which your brakes deserve as much attention as the evening light on the Catinaccio (Rosengarten).*

## The spirit of the route

The Dolomites are not something you simply drive; you have to work for them. Beyond Bolzano the road winds up through the red porphyry gorge of the Val d’Ega (Eggental), then the forest opens and suddenly Latemar and the Catinaccio (Rosengarten) stand above the meadows like stage scenery. On the passes the air smells of warm brakes, mountain pine and hay, marmots whistle beside the car park, and in the evening the limestone walls glow first orange, then violet – the locals call it Enrosadira. From your open sliding door you see the Sella towers, the Marmolada glacier and the north faces of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. In between lie Ladin villages, First World War trails and lakes in colours that draw thousands in July. This loop demands patience: early starts ahead of the coaches, short stages, low gears downhill – and a willingness to spend the night on a campsite rather than in a pass car park.

## Stage-by-stage plan

### Stage 1: Bolzano (Bozen) to Canazei (Val di Fassa) (approx. 60 km)

- **The drive:** From Cardano (Kardaun) near Bolzano, take the SS241 through the narrow Val d’Ega (Eggental) gorge with its short tunnels and overhanging rock, then via Ponte Nova (Birchabruck) and Nova Levante (Welschnofen) up to Lago di Carezza (Karersee) and over Passo di Costalunga (Karerpass, just over 1,750 m) into the Trentino valley of Val di Fassa (Fassatal). The road is mostly well built, with a few wide hairpins near the top; descend to Vigo di Fassa and continue up the valley to Canazei. About 1.5 hours of pure driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Lago di Carezza (Karersee): the circular path around the small mountain lake with Latemar reflected in the water, quietest before 8 am.
  - Views of the west faces of the Catinaccio (Rosengarten) from Passo di Costalunga and from the hotel hamlet of Carezza – the classic spot for alpenglow in the evening.
  - Vigo di Fassa cable car up to Ciampedie, the starting point for easy walks beneath the Catinaccio.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Marmolada on the edge of Canazei, within walking distance of the centre and the buses: electric hook-ups, sanitary facilities, water and waste disposal. Further down the valley, Camping Vidor in Pozza di Fassa is large and well equipped. Book in August and during the school holidays.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** At Lago di Carezza, car park P1 right by the lake is open to motorhomes but charges a fee; motorhomes are banned on P2 (Schönblickweg), and on the more distant P3 (Paolina) campers pay a charge at night. The car parks cannot be reserved. Overnighting in pass and trailhead car parks is prohibited by numerous municipal ordinances in the Val d’Ega and Val di Fassa – signs showing a crossed-out motorhome mean it. Some villages in Val di Fassa have designated motorhome car parks; check the current situation on CamperOnline or park4night.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Fill up with fuel and water in Bolzano before you set off: the motorhome stopover on Pfarrhofstraße has a disposal station. The Val d’Ega gorge is narrow and unpleasant when you meet buses – drive outside rush hour and switch your lights on in the tunnels (compulsory outside built-up areas in Italy anyway).

### Stage 2: Canazei to Canazei (Sellaronda) (approx. 55 km)

- **The drive:** The loop around the Sella massif, clockwise: Canazei – Passo Sella (Sellajoch, about 2,240 m) – Plan de Gralba – Passo Gardena (Grödner Joch, about 2,120 m) – Corvara – Passo Campolongo (about 1,875 m) – Arabba – Passo Pordoi (Pordoijoch, about 2,240 m) – Canazei. Four passes and dozens of hairpins; on the north sides the road is partly narrow, with crash barriers right at the edge of the carriageway. Pure driving time is a good 2 hours; with cable cars and breaks it takes a full day.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Passo Sella (Sellajoch): the vertical Sella towers directly above the car park, plus views of Sassolungo (Langkofel) and Sasso Piatto (Plattkofel).
  - Passo Gardena (Grödner Joch) with the Cir peaks and the grassy ridge towards Colfosco.
  - Sass Pordoi: cable car from Passo Pordoi to just under 3,000 m, with a view of the Marmolada glacier.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** A second night on the same site in Canazei – the Sellaronda is best driven as a day loop without moving camp. If you would rather move on: in Alta Badia there are campsites in the Val Badia (Gadertal), but Arabba has no campsite.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Wild camping on the Sellaronda is effectively ruled out: Selva di Val Gardena (Wolkenstein in Gröden) banned overnighting in vehicles across the whole municipality in 2025; the administrative court overturned this blanket ban in April 2026 on procedural grounds, but camping behaviour remains prohibited, and South Tyrolean municipalities are working on new ordinances based on a model template. The motorhome area in Arabba was largely closed by municipal ordinance in 2026, with a strict ban on emptying waste. On the pass car parks, daytime parking is allowed but not overnight – check the current situation locally.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Start before 8 am: from late morning you share the hairpins with scheduled and tour buses, motorcycle groups and cyclists. Descend in second or third gear and let buses go first on the hairpins – a 12-metre bus needs both lanes there. On Passo Gardena the access restriction planned for September 2026 was cancelled; instead a digital trial phase without closures ran from 22 September to 5 October 2026, in which drivers could register voluntarily. Whether and when a binding restriction will come is open – check the current situation before you travel.

### Stage 3: Canazei to Cortina d’Ampezzo (approx. 60 km)

- **The drive:** Over Passo Pordoi to Arabba, then along the Great Dolomite Road (SR48) through the Livinallongo (Buchenstein) valley with a view of Col di Lana, up to Passo Falzarego (about 2,100 m) near Andraz and down to Cortina in long, well-engineered curves. About 1.5 hours of driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Cable car from Passo Falzarego up to Lagazuoi, with the tunnels and positions from the First World War.
  - Open-air museum at the Cinque Torri, reached by chairlift from Bai de Dones above the road.
  - The ruined castle of Castello di Andraz on the way to the pass.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Cortina has several campsites: International Camping Olympia at Fiames, north of the town in the woods by the Boite, and Camping Cortina, Camping Dolomiti and Camping Rocchetta to the south near Campo di Sotto. Electricity, sanitary facilities, water and waste disposal; prices are high by Dolomite standards. Cortina most recently had no official motorhome stopover – the former area near Fiames has been closed for years; check the current situation beforehand.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** Cortina and the neighbouring municipalities do not tolerate overnighting in car parks; checks are also made at Passo Falzarego and Passo Giau. Plan on fixed sites. During the day the large pass car parks can be used by motorhomes, often for a fee.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The centre of Cortina is traffic-calmed, and the multi-storey car parks have height limits. Leave the motorhome at the campsite and use the local bus, and in summer also the buses to the passes. It is usually cheaper to fill up and shop in the valleys than in the town itself.

### Stage 4: Cortina d’Ampezzo to Lago di Misurina and the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (approx. 30 km)

- **The drive:** Over Passo Tre Croci (about 1,800 m) on moderate gradients to Lago di Misurina, then from Lago d’Antorno up the toll road (gradients up to 13%) to the car park at Rifugio Auronzo at a good 2,300 m. Short, but demanding on clutch and brakes.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Lago di Misurina with the Cadini di Misurina behind it, most beautiful in morning light.
  - The Tre Cime circuit from Rifugio Auronzo via Rifugio Lavaredo and Forcella Lavaredo (Paternsattel) to Rifugio Locatelli (Dreizinnenhütte), with views of the north faces (about 10 km, 3–4 hours).
  - Little Lago d’Antorno at the start of the toll road, a quiet morning stroll.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Area sosta camper Misurina (municipality of Auronzo), about 300 m from the lake: roughly 20 pitches on gravel and asphalt, a camper service for filling and emptying, no electric hook-ups, stay limited to 48 hours, chargeable from May to October. The pitches are uneven – have levelling wedges ready.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** For the toll road to Rifugio Auronzo, online reservation with licence plate and time slot is compulsory in 2026; the ticket is valid for 12 hours from the booked start, and in 2026 motorhomes paid €60, cars €40. Overnighting in the vehicle up there is only conceivable within these time slots, and camping behaviour (awning, chairs) is prohibited – the rules have changed several times, so clarify beforehand with the parking service of the municipality of Auronzo. The more relaxed solution: sleep in Misurina and drive up with the first slot, or take the bus (line 444 from Dobbiaco (Toblach), also with online reservation in 2026).
- **Insider tip for campers:** Book your time slot as soon as your travel date is fixed – in July and August the early slots go quickly. The road is normally open from the end of May to the end of October; in snow or dangerous conditions it is closed. Take water for the circuit: the huts sell drinks, but fountains are rare.

### Stage 5: Lago di Misurina to Dobbiaco (Toblach) via Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee) (approx. 50 km)

- **The drive:** From Misurina downhill to Carbonin (Schluderbach) and through the Val di Landro (Höhlensteintal) past Lago di Landro (Dürrensee) to Dobbiaco (Toblach) in the Val Pusteria (Pustertal); then on via Villabassa (Niederdorf) into the Val di Braies (Pragser Tal) as far as the lake and back. Wide, well-built roads, with a few bends in the Val di Landro. A good hour of driving time without stops.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Lago di Landro (Dürrensee) with Monte Cristallo – photo stop at the lay-bys on the north shore.
  - View of the Tre Cime in the Val di Landro near Landro (Höhlenstein).
  - Circuit of Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee) (about 1 hour), on root-strewn paths along the south shore.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Olympia in Dobbiaco (Toblach), open all year, with electricity, water and waste disposal and good sanitary facilities, or Camping Toblacher See (Lago di Dobbiaco) at the north end of the Val di Landro, quieter and closer to the water. There is no campsite at Lago di Braies itself.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** In the Val di Braies and the Fanes-Sennes-Braies (Fanes-Sennes-Prags) nature park, overnighting in vehicles outside designated sites is not allowed, and in summer 2026 South Tyrol carried out coordinated checks with fines for wild campers. No free camping at the lake.
- **Insider tip for campers:** From 1 July to 15 September 2026, the Val di Braies could only be entered between 9 am and 4 pm with an online reservation (car park or through-traffic); buses 442 (from Dobbiaco/Villabassa) and 439 (from Monguelfo (Welsberg)) also needed a reservation during this period. Outside these times and this season, access is free as long as there are parking spaces. Check when booking whether and in which car park motorhomes are allowed – if in doubt, leave the motorhome in Dobbiaco and take the bus. Look up the rules for 2027 in good time.

### Stage 6: Dobbiaco (Toblach) to Val di Funes (Villnößtal) (approx. 95 km)

- **The drive:** Through the Val Pusteria (Pustertal) on the SS49 via Monguelfo (Welsberg) and Brunico (Bruneck), at Rio di Pusteria (Mühlbach) into the Val d’Isarco (Eisacktal) and via Bressanone (Brixen) and Chiusa (Klausen), then into the narrow Val di Funes as far as Santa Maddalena (St. Magdalena). Wide valley road, narrower and twistier in the Val di Funes itself. Just under 2 hours of driving time.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - The church of St. Johann in Ranui in front of the Odle (Geislerspitzen) – the well-known postcard view, with a photo spot at the car park by the road; the meadow itself is private.
  - Adolf-Munkel-Weg beneath the north faces of the Odle (Geisler), starting from the Zanser Alm car park.
  - Novacella (Neustift) Abbey near Bressanone (Brixen), an Augustinian canons’ monastery with a winery.
- **Official campsite or RV park:** In Santa Maddalena, “Zum Gletscher Hons” is a small motorhome stopover on a farm that can be booked online, with a view of the Odle (Geisler) and new sanitary facilities; ask the operator beforehand about facilities, length limit and season. For an alternative with more space, the campsites near Bressanone (Brixen) are suitable.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** The Val di Funes lies beside the Puez-Odle (Puez-Geisler) nature park; overnighting is not permitted at the Zanser Alm car park or at the roadsides. For an intermediate stop in Brunico (Bruneck) there are car parks and stopovers for motorhomes; check the current situation in the stopover apps.
- **Insider tip for campers:** Do not take the shortcut over Passo delle Erbe (Würzjoch) or Eores (Afers): the roads are partly narrow and steep and not recommended for larger motorhomes; between Eores (Afers) and Passo delle Erbe (Würzjoch) there is a ban on buses, and the Val di Funes side is closed in winter. Access to the Val di Funes is via the valley road from the Brenner road at Chiusa (Klausen). In the Val Pusteria, fuel is cheaper in Brunico (Bruneck) than in the side valleys.

### Stage 7: Val di Funes (Villnößtal) to Bolzano (Bozen) (optionally via the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm)) (approx. 60 km)

- **The drive:** Back to Chiusa (Klausen), at Ponte Gardena (Waidbruck) up to Castelrotto (Kastelruth) and Siusi allo Sciliar (Seis am Schlern), then via Fiè allo Sciliar (Völs am Schlern) downhill into the Val d’Isarco (Eisacktal) and on to Bolzano (Bozen). The roads around the Sciliar (Schlern) are well built, but twisty and narrow in the villages. About 1.5 hours.
- **Highlights & must-sees:**
  - Sabiona (Säben) Monastery high above Chiusa (Klausen), a half-hour walk from the old town.
  - Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm): by cable car from Siusi (Seis) up to Europe’s largest high-altitude meadow, with Sassolungo (Langkofel) and the Sciliar (Schlern).
  - South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology with the “Iceman” (Ötzi) in Bolzano (Bozen).
- **Official campsite or RV park:** Camping Seiser Alm near Fiè allo Sciliar (Völs am Schlern), the only campsite in the Seiser Alm holiday region, well equipped with electricity, water and waste disposal and a large sanitary building. In Bolzano (Bozen), Camping Moosbauer in the west of the city, with electricity and waste disposal, well connected to the bus and cycle path.
- **Free camping or nature tip (where legal):** On the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), overnighting in vehicles and camping are prohibited, and parking is banned between 11 pm and 5 am. In Bolzano (Bozen), the motorhome car parks on Pfarrhofstraße (with electricity and water/waste disposal), on Sarntaler Straße and, seasonally, on Einsteinstraße offer a legal alternative for city visits – the rule there is “parking only, no camping”.
- **Insider tip for campers:** The road from Siusi (Seis) to Compaccio (Compatsch) is closed to private traffic uphill from 9 am to 5 pm in season, and since 29 June 2026 the car parks P1 Spitzbühl and P2 Compatsch can only be used with an online reservation (no earlier than 6 days in advance). With a motorhome, the cable car from Siusi (Seis) is the better choice; there is a large car park at the valley station. In Bolzano (Bozen), avoid the ZTL in the old town – it is camera-monitored.

## Camping practice & local rules

### Wild camping & overnight parking

- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) distinguishes between “sosta” (parking) and “campeggio” (camping): a motorhome may park anywhere parking is allowed, including overnight. What is prohibited is camping behaviour – chairs, tables, awning, extended stabilisers or wedges, grey water on the ground.
- In South Tyrol and the Dolomites, municipal ordinances restrict this right severely: Selva di Val Gardena (Wolkenstein)’s blanket overnight ban was overturned by the court in April 2026, but the municipalities are working on new ordinances, many pass and trailhead car parks carry no-camper signs, and in summer 2026 coordinated checks with fines took place. Expect towing and fines in the three-figure euro range.
- In nature parks (Puez-Odle (Puez-Geisler), Fanes-Sennes-Braies (Fanes-Sennes-Prags), Tre Cime, Sciliar-Catinaccio (Schlern-Rosengarten)) tent camping and camping in general are prohibited; on the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) there is also a night-time parking ban.
- You can legally overnight on campsites, in municipal “aree di sosta camper” and at farm stopovers. Useful apps: park4night, CamperOnline (an Italian stopover directory with up-to-date user reports), Campercontact.

### Waste disposal & supplies

- Water filling and waste disposal is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico” in Italy; many stations work with coins or tokens (gettoni), some only for guests of the stopover.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the station – illegal dumping into drains contributed to the largely closed motorhome area in Arabba in 2026, for example.
- Tap water in South Tyrol and Trentino is mostly drinkable; look out for signs: “acqua potabile” is drinking water, “acqua non potabile” is not.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy, and Italian cylinders have different connections. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at LPG (GPL) filling stations with the Italian (“Dish”) adapter; at many stations only the staff do the filling, and foreign exchange cylinders are not refilled. Arrive with two full cylinders.

### Vehicle size & traffic rules

- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on motorways; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on motorways. Car-and-caravan combinations: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on motorways. Dipped headlights are compulsory outside built-up areas during the day.
- Brenner motorway A22: toll by axles and height above the front axle (limit 1.30 m) – most two-axle motorhomes travel in class B, three-axle vehicles in class 3. Payment in cash, by card or electronically via Telepass or an EU toll box. If you arrive via Austria, you need a vignette up to 3.5 t plus the Brenner section toll, and over 3.5 t a GO-Box (which also settles the section toll).
- If a load projects beyond the rear of the vehicle – such as bicycles on a rear carrier – the red-and-white reflective warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory; fines are also imposed on tourists.
- Winter equipment (winter tyres or snow chains on board) is required from 15 November to 15 April on the A22 and many pass and state roads; even in summer, snow can fall above 2,000 m.
- City centres such as Bolzano (Bozen) and Bressanone (Brixen) have camera-monitored ZTL zones, and the centre of Cortina is traffic-calmed; fines arrive by post. On Passo Gardena (Grödner Joch), South Tyrol tested digitally in autumn 2026, without closures, how a future access restriction might work; reservation requirements apply on the toll road to the Tre Cime and at Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee) – check the situation before every season.

## CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist

- Levelling ramps, step 2–3 – pitches such as those in Misurina are uneven, and in Italy wedges belong only on pitches, not in car parks.
- Red-and-white warning panel to Italian standard for the rear carrier, if bikes or boxes project beyond the vehicle.
- Italian gas adapter for LPG (GPL) filling stations and two full cylinders on arrival.
- Warm layers, a rain jacket and a hat: on the passes and at the Tre Cime, temperatures are often below 10 °C even in summer, and thunderstorms come up quickly in the afternoon.
- A smartphone with data and printed booking confirmations for the Tre Cime toll road, the Val di Braies and the Alpe di Siusi car parks – licence plates and time slots are checked.
- Have brake fluid and pads checked before the trip, plus an infrared thermometer for the wheel rims after long descents.

_As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go._

## Stop-by-stop itinerary

1. **Bolzano** (Italy)
2. **Lago di Carezza** (Nova Levante, Italy): A small green lake below the Latemar spires, one of the most photographed in the Dolomites. A short path circles it.
3. **Canazei** (Italy)
4. **Passo Sella** (Selva di Val Gardena, Italy): A 2,240-metre pass right under the walls of the Sassolungo and the Sella group, on the road between Val Gardena and Val di Fassa. The pass car parks fill early in summer; the road is usually closed in heavy snow.
5. **Passo Gardena** (Selva di Val Gardena, Italy): The 2,121-metre pass between Val Gardena and Val Badia, with the pale towers of the Cir group on one side and the Sella massif on the other. There are lay-bys on both sides of the summit.
6. **Corvara in Badia** (Italy)
7. **Arabba** (Italy)
8. **Cortina d'Ampezzo** (Italy)
9. **Tre Cime di Lavaredo** (Auronzo di Cadore, Italy): Three limestone towers, the symbol of the Dolomites. A toll road climbs to the Auronzo hut, then an easy trail loops around them.
10. **Lago di Braies** (Braies, Italy): An emerald lake below sheer cliffs, with rowing boats and a flat path around the shore. Road access is restricted in high summer.
11. **Dobbiaco** (Italy)
12. **Funes** (Italy)
13. **Alpe di Siusi** (Castelrotto, Italy): Often called Europe’s largest high-altitude alpine meadow, with easy walks towards Sassolungo and the Sciliar. The road up from Siusi is closed to most private cars during the day, so take the cable car from Siusi or drive up early.
14. **Bolzano** (Italy)

## FAQs

**How long is Hairpins, limestone spires and alpenglow: driving the Great Dolomite Road and the Dolomite passes by motorhome?**
7-day round trip of about 248 km (154 mi) with 14 stops, starting and ending in Bolzano. About 3 h 25 min of driving in total.

**How many days do you need for Hairpins, limestone spires and alpenglow: driving the Great Dolomite Road and the Dolomite passes by motorhome?**
We suggest 7 days: about 3 h 25 min of driving, which leaves time for the stops.

**Where does Hairpins, limestone spires and alpenglow: driving the Great Dolomite Road and the Dolomite passes by motorhome start and end?**
It is a round trip that starts and ends in Bolzano.

**Which countries does Hairpins, limestone spires and alpenglow: driving the Great Dolomite Road and the Dolomite passes by motorhome pass through?**
Italy.